• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.163-175
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• 2007

This study examines 74 pieces of textiles of Daegaya found in the Jeesan-dong Tomb and Saeng-cho Tomb, and analyzes their characteristics and weaving techniques. Dagaya is known to have produced ramie and hemp from bast fibers. The hemp textiles were all woven in plain weave, and the ramie textiles were woven either in plain weave or plain braid. The ramie textiles were slightly more dense compared to the hemp textiles, however, both had average densities between 0.92 to 0.93, showing that they are balanced plain weave textiles. It was also found that S twist threads were used in the production of the hemp and ramie textiles. The dyed textiles on iron remains were found to be the oldest textiles to use dying techniques for patterns. Silk textiles were woven in plain weave, twill weave, and leno weave. All of the silk were made with non-twisted thread. The densities were between 30 to 58.3 and the the density rates were 1.0 to 2.5 for plain weave silk, this showed that varieties of plain weaver created by different densities of warp and well. The average density of cho was $53.4{\times}22.5/cm^2$ the density rate was about 2.40, therefore warp was woven more dense compared to the weft. There were degummed and raw silk used in silk textiles, but most of them were found to be degummed thread.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.9-16
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• 2008

Six of the Imdang tombs containing remains with imprints of ancient fabrics and textiles were investigated. Within the tombs, a total of 120 pieces of imprinted fabrics and textiles were investigated, all of which belongs to $5{\sim}6C$ Shilla period. All of the hemp textiles examined exhibited similar characteristics found in ancient hemp textiles: they were woven by plain weave technique with s-twist threads. The examined silk could be categorized into plain woven silk, cho, and double woven brocade, all of them made with non-twisted threads and degummed silk. The density of the plain woven silk ranged from 39 threads to 144 threads. Cho was also found, which showed similar characteristics to those of Gaya and Bakjae tombs. One piece of 2/1 twill weave on plain ground and 12 pieces of double woven brocade were found and their average density was $97.4{\times}33.4/cm$ with denser warp than weft. The various thickness of the threads were observed in the examined plain braid. The silk with twining technique showed thicker warp than weft. This is similar to the techniques of fabrics found in the King Muryeoung's Tomb of the Bakjae period. Fabrics with the purple-like color were observed in the some of the double woven brocades and also on the plain woven silk imprinted on the remains. The purple-like color was revealed to be purple with a tint of violet. The two tombs from which the imprinted fabrics with purple-like color were found belonged to top-class social level of the Shilla period, which informs that the purple color was used exclusively for the people of higher social status. The floss silk was found between the double woven brocade and plain woven silk of the belt, which is an important evidence that the floss silk was used for stuffing in the early 6th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.775-783
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• 2010

This study examines the dyeability, light fastness, washing fastness, and the antibacterial activity of chitosan and nano silver composite non-woven fabrics dyed with an extracted solution from Chrysanthemum Indicum Linn. The results show that an increase in the chitosan and nano silver percentage resulted in an increase in the $a^*$ values and $b^*$ values; however, the $L^*$ values decreased in the undyed condition. ${\Delta}E$ values of chitosan and nano silver composite non-woven fabrics were higher than cotton 100% non-woven fabrics in the dyed condition with an extracted solution from Chrysanthemum Indicum Linn, and mordant treatments influenced the chrominance change. In the dyed condition with an extracted solution from Chrysanthemum Indicum Linn, an increase in the percentage of chitosan and nano silver resulted in an increase of the K/S values. The dyeability of chitosan and nano silver composite non-woven fabrics increased by mordant treatments. The light fastness and washing fastness of the mordanted non-woven fabrics were better than the non-mordanted. For the antibacterial activity, the bacterial reduction rate of chitosan and nano silver composite non-woven fabrics was 99.9% to Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.3
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• pp.347-354
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• 2014

The color appearance of a yarn-dyed woven fabric depends on the color of the yarn as well as on the weave structure. Predicting the final color appearance or formulating the recipe is a difficult task, considering the interference of colored yarns and structure variations. In a modern fabric design process, the intended color appearance is attained through a digital color methodology based on numerous color data and color mixing recipes (i.e., color prediction models, accumulated in CAD systems). For successful color reproduction, accurate color prediction models should be devised and equipped for the systems. In this study, the final colors of yarn-dyed woven fabrics were predicted using six geometric-color mixing models (i.e., simple K/S model, log K/S model, D-G model, S-N model, modified S-N model, and W-O model). The color differences between the measured and the predicted colors were calculated to evaluate the accuracy of various color models used for different weave structures. The log K/S model, D-G model, and W-O model were found to be more accurate in color prediction of the woven fabrics used. Among these three models, the W-O model was found to be the best one as it gave the least color difference between the measured and the predicted colors.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.319-325
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• 2014

This article describes a method for producing chitosan non-woven fabrics by just hot pressing without the use of a binder. A study has been made of the wet spinning of chitosan fiber. The fibers were rinsed thoroughly in running water and chopped wet into staples of with a length of approximately 5-10 mm. The chopped chitosan staples were dispersed uniformly in water and fabricated using a non-woven making machine. This study examined the formation and the characteristics of chitosan non-woven fabrics manufactured by hot pressing without the use of a binder. The effects of the non-woven fabrication conditions on the thermal, morphological, structural, and physical properties of chitosan non-woven fabric with and without water as a plasticizer were studied. The temperature of the exothermic peak, decomposition of chitosan fibers increased with increasing heating rate. Water in the chitosan fiber effectively plasticized the chitosan fiber. The thermal bonded structure of the wet chitosan fiber with water as a plasticizer was clearly found in many parts of the non-woven fabric at a fabrication temperature of $200^{\circ}C$. The intensity and profile of the (100) plane($2{\theta}=10.2^{\circ}$) and (040) plane($2{\theta}=20.9^{\circ}$) in the chitosan non-woven fabric decreases and became smooth in the non-woven fabric formation by melting.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.89-98
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• 2009

Computer development and new printing technology allow us to express a new type of digital textile designs those were not possible in the past. In this study, watercolor overlaying effect of various colors was tried using airbrush tool in Photoshop program. Photoshop program is a powerful graphic tool and can be used in textile design area to generate various types of designs. Woven texture was also applied to the design to give yarn dyed effects or rich appearance. Photoshop program was also used to develop woven texture without the help of the professional textile CAD. Photoshop channels enables the designers to apply various textures to the image. Plain weave and houndstooth were applied in this study. Colorways of the developed designs having watercolor effect and woven texture by applying Photoshop color adjustment function. Quick and simultaneous changes of colors were possible using this method. The developed textile designs were printed by transfer DTP. Successful textile design prints were expressed and showed watercolor overlaying effect and woven texture. The printed textiles show a little brighter color, and therefore, sample printing is recommendable in case of color sensitive production.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.4
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• pp.648-660
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• 2021

This study analyzes how sewing conditions for elastic bands on woven fabrics affect elongation. The directions of the elastic bands were vertical, horizontal, vertical and horizontal crossing, and horizontal and vertical crossing. Intervals between the elastic bands were 3.0 cm and 6.0 cm. The woven fabric was tailored for the elastic band sewing using warp, weft, and bias. Consequently, it was possible to visually confirm elongation differences according to the sewing condition of the elastic bands. A detailed examination demonstrated that the horizontal or vertical placement of elastic bands tailored in a crosswise direction produces high vertical elongation and low horizontal contraction. However, elastic bands sewed in crossing directions, regardless of warp and weft directions, resulted in both high vertical elongation and high horizontal contraction. In all cases, the more elastic bands were used, the higher the horizontal elongation. In conclusion, appropriate placements of elastic bands on woven fabric increases motion convenience.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.1 s.29
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• pp.79-87
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• 1989

In the part 1 and 2, relations were found between fundmental mechanical properties and primary hand values, performance of Korean women's summer and fall & winter fabrics. In this paper, in order to investigate the hand values and mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface and thickness & weight of the core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes were measured by KES-F system. The experimental results are statistically analyzed in the aspects of the mechanical properties, their effects on the hand values, formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior. The correlation in the hand values are analyzed, too. Furthermore, there mechanical properties are discussed in comparison with those values for kimono fabrics. The main results are summarized as follows: 1. The core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes have box-shaped silhouette based on higher bending rigidity and shear elasticity. 2. The core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes are inferior to silk fabrics, superior to polyester fabrics in formation. 3. A drapability and wrinkle recovery of core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes formation for weared clothes are inferior to polyester fabrics, superior to silk fabrics. 4. A primary factor of mechanical properties contribute to the hand values of core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes are same as the Korean women's winter fabrics, except for flexibility with soft feeling. 5. As for the hand values of core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes, stiffness, anti-drape stiffness are superior to those of polyester fabrics. And also, flexibility with soft feeling, scrooping feeling of core-spun yarn woven fabrics have greater values as compared with silk fabrics for Korean folk clothes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.243-248
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• 2007

This study is about the fabric attached to the relics excavated from the Shimchun-ri tomb of the 4th century and the Moonsan-ri tombs of the 5th century. We studied 5 pieces of fabric from the Shimchun-ri tomb: one piece was silk and the other four pieces were hemp. We were able to observe 8 pieces from the four tombs in Moonsan-ri, All of them except one ramie were silk. The two kinds of bast fiber found in the tombs of Shimchun-ri and Moonsan-ri were hemp and ramie, and they were found to be plain woven with S-twist thread which thickness is uneven. The density was more fine compared to the hemps found in the Kaya or Shinra tombs of the similar era. All of the silk textiles found in the Shimchun-ri and Moonsan-ri tombs used non-twisted thread, and were plain woven. Also, we found degummed and raw silk from the tombs. The average density of the silk textiles from these tombs are similar to other areas of the same time, and studies show that they used non-twisted thread in plain woven silk found in other tombs. Therefore, we can conclude that they usually used non-twisted thread when producing silk textiles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.7
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• pp.1193-1202
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• 2001

The goal of this research is to investigate the effect of fusible interlinings on the mechanical characteristics and appearance related values for the Lyocell fabrics. In this study, to establish optimum fusing conditions, peel strength of the fused fabrics depending on the fusing temperature, pressure and time was measured. Appearance related properties and mechanical characteristics of the fused fabrics ere determined. The reulst are as follows: In the fusing condition of $120^{\circ}C,\;3kgf/textrm{cm}^2$, 15sec, peel strength was excellent. Peel strength was excellent in the case of tencel/cotton fabric, with increasing cover factor of woven interlining, with twill and nonwoven interlining. Flex stiffness was increased in the case of tencel/cotton fabric, with increasing weight of woven interlining, with twill and nonwoven interlining. Drapability was excellent in the case of 100% tencel fabric, with decreasing weight of woven interlining, with plain and woven interlining. Crease recovery was excellent in the case of 100% tencel fabric, with increasing weight of woven interlining, with twill and woven interlining. Shear and bend properties were increased in the case of tencel/cotton fabric, with increasing weight of woven interlining, with plain and nonwoven interlining.