• 복식
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• 제57권8호
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• pp.37-47
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics of the tomb of King Muryeong at the Baekje(百濟) Period. First, there were silk fabrics such as compound woven silk(錦), twill damask(綾), complex gause(羅) and plain weaved silk(平絹). All of compound woven silk(錦) are the warp-faced compound tabby(經錦) of plain weave and the density is various from high to low one. The twill damask(綾) was a variation of twill damask weaved with a six strand warp thread. The complex gause(羅) made patterns as a set of 2 strand, 4 strand, 6 strand and 8 strand warp threads are weaved alternately with the weft. There were three kinds of plain weaved silk(平絹). The first was weaved densely without space between strands. The second was weaved with a small space between strands. And the third was weaved with a two strand warp thread, having a space between the threads. On the other hand, several pieces of well preserved ramie cloth were excavated. Of the, the densest one has the density of 125 strand/inch for the warp and the weft. In addition, strings made of flax thread were found. This suggests that flax fabrics may be found additionally if the hardened lumps of fabrics are resolved and analyzed. Other materials discovered include knits, knotted strings, embroideries, threads and floss. Pieces considered knits and knotted strings occupy a large part of fabrics excavated from King Muryeong's Tomb, and in particular knotted strings show various knotting methods. In addition, embroideries such as chain stitch and button hole stitch are clearly observed. What is more, there are silk threads and hemp threads, which are presumed to have been used for dangling ornaments such as Yeongrak(瓔珞) and beads or for sewing. Besides, floss was found between fabrics.

• 한국섬유공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국섬유공학회 1993년도 ACT 93
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• pp.413-417
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• 1993

A study has been conducted on the mechanical properties of two sort of woven silk fabrics, i.e. habutae and dechine, with KES-류 handle measurement system. The mechanical properties are compared with their structural parameters, such as fabric densities, thickness

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.1138-1150
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• 1996

This study was carried out to investigate the effects of dyeing on the mechanical properties, primary hand, total hand value (THV), and total appearance value (TAV) of woven fabrics. Cotton, PET, nylon, cotton/PET, and cotton/nylon woven fabrics were used as test specimens. Each of fabric was dyed under the same conditions as the fabrics for sportswear which consumers have selected as best. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB system and primary hand and THV were calculated by equation KN -201-MDY and KN-301-WINTER respectively. TAV was calculated by KN (eq. 10). The results were as follows: 1. In mechanical properties. tensile energy increased when cotton and two cotton mixture fabrics were dyed and decreased when polyester and nylon fabrics were dyed. Bending rigidity and shear rigidity decreased after all fabrics were dyed except nylon and cotton/ nylon mixture fabrics showing higher rigidities. Cotton fabrics showed higher surface roughness while other fabrics did lower values after dyeing. 2. In evaluation of primary hand and total hand , four primary hands of cotton fabrics so decreased after dyeing that THV were lowered. Numeri, Fukurami, and Sofutosa in primary hand of polyester, cotton/polyester, and cotton/nylon fabrics and Koshi and Numeri of nylon fabrics increased after dyeing and therefore THV of four fabrics were improved. 3. Cotton and polyester fabrics showed higher TAV due to their lower bending and shear rigidity, while nylon and cotton/nylon fabrics did lower values due to their higher shear rigidity. 4. It was proposed that the method of dyeing or treatment for minimizing the decrease of THV of cotton fabrics and TAV of nylon fabrics should be developed.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.134-142
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• 2003

Performances of Taekwondo fabrics were evaluated in respect of fiber component. yarn count, weave structure and wearing comfort. As a beginning step, we investigated the present situation of Taekwondo wears by questionnaire from pro and amateur Taekwondo players. Samples employed in this study were cotton/nylon blend fabric that was newly woven for this study as well as fabrics of current Taekwondo wears for sale in the market. Their fundamental properties measured were such as air permeability, water vapor transport. wickability, absorption rate, Qmax values, thermal conductivity, durability, hand value, and etc. In addition, subjective wearing sensations were evaluated using Taekwondo wears made of those fabrics. From the results of the objective measurement and the subjective wearing test, we estimated the total fitness of fabrics as a Taekwondo wear. From the questionnaire we could see that pro players and amateurs wanted highly absorbing, quick drying, and soft-tough and complained abrasive surfaces and static elasticity of current fabrics. In view of the results so far achieved, nylon blended fabrics newly woven in this study, showed better comfort-related properties from both of the objective and subjective tests. It was also represented that finer yams enhanced water absorption and touch, and fabrics with rough surface such as honeycomb weave was superior in wearing comfort as well as aesthetic appearance.

• 감성과학
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.117-126
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• 2017

본 연구에서는 직/편물 8종을 대상으로 이들 수직방향과 수평방향 수분이동특성 측정방법에 따른 소재들의 수분이동 특성을 분석하였다. 또한, 8종의 시편의 MMT에 의한 건조특성을 수직 건조 측정 결과와 비교하여 논의하였다. 수평수분이동 방법인 MMT 시험 결과는 수직법인 바이렉 방법의 결과와 유사한 거동을 나타내었다. 대나무, 린넨 및 면/나일론 복합 소재는 드롭법의 흡수시간은 짧았으며, 표면의 낮은 접촉각 및 직물의 높은 다공성에 기인한 것으로 판단되며, 친수성 스테이플 섬유의 구조와 상관이 있을 것으로 보인다. MMT에 의한 건조특성은 니트 및 대나무 직물의 최대 흡수반경이 가장 우수했으며, 수식 건조법에 비해 차이를 나타내었다. MMT 방법의 건조속도는 직물의 두께와 포화수분 흡수율과 높은 상관성을 가졌으며, 회귀계수는 각각 0.9와 0.88이었다. 이는 직물의 두께가 얇을수록 위킹 및 건조특성이 우수하며, 기능성 소재기획시 착용 내구성을 판단하는데 중요함을 의미한다. 또한 상이한 섬유소재, 실 및 구조의 소재에 대한 수분이동특성(위킹, 건조)는 측정 방법에 따라 다른 결과를 나타내었다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2019

This study examined the cause of the phenomenon of shrinkage in machine-embroidered fabrics, specifically those made of thin and pliable fabrics. Four woven fabrics and two knitted fabrics were selected as samples for analysis. The fabrics selected were silk organza, flax linen, polyester chiffon, cotton batiste, polyester raschel mesh, and cotton jersey. The thickness and drapability of the fabrics were observed and the shrinkage of the various types of embroidered fabrics produced using satin & step stitch techniques were measured. Moreover, the correlation between the shrinkage of the machine-embroidered fabrics and the drapability of the original fabrics was analyzed. Also, the colorfastness of six embroidery yarns was determined. The results of the study are as follows: first, the shrinkage of machine-embroidered fabrics increased at a greater rate than in embroidered knitted fabrics as compared to rates in embroidered woven fabrics. Moreover, in terms of stitch techniques, there was a greater shrinkage rate when satin stitch was applied compared to step stitch. Second, the shrinkage rate of machine-embroidered fabrics decreased when a stabilizer was fused onto the fabric. The shrinkage rate also decreased for fabrics when fused with paper stabilizer compared to those without it, and the rate decreased at a greater amount with paper stabilizer as compared to alginate film. Third, since there was a strong correlation between the shrinkage rate of the embroidered fabric and the drapability ratio of the original fabric, it was generally the case that the more pliable the fabric was, the greater the shrinkage rate was when the fabric was embroidered. Fourth, while the embroidery yarns mainly used in machine-embroidery presented an overall excellent level of colorfastness, there was slight color migration of level 4 to level 5 when using viscose rayon.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.79-84
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• 2006

This paper deals with the grey fabric deformation during relaxation. It investigates the effect of twist direction and twist liveliness on the 2/2 twill weave woven fabric distortion, during relaxation This experimental work shows that twist liveliness increases the natural tendency of the twill weave woven fabric to skew. In addition when the twist direction of the warp and weft is opposite to each other the bias curling occurs too.

• Composites Research
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.8-14
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• 2010

서로 다른 길이비를 갖는 세 종류의 유리 직물 복합재료(평직, 균형능직, 비균형능직)의 면내 전단 물성 평가를 위해 편향인장 시험을 실시하였다. 직물 복합재료의 전단각을 결정하기 위하여 인장 변형량과 직물의 크기에 기인한 이론식, 직접측정법 및 이미지 분석법등을 이용하여 서로의 장단점을 비교하여 보았으며, 편향 인장 시험의 기하구조를 이용하여 유도된 식을 통해 면내 전단력을 계산하였다. 또한 트렐리스 시험(trellis-frame test)에 의한 결과와의 비교를 통해 편향 인장 시험에 의한 전단 물성 측정법의 정확도를 평가하였다. 실험 결과, 이론식에 의한 전단각 계산법은 전단각이 30도 이내일 경우에 이미지를 통한 직접 측정의 결과와 유사하였으며, 면내 전단력은 평직이나 균형 능직과 같은 등방형 직물의 경우에만 측정 샘플의 길이비에 무관한 균일한 결과를 보였다. 또한 편향 인장 시험과 트렐리스 시험 모두 비등방성이 큰 직물에 대한 전단 평가를 수행하는 데 있어서 많은 편차를 나타내었다.

• 복식
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• 제62권7호
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• pp.41-53
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• 2012

Hwangnamdaechong Tomb (The 98th tomb in Hwangnam-dong), one of the royal tombs located around the area of royal tomb of King Michu in Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju, is currently designated as Historic Site No. 40. It is assumed that Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is a royal tomb of the early 5th century. This study aims to examine the fabric relics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb and currently housed in Gyeongju National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage. The types of fabrics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb include plain silk, warp-faced compound woven silk, and hemp cloth. Most of these fabrics are adhered to metal products that became rusty. Plain silk found in Hwangnamdaechong Tomb can be divided into four types by its weaving method. Geum excavated from Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is typical Gyeong Geum that uses colored warp for its base and pattern. It is plain Gyeong Geum that the binding weft and warp is plain woven. Although there are a lot of Gyeong Geum fabrics whose colors are hard to define due to yellowing after long years, there are still many fabrics whose color such as purple, red, blue, and green can be identified. As literatures have shown that p cloth as well as silk were frequently woven during Silla dynasty, tremendous amount of hemp cloth was excavated. Most of the hemp cloth has S-twist in the warp and 8-12 seung degree of delicacy.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.151-162
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• 2012

The industry-wide development of digital technologies has also affected the textile and fashion industries immensely. The applications of 3D technology, virtual reality, and/or augmented reality systems have helped to create novel fashion brands based on the marriage of IT and textile/fashion industries. 3D digital virtual clothing systems have been developed to help the textile and fashion industries in terms of the planning, manufacturing, marketing and sales sectors. So far, most of the development effort for the 3d virtual clothing systems has been focused on the woven fabrics. The characteristics of woven fabrics differ from those of knitted fabric. Since the physical structures and mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics are definitely different from those of woven fabrics, the simulation process for the knitted fabrics should follow different approaches. The loops in a knitted fabric deform easily. The deformation results in a readily stretchable fabric appearance. Cloth simulation mostly employs models that approximate the mechanical properties of linear elastic planes. This simulation scheme does not, however, describe well enough the behavior of knitted fabrics, which deviate largely from the linear isotropic material characteristics. This study aims at characterizing the tensile deformation and surface textures of a knitted fabric product. Tensile deformation curves for the wale, course, and bias direction are analyzed. The surface texture of the knitted fabric is analyzed by using a 3-dimensional scanning device.