• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.128-133
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• 2004

This paper reports the effects of bleaching of alpaca tops and dyeing of bleached alpaca tops/yarns on the quality of tops and yarns. A dark brown alpaca top was bleached with hydrogen peroxide. Two bleaching methods were tried for effectiveness of color removal. A portion of each bleached top was dyed after bleaching. Color parameters were examined for unbleached, bleached and bleached/dyed tops, these tops were then converted into yarns of different twist levels and counts using a worsted spinning system. Some of the bleached yarn from each bleaching method was dyed in a package dye vat to compare the difference of top dyeing versus yarn package dyeing on yarn quality. Fiber diameter, yarn strength, yarn evenness, yarn hairiness and fiber degradation were tested to examine the effects of bleaching and dyeing on these properties at top and yarn stages. A processing route for bleaching and dyeing alpaca fiber was recommended.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.10
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• pp.65-77
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the correlation between the density, the Count and the width of cross section in 2D function through comparison the difference of simulated fabrics based on the various yarns, and to compare the 3D effect by Lay Mapping of diverse fabrics. The method of research is to weave the eight fabrics composed of cotton, linen, worsted, slender yarn, loop, $m{\acute{e}}lange$, woolen, and yarn twist with Hi-Tex program, and to practice 3D mapping with Hi-Print program. As a mapping object, the flared skirt which is a basic costume item is selected. As a result, the thickness of yarn in CAD system was fixed by the width of cross section rather than Count, especially by the width of core section not including the fluff section. The type of yarn such as cotton yarn, linen yarn, and worsted had effect on the shape of texture, but had few interrelations with dimension. In the case of 3D mapping, the textural characteristic and the dimension were presented precisely, whereas there were several limitations. First, the thickness of tissue has not been represented. Secondly, the effect of texture such as fuzzy look, loop was not expressed on the skirt outline including sideline and hemline. Thirdly, the difference of silhouette was not distinct. The common point in 2D and 3D operations is that the representation of texture is relatively accurate and that is difficult to measure and manifest of thickness, the side. For more professional digitalizing in fashion industry, above all in the domain of 3D, it must be supplement the subdivided and differentiated mapping process according to the texture, deviating from the existing analog-based organization which has to designate the form and silhouette suitable for tissue.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.7
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• pp.807-815
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• 1998

Functions of interlinings to the shell fabric are to improve the garment formability for a beautiful silhouette and elastic potential to the deformed fabric during wearing, and also are to enhance appearance and wearing properties of garment. The objective of this study is to analyse the thermal properties of nonwoven fusible interlining to the thin worsted fabric with various fabric structural parameters. For the purpose fo this study, eight specimens with various weft yarn twists and weft densities of thin worsted fabrics are prepared. Three nonwoven fusible interlinings with different structure which were made by Nylon/Polyester were used for adhering to the thin worsted fabrics. Thermal properties of these 24 adhesive fabrics fused with 3 nonwoven interlinings are measured by KES-F7 System for analysing the thermal suitability of nonwoven fusible interlinings to the thin worsted fabrics with various fabric structural parameters. And air permeability, which was measured by KES-F8-API, of 24 nonwoven adhesive interlining fabrics was also analysed and discussed with the various kinds of nonwoven interlinings and fabric structural parameters.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.443-451
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• 1994

The bending rigidity of yarn is derived in terms of physicil and mechanical characteristics of its constituent fibers and yarns structural parametrs. Theoretical analysis shows that the twist correcti on factor for the bending rigidity of yarn decreases with increase of the ratio of Young's m()dulus to the shear modulus of the constituent fibers. Also, the bending rigidity of yarn decreases as the surface helix angle of yarn increases.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.279-284
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• 2010

This paper surveys basic research for data base system of the fabric structural design. For this purpose, the weave density coefficients of the worsted and cotton fabrics are analysed and discussed with cover factors suggested by Prof. Walz and Picanol company. And the relationship between weave density coefficients and cover factors of the worsted and cotton woven fabrics was analysed and discussed with weave pattern and yarn count. Finally, the process shrinkages of dyeing and finishing processes according to the weave density coefficients of the worsted and cotton fabrics were analysed and discussed as a preliminary study for the data base system of the fabric structural design. As a result, the density coefficients, K values of the worsted and cotton fabrics were ranged from 600 to 1000, and the weave density coefficients of those fabrics are ranged from 0.4 to 0.8 and from 0.2 to 1.0, respectively. The finishing shrinkages for the worsted fabrics are ranged from 2% to 10%, and for cotton fabrics, it was from 2% to 20%. The weave density coefficients of the worsted and cotton fabrics could be distributed according to the looms, weave pattern and weaving and finishing shrinkages as a concept of the data base for the fabric structural design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.515-522
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• 2020

This study examined the effect of the blend ratio of wool and polyester fibers, yarn and fabric structural parameters to the appearance property and the formability of worsted fabrics. The mechanical properties of twenty types of manufactured worsted and PET/wool blend fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems. Garment formability increases with the thickness and cover factor as well as increases with wool content. The correlation between KES-FB and FAST system showed a relatively high correlation with an extensibility of 0.98, bending and shear rigidity 0.71; both were higher than polyester synthetic fiber. The correlation coefficient of garment formability between KES-FB and FAST systems was 0.93 and the correlation coefficient between formability and fabric extensibility was 0.8. These results were higher than those of bending and shear rigidity. This revealed that garment formability was influenced by wool content, cover factor and fabric thickness; however, wool content and fabric thickness were the most important factors for the seam pucker. The garment formability of the worsted fabrics can be predicted by fabric mechanical properties measured from KES-FB and FAST systems.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.295-304
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• 2006

High-bulk worsted yams with different shrinkable and non-shrinkable acrylic fibers blend ratios are produced and then single jersey weft knitted fabrics with three different structures and loop lengths are constructed. The physical properties of produced yams and compression properties of produced fabrics at eight pressure values (50, 100, 200, 500, 1000, 1500 and $2000 g/cm^2$) were measured using a conventional fabric thickness tester. Then, weft-knitted fabric compression behavior was analyzed using a two parameters model. It is found that at 40 % shrinkable fibre blending ratio the maximum yam bulk, shrinkage, abrasion resistance and minimum yarn strength are obtained. It is also shown that high-bulk acrylic yarn has the highest elongation at 20 % shrinkable fibre blend ratio. The statistical regression analysis revealed that the compression behavior of acrylic weft-knitted fabrics is highly closed to two parameter model proposed for woven fabrics. It is also shown that for weft-knitted structure, there is an incompressible layer (V') which resists against high compression load. Acrylic weft-knitted fabrics with knit-tuck structure exhibit higher compression rigidity and lower softness than the plain and knit-miss structures. In addition, at 20 % shrinkable fibre blend ratio, the high-bulk acrylic weft-knitted fabrics are highly compressible.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.420-423
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• 2006

Spandex has been successfully applied on modified worsted spinning system to produce spandex core spun yam. However it's difficult to produce wool/spandex core-spun yam on woolen spinning system with the same modified device because the drafting device of the two systems is quite different. A new method is introduced to apply spandex on woolen spinning system in this paper. Core-spun yam produced in this way has good appearance and quality by comparing with normal yam. A series of experiments were carried out to study the influence of spandex drafting ratio and yam twist factor on tensile' properties and elasticity of core-spun yams. The results indicate that core-spun yam with spandex drawing ratio of 2.5 and twist factor of 13.63 has highest value of tenacity and breaking elongation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.820-828
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to investigate the changes of pore area and water vapour transport by the changes of moisture regain and fabric structure of wool fabrics, As specimens 4 worsted wool fabrics were used. The pore area were measured by image analysis method and dinamic vapour transport and water reisitance was determined by clothing-environment-body modelling system. The pore area was changed by the moisture regain of wool fabrics. The change of pore area was influenced by the yarn twist thread count and cover factor and the weave type. The water vapour transport was changed by the moisture regain. The change of water vapour transport was influenced by the change of pore aree which was determined by image analysis.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.14-18
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• 2003

국내 소모방 업체는 원료를 외국에서 수입하고 있기 때문에 wool 원료를 이용한 고감성 고기능성 제품 개발이 요구되고 있다. 또한 기존 제품은 국제 가격 경쟁력을 상실한 상태이므로 물성개전과 기능성을 향상시킨 획기적인 소재 개발이 요구되고 있는 실정이다. 최근 호주의 CSIRO 연구소에서 개발된 $\ulcorner$Optim$\lrcorner$$^{(R)}$ 은 광택이 뛰어난 모섬유 소재로서 국내에서 수입되어 고감성 의류용 직물로서 상품화가 되고 있다. 그러나 원료가격이 고가인 관계로 원료수금이 원활치 못한 실적이다. 본 연구에서는 생산원가가 저렴하며 50%까지 연신함으로써 광택은 물론 물세탁이 가능한 기능성을 부여할 수 있는 방적 소모사 상태에서 연신하는 기술을 개발하기 위한 최적 공정 조건을 결정하기 위한 실험을 실시하였고 이들 소모사를 이용한 직물의 의류물성을 분석하여 소모사 상태에서 연신기술을 응용한 광택이 우수한 고감성 직물을 개발하기 위해 연구를 수행하였다.