• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.337-343
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• 2000

In this study, the five harness satins are weaved in rapier loom and air-jet loom each using the pure wool Nm 2/72, also the physical characteristics of fabrics that are produced in these weaving machinery in same condition are measured by using the KES-FB system. The results of analysis and comparison on each fabric are presented by classifying items, that is to say, the tensile, bending properties. The results we as follows ; The extensibility of grey fabric woven by rapier in the weft direction is larger than that by air-jet loom. The variation of bending property of grey fabric woven by rapier in the weft direction is more irregular than that by air-jet loom. However, these properties are similar both rapier and air jet fabrics.

• 감성과학
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.23-28
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• 2002

본 연구에서는 의류용 직물의 소리와 변환색채의 특성을 분류하고, 역학특성과의 관계분석을 통해 직물의 역학적 특성과 소리 그리고 변환색채와의 관계를 상관분석하고자 하였다. 다양한 의류용 직물의 스치는 소리를 녹음한 후 소리의 물리량으로 군집분석을 하였으며, Okamoto와 Mori의 색채변환 프로그램을 이용하여 직물의 소리를 색채로 변환하였다. 직물의 소리는 각각 silky, crispy, paper-like, worsted, flax의 다섯 그룹으로 나뉘었다. Silky는 매끄럽고 부드러운 견직물 등으로 구성되었으며, LPT(소리의 음압), $\Delta$f, ARC값이 군집 중 가장 낮아 심리 음향학적 loudness(z)와 sharpness(z)가 제일 낮은 조용한 직물들로 나타났다. 변환된 색채는 홍색 계열이었으며 색채 빈도수가 가장 많았다. raper-like는 뻣뻣하고 파삭파삭한 직물들로 LPT, $\Delta$f ARC값이 군집 중 가장 높아 loudness와 sharpness가 높은 시끄러운 직물들로 나타났다. Worsted는 모직물과 모직물 느낌의 직물들로 LPT, $\Delta$f, loudness값이 paper-like다음으로 높은 값을 보였으며 sharpness는 유사했다. Paper-like와 worsted의 변환된 색채는 청색 계열이 주류를 이루었으며 매우 낮은 색채 빈도수를 나타냈다. Crispy는 표면이 까실까실한 느낌의 직물들로 loudness(z)와 sharpness(z)의 값은 높지 않았으나 변환된 색채는 다양한 색채계열과 빈도수를 나타냈다.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제2권4호
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• pp.196-202
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• 2001

In order to investigate the relationship between subjective sensation for fabric sound and touch and the objective measurements, eight different apparel fabrics were selected as specimens. Sound parameters of fabrics including level pressure of total sound (LPT), level range (ΔL), and frequency differences (Δf) and mechanical properties by Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) were obtained. For subjective evaluation, seven aspects of the sound (softness, loudness, pleasantness, sharpness, clearness, roughness, and highness) and eight of the tough (hardness, smoothness, fineness, coolness, pliability, crispness, heaviness, and thickness) were rated using semantic differential scale. Polyester ultrasuede was evaluated to sound softer and more pleasant while polyester taffeta to sound louder and rougher than any other fabrics. Wool fabric such as worsted and woolen showed similar sensation for sound but differed in some touch sensation in that woolen was coarseast, heaviest, and thickest in touch. In the prediction model for sound sensation, LPT affected positively subjective roughness and highness as well as loudness, while ΔL was found as a parameter related positively with softness and pleasantness. Touch sensation was explained by some of mechanical properties such as surface, compressional, shear, and bending properties implying that a touch sensation could be expressed by a variety of properties.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.820-828
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to investigate the changes of pore area and water vapour transport by the changes of moisture regain and fabric structure of wool fabrics, As specimens 4 worsted wool fabrics were used. The pore area were measured by image analysis method and dinamic vapour transport and water reisitance was determined by clothing-environment-body modelling system. The pore area was changed by the moisture regain of wool fabrics. The change of pore area was influenced by the yarn twist thread count and cover factor and the weave type. The water vapour transport was changed by the moisture regain. The change of water vapour transport was influenced by the change of pore aree which was determined by image analysis.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.295-304
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• 2006

High-bulk worsted yams with different shrinkable and non-shrinkable acrylic fibers blend ratios are produced and then single jersey weft knitted fabrics with three different structures and loop lengths are constructed. The physical properties of produced yams and compression properties of produced fabrics at eight pressure values (50, 100, 200, 500, 1000, 1500 and $2000 g/cm^2$) were measured using a conventional fabric thickness tester. Then, weft-knitted fabric compression behavior was analyzed using a two parameters model. It is found that at 40 % shrinkable fibre blending ratio the maximum yam bulk, shrinkage, abrasion resistance and minimum yarn strength are obtained. It is also shown that high-bulk acrylic yarn has the highest elongation at 20 % shrinkable fibre blend ratio. The statistical regression analysis revealed that the compression behavior of acrylic weft-knitted fabrics is highly closed to two parameter model proposed for woven fabrics. It is also shown that for weft-knitted structure, there is an incompressible layer (V') which resists against high compression load. Acrylic weft-knitted fabrics with knit-tuck structure exhibit higher compression rigidity and lower softness than the plain and knit-miss structures. In addition, at 20 % shrinkable fibre blend ratio, the high-bulk acrylic weft-knitted fabrics are highly compressible.