• 복식
• /
• 제50권
• /
• pp.161-182
• /
• 2000

The results of this study were as follows: The quit has been used for warmth supporting materials protection religious uses decoration and giving stability of shapes. Quilt is developed from monk's robe of lags and the word 'nubi' is originated form 'nabeui' in both Korean and Japan. Korean quilt was used mainly for warmth: Japanese one was used for warmth and supporting materials. The techniques used for traditional Korean quit were parallel vertical hand stitches. On the other hand Japanese traditional quilt uses various motifs of sashiko which is similar to embroidery and named by region. Korean quilt can be divided into three types by the stitch intervals: Fin quit(Jan unbi) Medium quilt(Jung nubi) and Wide quilt(Demun nubi). Japanese quilt has been developed in east-north region and can be grouped into sashiko kogin and hishizashi by motifs of quit. Korean quilt costumes are stuffed with cotton between the outer fabrics and linings and stitched vertically on the fabrics Main fabrics used were silk and cotton. Japanese quilt costume uses cotton yarns for stitching on flax or cotton fabrics used were silk and cotton. fabrics and main uses of the quilot costumes were sorking clothes of working classes. Both Korean and Japanese quilt costumes contain of family's health happiness and longevity. In summary Korean quilts use two layers of fabrics and stuff them with cotton and stitch parallel vertical i\lines to provide warmth Japanese quilt are sashiko which is stitches of strand in various shapes using cotton yarns. differ by region and are made for warmth and supporting materials.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제4권1호
• /
• pp.61-72
• /
• 2002

This paper is the second part of a series of the research about the Teddy boy style which is to examine various fashion changes in subcultural styles in 1900s. The main concern of this research is to investigate the creation and meaning of the Teddy boy style, how it interacted with the elements of class and generation and how the materials needed by the group constructed and appropriated into the visible systematic cultural form of correspondence. The Teddy Boys are the first recognized members of the British youth culture, which is known as the new Edwardian because of their dress. They had created the concept of the "teenagers," which forms the basis of the sense of a "generation" in the 20th century. The Teds set the style that would be used and modified in the following generations. They adopted the Edwardian style of the upper class, and changed it into their own style by modifying it and adding to it some other elements. The Teddy boys style is a special version of the sartorial appropriation encountered in the sphere of the fashion history. It actually began immediately after the war by the upper class youth far from the working class neighborhood. In the late 1953, the elitist aura surrounding the Edwardian suit was suddenly shattered. Within just a few months, the Edwardian suit became a source of social anxiety and the focus of a symbolic battle. Although the Edwardian look had initially went back to the upper class root, it became a symbol of rootlessness. In appropriation of this image, The Teddy boys were also rejecting the sartorial conformism of the English working class with its modest tradition. In this respect, the Teds effected the ascent or fall of the working class in the area of fashion. The Teds dress was not a merely borrowed fashion, but was a bastard fashion in the form of American trends, the Zoot suit. At this time members of the working class possessed only work dress for the week and waist suits for the Sunday outings. Teds broke this pattern, and developed the working class dandyism of wearing clothes simply to show off. The results were that they succeeded in opening the teen market, and popularizing a working class style for the first time in British history. The Teds became the first British street style with ties music, and remain as an symbol of the rising of a new age of values and styles.f values and styles.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제6권2호
• /
• pp.123-133
• /
• 2004

This research analyzed the role of sex and clothing in the seventh version of elementary school textbook-Korean. Analyzed materials were described contents and illustrations or pictures in textbooks - Korean of the wholeclasses with content analysis. The followings are the summary of the results. First, the proportion of males to females is 55.6%. Second, the proportion of female's skirts to trousers is 80.6%. Third, the proportion of female's long hair style to short hair style is 61. 9%. Fourth, mother and female-teacher clothes mainly show skirts. Fifth the results compare father's working with mather's in home: fathers mainly spend the time with family and mothers mainly cook and play roles of housewife. As it was shown above, the ratio of sex in textbooks of elementary school has a tendency to be unfair. Clothing and apperearances of female don't also reflect the present actual tendency. Contents of textbooks are apt to emphasize on the traditional feminine attitudes.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제19권4호
• /
• pp.183-199
• /
• 2015

This study aimed to systematize the apparel vendor work processes and provide useful information to future employees of clothing export units by analyzing the processes of vendors' manufacturing tasks. A survey of 20 apparel vendors servicing mainly U.S. buyers was conducted on employees of overseas business departments working for more than five years. buyers. Based on the results, vendors mainly manufactured cut-and-sew knit products. Regarding the production method, OEM was used more frequently than ODM. Fourteen (70%) companies used the ODM method. This suggests that vendors are expanding their production method from OEM to ODM. In order to summarize the work of each business based on the clothing production process research results, buyers were in charge of planning products and the vendors were in charge of sampling. Production of materials and the approval of material tests were out sourced. Overseas factories of vendors were in charge of bulk (mass) production and garment finishing, as well as packaging and shipping the completed products. Even though the vendors' head offices do not directly produce clothes, they play a pivotal role in ensuring planning and management progress in clothing production. As buyers prefer direct contracts for cost reduction, the vendor additionally performs the role of an agent. Also, with the increase in ODM production ratio, the work area of the vendor is expanding. If Korean clothing exporters improve their global competitiveness by investing in the R&D of materials and design to enhance the ODM method, the development of Korea's clothing and export industry will benefit significantly.

• 복식
• /
• 제65권1호
• /
• pp.46-60
• /
• 2015

This study analyzed the process of development and verification of standards through the competency analysis of fashion accessories products in the development of 'National Competency Standards'(NCS), which was carried out in 2013 for the fashion industry. The NCS for fashion accessories production was developed through three Focus Group Interviews (FGIs) and fashion accessories production was defined as "the process of design, development and manufacture intended to produce items that improve the degree of completion of fashion products that are produced from textile fabric, knitted fabric, leather and other materials such as bags, belts, hats, gloves, scarves, neckties and socks with the exception of clothes". The competency unit for fashion accessories production was analyzed in 11 categories: development of design; development of materials; production of prototype samples; calculation of cost; determination of mass production model and price; planning of main manufacture process; ordering of materials; planning for mass production; preparation for mass production; mass production; and inspection of completed products, and the verification was carried out on development outcomes through a survey carried out of on-site personnel. This study recommends the following direction for future improvements based on an analysis of the development process of the NCS for fashion accessories production. First, future development of standards should first provide a rational category system for each area of fashion good production based on the production process, which should be followed by a detailed competency survey. Second, in order to ensure a more efficient verification survey, an expert for each competency unit should be designated for the develop standard to induce a more sincere response. Also the questionnaire should require supplementation in order to collect the various additional opinions of experts of the field. Finally, this study concludes that it is urgent to procure an education infrastructure and specialized professors in order to apply the competency standard for fashion accessories production to the education sector. This study also concludes that the government will be required to provide systematic and consistent support aimed at supplementing development and forming a firm collaborative working environment for the industry and academia in order to improve the current education environment and build a more field-oriented education environment.

• 복식
• /
• 제51권2호
• /
• pp.149-167
• /
• 2001

Today, every culture has taken on the compromise form by means of the cultural difference, variety, and pluralism according to the internationalization and the advance so that it has been developed toward the half-blooded and multilayered the aspect. In accordance with this current of the times, this thesis observed the feminism found in the multiculturism of the end of the 20th century, the third world, and technology with the side of the tendency of modern fashion, considered the hybride phenomenon which is pulling down the wall between culture and genre due to the social diversification. and predicted the fashion trend do 21st century serf on it. Multiculturism is the movement that began to arise in the academic world of America and the literary world form the close of 1980's in accepting the variety of culture and regarding the culture with the more balanced and wide view and just as it is, it means the attitude of accepting one or more cultures of variely and the position of taking interest in the culture of minority race not the culture of a governing race. It is the fashion of feminism adapts dualism like unisex, androgynous look, etc of bisexual lendency in the 1980's, it shows new style with crossover of liberal sense because there is not the difference of sex in fashion. The eco-feminism pursues the natural sexuality not being instrumental and dismantling and expressed it in the Gender expression of an integrated human being. The trend of ethnic fashion in the close of 20th century is that the element of hippie is working so strongly. By adding embroidery of Oriental style, accessories of Indian style, feathers, beads, a hempen hood to the ethnic costumes of Asia and Latin, is shows the figure of ethnic hippie. As the cycler fashion is the future clothes through technology of computer, it uses a cool glass material bringing up the image of a spacesuit in order to expresses cyber image through artificial color combination of sheen colors, Though this techno-color fashion has established the fresh stimulation and the innovative aspect with ultramodern materials and image of futurism, it transmits a hope of estranged people and the natural elements. Hybride means a cross and mixture of animal and plant in Korean and is also called fusion. The phenomenon of hybrid predicts to comes the period of a cross and variation because something completely new comes into the world by contamination, mixture and compromise through meeting something different each other and it has on advantage of developing something existing to one more stage. It is prospected that in the society of 21st century, the borderline of traditional gender will be disappeared, variety and individuality will determine the individual behavior, and the masculine value will be substituted by feminine value. In the society giving priority to feminine value, a fashion stuck closely to women is what must reflect lives of woman under the proposition of woman's beauty, being on original function. So, it is considered that a fashion with added convenience and practicality having the function which is easy to put on, comfortable to act, able to express solves so much, and able to show various appearances according to T.P.O will get into the spotlight.

• 복식
• /
• 제2권
• /
• pp.73-88
• /
• 1978

This article is an attempt to explain, at least in part, the contemporary Korean women's consciousness of Western Dreasses. As time changes, the role of clothing undergoes varisous transitions, while values and ways of life are constantly in change. It is, therefore, proper and appropriate to recognize as among the major aspects of social psychology such phenomenon as interests, understanding of clothing, the choice of a dress, and attitudes toward clothing, etc. The purpose of this study is to discover problems concerning and their clothing and their solutions, by means of a surveying approach. The method of research used is based upon questionares distributed to parents of first-year pupils in elementary schools and to female clerks working in offices, covering the period from August through October, 1976. The number of the questionares distrubuted totalled 600, and 526 were returned to the research to be utilized for analysis. The contents of the survey included such things as values concerning clothing, kinds of clothing and their practical use, the selection of clothing and the method of purchase, fashions, etc. The classification of aquisition are self-made clothing, clothing made to order and ready-made materials. It is composed of 25 items, including affirmative reasons as well as negative ones. The processing of the material returned was made by using the computer, and based upon classifications such as ages, monthly income, occupations; thus diagraming the result in percentages. The conclusion made and the improvements proposed are as follows: 1. The values of clothing were placed on the expression of the wearer's personality (32.7) and on eauty(28. 6%). The lower age group places is stress upon the expression of personality, while the higher age group stresses beauty. About 50% of wearers are contented with their clothing, their clothing, the rest of whom them indicating their dissatisfaction with what they wear. As to designs at the time of selection, about 46% indicated their preference of personal expression, 31.8% on usefulness. In selecting material, practicality is emphasized; in selecting patterns, single color is preferred. In short, personal expression and esthetic values are primary, with consideration of practicality in mind. 2. The classification of clothing according to their uses indicates the highest numbers in normal wear (home wears) and clothings to be worn outside home. As to evening dresses, (party dress) only one or two articles were checked by many, and no such article was clamed to be possessed by most. The highest ratio of wearing was shown in the case of home wear (47.3%) and clothing to be worn outside the home, which is 55.8%. The budget for one article of clothing was greatest in the case of home wear, and clothing worn outside the home. Many used both kinds of articles for the same purpose. It is desirable, therefore, that the kinds of clothing should be varied according to the purpose for which they are worn, and that clothing appropriate for that purpose should be worn. 3. The motivation for purchasing clothing was highly chosen in the item of seasonal change, which was 55.7%; Clothing deliberately made was indicated by 45.2%. In the mothods of purchasing clothing, clothing made to order and ready-made was indicated by 44.4%, which is the highest; Clothing made to order was 25.4%, and self-sewing was 1.1%, which is the lowest. (1) In the case of self-sewing, "I like it but it is very hard," was checked by 43.6%; "It is so difficult that I cannot wear such clothing" was checked by 13.3%. From these, we can conclude that the questionees are willing to make clothing by themselves, but techniques involved in sewing and at her problems involved in the skill are complicated but when those problems are eliminated there is a possibility for practice. The response checked by questionees concerning the self-sewing was, "It's economical", which is a clear indication that many questionees are positive for self-sewing. It is generally believed that ready-made clothing is cheaper, but it is not necessarily so. In consideration of the quality of clothing, self-sewing is a necessity, and it is desirable that it should be encouraged. (3) Problems involved in ready-made clothing, such as designs, skills, size (fitting) should be eliminated. When these problems are scientifically gotten rid of, it is possible that affirmative returns will be expected. Affirmative responses such as "Ready-made clothing is economical," "You can select there on the spot," are good signs that many women expect to wear ready-made clothing. It is in this sense that the prospect for ready-made clothing is brighter when much development for ready-made clothing is on the way. 4. Much concern for fashion are checked in such item of questions as "Fashionable clothing in the show window," "Clothes worn by women." The first item was checked by 50.1 %, and the second was checked by 48.6%. The reason for following fashion is "Because many people wear them," which was indicated by 30.4%. The reason for not following fashion is "It is too expensive," which was checked by 29.6%. The 26.2% of the answers indicated that "Fashionable clothing is devoid of personality," The influences of fashion over the development of fashion over the development of clothing are two-fold: Esthetic and active. It is not to be deniable that people follow fashion more or less. 1978.9>