• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.623-634
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to explore the culture of clothing of subgroups among adolescents by residence. In this research informants were selected by selective sampling and ethnographic methods such as field work depth interviews and open-ended descriptions were employed to interpret their culture of clothing. The results were followed. First our adolescents enjoyed the popular song as leisure and these popular culture was their inspiration source of style. Second adolescents were grouping the Kang-Bouk and the adolescents group preferred the style of popular singers and the Kang-Nam adolescents group preferred the musical competence of singers and specific type particularly Hip-Hop style. And in acception pattern of fashion style the Kang-Bouk groups accepted the recent fashion style continuously and wanted to be striking while the Kang-Nam groups accepted the various Hip-Hop styles and sought to comfort and suitability of that style. Third to consider the connotations of marketing the Kan-Bouk groups shopped on the street perceived as fashionable among peer groups and sought to the lower price but the Kang-Nam groups used the shops selling their original ip-Hop style without regard to the price and sites. Although there existed a two years' difference between the first and the second research(1996-1998) subgroups among adolescents according to the residence have had their own culture of clothing constantly. And a segmentation tendency by clothing behavior within the same adolescent generation is revealed more visibly.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권3호
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• pp.410-419
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to develop the functionally improved winter work clothing for the Korean railroad workers. Based on the questionnaires, sample clothing for the Korean railroad workers was produced. The design, materials, and patterns were modified to increase mobility and comfort for workers. Water-repellent treatment was added to the material in order to decrease the dirt and stains while working. Also, reflective strips were added to side seams and hems of the trousers in order to increase the visibility and safety of the workers. In terms of the design and pattern, a circumference of 4.5cm was added to the crotch area in order to minimize tightness on the hip and crotch areas, but no additional circumference was added to the hip area. And a 1cm width dart was inserted between the side seams and yoke in order to add activity. Also three 1.4cm width tucks were used at 2.5cm space on the knees to alleviate tightness at the knees. The prototype was evaluated objectively and subjectively to compare with the existing working uniform. The assessment group consisted of 5 subject groups and 11 expert groups to evaluate external appearance and adaptability of the movements. Subject and panels were asked to evaluate the prototype that followed an ergonomic design and pattern. According to the results, the prototype was evaluated better than the existing working uniform in appearance and adaptability. A field test was conducted to compare the prototype and the existing working uniform. The field tests were performed by 6 workers in the Korean railroad. According to the results, the prototype advanced in terms of adaptability and comfort.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권8호
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• pp.1175-1185
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• 2004

This study evaluated thermo-physiological and subjective properties of improved disposable coveralls for railroad carriage maintenance through climatic chamber trials and a filed study. Subjects wore five kinds of disposable coveralls (Type A: a disposable coverall on the market, Type B: a coverall with an improved hood and size-adjustable design, Type C: a coverall with a portable hood, Type D: a coverall with small holes for ventilation, Type E: a sleeveless coverall, Type F: a separated type of coverall with half sleeves) The air temperature in the climatic chamber was set in 9$^{\circ}C$ and 30$^{\circ}C$ For each condition, subjects simulated the railroad work for 120min. and rectal temperature, skin temperatures, clothing microclimate and subjective sensations were measured. The results of chamber trials showed rectal temperature and clothing microclimate did not display significant differences by clothing type. In 30$^{\circ}C$ air temperature, mean skin temperature was higher in Type E and Type F than in Type A(p＜0.05) but between the improved coveralls(B-F), we could not find any significant difference. In the case of thermal comfort, the most preferred types were Type B and Type C in 9$^{\circ}C$ and Type F in 30$^{\circ}C$. All subjects felt more comfortable in the improved coveralls than in coveralls of the market (Type A). In field study, workers preferred Type B, Type C and Type F to Type A but the most favorite type differed by the specific type of work. Especially, workers were dissatisfied that Type D tore easily due to lots of small holes around the armpits and Type I did not protect workers＇ shoulder and arms from oil contamination. According to the climatic chamber trials and field study, the most effective coveralls were Type B and Type C for winter and Type F for summer.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.300-313
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• 2005

Hybrid trend of the 21st century is an important basis to express fashion Alexander McQueen is a representative designer of Hybrid trend which combines heterogeneous elements into oneconcept. Accordingly, this study distributed and analyzed Hybrid trend which was in Alexander McQueen's work like below. First, there was a racial Hybrid trend which combined different local culture in shared space of the world in his fashion work and he challenged to Westernized ideal beauty with new recognition and knowledge about beside countries of Western Europe which were considered as not important culture due to perceiving relative value of a pluralist society and created new way aesthetic consciousness. Second, he expressed a historical character of a combination of tradition and modern by his fashion work based on wide historical knowledge of a dress. He created a new line in contrast to the past with a perfect design through combination of the style from the tradition with the parody and displayed his own design world. Third, he treated instability and disorder from the interior essential dissolution, thus he had a cultural character which broke down the boundary of cultural genre and style. This attitude showed transformation of constructivism and deconstruction view, secession and distortion, mixture, duplication, secession and insert by his fashion work.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.14-25
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• 2005

The objective of this study is to understand bodily extension and identity in contemporary fashion art through the analysis of 'the fashion acting on the body' among the fashion theory excluding body and the conspicuous works on the opening and covering images as a fashion art as a body-space'. This study also investigated identity problems where there are poles apart in opening and closure their bodies and body-space in which its clothing types were distorted by being de-bodilization out of the traditional and ideological expression method in contemporary fashion art from a opening and closure point of view. Image of opening and closure among body-space in fashion art can be classified into opposing structure of opening and closure. Destroying the boundary between bodily opening and closure for a primary function of clothing and dismantling the role and boundary between body and clothing, opening body-space in appearance as a reemergence of body image or the border between inner and outer are being ambiguous because of transparent material. Being representative work of this study opening body-space was expressed as an opening space image using transparency. On the contrary, closure body-space was isolated from external environment and confined in the certain space, which could limit or restraint body- action. Excluding boundary of body and clothing on the whole or in part, boundary of work becomes body-space. However, these were appeared to be a work inducing unlimited curiosity and meaning from the audience. The interpretation of artistic and body-space in fashion art are indicating the role and function of the fashion art exceeding the suggestible dimensions in the every day life of fashion. The body-space of fashion art showing similar aspect of body art today could be understood that it is substituted into an metaphorical, critical space by seeing it as a symbol system connected with social space. Therefore, contemporary fashion art should be interpreted as an equivocal space looking at the body-space with open mind.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.202-209
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• 2018

This study examined thermo-physiological responses according to the design change of construction site working clothes (control (C) working clothes; prototype (P) working clothes). We measured rectal temperature, skin temperature, micro-climate within the clothes and sweat rate. In the evaluation of physiological functionality, based on pattern improvement in working clothes, P working clothes showed significantly lower rectal temperatures, trunk and thigh skin temperatures than C working clothes. It is preferable that rectal temperature should be kept low during work that is not favorable to an increase in body temperature. P working clothes were more physiologically functional than C working clothes. In addition, P working clothes showed significantly lower temperatures in the trunk and thigh parts in a micro climate temperature. We could explain that the side seam zipper on the pants and the gusset on armpit parts create an air permeability effect of lowering the temperature of micro-climate. Aggressive ventilation through the slit of the garment is an important factor for the restoration of the physiological function of the worker at rest between work. Sweat rate showed a higher level in C working clothes than P working clothes. When working in a hot environment, workwear needs to be designed so that the worker is not exposed to thermal stress. Therefore, it was evaluated that the P work clothes used in this study alleviated the physiological burdens of heat.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권2호
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• pp.240-257
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• 2016

This study determines the effect of 3D compression pants and Kinesio taping on muscular function of the leg during knee joint flexion and extension. Eight males participated in the experiment, wearing basic pants (BP), Kinesio taping on bare skin (KT), 3D compression pants with (KTP) and without Kinesio taping (CP). The test protocol for isokinetic muscular function was composed of four sets at three angular velocities (60, 180, $240^{\circ}/sec$) using Cybex 660. Peak torque and work per repetition of the lower limbs of eight males were analyzed from the result of Cybex. Agility and power of the subjects were examined from side step and sergeant jump. Peak torque, average power, work per repetition, force decay time of subjects wearing CP and KTP were significantly better than BP or KT, especially at low angular velocity of $60^{\circ}/sec$. The time to generate peak torque of subjects wearing BP was the longest, while the force-decay time of BP was the shortest. The application of Kinesio tape on skin did not increase muscle peak torque, work and power, but did shorten the time to generate peak torque.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.1009-1020
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• 2009

This study aims to express the androgynous image via shirts as a fashion item. Shirts are widely worn as a fashion item regardless of sex and age, with growing importance as a casual outer, with the increase in leisure activities driven by the recent implementation of the 5-Day Work Week system in Korea. As for the theoretical background, the study was reviewed previous studies of books, thesis, a series of publication, and the Internet sites on this topic. Through a careful analysis of these previous studies, it designed and made shirts that inspired by androgynous image. Conclusions of this study are as follows: First, the study found that meanings of symbolism in clothing continue to change, not fixed at all, depending on historic and cultural environments, and so does symbolism for femininity and masculinity of clothing. Second, shirts are widely worn as a fashion item regardless of sex and age, with growing importance as a casual outer, with the increase in leisure activities driven by the recent implementation of the 5-Day Work Week system in Korea. Third, two patters were used for the work in this study in order to emphasize its form, along with mono color white and stripe patterns. For materials, cotton and blend as a most basic material for a shirt were used with unique variations in the form. Fourth, decorative details or trimming such as ribbon tying methods, shirring, attaching in layers, and irregular pleading widely used for women's wear were applied, and silhouettes with strong drape feelings were used to add feminine feature to men' shirts, in an effort to propose a fashion design of the androgynous look. Fifth, clothes proposed in this study are different from feminine clothing item blouse, because they are androgynous shirts mixing masculinity and femininity. Stiff pads were used in collars and cuffs characteristics of men's traditional shirts to maintain masculinity of a shirt, and design was developed by adding feminine decorative elements, which is different from women's blouse.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.357-369
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• 1992

The purpose of this study was to clarify the relationship between the Ideal Beauty of Body and the Form of Dress, and to analyze its historical perspectives. First of all, the concept of the Ideal Beauty of Body, the definition of Dress Form, and the method and system to clarify Dress Form were depicted. Based on this frame work, the Form of Dress related to the Ideal Beauty of Body was described historically. For this purpose, documentary research were conducted and representative photography and paintings were used. The analysis was limited to the female one-Piece dress from Ancient Egypt, Greece, Rome, Byzantine, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, Naoclassicism, and to Romanticism. The results were as follows: 1. The Ideal Beauty of Body was found to be different throughout history and to be intimate- ly linked with fashionable dress. 2. The Form of Dress consisted of four basic components: The form of body itself, the form of clothing itself, the method of wearing, and the relationship between body and clothing. 3. The standards for classification of body form were body structure, body type, body proportion, posture, and movement. Clothing form was generally classified into flat type (unstructured type) and three dementional type (structured type); flat type was subclassified into draped type and tunic type. The method of wearing was classified into attached type, tying-up type, wrap·around type, pull-over type, open type and plastistic type. The relationship between body and clothing after wearing was generally classified into body priority type and clothing priority type. The clothing priority type was further divided into body exaggeration type and body concealment type; Body exaggeration type was further divided into upward type, downward type, forward type, backward type, right type and constriction type. 4. The pursuit of venus coelestis, metaphysical body part, ectomorphic body type, flat type clothing, body priority type; the pursuit of Venus Naturalis, physical body part, endomorphic body type, three dementional type clothing, clothing priority type proved to be closely related respectively by the historical study on the Ideal Beauty of Body and the Form of Dress.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.41-54
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to research on status of physical discomfort and clothing life including clothing inconvenience for enhancing self-reliance of elderly women, newly emerging consumer. The subject of research were 346 elderly women who aged 60 or older in Seoul and Seoul Suburbs. Survey consisted of questions about body discomfort, satisfaction and purchasing criteria of ready-to-wear, the inconvenience of clothing. The results of this study are as follows: Physical discomforts were generally associated with the ability to regulate body temperature. The biggest complaint of ready-to-wear was the price, and the next were the size and activity. In purchasing criteria, 'clothes to fit my body shape', 'clothes easy to put on and take off', 'comfortable clothes to work' showed high score. In clothing inconvenience, 'feel inconvenience due to several layers of clothing to avoid chilliness', 'feel heaviness in the waist due to tightness', 'feel chilliness even when wearing several layers of clothing in the winter' were the most uncomfortable parts. Subjects over the age of 80 years and needed the help of others in activities experienced more inconvenience in clothing life. It seems that body discomfort such as dulness of movement and loss of body temperature regulation capability due to aging had a influence on their clothing life. This problem could be improved by the adjustment of pattern allowance, the selection of the fastener, and the proper use of functional fabric. The results of this study will be used as a basis for development of the elderly women's clothing to increase convenience and mobility in everyday life.