• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.8
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• pp.1057-1064
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• 2004

Silk, polyester, cotton, and wool fabrics were embroidered with varying stitch length of 3mm, 5mm, and 10mm to examine the difference in fabric shrinkage in terms of sewing direction, fabric thickness, cover factor, stitch length, and fiber type. Warp, filling, and bias direction of sewing resulted in no difference in fabric shrinkage. Within the samples with same stitch length, there was less fabric shrinkage in fabrics with higher fabric thickness or higher cover factor. There was larger shrinkage when sewn with longer stitch length. Comparing fabrics with different fiber types but similar fabric thickness, silk and polyester fabrics showed the smallest fabric shrinkage and wool fabrics showed the largest shrinkage. It is shown that similar fabric shrinkage between silk and polyester is due to the similarity in cover factor.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.92-101
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• 2007

This research was carried out following the preceding research on natural cellulose fabrics dyed with extract of fresh african marigold petals. Dyeability on fabrics was tested by dyeing with wool and silk which are natural protein fibers. Dyeing tests were carried out under different pH of the dye solution and mordants, examining the changes in the surface color, K/S value, and maximum absorption wavelength. The probability of improving dyeability was investigated by pre-mordanting with pre-treated chitosan. Wool fabrics showed color tone of medium or less saturation and brightness, in dark yellow color series. An orange color of high saturation was only obtained by tin mordanting. Wool showed higher K/S value than cellulose fibers. In summary, marigold dye has more affinity for protein fibers. It showed better dye effect in wool than silk. The chitosan pre-treatment and pre-mordanting lowered the K/S value of wool, which showed that chitosan pre-treatment does not improve dye uptake. However, different from the dyeing carried out by pre-mordanting without pre-treatment with chitosan, more diversified colors could be obtained by mordants. Therefore, for the dyeing natural protein fibers with marigold extract, post-mordanting does not require chitosan pre-treatment. However, pre-mordanting with chitosan pre-treatment could implement diverse colors. Considering its dyeing behaviors which are similar in both natural cellulose and protein fibers, african marigold extracts can be evaluated as a stable and highly practical dye.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.173-180
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• 2008

Cotton, wool, cotton/wool blended (80:20) and tencel fabrics were treated with low temperature oxygen plasma, enzymes (cellulase or protease), or oxygen plasma-enzyme and they were examined for dyeing and handling properties for environment friendly finishing. The appropriate conditions for cellulase treatment were enzyme concentration of 3g/l, pH of 5, and $60^{\circ}C$ for one hour, and for protease treatment were enzyme concentration of 4g/l, pH of 8, and $60^{\circ}C$ for one hour. The equilibrium uptake of a direct dye on cotton changed with plasma treatment and plasma-cellulase treatment, and the rate of dyeing slightly decreased. When wool was dyed with acid dye, the equilibrium dye uptake did not change with plasma, protease treatment nor plasma-protease treatment, however, the rate of dyeing had increased with plasma-protease treatment. From these results, it is assumed that plasma attacks the surface of the fiber, and enzyme mainly affects the inner part of the fiber. Plasma treatment did not affect mechanical properties related to the handling of fabrics. The handling test showed increased extension at maxmum load(EM), tensile energy(WT) with decreased tensile resilience (RT), and the fabrics became softer but resilience decreased slightly with enzyme treatment. The bending recidity(B), hysteresis of bending moment(2HB), and hysteresis of shear force at five degrees(2HG5) decreased, however, shear stiffness(G) increased. I knew the plasma pre-treatment made fabrics softer with lower koshi(stiffness). The handling of plasma pre-treated fabrics was better than that of enzyme-treated fabrics. When we pre-treated fabrics, the handling test showed decreased coefficient of friction(MIU), geometrical roughness(SMD), while the surface of fabrics became smoother and numeri increased. Even though compression resilience(RC) increased, fukurami(bulky property) and compressive elasticity, decreased due to the linearity of compression-thickness curve(LC) and compression energy(WC).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.8 s.145
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• pp.1158-1167
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to examine the effect of structural properties of plain knit fabrics on the subjective textures and sensibilities of consumers. We investigated the relationship of subjective textures and sensibilities according to fiber contents of wool/rayon and stitch loop length. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. A factor analysis showed that subjective textures are classified into 3 categories with $R^2=70.32\%$: 'surface-rough', 'drapable', 'bulky' and 'elastic' and subjective sensibilities into 3 categories with $R^2=68.12\%$: 'stable/neat', 'feminine/elegant' and 'natural/comfortable'. The fiber contents of wool/rayon had a positive and linear relation with 'surface-rough', but had a relatively non-linear one with 'bulky' and 'elastic' categories of textures, and 'feminine/elegant' of sensibilities. The stitch loop length had a linear influence on 'drapable' and 'stable/neat', but had a non-linear influence on other subjective textures and sensibilities.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.283-289
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• 2001

Shrink resist finishing of wool fabric was carried out with Monoethanol aminesulphite (MONAMIN BTN) shrink resist agent after chlorination with Dichloro isocyanuric acid (DCCA). The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of treating conditions, such as concentrations of DCCA and MONAMIN BTN, pH of treating bath, dyeing times, curing times and temperatures, on dyeing property of wool fabrics. K/S values and fastness properties of dyed wool fabrics were measured. The K/S values of dyed fabrics were increased gradually with increasing concentration, and decreased with increasing curing time. The optimum dyeing time and curing temperature were 60 min and $140^{\circ}C$, respectively. Also it seems likely that the shrink resist finishing carried out at 3% (o.w.f.) of MONAMIN BTN and pH 7 of resin treating bath is effective in increasing K/S values. Light fastness of fabric dyed was very poor and the fastness of fabric dyed was not influenced by the treatment conditions.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.306-313
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• 2010

To achieve color diversification of natural dyeing, color mixture dyeing with Indigo and Japanese pagoda tree is applied to wool and silk fabrics. After dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree extract solution of 5~25%(o.w.f.), the indigo dyeing was carried out up to four times. Alternatively after repeat dyeing with indigo one to seven times, the dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree extract solution was applied in 5 steps(5~25%). In color mixture dyeing, the dye uptake of wool fabrics appears higher than that of silk. The sequence of Japanese pagoda tree extract dyeing after Indigo dyeing was generally higher dye uptake compared with that of Indigo dyeing after Japanese pagoda tree extract dyeing. For wool and silk fabric, the pre-dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree solution was more effective for color diversification but the pre-dyeing with Indigo was more effective for the exhibition of intermediate color shade.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.8
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• pp.1248-1253
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• 2002

Coocus laccae(Laccifer lacca Kerr), usually known as Lac, is a kind of cocoon which is parasitic on the tree around India and China. It contains the laconic acid of red colored dyes and has been used for cosmetic or natural dyeing prior to the introduction of New World cochineal. Nevertheless, the characterization of lac has not been studied, very little informed. The purpose of this study is to examine the effects of dyeing conditions fur Lac extract, such as pH of dye bath, concentration of Lac exact dyeing temperature and time, to find out the optimum conditions. The results were as follow. 1. The highest K/S values of the silk and wool was shown at PH 3 and PH 4. 2. K/S values of the silk came to nearly the adsorption equilibrium state at 40$^{\circ}C$ and the curve of wool showed a dramatic increase with the increase of temperature. 3. Dyed silk and wool fabrics showed good light fastness without using mordants.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.623-629
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• 2007

Recently, the $"Optim"^{(R)}$ which is the wool fibre with high lustre developed by CSIRO in Australia is imported and commercialized as a high sensible fabrics for garment. But the price of this $"Optim"^{(R)}$ fibre is very high so material demand and supply is not smooth. This study is aiming to develop the drawing technology of the worsted yarn with washable function, lustre and low production cost. For this purpose, drawing yarns are made using developed drawing machine and high sensible fabrics are woven using this yarns, and various physical properties of the fabric specimen are measured and analysed with garment characteristics such as sewability and formability. The final objective of this study is seemed to be achieved by making the high sensible fabrics using drawing worsted yarns with high lustre such as $"Optim"^{(R)}$ fibre.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.263-274
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• 2001

This study investigated the dyeability on silk, wool and rotten fabrics dyed with Magnolia liliflora leafs. In addition, the fastness of washing, perspiration, rubbing, drycleaning and the effects of its pigment on bacterial reduction and uv-B protection were also investigated. The results were as follows : It was found that uv-visible absorption spectrum showed two strong absorption peaks in the range of $250{\sim}340nm$. The optimum dyeing condition of the pigments extracted from the Magnolia liliflora leafs was dyeing with 0.5% mordants and three repeated dyeing at $95^{\circ}C$ for 1hr. When the wool fabric was dyed with Magnolia liliflora leaf, dyeing properties was the best among the three fabrics. Washing fastness of dyed fabrics was very low, drycleaning fastness was good and the other fastness were good. Light fastness of three fabrics dyed by Magnolia liliflora leafs increased by mordant treatment, especially copper sulfate treatment. The bacterial reduction and uv-B protection of dyed wool fabric with Magnolia liliflora leafs also increased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.12
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• pp.1971-1978
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• 2009

This study investigated the adsorption of safflower yellow dye on wool protein fiber and the optimum dyeing conditions to test color reproducibility. In addition, the effects of mordants on dye adsorption, color, fastness, and photofading rate were also studied. The prepared dye in powder form was characterized with UV-vis spectroscopy and FT-IR spectrometric analysis. The color of dyed fabrics was characterized by CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ coordinates, H V/C, and K/S values. The color reproducibility of the dyed wool fabrics was examined. The amount of dye adsorption increased and also, the shade of the dyed wool fabrics became deeper and more saturated with increasing temperature, time, and dye concentration. The maximum color strength was obtained at pH 3.0. The shade of dyed wool fabrics ranged from light yellow to dark mustard yellow as the pH of the dye bath shifted from alkaline to acidic. Color reproducibility was reliable with color differences in the range of 0.53~1.75. Fastness to dry cleaning was relatively good at 4/5 rating irrespective of mordanting. Fe and Cu mordants showed the least color change of the dyed wool fabrics after exposure to light. Mordants did not contribute to improve dye uptake and color fastness, although they made variations in color tone. Safflower yellow dye can be used satisfactorily without mordants and will not cause damage to the environment.