• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.5-14
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• 2001

Excavated costumes at the women's tomb in 17C have been sustained good condition. These materials give us that Jang ui(長衣) and so chang ui(소창의) with chechori(유), skirt, trousers(袴) reflects on women's fashion style at that time. By seeing these costumes, we can get the characteristics of costumes in mid-chosun era with chechori, skirt, jang ui, so chang ui etc. The features of chechori in this area are follows : form - diagonal gil, collar - kalkit and tangkokit, length - about 50cm, materials - silk, cotton, grass-cloth, kind - single, double. clothing padded with cotton wool etc. It is the first time that chang ui, one of Po, is excavated in this area. There are three pieces of jang ui which is significant data to study deeply on the costume in 1700's. Jang ui mainly made of silk in pattern, silk, cotton and decorated stylish printing on the robes. With these material and style, we can induce the mode of mid-chosun period. Through comparative studying we have many chances to understand women's the garment for the dead(염습의) in mid-chosun period.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.161-167
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• 2006

The purpose of this research are to identify the nature of artistic beauty of Kokuryeo dresses and to apply the artistic beauty, formative uniqueness, and esthetic value of Kokuryeo in the modern Korean dress design for creation of new designs. Significance of this research lies in the fact that beauty of traditional dresses possesses highly valuable importance for application to modern fashion design processes. Kokuryeo dresses basically comprised of Yu, Sang, Go and Po, and contains within abstract beauty along with emphasis on geometric elements like dots, lines, and surfaces. Red, Black, Violet, Verdant and scarlet colors were moderately used against the mainly white canvas, and different colors were often used for the top and the bottom. Silk, Hemp cloth and Wool were used for different social levels or ranks, and from the wide variety of colors and patterns of the dresses, such as Round-patterns, Cloud-patterns and Vine-patterns, worn by the people illustrated on the wall paintings, it appears that various materials were used. Vertical hems, Yu (shirts), Sang (skirts), noblemen's dresses, kings' dresses, etc. from Kokuryeo tomb wall paintings were applied, and various dying methods, natural materials and sewing methods were used to recreate the unique features of Kokuryeo dresses in modern designs in an attempt to recreate the esthetic value of Kokuryeo dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.12
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• pp.1933-1946
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• 2010

This paper is a comparative analysis of the $19^{th}$ century practice of indigo dyes and dyeing in Korea and England. From over hundreds species of indigo plants in the world, it was dyer's knotweed and woad that were cultivated in Korea; however, the only indigo plant grown in England was woad. Indigo dye was produced in the form of damp indigo sediment (jeon) in Korea; however, imported indigo (as a main dye) and couched woad (as an additional dye) were indigo dyes used in England. There existed three kinds of indigo vats, the ice vat, ash-water vat, and indigo sediment (jeon) vat, in Korea. The fresh leaves of indigo were used for both the ice vat and ash-water vat. The ice vat was very convenient for preparation, but had a weakness in the inability to produce a very deep shade of blue. The ash-water vat and indigo sediment (jeon) vat were in use for producing a very deep shade of blue. The indigo sediment Goon) vat was employed presumably only by professional dyers. The indigo vat practiced in England was categorized into two types; one was woad-indigo vat, and the other was an indigo powder vat prepared by using imported indigo rock. There was a tendency to adopt different kinds of indigo vats according to the material to be dyed. The woad-indigo vat was employed for the dyeing of wool. A few of chemical vats with imported indigo were adopted, especially for the dyeing of cotton. Indigo dyers in 19th century Korea were differentiated from the rest of the dyers. They managed the growing of indigo plants as well as the production of indigo sediment (jeon). Woad dyers in 19th century England handled woolen cloth as well as worsted and woolen yarn in general. However, they sometimes dyed silk skein as well. They produced several colors such as black, blue, slates, grays, by using both woad and imported indigo.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.12
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• pp.59-69
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• 2011

The conservation treatment and production technique of Yongmuntujoeunpanpi-Angyo(Saddle Ornament) at Hwangnamdaechong were: The conservation treatment removed foreign material by using both chemical method and physical method to reinforce and to recover area by jointing that was destroyed and weakened. Not only Angyogeumgu but also Jwamokseongeumgu was made of 99wt% or more silver (Ag), and Wondujeong, Naeyeongeumgu and Bokryung were produced by amalgam gold plaiting. Not only Angyogeumgu but also Jwamokseongeumgu that was cast with silver plate was jointed by folding both and putting Naeyeongeumgu on it and then nailing gild ofwondujeong at specific interval. A tree that grew up in curve was used, and it was adhered by plain weave fabric of hemp cloth and wool.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Safety
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• v.39 no.2
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• pp.1-8
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• 2024

Unwanted effects of electrostatic phenomena occur in various industries. Electrostatic problems originating from the human body in flammable atmospheres in the industry are especially concerning. A substantial volume of experimental data on the electrostatic charging voltages created on the human body owing to the rubbing of apparel were generated and reviewed during this study. The data were reviewed to determine whether the resultant charging levels of the human body are hazardous in flammable atmospheres. This study was conducted under several conditions, such as different fiber types used in apparel, shoe types, and relative humidities (RHs). The following conclusions were drawn in this study. ① The electrostatic charging levels of the human body owing to the rubbing of apparel increase with the increase in the surface resistances of apparel; however, the electrostatic charging levels may be different depending on the condition of the cloth surface. ② The discharging energy of 1.98-18.5 [mJ] from the human body exceeds the minimum ignition energy of most flammable materials, when removing an overcoat made of polyester, cotton and wool under severe conditions such as wearing height-raising shoes for men. ③ When removing antistatic apparel, the maximum discharging energy of 0.128 mJ from the human body is dangerous if the minimum ignition energy of the flammable material is between 10^-5-10^-4 [J] Grade; however, a minimum ignition energy of 10^-3 J Grade of the flammable material is considered safe. ④ While wearing antistatic shoes, the electrostatic charging voltage generated in the human body when removing an overcoat is 30 V; therefore, wearing such shoes is a suitable countermeasure when handling flammable materials. However, the antistatic abilities of shoes reduce when thick socks are worn. ⑤ As RH increases, the electrostatic charging levels of the human body decrease. ⑥ The electrostatic charging levels of the human body from removing a cotton overcoat can ignite the majority of flammable materials when RH is less than 30% under severe conditions such as wearing height-raising shoes for men.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.93-101
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• 1998

Knit products which had been limited only to underwear, recently became popularized, fashionized and highly classified covering even outer garments such as sportswear like golfwear, woman's dress, and man' s suit. As fashion cycle is getting shorter and the more a nation advanced prefers knit to woven fabrics knit industry has a very bright prospect, particularly woman's knit which is sensitive to fashion can be said as a fashion product with high value added. This study is to grasp the physical properties of stitch which are fundamental to the development of knit products. For this purpose, 2/20s of 100% wool were woven by the author of this study to basic plain stitch, rib stitch, varied transfer stitch, and float stitch on a SEMASEIKI cross knitter 7G to test the physical properties, and the result was as follows; 1. As for the relation between knit stitch and rate of extension recovery, rate of extension recovery was higher in the course direction than in the wale direction of three stitches except transfer stitch; rib stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the course direction while float stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the wale direction. 2. As for the relation between knit stitch and bursting strength elastic rib stitch showed higher bursting strength to indicate elasticity is an important factor of bursting strength and float stitch showed higher bursting strength too to indicate that the floating yarn on the surface plays a role of support. 3. As for the relation between knit stitch and air permeability perforated transfer stitch showed the lowest air permeability to prove that the size of perforation affects on the air permeability a great deal. 4. As for the relation between knit stitch and warmth retaining rib stitch through two lined needle bar showed the highest degree. The reason the warmth of perforated transfer stitch didn't decrease much was because the perforation wasn't big enough and content of air increased from the unevenness of the perforated parts through stitch variation. Based upon this result, each stitch can be characteristically summarized as follows; plain stitch showed a stable condition of knit cloth in four kinds of physical property test. And rib stitch is proper to tighten the edge of sleeve or clothe making use of its excellent extension recovery and to make socks for the highest bursting strength and warmth retaining. In the case of transfer stitch, seasonable designs can be taken by controlling the size of loop. Considering the pleasantness, underwear should be made of stitches with good air permeability float stitch was revealed to have color and pattern effects and a great bursting strength. This study has limitations in the aspect that it dealed with a small part of various knit stitches and the items of physical property test were not enough. The author of this study hopes that further studies would make deeper understandings about knit stitch based on more varied stitches and physical property tests ultimately to contribute to the development of fashionable designs proper to maximize the usage, function and originality.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.25-33
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• 2001

This study is to analyze Korean-Chinese women's Costume in Yabian with factors such as reform opening-up, economic growth, change of social values, development of technology, more education opportunities and influence of mass media. It divides the 1990's into two halves. Photos, interview, observation and relevant literature were used for this study. Even though economy grew rapidly, they needed to purchase daily goods other than clothes. In a way that they preferred practicality, it showed somewhat it was still developing. The trend in the first half of the 1990's was characterized : first, Synthetic or artificial fibers and ready-made suits were popular ; second, there still remained the men's style ; third, they wore Tanrikoo(彈力袴), Tisingkoo(體型袴), Jiaotakoo(脚袴) because of its properties of activeness and comfort ; fourth, shoulders looked ore prominent with pads as they were used in Chungsanfoo(中山服) ; fifth, clothes in grey and dark blue was in fashion ; sixth, they wore hand-made knit vests and sweaters and often mountain-climbing gears for its light and warm quality ; seventh, along with opening-up, various materials and colorful clothes were in style, which satisfied women's desire for beauty. They decorated Hanbok(韓服), using sleeves with colors, golden ornaments, flower patterns embroidery, materials of different color in collar and tie and dyes of sleeves and skirts. In the first half of the 1990's when the opening-up was beginning, there were diverse styles and colors in fashion, yet not close to good quality. As the economy grew, the second half of the 1990's was characterized by good palate, individuality, favouritism on foreign goods, rapid change of fashion. For instance, fur coat and woolen fabric were favored. Economic growth led to abundance of cloth, dyes and decorative materials. In addition, people possessed more clothing and it was possible for them to wear both Hanbok and wedding dress in wedding ceremony. People placed their standards on competency and financial ability rather than ideology. Worship disappeared and individuality arose. Therefore, apparel functioned not only as protection but as suits with aesthetic purpose. This resulted in introduction of bold style, imitation of western countries and extension of use of Hanbok. With the help of mass media, transportation, telecommunication, contact with Korean company and civilians, Korean and western cultures, through Korea, were accepted. Change in structure of economic status caused excessive spending and more educational opportunities that enabled people to accept foreign culture quickly. Values moved onto new, beautiful and better characteristics. it was possible to have suits ready-made due to improvement of mass production and cotten, wool, linen, silk became popular owing to technology. New technology, the bases of mass consumption, increased possession of clothing and accelerated change of fashion. In summary, women's Costume in Yanbian were affected by the factors in economy, politics, culture contact as well as change of society and technology.

• The Journal of the Acoustical Society of Korea
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.254-260
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the sound absorption characteristics of a human body according to the amount of clothing worn by using reverberation method measurement method for developing standard test dummy, which can be used for testing absorption of occupied audience chair. Test method was based on the previous study (Conti et al., 2004), each experiment is conducted in the reverberation room and a subject wearing clothes is standing in that chamber. In this experiment, the sound absorption area of each frequency band according to the wearing of various material clothing was measured. As a result of measurements, the average sound absorption area of the whole frequency band was $0.25m^2-0.48m^2$ in case of a subject not wearing outer clothes, and $0.38m^2-0.98m^2$ in case of wearing of outerwear. Polyester tops by showing the maximum value, the highest characteristics in the 800 Hz to 1 kHz band among the rest of fiber materials. The outer jacket made of the wool and cotton materials show a higher absorption area as the frequency increases to the higher frequency band. The change of the sound absorption area according to the clothing amount was divided by the thermal resistance (clo) of the worn clothes and the weight per body surface area.