• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.3
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• pp.1-17
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• 2016

This study examined and analyzed the women's jeogoris in the Seoul Gwangjang Market and Busan Jin Market. They study explored the items to look into the current state of the Jeogori patterns, as well as investigate the flat pattern jeogoris, including its source and aspects of change. Korean women's body figure has become more westernized, and the purpose of this study is to investigate the effects of this change on the traditional jeogoris. We hope to gather valuable data, which can be used to propose a new direction for designing hanbok in the future. The study methods are as follows: First, the types of jeogori patterns were examined. Second, the current state of jeogori patterns in the Seoul Gwangjang market and Jin market in Busan were analyzed to look into how the patterns have transitioned. And lastly, the reason for the origination of the flat pattern jeogori and the type of changes will be examined. Current study results show that two pattern types are being used: the flat composition jeogori and the flat pattern jeogori. Surveys show that more than 90 percent of the jeogoris in the Seoul Gwangjang Market are of the flat composition pattern variety, while more than 90 percent of jeogoris in the Busan Jin Market are of the flat pattern variety. In 1998, western-style dress designers in Busan introduced the flat pattern jeogoris, which were used to get rid of the wrinkles caused by the extra space, into the market after the financial crisis period in Korea, as a way to revitalize the market. This new pattern was popular among tea aficionados and traditional Korean musicians. It was exposed to the public via different mediums, such as TV programs, magazines, and brochures. Busan was the first to be exposed, and then it spread to Seoul. It also seems that the reduction of production cost caused the increase of the flat pattern jeogori.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.56-68
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• 2016

Popular culture has symbolic meaning and has been constructed through different mass media. Newspapers played a significant role in 1950s and 1960s public culture. In particular, editorial cartoons in newspapers expressed social aspects of the age implicitly through satire and criticism. This study examines delivered culture by reflecting the past social aspects and inquiring on clothing featured in the editorial cartoon "Gobau". As for a research method, literature research was conducted on clothing of the age with a review of "Gobau". As for a research range, examination was done based on the complete works of Gobau composed of 5 volumes published as a first edition by Hankookmunhwasa on November, 1973. Early "Gobau" cartoons from 1951-1963 were published in 5 volumes; therefore, research was conducted for the era from 1950s to the early 1960s. Clothing expressed in "Gobau" were reviewed, classified into formative characteristics and internal meaning. Internal meaning was examined by dividing into the expression of social aspects and criticism of society. The research findings are as follows. First, clothing in "Gobau" reflected characteristic in direct manner. There was a coexistence of Hanbok and western-styled, clear distinction between men's trousers and women's skirt. Besides, various kinds of women's western-styled dress appeared in the 1960s. Second, they showed the dress culture that reflected past social aspects. Many aspects were included to reconstruct old and worn clothes due to scarce resources after the Korean War, and cherishing clothes, buying fabric directly to making clothes, making clothes from dressmaking shop, and restrictions on imported goods and luxury items. Third, the study also examined the social norms for fashion. It contained negative perspectives on women wearing pants, short skirts, and new hair styles (like perms) from western culture as well as lipstick.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.120-137
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• 2013

Nowadays, due to the increase of the aging population and the decreased size of the traditional nuclear family, pet dogs are considered to be important member of the family. The pet industry has been growing every year; subsequently, is essential to develop practical patterns and designs which are appropriate for the structure and movement of pet dogs. However, studies for developing a new form of pet dog's wear patterns and designs are limited. This study develops an all-in-one pattern which is based on pet dog's size, designs pet dog's wear items based on all-in-one patterns, and provides support to the manufacture of pet dog's wear. The results are as follow: 1) An analysis for the categories and design characteristics of all-in-one pet dog's wear according to the research from the online pet dog's wear shopping sites is provided. Eight categories are classified as follows: rompers, body suit, coveralls, training suit, special clothing, overalls, rain coat, and hanbok. 2) The production of all-in-one pet dog's wear basic pattern based on the basic bodice pattern from the prior studies and the manufacturer's patterns are being displayed. 3) Developments of the patterns and designs for eight all-in-one clothing consider the design characteristics and the situations. 4) Developments of the previous eight items illustrate the results of this research.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.17-29
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• 2016

Though the po as the basic apparel of the Joseon Dynasty period was various in kind as it was worn by people of different times, places, duties and statuses. it was unified as Juui with apparel reform at the late Joseon Dynasty. Though people of today have good feelings about hanbok, they rarely wear it because of its uncomfortable wearing sensation and the fastidious care after its use. However, efforts should be made to develop designs and to improve its use convenience through the study on the Korean traditional clothing now that overseas examples exist in which other countries' traditional clothing was successfully popularized. In this regard, targeting the children in their preschool ages when their socialization arises along with their physical development that have great influence on their adulthood, this study aims to suggest a design of overcoats that combines the various characteristics of the po in Joseon Dynasty period with those of the modern children's overcoats so that they might have positive attitudes towards Korean traditional clothes, and to contribute to its popularization. The study applied the characteristics of po to the design of children's overcoats so that children and their parents could choose to wear them with little repulsion. In this way, it attempted to resolve the inconveniences of the Korean traditional clothes and make the general public have positive perception about them. It is expected that the continuous development of the design that combines the Korean traditional clothes and children's clothes will contribute to the popularization of the Korean traditional clothes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.131-142
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• 2009

In response to the need of developing children's wear design using traditional elements, this study purposed to develop fashion designs emphasizing contemporary images based on the symbolism and formativeness of traditional dresses. For this study, we reviewed the definitions and symbolism of traditional colors and traditional patterns using previous research, and classified them according to formative shape. In addition, this study made three pieces of dress and developed unique designs by applying the traditional patterns and elements of Korean traditional dress styles. The research methods were as follows. First, we examined the images of Korean traditional colors and classified the symbols and meanings of the colors. Second, we identified the types of patterns, and classified them into shapes and symbols. Third, we designed and made actual works by applying traditional patterns. Based on the theoretical studies as presented above, we developed contemporary casual hanbok designs for children by applying symbolic and formative traditional patterns and using DTP (digital textile printing).

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.44-63
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the process to manufacture costume design of main female characters of TV historical drama and suggest the costume, which is developed with contemporary taste. As study methods, the literature study using books and theses concerning costume, fine art, culture and history were used for theoretical background and the empirical study method manufacturing actual costume on the basis of literature and relic were used for dress manufacture. The study results were as follows. The costume was decided by researching historical investigation material on the basis of synopsis, grasping director's basic intention, setting design direction, preparing design map of each character, selecting style, detail, fabric and color, manufacturing sample and performing camera test. The design concept of was Modern & Chic & Clean, short & fitted chogori, chima with wide & abundant cocoon silhouette, clean & bright colors and 100% silk fabric. For the design discrimination of royal semi-formal costume, color was used to symbolize character and pattern was used to symbolize social status. In addition, detail change was adopted depending on the body shape of actor and there was almost no design discrimination in silhouette and fabric. Petticoat of the west, modernization of transitional pattern and change of detail were adopted as design elements to add contemporary taste.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.6
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• pp.924-942
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• 2018

This study is to understand the symbolism and meaning of Yeomim in Korean traditional clothing. Throughout the study, literature research and analysis have been conducted along with empirical studies. The results of the study are as follows. First, there are three types of Yeomim for Korean clothing. Various methods of Yeomim use different materials for tying clothes such as straps and buttons. Second, when we investigate how Yeomim of Korean clothing has evolved, left and right type of Yeomim had coexisted in ancient times and Dae had been used mainly to tie clothes. The Yeomim method has used various materials since the Goryeo Dynasty. During the Joseon Dynasty, right type Yeomim dominated with majority using Goreum. Third, Hanbok has consistently evolved with a unique bonding style that uses rectangular strap for Yeomim, from the ancient times. The particular Yeomim method of twisting a rectangular strap represents the circularity of space. In addition, Yeomim with a strap is characterized by the beauty of how its form can be highly flexible depending on the human body or location of Yeomim, which corresponds to an unbalanced and asymmetrical natural beauty unique to Korea.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.766-777
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• 2012

The 13 genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(by Stewart Culin 1858~1929)" were used to study the late $19^{th}$ century's basic costumes and Games style in Korea. The people who appear in the paintings are 26 adult males, 2 minor males, 2 adult females and 3 kisaengs. Typical men wore 'Jeogori' which had various colors and white linings with a reached hip line, and knotted with a 'go-rum' on the right side. They also wore, white colored 'Baji' with colorful sash that were knot below knee or ankle together with 'Hang-jun' or 'Daenim'. They wore 'Beoseon'. Some men wore 'Po' whose colors were blue, green, indigo, white. The general women wore 'Jeogori' in deep green and light pink, indigo, green, red, and they matched with colors for 'Kit' and, 'Go-rum', 'Kut-dong' and its 'Go-rum' was short and narrow. It was so fit and short with narrow sleeve. It had 'Dunggun-kit'(round head collar) with white 'Dong-jung' and so it fit at neck. They wore 'Chi-ma' whose color was red, light green, or light indigo. It contrasted with 'Jeogori'. The width of 'Chi-ma' was big enough. Then white inner slacks came out under the skirt. Traditional Korean games can be classified according to age and gender. Then the games can be further classified into three categories : men's games, women's games, and games for all. The games for adult are an archery practice, hunting, shovel work with a karae, making a bow, drawing Jongkung-chart, Korean chess, playing paduk, and the Korean card game. A swing is a game for women. Games for both men and women are dice play, and domino game. Games for both adult and minor males are sledge, and tightrope walking. Through genre paintings in the $19^{th}$ century, I reached a conclusion that basic costumes are similar to 'Hanbok' at the present time and the method of wearing them has not changed much. It appears that the originality of traditional costumes has been maintained.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.859-879
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• 2004

As a result of research, the characteristics of the general costumes from the king Young-Cho period to the king Jung-Cho period in Genre Paintings of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang follows. First, the typical man wore his hair in a topknot(sangtu), and put on 'Bung-gu-ji', 'Lip', or a scarf on his head. The length of the 'Jeogori'(Korean traditional jacket) was long enough to cover the waist. Dress for work had side slits, and had half length sleeve Jeogori, and short pants looked like 'Jam-bang-i'. They went barefoot and wore 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Dress for outdoor was 'Po' that knot at front of chest by band. 'Baji'(slacks) were with knot below knee, worn 'Hang-jun'(ankle band) and the width of slacks was suitable. They were 'Beoseon'(Korean traditional socks) and shoes. Second those in the upperc1ass and those in the military put on 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Sa-bang-gan', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-geon' on their head on a topknot. Most of them wore 'So-chang-i', 'Jung-chi-mag' or 'Do-po'. The length of Jeogori covered the waist or the hip and were tied with 'Go-rum'(ribbon). Baji was tied with Hang-jun and 'Dae-nim'. The waist of the slacks were tied with a dark colored waist-band and folded down their waist of slacks. They wore white color Beoseon and 'Hye' or dark color leather shoes. They wore 'Sup'(assistant of arm) for bow. It showed the lifestyle of the 18C with fan, 'Be-ru', 'Mug', 'Yun-jug', teacup, pot, etc. Third, child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line, Git of Jeogori was 'Dunggurai-Kit'(shape of round) and other style Jeogori, which reached the hip line, had side-slit. Baji was tied with Dae-nim, and the width of the slacks is suitable. They hang 'Yum-nang'(Pocket). Final, most women worked outdoors wearing their hair in a high twisted style, or covered it with scarf. They wore Jeogori and 'Chima'(Korean traditional skirts), Bagi. They folded up the sleeves of the Jeogori. And they folded the 'Jambang-i-styled' pants to just above the knees, fastening at the waist. When they wore skirts, they also wore underpants under the skirt that went down to the knees. Most of them went barefoot and wore straw shoes, Jipsin. Through genre paintings, we can understand the ways and forms of our ancestor's clothing. And with our understanding, interest, and passion, we can be familiar with Hanbok in our daily life by succeeding and creating its peculiar style. And then we can promote the globalization of Hanbok.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1112-1128
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to develop royal costume design with contemporary taste depending on the character of hero, Lee San, and time flow of TV historical drama and research design discrimination and creative expression. As study methods, the literature study using books and theses concerning costume, fine art, culture and history were used for theoretical background and the empirical study method manufacturing actual costume on the basis of literature and relic were used for dress manufacture. The design concept of costume was modern & chic & clean. The costume was designed through straight silhouette, clean & bright colors excluding prime colors, style transformed to permanent straight pleats on the basis of chulik, 100% silk material focusing on high quality and pattern & decoration of the age of Three Kingdoms. As results, the designs of princess' official rob, day dress and chulik, and emperor's official robe, chulik, military dress and chun-dam-bok were developed. The design discrimination depending on social status change. In the period of princess, black, white, silver and blue were used but in the period of emperor, red, gold and black were used. It was expressed through dragon pattern and extended length used in cloth. The design discrimination depending on character change was visualized through color. Although it is not consistent with historical investigation, contemporary fashion design elements were added to royal costume through color contrast of black & white, permanent straight pleats, velcore, wristlet, extended length and layered-look.