• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.39-54
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• 1987

One's Clothing Satisfaction, has a great influence on his role behavior in a society. Especially, as for the teacher's and the professors whose role is teaching, it can not be too emphaszed. Above all, high school girls and college women are the most likely to be influenced by their teachers' clothing behavior, to whom they pay their respect in every way. From this point of view, this study was aimed at explaining, the correlation between the teachers/professors' clothing behaviors and the learning efficiency. On clothing behaviors assessed 30 items related with the learning efficiency, selected from the instruments of preceding studies, and modified by the factors dealing with modesty, color, and design. The questionnaires were composed of two major categories: those for students and for teachers/progessors. The subjects of this study were included students and teachers/professors of high school and universities in Seoul. The data were analyzed statically by mean, standard Deviation, and F-test. The results of this study were summerized as follows; 1. The clothing behaviors of the teachers/professors influenced on the learning efficiency. Namely teachers' clothing satisfaction is in direct proportion to them teaching efficiency and students' learning efficiency. 2. Among the clothing behavior variables, modesty had a great influence on the learning efficiency, especially as for that of teachers more than professors. 3. The influence of the teachers'/professors' clothing behaviors on the learning efficiency showed no significance between high school girls and college women, but some significance between the grades of collegians. 4. As for the teachers'/professors' clothing behavior, male teachers/professors gave priority to design and female teachers/professors to modesty, color showed no significance between them irrespective of age. 5. As for the clothing behavior variabels, both the teachers/professors and the students showed some significance. In class the teachers/professors highly responded to their own clothing behaviors than the students. 6. According to priority the most favorable clothing colors for male teachers/professors are navy blue, gray, indigo blue, and black, and the most disgusting ones red, mud yellow, violet, pink, and green. The most favorable clothing colors for female teachers/professors are beign, white, pale yellow, and black, and the most disgusting ones red, mud yellow, and yellow and yellow according to priority. It is that teachers/professors should wear modestly and in color harmony to invite the desirable students' will to study. Teachers'/professors' colorful appearance and heavy toilet bring about a drop in the students' will to study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.22
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• pp.159-176
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• 1994

This study's purpose is to find the ancient costume of the folk song's words on Dunhuang manuscripts in the background wass-carvings sculptures and several art works. Dunhuang had played the part of major route between ancient China and Europe. It is located on kam-suksong the west of China. 1. In the aspect of costume arrangement hair Styling is represented by Naegagyo, Wangyesa, Kyongburak, Bonkwyun, Pogurak, Chonsonja, Namgaja, Tongson-ga, Ojesa, Chanboja in Dunhuang manuscripts. tugue is sim-ilar to Sabyokkwanja in Naegagyo as of that time these kinds of Kwan-ja was very popular. It was told that emperor's wife concubine and maid of honor would wear kwnaja favorably. And the kinds of Tugeu is PuyongKwyunkye, Aangunkye, Chunkye from Kyuwanjon except Sangunkye, Ounkye in Dunhuangsa. 2. Jangdaegy is guoted from Kyuw-anjon -A series of the chinese history book-tells us about women's make-up . The narmes of make-up are Hongjang Unjan--g, Yiljang chwejang, Tam-ajang Murgjang, Sanagjang, Light-make up are referred in Naegagyo is included as packjang Besides we can find other make-up skills Huphwaro and Rujang from the Kaewonch onbon-wisa which was Yangkwibi's episodes. We can find the a corpus of song's words about cosmetic custom in Kor-ea. Which is 'Haecho' folk song in the souther-en costal regions 'Jinggum' folk song in Kim-hae regions and so on.... It's words is similar to Dunhuangsa in China. 3. Bichun inherited to China with India Bud-dism art in the middle of Dunhuang wall-pain-tings is one of the important Buddist saint. Sometimes it is painted with Giakchun Its arms of fly-dnacing in heaven with colored belt on body has almost the form of play on the musical instrument, We can see seasily the form in the painting of Buddist ser-mon. It was progressed and changed with the background of chinese traditional culture. When Dang's period came the color was chan-ged lighting dark blue has rhythmical and viv-id power of life. 4. Among the corpus of song's words which express the singers' system and rites of their tradition or habits. Dunhuang manuscripts des-cribes on behalf of the folk song's words in tra-ditional costume. This is following: (1) Naegagyo o sabyokwanja o Chyrasam o Rashang (2) Wangyesa o Sokryugun o Costume for fisher man (3) Bungajang of the chanboja o Ajang (4) Pongkwyun o Chongui (5) Tongsongs o Junofore (6) Namgaja o thin-Rasam (7) Yuchungnang o Hongsam o Sokryugun : The color of red costume (8) Kyongburak o Hongrasam o Sokryugun : Costume for charming woman Therefore traditional costume could be extracted according to the Dunhuang folk song's words out of culture such as learning rit-es three-obedience four-virtues and in-struction. As the same time it reflects ancient China's characteristics directly. I would endeavor to development for the history of the costume furher creative design and participat-ed in research activity with concerns forward continuously.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.12 s.148
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• pp.1535-1545
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• 2005

The study aimed firstly, to develop the women's bodysuit sleeve block construction method adopting the appropriate pattern reduction rates according to the fabric stretch property. Secondly, the details applied to the bodysuit sleeve block drafting (Dr the educational and industrial usage were proposed. For these, several distinguishing bodysuit sleeve pattern making methods(i.e. Joseph-Armstrong: T1, Shoben & Ward: T2, Esmod: T3 and Mixed Joseph-Armstrong: T4) were analyzed and divided into two categories that adopt 1) the equally (i.e., T1) and 2) the differently(i.e., T2, T3 & T4) distributed front and back armhole length measurements. Women's sleeve samples were made for the research using the same stretch fabric($50\%\;and\; 70\%$ in wale and course each) to the previous research. A group comprising 5 relevant experts evaluated the fit and comfort features of the samples. Experiments analyzed the appearance of sleeve samples focused on total 13 evaluation parts(including the front/side/back fit tolerance, sleeve centre line, sleeve length, appropriateness of the sleeve appearance balanced with the bodysuit and etc.): and performed the comfort test evaluating three kinds(vertical-front/vertical-side/ horizontal) of arm movements. The most appropriate bodysuit sleeve to fulfil the original aims of the study was suggested. The findings and suggestions throughout the study were: 1) the measurements and required reduction rates for the bodysuit sleeve block developed: outer sleeve length (with 1.0 RR), crown height(with 0.7 RR), front and back armhole lengths measured on the bodysuit blocks ($0\%$ ease amount), elbow width(0.9/0.95 RR), wrist girth measurements(from $12\%\;to\;18\%$ tolerances can be given to): and 2) the differently distributed front and back armhole length measurements resulted in the better fit and comfort through the research.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.6 s.165
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• pp.879-891
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• 2007

Forecasting is a critical task for fashion companies because of continuous change in fashion and long process lead-time. Therefore, it is of great importance for both scholars and companies to understand how forecasted fashion styles are accepted by consumers. This research aimed to investigate consumer acceptance of fashion styles in Korea. The study examined and compared oversea collections of women's wear to the street fashion in Korea for seven seasons from 02 s/s to 05 s/s. Information on oversea collections were obtained from the magazine, Fashion Show, and the street fashion information from Seoul Fashion Design Center. The results showed that overall trends presented in oversea collections have been well accepted, while acceptance of specific styles or items varied. During the period of this research, sporty style and feminine style were very strong in the street fashion. Many styles and items were modified and selectively accepted probably because of cultural differences and limitations of mass production. Some styles which were presented in oversea collections were not accepted in Korea, and at the same time some cases were observed only in the street fashion in Korea. The results of this study provide guidelines for Korean apparel companies in merchandise planning and empirical findings to deepen the understanding on Korean society with respect to fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.283-299
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• 1998

The present study is to analyze the dimensions of affective responses according to the types of appeal in underwear advertisements and to find out the influences of affective res-ponses on the attitudes toward advertisement and brands. The research has been made by normative-descriptive survey method with the sample of 654 consumers residing in Seoul and Incheon. The data gaathered was analyzed by the methods of means, standard deviation, ANOVA, factor analysis and regression. The result are as follows : 1. There are 4 dimensions of affective responses ; Emotional dimension, Negative dimen-sion, Upbeat-activation dimension and Sexual activation dimension. 2. Affective responses to the advertising were different according to the characteristics of the consumers. According to the consumer's sex, there are significant differences in each dimension of their affective responses. To the sex appeal advertisement, man show higher degree of affective responses in Emotional, Upbeat-activation and Sexual-activation dim-ensions, while women show higher degree of affective responses in Negative dimension. 3. In case of female consumers, there are significant differences in affective responses to the both appeal type of advertisements according to consumer's age. As the age is increasing. Emotional dimension and Sexual-activation dimension are increasing, but Negative dimension is decreasing in the Ads with sex appeal. In particular, the 19∼24s age group shows strong responses in the Emotional dimension, Upbeat-activation dimension and Sexual-activation dimension to Ads with sex appeal, while it shows the lowest affective responses in Negative dimension. It represents the 19-24s age group is the most positive one to the under-wear advertisements with sex appeal. Consequently, it is proved that the Ads with sex appeal focusing on this age group can be one of the most effective advertising plans. 4. The involvement gets higher, Upbeat-ac-tivation dimension and Sexual-activation dimension are increasing both in males and female groups. But Negative dimension is in-creasing in the female consumer group of low involvement. 5. The attitudes toward advertisements and brands are comparatively stronger in the advertisements using sex appeal type. Regardless of types of appeal in the advertisements, there is a significant difference in their attitudes tow-ard Ads between male and female consumer groups. When Ads are sexual, attitudes toward Ads and Brands are stronger in the female consumer group. But males consumers show com-paratively strong attitudes toward the advertis-ements and brands in both types of appeal. 6. The age of consumers doesn't make any significant difference in their attitudes toward advertisements and brands in both types of appeal. 7. According to the involvement level of the consumers, there are significant differences in their attitudes toward advertisements. In the groups of low involvement, the female consumers show more favorite attitudes toward the advertisements with sex appeal, while the male group show more favorite attitudes toward the non-sex appeal advertisement. But there is no significant difference in consumer's attitude toward brands according to the types of appeal of the advertisement. 8. The affective responses of the consumers caused by the underwear advertisements have a respectable influence on their attitudes toward the advertisements and brands. This research represents that the advertisers should try to arise consumer's positive affective responses such as pleasant, happy, cheerful and warm-hearted emotions by the advertisements. Based on the above results of the research, it can be said that the consumer's affective responses have a strong effect not only on their attitudes toward adver-tisements but on those toward attitude toward the brands.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.3
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• pp.133-148
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• 2017

The purpose of this paper is to develop waist coat designs that can be worn in the present day by researching design techniques and traditional waist coat forms shown on Korean patchworks called 'Jokakbo', which was commonly used in our traditional culture. By selecting patchwork as the primary motive in particular. The Bojaki, also known as deungguhli or baeguhli(背巨里), gives off a natural and vibrant color sensation. A new design that could be practically worn with modern clothing was developed by sufficiently reflecting this color sensation as well as the aesthetic quality of its geometric shape. On the basis of theoretical consideration of traditional cloth and vest, total of 7 points were designed and produced. These works contain diverse application of the traditional Bojaki and vest. The design of the Bojaki grants rhythmic sense to the side where diverse colors and formative patterns shown on the cloth can be seen as monotonous. The entire side opening of the traditional waistcoat can cover multiple sizes. Depending on the movement, the front and back naturally spreads. The vest can also be worn in layers or used as a cotton quilt depending on the season. And after minimal design alterations, it will be possible to wear the vest with diverse modern clothing due to its straight line and form.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.121-133
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• 2017

This study investigates the design relation between shoulder line and sleeve line for designing bulky silhouettes as well as examines the trend sensitivity and design difference of each city through a comparison of the four cities collection (Paris, Milan, London, and New York). The results are as follows. In the four major fashion capitals, the rates of all-season coats were higher in 2014/15 F/W than those in the 2013/14 F/W season. At the 2014/15 F/W season, the proportion of the bulky silhouette coat, (including the fur and cape coat) increased and confirmed the bulky silhouette fashion trend. Second, an examining of the proportion of bulky silhouette coats manufactured by leading brands in major cities, indicated that London brands readily followed the trend of bulky silhouette coats when compared to other cities. This trend was also accepted by most brands in New York. Most brands in London and New York are highly compliant with the latest fashion trends. Third, the drop shoulder design was mostly presented in the shoulder pit of the bulky coat. In case of the sleeve, the shape of the jar was kept wide at the elbow line and made narrower toward the beak in most bulky silhouette coats. The importance of shoulder and sleeve design is clearly highlighted in the bulky silhouette coat. Fourth, detail design trends were different according to type of sleeve and shoulder fit. The results show the relationship between shoulder and sleeve design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.103-116
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• 2010

Recently, the art of the Latin America Culture is being actively introduced into our country. Many concepts in the fashion field contain Latin American culture and their influence is growing. This present study, based on a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture, is an attempt to expand the expression of fashion design and explore the use of works of art in fashion. The case study is on Frida Kahlo (1907~1954), who was a Mexican woman painter who gives us some inspiration in contemporary fashion design. The scope of this case study investigates the Haute couture and the Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2009 which were greatly influenced by Frida Kahlo and analyzes through the formative elements of dress, color, form, pattern and material. Frida Kahlo was a painter whose composition of surrealism held the world of life and death, pain and pleasure, love and parting, thought and freedom, and tradition and modern, etc. As a design inspiration, her influence reaches into accessories, and hairstyles, as well as the Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter. This current study for the correct understanding of the new culture and the introduction of art into the fashion design might be helpful in making fashion a work of art and in extending the expression of the fashion design concept which is based on commercial art.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.958-968
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to clarify the different mechanical properties of fabrics among the theme groups classified by fashion fabric trend. This study can be useful for fabric marketers and planners to design new products. In order to carry out this study, the fabric samples of representative theme for‘2002/03 F/W fashion fabric trend were collected from a fashion company and were measured to analyze the mechanical properties, hand value(H.V) and total hand value(T.H.V) by KES-FB System. The results were as follows. 1. The theme-A of‘Luxury, Elegance’was consisted of wool, rayon and PET and had a lower B, 2HB of bending properties and a lower G and 2HG5 of shear properties. The theme-B of‘Technical, Functional’was consisted of synthetic fibers such as PET, PA, PU and elastic fiber and had a higher MIU and a lower MMD, SMD of surface properties. The theme-C of‘Vintage, Aged’was consisted of mostly cotton and had the highest B and 2HB. The theme-D of‘Fancy, Airy’was consisted of mostly woolen wool, polyacryl and polyamide and had a high MMD and SMD of surface properties and a high LC and RC of compression properties. 2. As the results of analyzing H.V and T.H.V through KES-FB system, the theme-A showed a higher Smoothness and lower Stiffness. The theme-B had a lower Smoothness, Fullness, Soft feeling and T.H.V and the theme-C had the highest Stiffness. The theme-D showed the highest Fullness and Soft Feeling but the lowest Stiffness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.29-44
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• 2014

This thesis aims to compare the representative costume patterns of the Chinese Qing dynasty and contemporary $18^{th}$ century French costumes. As a research method, qualitative research was performed to compare and analyze the patterns of the flowers, the birds and pagoda shown in Qing dynasty and France. The results are as follows: The Chinese flower patterns used the embroidery technique for 3-step gradation colors to decorate flowers with less than 10 petals. Also, the forms of the flowers were large and simple in China. The flower patterns of the 18th century France is more similar to those of Qing dynasty than to the traditional French flower patterns. They used the drawing technique for the gradation colors and completed the work by embroidery. In the case of bird patterns, the crane on menswear, and the phoenix on women's wear were applied to signify the symbolic feature of the Chinese symbolism. On the other hand, those in France were used solely for the division of the gender. As a result the clear form of the birds in China contrasted with the unclear forms of birds in France. During the influx of mandarine square to France from China, the application of crane and phoenix according to gender seems to be stressed emphatically without considering their symbolic meaning. In light of the pagoda pattern, Qing dynasty showed interest only in the form of pagoda, denoting the simple two-tier structure without detailed description. Whereas in France, the pagodas were three or four tiers, with gorgeous colors and much more detail than those of Qing dynasty. In conclusion, the main determinants of influences on the patterns of France from China would be forms, colors, constructions and technique of embroidery, along with the disregard for symbolic significance.