• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.137-154
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women's status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1910's, ideal beauty has changed to H-style. In other words, the outer garment has confined the lower part of the body with plain H-type Hobble silhouette to express plump bust, somewhat slim waist, and small hips, As the underwears, cylindrical corsets which fasten from under the bust down to lap, brassiere which are helpful for plump bust, and artificial busts were worn. In 1920's, outer garment were Straight box silhouette style which were cut as tubular without dart, and the underwears were corselets which have been tubular from the bust to hip and the tubular chemi-knickers. The former corsets which had been hard-boned and been fastened with strings have been replaced by the hook closure due to the development of elastic joining method. In 1930's, women pursued perfect body showing the line of bust, waist, and hip. In order to express elegant beauty of female of Slim and long silhouette, Doter and underwear have been cut with bias and gore, and soft and flexible materials were flowed along the body. World war II in 1940's has made the women as social. Ideal beauty has changed to Short straight box silhouette which no more shows body line. Outer and underwears were simple and Practical style. In 1950's, ideal beauty was well-matured, elegant Women which were represented by round shoulder, conical breast, tiny waist and round hip. Outer garment showed Hourglass silhouette representing the body-tight suits with round shoulder pad and the wide flare skirts. As the underwears, conical brassiere by top circular stitch were preferred for plump and bulged bust and tight corsets for tiny waist and magnificent petticoats were worn.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.113-126
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• 2000

The purpose of the study was to investigate the level of latest fashion adoption of men's wear manufacturers and differences in the level of fashion adoption according to characteristics of brands and merchandise. Thus, this study was to be an exploratory study to examine the trends in fashion adoption of men's wear manufacturers. The questionnaire consisted of questions on 7 elements of fashion adoption and characteristics of men's wear manufacturers and their merchandise. The subjects were to evaluate their level of fashion adoption and rated on 5 point Likert-type scales of 7 elements. For the survey, the subjects were 100 employees (62 merchandisers, and 24 designers, etc.) who are employed by men’s wear manufacturers which have national brands, designer brands, license brands, import brands or private brands. The SAS PC+ package was used to calculate factor analysis, mean, t-test, ANOVA, Duncan's test, and Tukey's test. The results from the study were as follows: 1) The elements of fashion adoption of men's wear manufacturers were divided into 4 factors (clolr/fabric, silhouette/fashion image, detail/item coordination, accessories) which explained 83.61% of the whole of factors. 2) The highest score of mean of fashion adoption factors was fabric/color, but the lowest was accessory factor. 3) There were significant positive correlations between fashion adoption factors except between fabric/color and accessories. 4) There were significant differences in the level of fashion adoption according to types of brands and ages of target consumers. 5) There were significant differences in the level of fashion adoption according to the categories of apparel (suits vs. casual clothing) and types of suits and casual wear.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.98-113
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• 2013

This study is an attempt to analyze the daily life of the Western-yearning Seoul citizens and the inflow of the Western culture into certain social classes. The customs of the characters in the film are studied to illustrate the process of deconstruction of Korean traditional clothes due to the Western influence. The combined application of the Western and Korean styles is also observed. All this study leads to the sense of homogeneity of the times and the conformity to the culture the Korean women shared, which boils down to the social identity of the Korean women who sought an escape from the men-centered social structure by displaying their competence in the field of global modern fashion. As Seonyeong Oh, the main character of the film, , was wearing in the movie the Korean traditional dress, socks, rubber shoes, and then a western-style coat, it well shows that in 1950's, the traditional dress and ornaments were mixed with Western styles. In time, men's wear were completely changed from the traditional Korean clothes to suits, while women's could not break off from the traditional clothes and become westernized, which indicates that the men-centered conservative ideas to keep women within the feudal regime of the society remained. The military look of Seonyeong Oh while she was acting in the society was a symbol of anti-bias against women and anti-convention as well as the will of freedom as an independent woman. Besides, the modern girls would wear clothes of military fashion, Dior's trapeze line, and knit styles flattering the figures. All these well show their desires to embrace Western cultures, especially their dress fashions as well as manners as so-called enlightened ladies. All these elements show that the director was trying to represent the progress of the drama, characters, and psychological states by means of the dress and ornaments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.9
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• pp.1442-1453
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• 2010

This study targets adult females and shows the analysis of physical images affecting clothing behavior, satisfaction or dissatisfaction of ready-made clothes, favorite ready-made clothes design, and weight control as well as the result of demographic characteristic influencing clothing behavior. An individual satisfied with their body prefers bright colors and shiny clothes, on the other hand, an individual who is dissatisfied with their body do not like ready-made clothes and favor loose suits. This study shows that individuals not satisfied with their body are afraid of becoming fat and are following a weight control program. The analysis explains that women (who care for their appearance well) pursue aestheticism, superiority, and are more satisfied with ready-made clothes with casual, feminine, and fancy motifs. It also shows that women who have no confidence in their body follow feminine modesty; on the contrary, those who are confident of their body are satisfied with ready-made dresses and prefer a sexy image. As a result, those who do not care about their looks seek feminine modesty, functionality, and easy-management.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.20
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• pp.179-190
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• 1993

In the history of fashion, few designers have interpreted the background of the time more accurately and energetically than did Elsa Schiaparelli. She understood the new role of women and believed clothes should suit one's life style. Schiaparelli begun with sportswear, later included suits and dresses. She produced them of great elegance and extreme chic. Simplicity of line was the key to her distinctive and elegant silhouette. Even her simplest designs had elegance. Her concept of clothes was architectual : the more the plane of the body were respected, the more the garment acquired vitality. Schiaparelli combined her knowledge, timing, and sense of daring in the presentation of her designs, colors, fabrics, and embroideries. For V, the garment was not only the medium for the couturier's craft but also the place for artistic expression. Her self-conscious equation of designer's objectives with that of artist is at the heart of her work. Schiaparelli's work is an expression of desire, not merely of design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.117-124
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• 2008

People have used the manner of expression "clothing" to find out and to symbolize the styles that suits one's roles, behaviors or altitudes. Moreover, the symbolic meaning of clothing is important as it reflects the culture of a time period as well at the life style of each classes of society. In the aspect in which clothing is critical data to re-examine a time period as to trace history, clothing is significant for understanding the characteristics of each time periods, and by focusing on women's wedding dress, a costume worn for one of the most essential ceremonies in one's life, this article studies how trends of each period have been symbolized through clothing. Thus, this study aims to set a foundation to understand the cultural features of a time period through the wedding ceremony. The article inquires about the hwalot to also understand its meaning during the period of its existence, and develops designs for modern wedding dresses for women. I. The wedding dress of women expressed the following meanings by using shapes, colors and patterns of the hwalot. 1) The formative art of hwalot is the ultimate beauty. 2) The wedding dress of women emphasized aesthetics. 3) The symbols praying for harmony between red and indigo, or the union of yin and yang indicates that marriage had been considered as a precious ceremony-an important matter of life. 4) The meaning of good auspice such as health, longevity, immortality, good luck and stability had been frequently used since people sought for new and eternal life. 5) The symbols of wealth and fame have been frequently used by those pursuing a wealthy life. 6) Marriage was considered as a union of families, and not a union of two individuals. II. This article presents two types of modern wedding dresses.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.105-115
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• 2012

This research investigated the influences of structural characteristics such as fabrics, mechanical properties, and subjective sensory images on the off-line and on-line preferences to women's spring/summer suits fabrics to extract the most effective factor towards preference as well as analyze the preferential off-line and on-line differences to predict the exact texture image on-line. Objective evaluations were done for the measurement of the mechanical properties of fabrics using Kawabata's Evaluation System and subjective evaluations were done with 109 female subjects who value the off-line and on-line sensory image of suit fabrics. For statistical analysis, factor analysis, cluster analysis, t-test, ANOVA, and regression were used. The results were as follows. The preference scores on-line were generally higher than those off-line. For the structural characteristics of fabrics, differences of thickness were observed according to preference clusters, and the preference increased as thickness was lowered off-line and on-line. For mechanical properties, WC influenced off-line and on-line preferences. Fabrics with low compression energy were preferred; however, the effect of SMD was observed off-line only. In subjective sensory images, the 'smoothness' image influenced off-line and on-line preferences the most. All sensory images influenced the off-line preferences; however, the effects of 'flexibility' and 'weight' were not shown on-line.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.142-156
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• 1996

The purposes of this study were to examine the reason, = of clothing discard and to investigate the influences of demographic and clothing variables on the clothing discard behavior Data were collected from 610 women who lived in Seoul and Kwangjoo. By means of factor analysis, 6 general factors of clothing discard reason.; were extracted The 6 factors were named as dissatisfaction with appropriateness, physically worn out, dissatisfaction with clothing quality, fashion change, boredom, inconvinience. Among the five clothing items (suits or one pieces, jackets, jumpers, shirts or blouses, skirts or pants), there existed differences in the reason factors of clothing discard The relationships between clothing discard behavior (reason factors of clothing discard, peviods of clothing utilization) and variables like user's age, degrees of satisfaction with clothing, clothing items were also examined. There existed significant differences among the age groups and the groups classified by clothing satisfaction degrees in the reason factors of clothing discard and in the Periods of clothing utilization. Periods of clothing utilization were also differed by the clothing items. As user's a age grew older, periods of clothing utilization increased and the rates of clothing discard because of dissatisfaction with appropriateness, and dissatisfaction with clothing quality, boredom, inconvinience factors were decreased. As the degrees of satisfaction with clothes increased, the periods of clothing utilization also increased and the rates of clothing discard because of dissatisfaction with appropriateness, and dissatisfaction with clothing quality, inconvinience factors decreased. And the rates of clothing discard because of physically worn out factor increased.

• Journal of Korea Multimedia Society
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• v.25 no.8
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• pp.999-1006
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• 2022

The use of appropriate fonts is not only an aesthetic point of view, but also a factor influencing the reinforcement of meaning. However, it is a difficult process and wastes a lot of time for general users to choose a font that suits their needs and emotions. Therefore, in this study, keywords and fonts to be used in the experiment were selected for emotion-based font recommendation, and keyword values for each font were calculated through an experiment to check the correlation between keywords and fonts. Using the experimental results, a prototype of a keyword-based font recommendation system was designed and the possibility of the system was tested. As a result of the usability evaluation of the font recommendation system prototype, it received a positive evaluation compared to the existing font search system, but the number of fonts was limited and users had difficulties in the process of associating keywords suitable for their desired situation. Therefore, we plan to expand the number of fonts and conduct follow-up research to automatically recommend fonts suitable for the user's situation without selecting keywords.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.6
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• pp.51-69
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to classify the body shapes. exclusive of size and corpulence factors of more than 60-year old elderly women by distinctions, and to investigate the visual effects of combination of ensemble suit details. For the body shape classification, the factor analysis and cluster analysis were performed : the mean value difference of numeral values for classified types were tested by ANOVA : and the follow-up test was conducted by the Duncan's multiple ranged test. The data analysis for visual effects evaluated by a multiple ranking test was analysed by mean. paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple ranged test. The results are summarized as follows : 1. The followings are the types of body shape according to the shape factors of the front line of body for elderly women. The distinctions of the front li e of elderly women's body could be presumed; that was, Body typeⅠ was a comparatively well-balanced body type, Body type Ⅱ was close to an average body type. and Body type In was a severely corpulent body type. 2. The followings are the results on the physical visual effects inducing the constituents of clothing type. 1) The neckline·collar types of a jacket have a great influence on the visual effects of the upper body, and orderly. the tailored collar. soutien collar, and round neckline had positive influence on the visual effects in the upper body. 2) The pleat types of one-piece dress had positive influence on the visual effects in the lower body in the order of gored type, pleats type, and gathered type. Also. the balance in the lower body had more influence on the overall balance of the clothing compared to the constituents of clothing type such as neckline collar type or opening line. 3) It showed that whether there is the front opening line of a jacket influenced on the visual effects of all categories.