• Title/Summary/Keyword: women's jacket

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A Study on the Wearing Occasions of the Royal Attire in Joseon Dynasty through the Regular rule of Sang-uiwon ("상방정례로" 보는 조선왕실의 복식구조 - 착용사례를 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Soh-Hyeon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.3
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    • pp.149-162
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    • 2008
  • The Regular rule of Sang-uiwon served as a manual of Royal Attires. According to the procedures, like as making letters about the affairs, consulting, and permission, Royal ceremonial attire was made and presented to the royal family. The materials for the Royal informal dress were presented in accordance with usual tributes. There was no difference in informal dress between the royal family and noble class. But the name of items was different such as Goa du[man's jacket], Go ui[woman's jacket], etc. The royal family continued to wear old days dress as akjurm and noui, which were not worn by common people any more, as a means of differentiating clothes. Bub-bok, which was designed only for key figures of the royal family such as the king, crown prince, queen, and crown princess, was the best status symbol. Because of its highly limited example of wearing, bub-bok was the authority of the wearer itself; with only difference in color, pattern, and material depending on social status. Yong-po is the most frequently worn by the Royal men. Yong-po worn with jong-lip served as yung-bok or gun-bok, and iksun-gwan functioned as sang-bok. Royal Attire for men was clearly divided into Yong-po as sang-bok, bub-bok as myun-bok and gangsa-po, while jeok-ui for women functioned as both sang-bok and bub-bok. However, the use of jeok-ui was defined by differentiate sang-bok from bub-bok like as the pattern of Hyung-bae, number of embroidered round badges, shoes and ornaments.

A Study on the Changes of Social Meaning of Androgynous Image in Fashion Magazine(I) -Focused Fashion Item and Adornment- (패션잡지에 나타난 양성이미지의 사회적 의미변화에 관한 연구(I) -의복품목과 장식을 중심으로-)

  • 유홍식;황선진
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.11 no.6
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    • pp.852-866
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    • 2003
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze how the women's fashion with the androgynous image(fashion item, adornment) which has appeared on our specialized fashion magazine from 1986 through 2000. As a result of this study I drew the following conclusion. First, masculine image led the market in the first stage of mid 1980 in a men's wear oriented trend that the woman wear masculine style jacket, pants and blouse. In hair style, the short hair of the masculine image was used habitually but the make-up was tend to be made heavily. The ambivalence of the sex was also showed up by expressing the feminine image on the masculine image using the accessories like necklace, earing and bracelet. Second, unlike the first stage, it showed that more and more feminine image was accepted in the second stage of early 1990. The jacket, blouse and pants were rooted as the basic item in women's fashion. The feminine style of long hair and natural make-up with the androgynous image were increased. Third, in the third stage of the late 1990, the fashion items to the comfortable dress of light weight as the life style pursuits the activity and convenience. The feminine image were appeared naturally with a long hair style and natural make-up with the androgynous image. The remarkable features in the fashion accessories were that boots and low shoes were preferred by the increase of the masculine image shoes and the sneakers were seen a lot by the effect of the sports boom.

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A Study on the Types and Characteristics of Women's Costume Excavated in the Early Joseon Dynasty (조선전기 출토 여성복식의 유형과 특징에 관한 연구)

  • Jeong, Ju Ran;Kim, Yong Mun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.67 no.1
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    • pp.147-168
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    • 2017
  • This study examines the types and characteristics of women's garments excavated in the early Joseon Dynasty before 1592. The study sorts out headgear, jacket, skirt and trousers, and coats from the historical texts in the early Joseon Dynasty and excavated women's wears in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and analyzes their textiles and patterns. The Joseon women's garments convey several features. They are wide across the chest and square shaped collar with virtually straight sleeves. While their breast-ties are extremely little for the size of clothes, they do not have any inner-tie. They have broad and short dongjeongs which seem to be hard to be adjusted. There are a variety of headgear. Jang-Jeogori slit down in both sides. The Jeogori after the seventeenth century transformed a more practical form of a fitting dress to an individual body in comparison with the sixteenth jeogori. It is identified that the fabrics in the early Joseon period were woven more diversely and colorfully than the late Joseon period. Most of the excavated fabrics in the sixteenth century were in silk. Materials for adornments before 1592 were not much diverse and their designs mostly contained patterns of lotus flowers, patterns of cloud and treasures with oblique lines. The colors are mainly brown, navy and green. The Joseon women's clothes were comprised of skirts with folded hem, coat with round collars, wide leg pants, Jangot, long-sleeved coat with folding collars, and quadrangular pieces of cloth in various sizes, or mu and so forth. Joseon women's clothes, like men's wears, partake of active functions in their headgears, wide leg pants, styles in short front and long back, and coat with round collars.

A Study of People's Lives and Traditional Costumes in Goryeo Dynasty (고려시대 사람들의 삶과 전통의상에 대한 고찰)

  • Choi Kyu-Seong
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.12 no.6 s.53
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    • pp.1060-1069
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    • 2004
  • We can study and judge the costumes of the Three Kingdom period through an ancient tomb murals and various burial mound(clay) figures, however, it is quite difficult to search for costumes of the Goryeo period ($960{\sim}1392$), because dresses from this era were rarely found, related antiquities are limited and hard to survive. This is the reason why people say that the Goryeo Dynasty is the period of undiscovered era for its history of costumes in Korea. Fortunately, these days, there are various kinds of buddhist statues discovered with its burial accessories such as costumes and dyed fabrics of the Goryeo era. Through these, we can glimpse through the Goryeo cloths and develop our researches on this field. In addition, a man called Seo Geung(서긍, the Chinese scholar Xu Jing) wrote a book in the 12th century about peoples lives in Goryeo and in this book, there are few documents about the people's costumes which help us to understand the period's traditional dresses. In this paper, we will look for the traditional costumes which were formed and developed through people's lives in Goryeo, using remains from various burial accessories in buddhist statues as well as the documents related to the costumes written in ${\ll}$Goryeosa 고려사${\gg}$. Moreover, costumes of a period usually developed and influenced by the atmosphere of people's lives both economically and mentally, therefore, in this study, we will especially focus on the dresses of the bureaucratic officials and their wives, who led comfortable lives and latitude of mind. Through the records, like Silla, Goryeo exported Sehjeo(세저) and Sehjoongmapo(세중마포) to China. And we found out that Silla's skillful weaving techniques of hemp and ramie cloths were succeeded to Goryeo. According to above facts, Goryeo people made clothes with various kinds of fabrics such as, different sorts of silks, ramie, hemp cloths and cottons. They also have very skillful manufacturing techniques for certain textiles. Their official robes were generally influenced by Tang and Song Dynasty, but, like ordinary people, we found out that the government officials also wore baji(pants) and a jeogor(jacket), which were traditional costumes since the Unified Silla Kingdom with various coats. Especially, women's costumes such as jeoksam(unlined summer jacket) and hansam(한삼), which are sort of jeogori(jacket), baji(pants) and chima(skirts) were made of various kinds of silks and ramie cloths, that were generated from the Goguryeo Kingdom, with jikryeongpo(a long jacket and striped skirt).

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Development of Functional Maternity Wear for Working Women (직장 여성을 위한 기능적인 임부복 개발)

  • Suh, Chu-Yeon;Park, Soon-Jee;Lee, Hee-Jung
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.45 no.9
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    • pp.37-52
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    • 2007
  • This research developed maternity wear designed with a focus on the essential functions necessary for working women and adaptable to their body changes during pregnancy. Through Martin's anthropometry for 201 pregnant women, the size specifications for maternity wear was determined and a dress form was proposed, in order to provide the manufacturer with reference data and a prototype to verify their products' fit and suitability. From a monthly analysis on the body measurements of pregnant women, significant monthly differences and after pregnancy were found in weight, chest girth, bust girth, under bust girth, waist girth, and hip girth. Dress form was designed based on the average body measurements of women in their 6th to 10th month of pregnancy. The standard dimensions in the 8th month were 90cm (chest), 94cm (bust), 86cm (under bust), 97cm(waist: most protruding part on the side), and 99cm (hip). Compared with Japan's MAT-9 (for nine months), chest girth was the same, while the Korean waist girth and hip girth were larger by 2cm and 3cm, respectively. The woven fabric blouse was evaluated as having the best appearance, while the knitted fabric one was judged as being more comfortable it terms of functionality. For the pants, the design details of the lowered waist and curved waist belt were more functional. The tailored jacket was the best design for working women in terms of both looks and functionality. To summarize, maternity wear for working women, unlike general maternity clothes, should be designed with consideration for the wearer's somatotype and activity. Elastic materials were appropriate for functionality and dealing with physical changes. With the increasing of working pregnant women, such trials are expected to continue in this research area in order to develop functional maternity wear with multi-purposes such as breast-feeding, wearability after delivery and shielding from microwave.

Korean Dress Collection Held in the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology in Cambridge (캠브리지 대학 고고인류학 박물관 소장 한복유물에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Soon-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.9
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    • pp.84-96
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    • 2011
  • This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology in Cambridge. The Museum holds a total of eleven items of koran dresses that were donated by two anthropologists in the first half of the twentieth century. Male dresses consist of a white cotton jacket (Jeogori), a under-vest (Deungbaeja) made of light wisteria rings, a headband (Manggeon) made of horsehair, a broad brimmed top hat (Gat) made of black horsehair gauze, an oilskin cover (Galmo) drawn over the hat in wet weather, and a hemispherical hat box (Gatjib). Female dresses comprise a pink silk jacket (Jeogori), a blue silk skirt (Chima) with pleats, a pair of woman's white cotton trousers (Sokgot), a black silk cap (Jobawi) decorated with pink tassels and imitation pearls, and a pair of green and magenta silk shoes (Danghye) with leather soles and metal rivets. Theses Korean dresses show what the western anthropologists had interests in. When collectors collect the folk objects, they thought much of the specificity of shape and material, the esthetic appreciation, and the representation of daily life. In terms of the value as the historical materials in the history of Korean dress, the under-vest of wisteria, the hat box, and the female dresses are worth paying attention to. The under-vest is one that was produced in earlier time among the remaining under-vests. The hat box represents that the hat belonged to the merchant classes. The female dress items show daily dresses worn by women of higher classes of the society in the 1920s.

A Study on form of 'collar' in the China and Mongolian Traditional OverCoat & National Costume -Focusing on 13th Century's- (중국 및 몽고제국의 포제와 민족복에 나타난 ' 깃 (옷깃)'에 대한 연구 -13세기를 중심으로-)

  • 김은주
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.19
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    • pp.209-240
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    • 1992
  • The costume of any nation is an attribute of a culture. This study concerns chinese and Mongolian costume's 'collar' form according to the observation of some reports about import folk materials and the pictures of the genuine objects, the author has investigated and rearranged them focusing on 13th Century's. 1. Traditional OverCoat or National costume on the poing of won dynasty in china such as Jacket, Coat, Mantle for making classical matching color, lacing, pearl pieces, and all costume shall be properly decorated and disigned. The example, Chinese Women's Gown and Double Jacket, on top of alignment of plaid, focus shall be placed on chinese classical form and color-matching, such as flowers and bireds, butterflies, made wishing ornaments, which shall be either hand painted or embroidered on collars, fronts, sleeves openings, and lower portion of gown. 2. Mongolian Costume, the stone status of a person, are seen at the territory of the Republic of Mongolia was a powerful country of Asia. So during the Mongolian Empire a lot of Missions from many countries came to kharakorom for establishing official relations between Mongolia and a country represented by mission. In particularly, the costume of mongols on the point of Chinggis khan Empire which the upper clothes in cluded ; a several kinds of the Caftan as compared with in Korea as to material (Silk caftan, Cotton Caftan, Fur Caftan) with closing to the right due to overlapping and Stand-up-Shawl Collars will pancho style & Round or V Neckline. 3. As compared with in Korea it is said that this a sort of Simui was brought in prior to the middle of Koryeo dynasty. Korean Simui system was complied with chinese system through confucian domestic behaviour. This was respected for court dress of confucian scholars, as it was, Chumri can ordinary dress of schloars) and Hakchangui ( a uniform of confucian student). Generally its form or shape of the outer lapels of Korean jacket were used together Squar-Tray-Collar. In late Yi-dynasty the inside collar length was longer than the outside collar length and the width of the collar was gradually narrow. And so the Traditional costume's outer collar of Jacket and OverCoat became small while the width and length of breast-tie became large. The same thing as the form of the collar on these days had been appeared by the design method or adjust one's dress. Therefore the form of collar in the china and Mongolian Traditional OverCoat & National Costume is fix arranged according to Stand up Collar, Without Collar, Clothing to the Right, Central opening, Horizontal Row of Button with Round or V Neckline and so on.

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Images Positioning of Women's Formal Wear Brands - Tuning in the three department stores in Daejon -

  • Koo, In-Sook
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.9 no.3
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    • pp.8-21
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    • 2005
  • The purpose at this study was to analyze and to position the clothing images at women's formal wear brands carried by at least two department stores in Daejon, for providing data for a basic marketing strategy for fashion manufacturers and distributors. The results tram the study were as tallows; The brand that showed the highest classic image was 'BCBG'(83.6%), the brand that showed the highest feminine image was 'Obzee' (80.2%), the brand that showed the highest character image was 'Doho' (84.1%), and the brand that showed the highest mannish image was 'F.Station' (64.1%). On the brands image positioning map, brands, such as 'Deco', 'Mine', 'Time', and 'Anne Klein', lying on or near the point of intersection (where the vertical and horizontal axes meet) showed 4 types. They were 'smart & chic cluster', 'charming & luxury cluster', 'character elegance cluster', and 'sportive elegance cluster' that showed compound images. These clusters would be differentiated tram young casual lines by emphasizing the brands' shape and cut, higher quality fabrics and materials, and elegant and graceful colors. Analysis of target ages and tweed jacket prices for brands carried by at least two department stores showed that the target was between 23 and 50, and that the prices range from 198,000 won to 460,000 won.

A Study on the Combination of Suit Details for Image of Classic Style Suits-Middle Aged Women′s Body Construct (중년여성의 수트 착용 형태미를 위한 형태 구성요인의 조합에 관한 연구)

  • 위은하;김옥진
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.8 no.5
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    • pp.726-740
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study is to evaluate the combination of suit details through visual evaluation which helps compensating the classic style suits-middle aged women's body construct for their more attractive fashion styles. The styles of the evaluated suits are formal and classical. The designs of evaluated suits are manipulated in 40 different kinds by the essential elements such as collars, necklines(tailored collars, soutien collars, stand collars, round necklines, V-necklines, etc.), bottoms(slacks, skirts), pocket (flap pocket, none) and opening(opened, closed). The data evaluated by a multiple ranking test were analyzed by paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple raged test. The results are summarized as follows : 1. A middle aged woman on skirts suits look more graceful, more elegant, and a bit more refined than that on slacks suits. 2. A middle aged woman wearing a jacket with flap pockets on looks more balanced, and graceful than when wearing with no pockets. 3. Wearing closed jackets looks more balanced and graceful than on opened jackets. 4. The types of collar·necklines can be called the details which put much influence on Image effects. Putting on tailored collar suits is the most graceful, refined, balanced and harmonious case than any others.

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A Study on Changes of Practical Korean Costume (생활한복의 변천에 관한 연구)

  • Choi, Kyung-Soon;Kim, Sun-Ryung
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.1 no.1
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    • pp.34-42
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    • 1999
  • The purpose of this study was to change practical korean costume in 20C. In the early 20C, inflow of western civilization started to change korean costume. Since then gradually changes to be simple in Korean costume. Results of this study can be summarized as follows: Traditional jacket (jeo-go-li) gradually began to be long to waist line. This jacket length was to be long and it sleeve is to be short in early 2OC. Traditional skirt (Chi-rna) length was short to the calf of the leg. Traditional wide skirt was gradually to be narrow and pleats shape look as if it in go-gu-Ryeo Dynasty. The width of pleats was about 3~5 cm, be one-sided, look as if it western style in today. But pleats skirt already existed on a women's of the upper classes in go-gu-Ryeo Dynasty. Women's long Coat (do-lu-ma-gi) length was short to under hip line in late 20c. In this way, the practical idea, the factor of design was because of western idea in civilization ages, early 20C. Since then gradually reformed to be simple in Korean costume. Assuming that the trend of simplification in Korean costume is related to the idea of practical. Therefore Korean costume of living or a reformed Korean costume to be design of practical, functional, convenient, economically. And it must have to traditional idea, it is only beauty of shape, pattern, line, fabric in Korean costume.

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