• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.273-286
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• 2021

In recent years, as human casualties and property damage caused by hazardous waves have increased in the East Sea, precise wave prediction skills have become necessary. In this study, the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) third-generation numerical wave model was calibrated and optimized to enhance the accuracy of winter storm wave prediction in the East Sea. We used Source Term 6 (ST6) and physical observations from a large-scale experiment conducted in Australia and compared its results to Komen's formula, a default in SWAN. As input wind data, we used Korean Meteorological Agency's (KMA's) operational meteorological model called Regional Data Assimilation and Prediction System (RDAPS), the European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecasts' newest 5th generation re-analysis data (ERA5), and Japanese Meteorological Agency's (JMA's) meso-scale forecasting data. We analyzed the accuracy of each model's results by comparing them to observation data. For quantitative analysis and assessment, the observed wave data for 6 locations from KMA and Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency (KHOA) were used, and statistical analysis was conducted to assess model accuracy. As a result, ST6 models had a smaller root mean square error and higher correlation coefficient than the default model in significant wave height prediction. However, for peak wave period simulation, the results were incoherent among each model and location. In simulations with different wind data, the simulation using ERA5 for input wind datashowed the most accurate results overall but underestimated the wave height in predicting high wave events compared to the simulation using RDAPS and JMA meso-scale model. In addition, it showed that the spatial resolution of wind plays a more significant role in predicting high wave events. Nevertheless, the numerical model optimized in this study highlighted some limitations in predicting high waves that rise rapidly in time caused by meteorological events. This suggests that further research is necessary to enhance the accuracy of wave prediction in various climate conditions, such as extreme weather.

• Atmosphere
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.93-106
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• 2009

Analysis has been made on the wind wave characteristics in terms of significant wave height ($H_s$) near the Korean marginal seas in the 2006 - 2007 year using the third generation wave model, WAVEWATCH - III model. In order to evaluate its performance, its results were compared with the observed data using KMA ocean buoy. The two year average RMSE between modeled and observed Hs shows reasonably small value of about 0.37 m. The accuracy of predicted values in the year 2007 is increased mainly due to finer model grid size and better accurate wind field. The model used in this study predicts very well the characteristics ($H_s$) of wind waves near the Korean Peninsular. Simulated monthly wind waves show the evident seasonal variations due to Typhoons in summer season. When Typhoons approach to Korean Peninsular, the accuracy of wind waves predictions is lower than that of annual mean value.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.28 no.9
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• pp.815-820
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• 2004

In this paper, after analyzing other models with their advantages and disadvantages, we proposed a simple parametric model for calculating wind speed & direction and wave height & direction at any location around the typhoon at sea. The proposed wind-field model of typhoon is asymmetric, and consists of a circular symmetric wind-field caused by the pressure gradient of stationary typhoon and a moving wind-field caused by the movement of typhoon. By verifying this model through observed data, we found that it is accurate enough to develop the simulation software for training students and seafarers so as to take appropriate actions while being faced with the typhoon at sea.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.179-192
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• 2021

In this study, an integrated wave model from global to coastal scales was developed to improve the operational wave prediction performance of the Korean Meteorological Administration (KMA). In this system, the wave model was upgraded to the WaveWatch III version 6.07 with the improved parameterization of the source term. Considering the increased resolution of the wind input field and the introduction of the high-performance KMA 5^th Supercomputer, the spatial resolution of global and regional wave models has been doubled compared to the operational model. The physical processes and coefficients of the wave model were optimized for the current KMA global atmospheric forecasting system, the Korean Integrated Model (KIM), which is being operated since April 2020. Based on the sensitivity experiment results, the wind-wave growth parameter (β_max) for the global wave model was determined to be 1.33 with the lowest root mean square errors (RMSE). The value of β_max showed the lowest error when applied to regional/coastal wave models for the period of the typhoon season when strong winds occur. Applying the new system to the case of August 2020, the RMSE for the 48-hour significant wave height prediction was reduced by 13.4 to 17.7% compared to the existing KMA operating model. The new integrated wave prediction system plans to replace the KMA operating model after long-term verification.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.7-15
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• 2010

Analyses of wind wave characteristics near the Korean marginal seas were performed in 2008 and 2009 by comparisons of an operational wind wave forecast model and ocean buoy data. In order to evaluate the model performance, its results were compared with the observed data from an ocean buoy. The model used in this study was very good at predicting the characteristics of wind waves near the Korean Peninsula, with correlation coefficients between the model and observations of over 0.8. The averaged Root Mean Square Error (RMSE) for 48 hrs of forecasting between the modeled and observed waves and storm surges/tide were 0.540 m and 0.609 m in 2008 and 2009, respectively. In the spatial and seasonal analysis of wind waves, long waves were found in July and September at the southern coast of Korea in 2008, while in 2009 long waves were found in the winter season at the eastern coast of Korea. Simulated significant wave heights showed evident variations caused by Typhoons in the summer season. When Typhoons Kalmaegi and Morakot in 2008 and 2009 approached to Korean Peninsula, the accuracy of the model predictions was good compared to the annual mean value.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.57-65
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• 2007

Shallow water waves are hindcasted from sea wind fields, which include wave transformations such as shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection and wave breaking. In case of estimating sea wind field in shallow water, the sea wind revised from free wind obtained by the typhoon model is widely used. However, this method is not able to consider the effect of land topography on the wind field, which will be important factor for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting. In this study, therefore, the effect of land topography on sea wind field in shallow water is investigated for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting with high accuracy. The 3-D MASCON model is introduced to consider the influence of land topography on the wind field. And, for two areas divided by the topographical characteristics, i.e. shielded and opened coastal areas, sea wind field is examined by comparison between initial wind field by typhoon model and modified wind field by 3-D MASCON model. Finally, applying these sea wind fields to SWAN model, the results of shallow water wave calculated in shielded and opened coastal areas are compared, and, also, the effect of MASCON model on shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting is discussed.

• Wind and Structures
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.193-211
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• 2013

This paper presents results from a wind tunnel study that examined the drag coefficient and wind flow over an asymmetric wave train immersed in turbulent boundary layer flow. The modeled wavy surface consisted of eight replicas of a statistically-valid hurricane-generated wave, located near the coast in the shoaling wave region. For an aerodynamically rough model surface, the air flow remained attached and a pronounced speed-up region was evident over the wave crest. A wavelength-averaged drag coefficient was determined using the wind profile method, common to both field and laboratory settings. It was found that the drag coefficient was approximately 50% higher than values obtained in deep water hurricane conditions. This study suggests that nearshore wave drag is markedly higher than over deep water waves of similar size, and provides the groundwork for assessing the impact of nearshore wave conditions on storm surge modeling and coastal wind engineering.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.333-342
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• 2012

We studied the characteristics of spatial distribution of global wave height and carried out the modelsensitivity test by changing the input field, model resolution and physical factor (effective wind factor) since the spatial and temporal resolution in wind wave forecasting is one of most important factors. Comparisons among the different cases, and also between model, buoy and satellite data have been made. As a results of the wind-wave model run using the high resolution wind field, the bias of significant wave height showed the positive tendency and the Root-Mean Square Error(RMSE) was a bit decreased based on the comparison with buoy data. When the model resolution was changed to higher, the bias and RMSE was increased, and as the effective wind factor was smaller than default value(= 1.4) the bias and RMSE showed also decreasing pattern.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2004.05a
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• pp.229-234
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• 2004

A Typhoon wave is generated by wind fields during the Passage of Typhoon. Transporting wind field makes wind wave and swell in the open sea, and then, those wave components are transported in the shallow water. Typhoon waves in the shallow water is generated by Typhoon wind field and incident wave. Bisides, Incident waves to the shallow water are deformated by topographic conditions. This paper estimated the analysis of the Typhoon waves by wind fields and incident waves according to wave action balance equation model. As the result of wave numerical experiment, wave field during the passage of Typhoon 'Memi' in the shallow water is strongly effect by wind fields. Wave action balance equaion can be partially used for Typhoon wave simulations.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.79-90
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• 2009

This paper presents the development of dynamically combined Typhoon generated surge-tide-wave numerical model which is applicable from deep to shallow water. The dynamically coupled model consists of hydrodynamic module and wind wave module. The hydrodynamic module is modified from POM and wind wave module is modified from WAM to be applicable from deep to shallow water. Hydrodynamic module computes tidal currents, sea surface elevations and storm surges and provide these information to wind wave module. Wind wave mudule computes wind waves and provides computed information such as radiation stress, sea surface roughness and shear stress due to winds. The newly developed model was applied to compute the surge, tide and wave fields by typhoon Maemi. Verification of model performance was made by comparison of measured waves and tide data with simulated results.