• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.158-175
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to understand and improve the clothing habits and the apparel industry of North Korea in preparation for the reunification of South and North Korea. For this study, literary data, reports, periodicals, interviews and internet data of the two Koreas were reviewed. North Korean clothing habits used to be monotonous and uniform but nowadays people's clothes have become somewhat brighter in color and more diverse in design than before. In particular, liberal and individual dressing habits appeared among the privileged classes. When taking part in national events, women have to wear the traditional Korean costume, Hanbok, while men wear business suits for formal wear. In general, men don't wear Hanbok. Students have to be in uniforms but blue jeans, T-shirts with English logos were popular among them reflecting their sensitivity and openness towards western cultures. The brides usually wear pink Hanboks and the bridegrooms wear black business suits for their wedding. North Koreans also wear Hanbok on national holidays like South Koreans. Clothing is the most important item in the trade of process commission between North and South Korea. Trading items are mid to low end men's clothing for the most part due to less emphasis on fashion in the North. The processing is indirect trade and composed of sample making and contracting, sending out materials and production, carrying in goods and setting accounts. To activate South-North trade, establishment of infrastructure, stabilization of shipping, reducing high costs of distribution, building direct communication system by setting up office in a neutral zone and simplifying procedures in applying for the South and North Korea Economic Cooperation Fund. On the other hand, clothing and textiles education is carried on at art colleges, light industries colleges and commercial colleges in Pyongyang. Clothing institutes which study Hanbok and Western clothes, are installed in each city and province. Graduates who majored in clothing and textiles are posted in institutes or apparel factories. Their job is designing, patternmaking and sewing for their customers. Most of them are women and in good state of economic conditions. The North Korean clothing industry has been the core national industry that has developed based on overseas demand form the mid 1980s. The standard is that of South Korea in the early 1980s. In 1999, trade of North Korean textile products with trade counterparts such as Japan and China was $1.3 million in exports and $1.27 in imports. Of this amount the export takes up 25.4% of the total exports in North Korea. However, fundamentally even in sectors that are irrelevant to politics such as the fashion clothing industry, trust between the South and North should be a prerequisite. Only through this can exchange between North and South and economic cooperation contribute towards the reunification.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.9
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• pp.1000-1013
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• 2012

This study analyzes public images, role types, and fashion images of Korean First Ladies in modern times to find a correlation of a standard through an analysis of literature reviews. The conclusion of the study is as follows. First, in terms of official functions in formal situations, First Ladies represent a type of customary presidential protocol and offer appealing neat images through a moderate style and simple mode. In other situations, such as non-formal times, they show duty-based roles in regards to the lady of the house as well as the companion of the president that are represent soft and comfortable images through a feminine style and graceful mode. Second, it reflects their tastes and images in the silhouette and colors of Western style clothing through the personal roles and activities of the First Lady. Third, the Korean First Ladies tend to prefer the feminine image of housewife-based assistant that shows that they prefer clothes with a regular repetition and stabilized pattern such as dots and checkered patterns. Fourth, as compared to a previous period, they create a style for bright images and dainty feelings that use a variety of colors and light fabrics that represent many aspects of political assistance with active support.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.83-93
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• 1986

This study is aimed at providing guidelines to settle unified terminologies that can be used in education, industry and factories by identifying the problems in the use of complicated terminologies concerning manufacture of western costumes. The results of the study reveal that educational terminologies tend to be more Korean languages whereas the terminologies used in practice consist of main streams of Japanese words which were transmitted erroneously, thus causing barriers of communication between the two fields, being same points to be called differently and being the terminologies pertinent to Korean costumes mistakenly used for western costumes. The confusion of use of professional terminologies is significant problem to be sotted in view point not only of the economic aspects of low productivity but also of the settlement and transmission of Korean culture. Therefore, the administrative measures are badly in need to solve all these problems. The following points are recommended to solve these problems on the basis of the findings of this study. 1) In principle the mistakenly transmitted Japanese words and the mixed up terminologies should be Koreanized, but those words for which there are no proper Korean words and complicated words difficult to commumicate can be replaced by the standardized pronunciation of the original words. 2) The words for Korean costumes which are mistakenly used for western costumes should be expressed by the standard of western costumes. 3) The readily localized foreign terminologies had better be used as they are. 4) The variety of terminologies indicating same points should be Koreanized in unification to best express the true meaning of the original words. 5) The misspelled Korean words and the dialect of Korean words should be standardized.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.21
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• pp.177-192
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to present de-sign development and constructive method on man's Hanbok which can be put on daily-life clothing through supplementing the incon-venience of HanBok and to make men put on daily-life-HanBok through making the HanBok ready-made clothing which has lower-price. The concrete test and its process on devel-oped design are below. (1) In present there are five uncomfortable point waist closing baji's slitting and daenim (2) Developed the first design concentrating on uncomfortable parts with Korean costume-pattern (3) to supplement sleeve armhole and waist closing which are pointed out as the incon-venience at first design development did the second design development. The results through research and process are below. (1) In the functional test of testing clothing a testee is satisfied with jegory's closing at 87. 5% with pocket at 100% and with baji's front closing and daenim (2) The opinion of an observer on daily-life Hanbok is an affirmative response as following turns: traditional aspect practical use and aesthetic aspect. (3) Analyzing the relations between the characters of daily-life hanbok and the popu-lation density variables results are the popu-lation density variable results are followed below. Man has highe points than woman on asthetic and economical aspect. In preferences as educational levels more-educated person has an affirmative response on keeping traditions. In jobs students and white-collar people have affirmative responses on traditions. (4) What one wants to wear the most is the fourth Hanbok(mixing western and Korean costume style with Korean costume fabrics) and daily-life Hanbok with western costume fabrics has 51.8% preferences of responsers. With those results man's daily-life HanBok made through the first and the second design development lessens the inconvenience of Hanbok with some degrees. Also if daily-life Hanbok design continue to be developed through using Korean costume fabrics and western costume fabrics people can easily by functional and practical daily-life Hanbok because it can be massproduced.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.85-97
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• 1990

This study investigates, through the Ka-rae-ban-cha-do(가예반차도) in the Ka-rae-do-gam­eui-gue (가예도감의궤), how the system of costume used in ceremony exchanged during the middle, late the Yi dynasty and in the period of introducing Wastern civilization. The procedure of the royal marriage is also studied here. The procedures of Ka-rae were divided into the six traditional etiguettes(륙예) : Nap-che (납채) , Nap-gyng(납징), Go-gi(고기), Chaik-bi(책비), Chin-young(친영), and Dong-roe(동뢰). The change of the general structure and characteristic of the costume used in the ceremony in Ka-rae-ban-cha-do are as follows: The costume in Ka-rae-ban-cha-do can be divided into the Guard costume (호위복식) and the Ceremonial arms costume (의장복식). The most formal attire of the Guard costume, Yangkwan-Chobok (양관-조복) and Samo -Danryeong(사모-단령) with Huygpai(흉배) can be seem only in the Ka-rae of late king's. Of the Ceremonial arms costume, the most outstanding was Hongkun- Hongeui (홍건-홍의), which showed up in almost all Ka-rae-ban-cha-do. Heukkun-Changos$\cdot$Deogrei (흑건-창옷$\cdot$더그레) were worn as well. In the style of costume emphasis convenience and practicality rather than on beauty, because they had to carry the arms used in ceremony with them nevertheless by using primary colors it was very colorful. This costume in Ka-rae-ban-cha-do has little difference, but great changes are shown in Sunjongsunjongbi Ka-rae-ban-cha-do (순종순종비가례반차도). Most costume of the past was replaced with western hat and suit, so the duplicate state of our costume and western costume came into existence during the period of introducing western civilization.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.723-739
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• 2011

This research seeks to analyze western men's costume in the Baroque era in relation to men's physical beauty from its most detailed and interesting perspective to fomulate a plausible reasoning related to the aesthetic sense of body as expressed in men's costume. This research used national and international books, theses and internet data upon which to base a literature review for a correct understanding of Baroque style and at the same time empirical research to analyze the body image expressed in men's costume. The Baroque style expressed in the 17th century costume offered a dynamic feeling through wavy curves, and its brilliant and colorful decorations created a passionate and charming mood resembling a flame. Accordingly, this research studied the body image as it appeared in the form of 17th century western men's costume by dividing it into the contact beauty of the human body and the manner of hiding the architectural beauty of the human body. First, the exposed silhouette by clothing coming into contact with the human body could be found mainly in upper-class men's costume in the first half of the 17th century. The shorter and tighter doublets and knee breeches could be analyzed in terms of erotic imagery that emphasized masculinity, aristocratic imagery that stressed a distinctive status, and geometric imagery that expressed a triangular pattern. Second, the constructive expression by hiding the human body could be found in upper-class men's costume starting in the mid-17 century. The wearing of the justaucorps could be studied in terms of how it came into contact with the beauty of the human body but also how this clothing style the hid the architectural beauty of human body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.315-327
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• 1993

The purpose of this study was to clarify the model of fashion change related to the cyclical variations suggested by Kroeber and Young and the selected social changes factors since Kapokyungchang(1894) in Korea. The sample was drawn from illustrations and photos in newspapers and magazines such as Chosunilbo, Dongailbo, and Yeowon. Documentary research and a content analysis have been done. The results were as follows : 1. Cyclical variations in dress were apparent for skirt length and silhouette. However, Kroeber's model and Young's model that regulary recurring cycles exist did not fit the data for 1970 to 1990 in Korea. For skirt length, the cycles appeared to be approximately five to six years for 1970 to 1990. 2. Social and institutional factors tended to account for more the variance in dress dimensions than political factors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.21-36
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• 2000

History confirms that the eastern style was reflected in various parts of the western culture including clothing. In this paper we show some evidence that the influence of India on the French clothing during the neo-classical period(1789-1820) was substantial. Among others, the use of muslin, kashmir shawl and banyan during the period is greatly emphasized. The muslin imported from India was used as the textile for the chemise mown, a typical clothing during the period. Indian muslin was used, because it was of better quality compared to the muslin manufactured in England and France and it was not expensive. The kashmir shawl imported from kashmir in India was also a popular item in Europe not only because it matched well with simple color of chemise gown, but because it expressed the tone of Greek and Roman. Banyan which was most popular clothing worn by men in 18th century Europe originally came from India, which goes back to the Kaftan clothing in the Central Asia. Banyan was an informal home style clothing different from the conventional tight men's wear. It is true that the muslin, kashmir shawl, and banyan also became fashion items throughout the 19th and 20th century to the English and other European people. However, we limited our attention to the influence of India on France because we think the French Revolution and Napoleon's conquest of Egypt are far more important factors when considering the influence of Indian culture on Europe.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.53-61
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• 2005

With the acceptance of western culture, our traditional culture is in the crisis of disappearing. This is especially evident in the clothing and textile field. Therefore it seems essential to apply the traditional Korean aesthetics to our clothing. The purpose of this study is to reconstruct the types of design and analyse the characteristics of patterns expressed in traditional roof-tile. This study attempted to use the roof-tile patterns as motive for all tapestry and fashion design work to realize a creative expression of formative world through on-screen restructuring. The traditional roof-tile patterns were selected for this study because they must be the products created with our ordinary aesthetic values and techniques, and thus may represent our people's unique culture. After all, the expression for a work should be based not on simple representations of a given object but on restructuring of diverse unique forms according to worker's subjective senses. A piece of clothing with the expression of traditional and formative must combine traditional aesthetics of tradition and form. The application of traditional and formative value of Korean pattern in clothing made to be adaptable for wear in our everyday lives. Today there various attempts to combine traditional aesthetics with modem design. Also, the development of unique Korean design aesthetics within the clothing will allow for a distinct elegance that can be recognized by the world know about the Korean culture through the high standards of our clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.3
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• pp.95-107
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• 1980

The hair and headdress, positioned on the top of the body, assume a special role of accomplishing the silhouette of the clothing. This thesis reviewed the change of the hair and headdresses of the ancient Western world and studied the relationship between the silhouettes of the dresses and the shapes of the hairstyles. It was concluded that the hairstyles of each region had been developed in accordance, with their dress silhouettes, either repeating the silhouettes in a smaller scale, or reflecting their aesthetic attitudes toward clothing in the hairstyles. Religious symbolism was displayed strongly. In the headdresses of the cultures where the religious influence was great.