• 복식문화연구
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.17-25
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• 1995

The aim of thesis is to analyze dress phenomena, the semantic function and meaning of clothing were respectively on the basis of Semantics and Society by Geoffrey Leech and mentalistic semantics. To comprehend the actual clothing behaviour better, the pictures taken on the streets were used, including all kinds of the western-style and the traditional Korean costumes in Korea. The followings are the findings of the analysis. A in language, the semantic functions of the clothing are the informational, the expressive, the directive, the aesthetic, and the phatic functions. They communicate operating simultaneously. The clothing is the mentalistic semantics.

• 복식
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• 제65권1호
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• pp.136-149
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• 2015

This research aimed to study the making of western men's coats in the early 19th century. First of all, the study figured out the concepts and forms of western men's tops in the early 19th century by collecting and categorizing pictures including engravings, paintings and pattern books, and literature data. Second, this research identified the patterns, sewing, and design techniques by examining the pattern books on men's clothing in the early 19th century, and analyzed the preserved costumes to restore the selected models. Third, this research presented historical evidences and patterns after designing a men's tailcoat of the early $19^{th}$ century and checking the fit based on the analyzed forms and design techniques. The research discovered that the analyzed results between the tailcoat forms depicted in literature, pictures and pattern books and preserved costumes were almost identical. From this, it can be assumed that the tailors followed a manual when designing garments during that time given the similarity between historical records and remaining items. In addition, it can be seen that the forms and designing methods of men's clothing in the 19th century were almost similar to that of the modern menswear, despite the differences in producing process.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.15-33
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• 2011

The late $19^{th}$ and early $20^{th}$ centuries of Korea were the times when the Confucianism (牲理學) ideology was shaken heavily under the influences of modernism and capitalism by Western and Japanese military and political-economic forces. Under such circumstances, alteration of clothing was much influenced by ideologies than changes in social structure or technological advance. In this study, an ideology was defined as "the force which drives people into a particular social order". Ideologies were postulated as an ongoing process of socialization with dialectic features rather than being a static state. Comparative analyses on conflict structures and different clothing patterns symbolizing the ideologies of the Ruling (支配) and the Opposition (對抗) were conducted. Investigating dresses as representations of ideologies is to reconsider the notion of dichotomous confrontation between the conservatives (守舊派) and the progressives (開化派) and a recognition of Koreans' passively accepting modernity during the Japanese occupation. This may also have contributed to enlightening Koreans about modernization. Here are the results. First, the theoretical review found that ideologies were represented by not only symbols of discourse, but also dresses, and that dresses embodied both physical and conceptual systems presenting differences between ideologies and their natures, Second, during the late 19th century Korea, conflict between conservatives' Hanbok (韓服) and progressives' Western suits (洋服) was found. Moderate progressives showed their identity by "Colored Clothing" (深色衣), and radical progressives by black suits with short hair (黑衣斷髮) or by western suits (洋服). The ultimate goal of both parties was a "Modern Nation". With these efforts, pale jade green coats and traditional hats symbolizing the nobleman class was eliminated within 30 years from 1880 to 1910, and then simple robes and short hair emerged. However, the powerful Japanese army had taken over the hegemony of East Asia, and Korea was sharply divided into modernization and pro-Japanese camps. Third, during the time of Japanese colonial rule, the dress codes having set by the modernization policies during the time of enlightenment were abandoned and colonial uniforms for the colonial system was meticulously introduced. During this period, Western or Japanese-style uniforms were the symbol of the ruling ideology. In the mean time, Hanbok, particularly "White Clothing (白衣)", emerged as a representation of the opposition ideology. However, due to Japan's coercive power and strong zeal for "Great orient (大東亞)", white clothing remained as a mere symbol. Meanwhile, Reformists (實力養成論者) movement toward improving quality of life followed a similar path of the Japanese policies and was eventually incorporated into the ruling ideology. Fourth, dresses as representations of ruling ideologies were enforced by organizational powers, such as organizations and laws, and binding policies, and changes in such dresses were more significant when the ruling ideologies were stronger. Clothing of the opposition ideology was expressed as an aggregation of public consciousness. During the period, the subjects of ruling ideology and the objects who were granted modernization benefits were different although their drives for colored clothing with short hair (色衣斷髮) for modernization were similar.

• 복식
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• 제28권
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• pp.85-98
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• 1996

Yanbian is the area where many Korean-Chinese have settled and have undergone a unique culture. This study is intended to examine the clothing life of Korean-Chinese in Yanbian in the aspects of the cultural marginality and the effects of other cultures. Nowadays they have three kinds of dresses" Han-Bok In-Min-Bok and the western dress. han-Bok is the result of cultural marginal phenomenon so they pre-serve 1920s style which already disappeared in South Korea. In-Min-Bok is the production of Communism which is an 'invention' from the viewpoint of Cultural-Anthropology. However both Han-Bok and In-Min-Bok are gradually disappearing from the daily life. Today it is quite common for us to see a number of people wearing western dresses on the street. In their clothing life the acculturation to the Chinese wasn't traced which may be due to the strong 'National I dentity' of them.

• 복식
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• 제20권
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• pp.191-201
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• 1993

As a part of study examining Korean costume remaining in Yanbian China, this study explored changes in ceremonial clothing for marriage worn by Korean(Chosun race) in Yanbian China. About one hundred years ago, Koreans moved to Yanbian China and had worn traditional clothing for marriage ceremony until before 1940. Data were collected by true interview and field observation while staying in that area. Samo and Dalyung for bridegrooms, Wonsam and Jockdoory for bridegrooms, wonsam and Jockdoory for brides were usual costume for wedding ceremony, however, for couples in inferior conditions of life, Bazy and Jeogory for bridegrooms, yellow Jeogory and red Chima for brides were accepted for ceremonial costume. As western culture came to this area in about 1940, bridegrooms wore western style suit, while brides dress in white Chima, Jeogory and Neowool. To date, Korean brides have worn traditional Chima and Jeogory for marriage ceremony though slight change has occurred in clothing material and in the forms of Chima, Geogory and Neowool. As the pratice reflected the fact that Korean in Yanbian China as established and sustained traditional China as established and sustained traditional costume and Korean identity even in hush socio-cultural environment.

• 복식
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• 제55권4호
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• pp.49-61
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• 2005

This study is to research the types and formation of the pieces for fastening the clothing in the western and oriental world from 18c to 19c. The pieces for fastening the clothing, depending on their formation, are classified as the ribbon type, the belt type, the button type, and the compound type. The ribbon type indicates fastening the clothing with the strips attached to the clothes. It is divided into the symmetry type and the asymmetry type by the looks of the ribbon alter it is tied. The belt type means fastening the clothing with a string or a belt, separated from the clothes. It is divided into the string type and the belt type. The button type is to fasten the clothing with buttons, button holes, and hooks. It is divided into the basic type, the wrapping type, and the knot type. The compound type is a mixture of two or three types out of the ribbon type, the belt type, and the button type. The pieces for fastening the clothing has aesthetic features as well as their functional characteristics. It has beautiful features like the harmonious beauty of Yin and Yen shown in the asymmetrical types, the beauty of spell wishing for health, long-life, wealth, wisdom, and so on, the beauty of decency showing the intention of refraining from exposing their body in public, the beauty of eroticism emphasizing the beauty of the human body, and the beauty of representing their social class, authority, affiliation, and so on.

• 복식
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• 제61권6호
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• pp.38-59
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• 2011

This study is based on the periodical discourse of women and their costumes, described in modern novels that were published from late 1890s to the 1930s. New cultural phenomena emerged among Korean women in the period of modernization. In particular, rapid increase of jobs for women and preference for western female body shape are very noticeable phenomena that can be observed in novels of the 1930s. In addition, the symbolic meanings of female costumes are variously described in modern novels according to the periodical and spatial environment and jobs for women. The symbolic meanings are organized as 'Trophysm, Expression of sexuality, Liberation from male-dominated society, Symbolic difference between rural and urban areas, Vanity, Decadence, Mechanism tending to hide and Change of values'. And women's costumes kept changing in the boundary of 'Confliction, Coexistence and Harmonization' of traditional and western costumes. 'Confliction' phenomenon got emerged in novels published between 1900 and 1910. The resistance on traditional costumes that restricted woman's life got spread. But western female costumes as a symbol of new culture could not be generalized but accepted as high fashion. 'Coexistence' phenomenon was appeared in novels of the 1920s. At that time, the modernization for traditional costumes by female students was emerged along with trendy fashion. Also, the frequency of using western fashion items was increased in the Korean society. Therefore, it shows that western costumes in the Korean society became popularized in the coexistence with traditional costumes. 'Harmonization' phenomenon was emerged in novels of the 1930s. In the novels, the emergence of western female costumes, personal preference items, and westernized hair style implies that western costumes were absorbed into the Korean society that had kept traditional costumes.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권5호
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• pp.473-488
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• 2012

This study examines the origin of dolls as well as how the role and types of various dolls have changed in a comparison of the functions of dolls before and after $20^{th}$ century. In addition, this study analyzes symbolic characteristics appearing in doll costumes. First, doll costumes (used in child play) represent sexual roles and various role models that are taught to children. Second, they reflect the fashion trends of that time and appear in the most beautiful forms that pursue the ideals of the time where doll costumes symbolize the latest fashion of the time. Third, the culture of doll costumes symbolizes cultural identity that show native customs, art, culture, and ethnic characteristics. Lastly, a mania society for dolls and collector groups are formed that share individual sensitivity. Members of those groups have feelings of solidarity and homogeneity through doll costumes that they have decorated and expressed themselves that show the reinforcement of a group by doll costumes.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제49권9호
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• pp.99-109
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to characterize the new women, modern girls and modern boys from the 1920's to the 1930's as a modern new generation, the primary consumer of modern consumption culture, and to examine their values, lifestyles, consumption culture and clothing attitudes. The data were obtained from the magazines and newspapers published from 1920's to 1930's and previous literatures, and analyzed by qualitative content analysis. The results were as follows: A modern new generation meant the new women, modern girls, and modern boys seeking for the western looks and cultural tastes. The values of a new generation people were individualism, materialism, and modernism which was the same as Americanism. They enjoyed western lifestyles and sports and consumed new mass media and popular culture. Their clothing attitudes were fashion orientation, conformity, symbolism, conspicuous consumption, aesthetic value, individuality, and practicality.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권4호
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• pp.55-66
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• 1997

This study is an indepth analysis of the environment surrounding the evolvement of western make-up culture, its transition during the twentieth century and its cultural characteristics with an aim to analyze people's aesthetic sense during the twentieth century and the western make-up culture which stands as the foremost important measure of its reflection. In order to accomplish this task, I have centered my studies on previous records, documents, articles, magazines, and pictorial data on art and motion pictures all of which involve the art of clothing and make-up. First, 'total fashion' make-up which seeks general harmony of color and figure in order to achieve unified beauty with other elements of beauty such as clothing is emphasized. Second, twentieth century make-up has expressed women's social status and value of each different time culture. Third, make-up has transformed its role from that of expressing only women's beauty to that of expressing resistance and opinion. Fourth, in the midst of material-centered societies spread due to high level of industrialization, development of highly functional make-up(biocosmetics) emerged as people became more conscious of nature and started to aggressively pursue protection.