• 복식
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• 제61권9호
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• pp.84-96
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• 2011

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology in Cambridge. The Museum holds a total of eleven items of koran dresses that were donated by two anthropologists in the first half of the twentieth century. Male dresses consist of a white cotton jacket (Jeogori), a under-vest (Deungbaeja) made of light wisteria rings, a headband (Manggeon) made of horsehair, a broad brimmed top hat (Gat) made of black horsehair gauze, an oilskin cover (Galmo) drawn over the hat in wet weather, and a hemispherical hat box (Gatjib). Female dresses comprise a pink silk jacket (Jeogori), a blue silk skirt (Chima) with pleats, a pair of woman's white cotton trousers (Sokgot), a black silk cap (Jobawi) decorated with pink tassels and imitation pearls, and a pair of green and magenta silk shoes (Danghye) with leather soles and metal rivets. Theses Korean dresses show what the western anthropologists had interests in. When collectors collect the folk objects, they thought much of the specificity of shape and material, the esthetic appreciation, and the representation of daily life. In terms of the value as the historical materials in the history of Korean dress, the under-vest of wisteria, the hat box, and the female dresses are worth paying attention to. The under-vest is one that was produced in earlier time among the remaining under-vests. The hat box represents that the hat belonged to the merchant classes. The female dress items show daily dresses worn by women of higher classes of the society in the 1920s.

• 복식
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• 제66권1호
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• pp.122-134
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• 2016

The Mural Tomb of Xu Xianxiu(AD 571), a high ranking official in Northern Qi period, is located in Taiyuan, Shanxi province, China. Despite having been raided, it was still discovered to contain over 530 pieces, such as artifacts and murals, in excellent state of preservation. These murals are noteworthy for their high level of detail compared to other murals from the same era, and are important for understanding the historical context of active East-West and Han-Hu cultural exchange in the $6^{th}$ to $7^{th}$ century. The murals of Xu Xianxiu's tomb depict round-collared and narrow-sleeved garments as well as straight collared robes typical of the Xianbei tribe's attire. Notable are the ermine fur overcoat and a headwear with flares on the left and right thought to be unique to the Xianbei. The wife and female servants show female attire of the Xianbei at the time; this attire can be characterized by narrow-sleeved long gowns and asymmetrical flying-bird buns. Despite the anti-Han policy of Northern Qi, influences such as the right sided gathering of the robes and embellished hair styles remain. The procession also depicts the three-cornered headdress and long-tailed hood of the Xianbei men, which have been recorded in documents. The large rounded pearl pattern containing the palmette, the divine animal, and bodhisattva's head motifs show the influence of the Western China [Xi'yu]. Considering that Northern Qi had more active interactions with the three ancient kingdoms of Korea than with the Southern Kingdoms[Nanchao], the findings of this study call for further research on the correlation between the attire of ancient Korea and Northern Qi.

• 복식
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• 제58권2호
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• pp.93-106
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• 2008

Asia Folk Costumes are certainly different from the Western Costumes. This distinction is based upon the effect of environment, technology, and social structure, and especially, which was generated by religion, ideology, and philosophy. The ideas of fundamental ground of this eastern features are religions such as Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. The religion of the East has determined the form of traditional costumes, affecting the costume up to now. This study aims at the investigation of the effect of religion on the formation of East Asia Traditional Costumes around Korea, China, and Japan and its figurative beauty. Study was carried out by chiefly referring to literatures. Eastern Aesthetics was formed by accepting aesthetic concepts, acquired from the idea of Three Religions. Especially, the ideas of non-duality(不二), emptiness(空), five aggregates(五蘊), mind control(心法), derived by Buddhism, and nature theory(自然論) and creationism(創造論) of Taoism, and abstinence theory(節制論) and decorum(禮法) and the principles of Yin and Yang(陰陽) of confucianism have had great effect on the aesthetics of costume. The figurative features of costume, affected by three religions are described by the factors; First, non structural feature, second, the beauty of abstinence and chastity of ample silhouette, third, the feature of natural color and achromatic color, fourth, the figurative feature of costume by the principles of Yin and Yang, and fifth, bright ornaments. The aesthetic values of the East Asia Costume are 'A Beauty of Vacancy', 'A Beauty of Concealment', 'A Beauty of Nature', and 'A Beauty of Symbolism'. As philosophy, culture, and ethnics itself, the religions of Asia have had effect on the overall culture, which is inclusive of social structure, as well as art and aesthetics, and have decided the style of costume.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.54-68
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• 2006

Suhainmyuldo (樹下人物圖) is a type of picture which expresses a person under the tree and is known to be brought to the Korean Peninsula from the Middle Asia. The origin of this kind of expression is assumed to be from Iykshini (or Iygsha), the fairy of tree, in India and the 'Tree of Life' in Western Asia which influenced on the craft art design of Chinese art. However, Chinese art had already developed the motif of this kind in its unique way; for example, Jookrimchilhundo (竹林七賢圖: seven wise men in bamboo forest) in the Six Dynasty. There are only two items of female dress and its ornament from the 4th to 6th century Suhainmyuldo of the Goguryeo ancient tomb mural: one from the Jangchun Tomb No. 1 in which a female figure is portrayed as a part of living genre painting and the other from the Anahk Tomb No. 1 with seven female figures in a painting which is one of the earliest Suhainmyuldos, presumably from the 4th century. These two paintings must be considered in parallel with the origin of Suhainmyuldo. The mountain wizard's dress and Men's dress and its ornament in Suhainmyuldo from the 4th to the late 6th century Goguryeo ancient tomb is mostly joint adjust in which its collar is connected by a line and almost all the wizards are wearing Sang (upper garment). Most mountain wizards are wearing black feather shaped jackets and upper garments. One noticeable observation is that the mountain wizards of Mooyongchong, Tongu Ohgoibun Nos. 4 and 5 are completely different from one another in terms of ways to dress each wizard's official hats and shoes.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.89-98
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to female child Han-bok reform design for body growth. Nowadays there is common the western style daily life and special day instead of traditional style Han-bok in Korea. So the decrease in the use of Han-bok have being appeared. Specially, Children's Han-bok undesirable clothes for economic, environment, and resources because of their rapid growth and changing trend. Therefor, they do away with used Han-bok without next buying of school age. Children's parents and children are decision together purchase of children's Han-bok on-line for pleasure and economic reasons on pre-school or 1st year student for their tradition-education class. After 2000year, children's Han-bok pup-up on e-market because of the fashion focus on tradition and Korean wave for parody of Korean drama. Flowing the Research of 2010 Size Korea, the elementary school age child height growth 6cm per year, the sleeve length are 3cm growth. But Chi-ma(a pice of Han-bok) from e-market, has only 5cm margin on shoulder and no margin on Jegori(a pice of Han-bok) shoulder and sleeve, reason of that the children can't wear next year. Therefor this study is development female child Han-bok reform design for body growth, for extend to wear Han-bok on school age children and flow tradition custom of Cho-sun Dynasty's clothing custom for boost tradition conscious and reduce of cloth waste for environment.

• 복식
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• 제55권1호
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• pp.13-24
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• 2005

Throughout the history of fashion and fashion collections, fashion design has been influenced by fine arts. Philosophy and concept of fine arts has been inspiration on the development of fashion design which brings on the close interrelation between fine arts and modern fashion. In order to analyze the affect of fine arts such as Pop art on fashion this study inquires into new perspective that considers different social contexts on the premise that acknowledges the essential difference between the genre of fine arts and design. This study researches the influence of Pop art which has been inspiration on fashion designers since the birth in the 1960s and often appears in recent fashion trends. In view of the results achieved in this study, Pop art-inspired fashion does not concern the aesthetic contemplation of everyday life in western society anonymously as in Pop art but deals with pop art as new ideas in a way that adopts images randomly from designer's convenience which is equivalent to the conception of pastiche. In addition, it was inferred that Peter Pan syndrome exert influence as a mental process and Kidult trend operate on Pop art-inspired fashion as a social phenomenon. On the basis of the theoretical background, the formative features in Pop art-inspired fashion from Spring/Summer 2000 to Spring/Summer 2004 collection has been analyzed. The results fall on the following four categories; those are the use of Pop color which resembles the Hard-edge technique in Pop art, direct appropriation of Pop art such as Andy Warhol and Roy Lichitenstein's works on clothes and accessories, adaptation of Pop art's subject using brand names of mass products or icons in mass culture as design motives, and application of representation method in Pop art such as Andy Warhol's silk screen techniques or Tom Wesselman's composition of pictures.

• 복식
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• 제63권6호
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• pp.56-68
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• 2013

A purpose of this study is to do fundamental research of construction of coat patterns in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the costumes. This study is composed of literature research, investigation of artifacts, and experiment of pattern making. The results of this study are as follows. First, even if the 15th Court Dress Rules regulated color, fabric, number of flower, width of braid, and size of button, there was no regulation regarding the shape of the coat. The analysis of the photos in those periods shows that the style of the tailcoat was different from that of today in the length of the front, the shape of breast and collar. Second, six artifacts in the collection showed that the shoulder line and the sideline were located on the further rear side than the current tailcoat. This can be confirmed in the western and Japanese pattern book, and especially the pattern drafting method in the books published in Japan in 1900s is different from current one in setting base lines of front bodice and back bodice. As a result, based on several experiments, this study proposes how to make coat patterns. The shoulder line, the sideline, and the princess line should be located in the back of the dress similar to the shape of swallowtail coats of 1900s. The front bodice should be constructed without the composition line in order to add embroidery on it. The collar, which shape looks like long half moon, should form V-shape neckline in the front breast when adjusting dress. The sleeves should be constructed top and down, and it should curve more than the modern design.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권5호
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• pp.481-493
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• 2005

Reason for contemporary ethnic-look's remarkable world popularity is viewed as due to counteraction of disordered world conditions such as war, terror, and economic depression. These conditions led people to desire the returning to primitive human society where freedom and peace are preserved. The background of ethnic look emergence is influences of post-modernism, eastern and western culture hybrid, and ecology. This study will mainly focus on the analysis of present ethnic fashion trend and, with following to this, their images will be analyzed and categorized. The result of ethnic trend, especially that of Asian's and African's, from 2000 to 2005 is like this: representative Asian ethnic fashion tendency is focusing on Japanese and Chinese. In Japanese style, oversized silhouette was derived by Kimono and wide belt was appeared by influence of Kimono's Obi. Chinese ethic style are analyzed as adapting feministic silhouette and details from Chinese traditional clothes, Chipao. Additionally, in some of the Chinese ethnic-look, there are mixtures with Japanese, North American, and African's images. Mixing with pop images and ancient ones are also emerged. In the African ethnic look, people used colorful cloth and new materials which is considered as integration of primitives and modern science. From the study, it is possible to conclude that current modern ethnic fashion can be defined as blends with one country's image to the other, mixture with new technology, and acceptance to the multi-national folk fashion. These trends are widely revealed and extended in the world fashion. In the following result of the analysis, there were four outstanding images lying underneath in the present ethnic-look. That is eclectic, traditional, natural, and mysterious images.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.744-757
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• 2021

This study aims to develop a bodice and a jacket in 3D of the late 19th to early 20th based on the pattern drafting book of Gordon S. S., which contains body measurement method and pattern drafting system. The findings of this research are as follows. First, female tops of the late 19th to early 20th century are categorized as outer, jacket, vest, and bodice. Of these, this study highlights the jacket, which can be divided into 4 types: 4 kinds of basic jacket, 2 kinds of riding jacket, bolero jacket, and newmarket jacket. Second, by referring to Gordon's pattern drafting system and book, a bodice was developed in 3D format based on the adherence to the following steps: analysis of the pattern drafting system, pattern drafting, 3D virtual simulation, 3D virtual fitting analysis, and the pattern correction. A bodice pattern corrected by 3D virtual clothing simulation results was proposed. Last, a basic sleeve and collar pattern for a basic jacket was drafted, which was followed by the correction and transformation of the bodice pattern. The jacket developed shows great fit except for the issues at the armhole line and shoulder, which were caused by the unique shape of the sleeves(big sleeve head) of the time. The study attempted to develop the past costumes in 3D, providing the basis for interdisciplinary research in the field of fashion history field and suggesting a new approach for the virtual restoration of costumes. Future studies should target to 3D virtual simulation in accordance to the 3D avatar pose in the developed virtual costume.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.62-86
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• 1970

A study on the upper garment of Korean women, JUORI The upper garment of Korean women. JUGORI, is an inherited mode from the ancient clothing style in the various aspects based on the particulars of Korean clothes. The ancient style of clothes is originated from KWAMDUI belonging to inhabitants of Northern Territory of Korea. And it is quite different from Chinese clothes in lineage. However, this unicque mode of clothes has been much influnced by the Chinese culture and also by the climate of Korea. And it is quite different from Chinese clothes in lineage. However, this unicque mode of clothes has been much influnced by the Chinese culture and also by the climate of Korean penynsula. The changes of the pattern of JUGORI, in a word, is a sign of shortening tendency of size. This tendency of JUGORI is remarkably seen in the shortening of length and other parts are decreased in size. The JUGORI in the ancient age was fallen below the weist of woman, which is similar to Robe, and was worn with band. However, the length of the JUGORI has been gradually shortened, and therefore, GORUM took place of the band. The shortening tendency of JUGORI is seemed to be shown its sign in the initial time of its origin, because there are some evidences that the women in Sylla Dynasty, and this tendency has been much expedited during the period of Koryu Dynasty with influences of Monggorian culture (Won Lynasty of China) The oldest sample for data of JUGORI in nowaday is one the remains of Yi Dynasty, and this sample for data provides all the particulars of the modern pattern of JUGORI. The tendency of JUGORI had been continued even in Yi Dynasty, and at the end of the Dynasty, the clothes was shortened that the women felt inconvenient wearing it in the status of the shortened JUGORI which was even hardly cover the initial time of epoch of modernization induced from the Western civilization, and after 1920s and 1930s JUGORI become a larger tendency. This is a sing of revival of practical use and rationalization of JUGORI become a shortening tendency again, and the size is similar with that of early age of Yi Dynasty. Instead of these similarities, the particulars of modern JUGORI is weighing on much emphasis on curve beauty and expression of experior beauty. The reason is that, together with westernization of clothes, JUGORI became a special pattern of clothes as a traditional Korean women wears. The very thing explaining this pattern of JUGORI is the "ARIRANG DRESS". And there are some fashion using button instead of GORUM and half sleeve JUGORI for summer use which is regarded as a part of improved aspect of life in Korea. in Korea.