• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.56-68
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• 2016

Popular culture has symbolic meaning and has been constructed through different mass media. Newspapers played a significant role in 1950s and 1960s public culture. In particular, editorial cartoons in newspapers expressed social aspects of the age implicitly through satire and criticism. This study examines delivered culture by reflecting the past social aspects and inquiring on clothing featured in the editorial cartoon "Gobau". As for a research method, literature research was conducted on clothing of the age with a review of "Gobau". As for a research range, examination was done based on the complete works of Gobau composed of 5 volumes published as a first edition by Hankookmunhwasa on November, 1973. Early "Gobau" cartoons from 1951-1963 were published in 5 volumes; therefore, research was conducted for the era from 1950s to the early 1960s. Clothing expressed in "Gobau" were reviewed, classified into formative characteristics and internal meaning. Internal meaning was examined by dividing into the expression of social aspects and criticism of society. The research findings are as follows. First, clothing in "Gobau" reflected characteristic in direct manner. There was a coexistence of Hanbok and western-styled, clear distinction between men's trousers and women's skirt. Besides, various kinds of women's western-styled dress appeared in the 1960s. Second, they showed the dress culture that reflected past social aspects. Many aspects were included to reconstruct old and worn clothes due to scarce resources after the Korean War, and cherishing clothes, buying fabric directly to making clothes, making clothes from dressmaking shop, and restrictions on imported goods and luxury items. Third, the study also examined the social norms for fashion. It contained negative perspectives on women wearing pants, short skirts, and new hair styles (like perms) from western culture as well as lipstick.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.68-75
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• 2008

Demands and attempts to express Korean traditional beauty are increasing. Some schools choose the uniform in designs expressing the image of Hanbok, but recently there is a few increment of wearing the uniforms. For the improvement of the uniforms, first of all, the shape and the clothing materials of the uniforms should be considered. We have compared and analyzed the shape and the clothing materials of the uniforms reflecting the image of Hanbok, according to seasons and clothing items. The uniforms reflecting the image of Hanbok were worn in eight schools and all of them are Saenghwal Hanbok style. The shape of Saenghwal Hanbok school uniforms showed both Korean style and western style characteristics. Korean style characteristics were expressed through the appearance-related parts while western style characteristics showed through the performance-related parts such as open/closure method, armhole pattern and straight sleeve line. It was shown that girls' uniforms are more diverse and similar to the western style uniforms than boys' uniforms. It was found that most of the clothing material were synthetic fiber or mixture of natural/synthetic fiber, and polyester was shown to be used most.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.121-133
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• 2004

This study is about japanese national suit. women's standard dress, and mompe, which were used as a means of controlling people's life and simplifying people's clothing during the chinese-japanese war(1937) and the pacific war(1941-1945). National suit was a semi-military uniform for men and it was the western style suit composed of jacket, under shirt, and pants. National suit was not popular during the early war, but it became popular afterward. Women's standard dress had the two kinds of styles : the kimono and the western style. Women's standard dress was not popularly distributed. Instead, many japanese women wore mompe, the active wear of standard dress. Almost all of japanese women wore mompe by the end of war because of its practical use. The effects of national suit, standard dress, and mompe on the rapid westernization of postwar japanese clothing can be summarized as follows. First, national suit and standard dress contributed to the official acceptance of the western clothes as japanese daily clothes. Second, national suit, standard dress, and mompe changed the traditional view of japanese on clothing and caused the rapid westernization of japanese clothing with the high emphasis on the practical and functional use of clothing. Especially, as japanese women wore mompe as the outer garment, mompe affected the view of japanese on women's body and it served as an important stimulus to speed the westernization of japanese women's clothing.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.64-64
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• 2003

In these days western costume became everyday clothing in most of countries and is expected to be remained in that way. Therefore, it is needed to analyze how the past western costume has expressed human body stereoscopically up to the present time in order to predict future style of costume and develope various costume designs. Additionally, the pattern making and needlework techniques that were achieved through investigating history of costume in aspect of Clothing Construction, will provide significant information and inspiration to not only amateur designers but also costume researchers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.3 s.39
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• pp.239-250
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was primarily aimed at the revealing changes in the aspects of women's clothing derivationed with the women's self-consciousness, liberation movement, women's suffrage and social participation from the mid-l9th century to the mid-20th century. According to the study, the main change of western women's costumes were eradication of corset, emergence of troussers and tailored suit, and transformation of sportwear. So that, women's liberation movement has an deep effect on leading up to a change tendency the functionalization and masculinization of women's costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.433-445
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• 2017

This study uses a macro-viewpoint to investigate how female world leaders' clothing behaviors are different by nation and culture. This study conducted a comparative study on clothing behavior by cultural block in order to understand similarities and differences based on Hofstede's cultural dimensions theory. The findings are as follows. First, the clothing styles of female world leaders are categorized into classical suit style, national traditional style, and eclectic style. Second, classic suit style is more often found in countries characterized by high individualism, low power distance index, and low avoidance index. The style represents individual activity and rationality as well as trust towards women acting in men's roles. Third, a national traditional style is found in countries featuring high collectivism, high power distance index, and high uncertainty avoidance index. These countries share a culture that emphasizes harmony with the whole, rather than any one given part; consequently, clothing style represents a national identity (or the roles as a national member) rather than that of the individual level. Fourth, an eclectic clothing style is expressed in a mixture of classical suits and a national traditional style that depends on how much Eastern and Western cultures are reasonably compromised or Eastern tradition and Western culture coexist.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.679-690
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to comprehend western style in fashion and to contemplate the hybrid tendency reflected on western style, thereby to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of the hybrid tendency of western style. For such purposes, this study first examines western style historically, in order to analyze hybrid tendency reflected on western style, and conduct a case study by analyzing photographic materials of pr t- -porter collection since 1980s. The result of this study is as follows: the hybrid tendency reflected on western style are modification and fusion of regional culture, adaptation and composition of subcultures, and appropriation of sexual minority culture. (1) Modification and fusion of regional culture is expressed in ethnic items and patterns of embroidery, mixing Mexican and Spanish, American Indian and American cultural references. (2) Adaptation and composition of subcultures emphasize traditional or vintage western style by mixing characteristics of western and other subcultures. (3) Appropriation of sexual minority culture is expressed in rhinestone chaps and fetish corset, glitter rodeo suit, reminiscent of drag or queer cultural references. The result of this study will provide basis which can be utilized in the development and educational background of fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.133-149
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• 2005

Western designers have long been inspired by exotic and mysterious looks and feelings of non-western countries in their design works. The influence of Orientalism has been prevalent not only in fashion but also in overall aspects of Western cultures ad it dated back to the B.C period. Orientalism has been interpreted differently in different ages. Orientalism has been in effect since the strong emergence of Western powers beginning in the 13th century. There have been produced many studies to analyze the tradition of Western fashion under the framework of Orientalism, but most of them have focused on women's wear and the researches on men's wear have hardly been productive, particularly on men's skirts. This paper aims to analyze the restoration movement of men's skirt fashion in Western societies such as tin America and European countries from the standpoint of Orientalism and attempts to forecast its future. The paper shows how we can reveal the identity of the tradition of men's skirt in Western fashion by making a critical comparison between the pictures of western men's skirts and those found in the folk fashion tradition in non-western countries.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.510-520
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• 2000

Despite the important of qualitative research method, little is used to understand dress and culture in Korea. This study proposed qualitative research method to understand deeply cultural aspects of dress. The articles which were selected from J. of Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, The Korean Society of Costume, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Home Economics Research Journal, published master's thesis and doctoral dissertation, and interdisciplinary articles were analyzed from 1977～1999. Based on results of the analysis of articles, it was found that qualitative research method was appropriate to understand dress and culture. Many articles were dealt with non-western culture. However, the use of qualitative research method is very well suited to help the researcher understand concepts that are deeply embedded in western culture. Implications pertain to researcher in the area of human behavior and marketing. The importance of dependability and credibility was discussed in qualitative research method.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.407-426
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• 1996

The study, "a semiotic analysis on 1930′s costume", is based on semiotic theory which analyze the meaning of signs. In the novels, "흙" and "삼대", character′s costume were used as a visual language that implies massages of character′s status, class, and the view of value. Analyzing the meaning of clothing signs, clothing could deliver the people′s informations to others and could be first things when people accept new value. The object of the studies are the novels, Hulk(흙) and Samdae(삼대) which are written by lee, Kwang-Soo and Yeom, Sang-Seob. In the novels, the social structure is classed as modern and traditional after we accept the western cultures and institutions. The traditional clothing, Han Bok, were dressed by the conservative woman. However, we could find the modernized woman dress with the western dress and the modified traditional style. According to the result of the research, we could find that clothing could be a sign which indicates value and also clothing is one of the first thing to change when people acquired new value.