• 복식
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• 제37권
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• pp.163-180
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• 1998

In western clothing, woman's body was port-rayed sexually as the distinction of sex was appeared, and the parts of body contain some kind of symbol of sex. Woman's body was diversly accentuated according to the divers ideal beauty concepts pursuits in the different periods. Today, in a Post-industrial Society whose social structure is very divers and complicated, the interpretation of woman's body reveals so various as the complex social structure. The purpose of this study is to comprehend the various interpretations of woman's body in the contemporary clothing. The concrete purposes of this study is as follows. First, this study is to define the concept of natural body and built body by differentiating the parts of body and searching for the sexual symbols accentuated in the western clothing. Second this study aims to review, the histori-cal process of prejudged distinction of sex in the western clothing, and to analyse the con-temporary sociocultural which forced to change this prejudged distinction of sex. Third, on the bases of this analses, this study also aims to present various interpretation on divers aspects of woman's body portrayed in the contemporary clothing. The interpretation of woman's body in the contemporary clothing were as follow. First, it is a body interpreted as a natural and neutral body which is based not so much on prejudged division of sex as on the expression of the body structure. And, it is a decomposed and recomposed body which is based on plastic principles. This body is portrayed by a layer-ing and wrapping which interrogated such traditional symbols of western clothing as collar, sleeve or trousers, skirt, etc. Second, it is a sexually symbolized body. This body is display-ed by exposure or sexual accentuation in the clothing. To conclude, a body interpreted in the contemporary clothing is no more a body accentuated by division of sex, but a body which per-mits indefinite hypotheses and interpretations under synthetic imagination.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.13-26
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• 2019

In this study, Western-style first birthday clothing for girls from online shopping malls was explored. Specifically, clothing types, forms, colors, textiles, prints/patterns, and trimmings were examined. Using the keyword dol bok (meaning "first birthday clothing") and the search engines Naver and Daum, online shopping malls that sell or rent Western-style first birthday clothing for girls were found. From 15 online shopping malls, 317 dresses, 76 outers, and 69 bonnets were analyzed. The one-piece dress was the main item of Western-style first birthday clothing for girls. Most first birthday dresses were white or ivory in terms of color; other common features were the bell silhouette, a high waistline, a midi- or knee-length skirt with multiple layers, and bow trimming. The upper bodices of dresses featured round necklines without collars and sleeves, and the main textiles used for dresses were satin, lace, organza, and tulle. Two main types of outers were jackets and capes. Most outers were white or ivory and waist-length or shorter, with elbow-length or longer sleeves. Outers were typically made of fur, satin, and lace. Most bonnets were also white or ivory in color, made of satin and lace, and decorated with ribbon ties and frills/ruffles. Because a precedent study indicates that a monochromatic color scheme was the least favorite and that consumers want a proper fit and length-adjustable design, conclusions of this study point to the need for color diversification; color combinations for two-piece dresses, outers, and accessories; and lacing or shoulder snaps instead of zippers.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.211-223
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine aspects of education, social activity, and sense of values in new women, categorizing the clothing habits into hair style, new modes and accessories on the basis of those. and to find out the influences of new women's attirement on clothing habit of general women, centering of 「Beol Geon Gon」 which made its first appearance in November 1926 and issued till June, 1934. First, new education became good opportunity to face and adopt new style of clothes. The school uniform of western style worn under the education system operated missionaries and clothes of returning students from studying abroad became a chance for general people to meet western clothes. Second, various style of western clothing was shown by enlargement of social activity area of new women. In the educational world and active careers such as doctor, journalist. women's libber, convenient clothing was required. The appearance of airwoman and driver showed trends that women's clothing was changing similar to men's clothing. Third, even general women started to adopt western clothes not to be old-fashioned as being threatened and weakened by the vision about marriage and love among new women, and participated in the trends.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권2호
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• pp.224-241
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• 2017

This study considered the change process for Western style shoes in Korea during the time of modernization in the 1920s to 1930s. Western style shoes were one of the items imported by foreigners since the Joseon Dynasty and had a significant impact on Korean dress code. It influence started to spread in the 1900s; however, few high level people wore Western shoes until the 1920s. The trend started to spread through newspaper advertisements and news articles after the mid 1920s. Western shoes such as modern girl and modern boy in the 1930s then entered into Korean culture. Korea under Japanese colonial rule was reorganized on a war footing in the latter half of the 1930s and the main materials for western shoes (cow leather, horse leather and sheepskin) were mobilized as materials for war production; subsequently, new materials using rubber were introduced. The representative material is 'Marine Leather (水産皮革)' and Sharkskin 'Gyoheok (鮫革)' and Whaleskin 'Gyeongpi (鯨皮).' Form is like the material has changed over time. This study also observed the flow of westernized Korean modern shoes as well as analyzed the details of materials and shape of western shoes by period. This represent basic materials to understand the legacy of western shoes in the age; in addition, systemic summary is organized by each kind, shape and materials for each style of western shoes.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.117-124
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• 1978

The costume, considered as a manner of clothing, represents the distinctive character of a country, of an epoch, of a personage; and always it mirrors the vicissitudes of human civilization. It is interesting to study the costume of ancient Western Asia, its civilization and culture were transmitted to Egypt and Greece. The results obtained are as follows: 1. Loin clothes, tunics, wraps were in Western Asia. 2. Sleeves and Trousers has been the great contribution to costume. 3. The Art of dyeing, weaving, and embroidering were well known. 4. Tassels and Fringes were used in Western Asia. 5. Egypt and Greece were affected by Western Asia.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 1984

An attempt was made to determine individual thermal resistances of 2-lining fabrics ad 4-outer fabrics for Korean-styled clothes, and 4-lining fabrics ad 5-outer fabrics for Western-styled clothes at $19^{\circ}C$ and $24^{\circ}C$. The thermal insulation effects for different lining fabrics in Korean and Western-styled clothes were deduced in determining heart rate, rectal temperature, mean skin temperature and microclimates of subjects. The subjects were dressed experimental clothing which were made of lining and outer fabrics in question, and seated in an environmental chamber during the experiment. 1. Thermal resistances of lining fabrics : For Korean-styled clothes. nylon sheer is larger than unzosa. For Western-styled clothes, rayon, acetate, nylon(taffeta) and kalkali in that order. 2. Thermal resistances of lining fabrics combined : with outer fabrics: For Korean-styled clothes. the measured value is larger than the one of simple aggregate value. But in the case of Western-styled clothes, the measured value is smaller than simple aggregate value. 3. The effects of lining on the thermal insulation of the whole clothing: In case when subjects wore unlimited number of underwear, no matter what lining fabrics were used in Korean and Western-styled clothes less thermal insulation effects were indicated. For the case, however, if subjects wore only limited underwear, there are significant differences of thermal insulation between experimental clothings.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.31-41
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• 2013

By researching Western equestrian clothing, this study investigated the process in which styles of menswear are introduced into women's sportswear. In addition to women's equestrian clothing shown in paintings and illustrations kept in overseas museums, this study also analyzed books addressing 200 years of Western dress style history, from the late $17^{th}$ century to the $19^{th}$ century. The analysis data present the design characteristics of women's equestrian clothing according to different periods. A total of 21 works were used as research data: two from periods prior to the $17^{th}$ century, three from the $17^{th}$ century, ten from the $18^{th}$ century, and six from the $19^{th}$ century. The research results show that items of trendy menswear were commonly used in women's equestrian clothing during the late $17^{th}$ century - to be specific, in all forms of clothing worn on the upper body, including coat and cravat, tricomhat, and accessories. Women's equestrian clothing after the $18^{th}$ century took the form of menswear. However, the uniform was also generally worn with a fitted, tailored redingote on top of the robe, along with pants. In the $19^{th}$ century, women's equestrian clothing became longer in length, like men's styles. The uniform gradually lost volume, and the jacket became shorter and narrower. In addition, the drawers were replaced with pants that came down to the ankles, which were similar to men's trousers. Breeches also became knee - length, thus following the style of menswear. These results show that women's equestrian clothing, worn during horseback riding, a sport previously enjoyed by Western aristocrats, were similar to what men wore. Also, in contrast to the distinct differences seen between men's and women's daily clothing, the equestrian uniforms of women showed a tendency to follow the clothing style of men.

• 복식
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• 제18권
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• pp.195-210
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• 1992

The present research analyzed the social meaning of Korean clothing in women's magazine. The data were included the advertisements and publicity related to Korean clothing in two women's magazines and condensed at 5 year intervals with content analysis. The identified 276 advertisements and publicity were categorized into four areas. The categories were the trend of exterior growth of advertisements and publicity, appeals and approach, the elements of advertisements and publicity including background, the relation of models, situations, and styles of Korean clothing over times. The results of the study were as Follows: 1. In conjunction with external growth of advertisements and publicity of Korean clothing, the social meaning of Korean clothing has changed from ceremonial clothing to daily-wear clothing. Especially since 1980, the theme of advertisement and publicity of Korean clothing were changed form the beauty of traditional Korean clothing such as grace of dignity to the individuality which was the typical value of western Clothing. 2. The trends of appeals related to Korean clothing and applied Korean clothing have reflected the changing time and society. Since 1980, the emotional or mixed approach with metaphor have increased, whereas factual or situational approach were dominated in 1960s and 1970s. 3. The styles including silhouette, detail, textile and pattern of Korean clothing and applied Korean clothing also reflected the changing trends of Korean society. Especially since 1980, the applied style of Korean clothing has adopted the trends of western clothing. Implications for the future research were suggested.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권8호
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• pp.1131-1138
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• 1999

The objective of this study was to investigate the relationship between women's clothing westernization and the economic development in Korea. The data were obtained for the Korean women's clothes and analyzed by the linear regression method. The results were as follows: First western clothing style was adopted first for the street wear and then for the casual home wear. Second the per capita GNP as a proxy of the economic development was shown to affect the weaternization of Korean women's clothing significantly. The Korean treditional clothing was disappeared as the per capita income went up. These results support previous anthropological studies on the westernization and the economic development following industrialization. Also this quantitative study shows one way to prove Bell's hypothesis and will be of use to the economists as well as the clothing researchers.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권5호
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• pp.125-135
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the present state of e-business according to the establishment year and the sales approach of Dongdaemun clothing market and to present problems according to e-business activation of it and its developmental direction. The subjects for this study were selected out of Dongdaemun clothing markets being considered as more fashion-oriented markets and were divided into two categories both according to the establishment year and according to the sales approach. As a result, Dongdaemun clothing markets are mainly divided into traditional wholesale market, eastern wholesale & retail market, and western retail market and having dealings with each other according to the market's characteristics. The utility percentage of on-line e-business according to the establishment year and the sales approach showed that traditional wholesale market was 42%, eastern wholesale & retail market 0.75%, and western retail market 11%. This result indicated that the utility percentage of traditional wholesale market showed much higher than eastern wholesale & retail market and western retail market. This would be because the structural characteristics of clothing market delayed the utility of e-business. For the problems on the utility of on-line e-business through counselling, traditional wholesale market showed much higher than wholesale & retail market and retail market because it had little problems on design imitation in retail market due to export by order and mass production. The problems of low utility of on-line e-business in Dongdaemun clothing market would result from well-timed on-line update according to rapid goods cycle, constant satisfaction for additional order, standardization of size and quality, and inexpensive internet purchase despite of express expense.