• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.2
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• pp.35-50
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• 1978

This paper is an observation on the woman's warming hoods such as Nambawi, Pungchae, Ahyam, Jnbawi and Gullae worn form 1800's through 1930's. At the late era of Chosun dynasty, The every day lifes of people were greatly influenced by invasion of western world, in particular the styles of clothing are changed from original one to Western-like. So the hoods of our own's were dissappcared gradually, and the interests of them were reduced accordingly by the western culture invaded. Therefore this paper is intended to participate in the study of clothing culture by considering of hoods, one of the almost disappeared clothes, and review the wisdom and sense of beauty of our ancestor by unique ornament. The warming hoods in this paper are from a category of ear-protection gear and also deformed from man's one. The ear-protection gear was a warming hood from Tae Jong, the king of the early era of Chosun, and usage classifications of them were strict according to the class division at the early and mid era of Chosun, but generally diminised at the late era, thery were used freely, but the differences in decorations represented the division of the rich and poor. General feature of it is open top, but covers all of head and is used for warming clothes, with has many decorations on it, this decorative tendency was more clear at the late era. Namely, the shape had been modified from tough one to modish one, and fur, the material of it, are from stiff and long to soft short and well refined. This warming hoods were used until 1930's then disappeared by the population of western mufflers and wraps. Jobawi is now already forgotten even its name except for the ornament in picturing the baby in first birth day. In revewing the consideration of warming hoods mentioned. It is found that the subtlety of the ancestor, and there are supplication for the happiness of life even in the decorations.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.57-75
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• 1992

The purpose of this study was to survey the actual condition of education on the western clothing construction in Home Economics and Housework curriculum of high school. And the finding of this study will the helpful to the persons in authority who take part in the course of compilation of the western clothing contruction. The subjects of this study were 101 high school teachers in Chonbuk province. Their responses to the questionaires were analyzed by frequencies and percentiles. The major findings of the study were as follows. 1. Most high school had only a little educational facilities for learning of clothing construction of, if any, they could only show examples in practice. 2 In case of making clothes, students who sew by hand carried out drafting and cutting on their desks in the classroom. When they have practical training, 56.4% of them cheese only one of one-piece dress trousers, and skirt which are presented in the textbook. The related teachers indicated that content composition of the texbook was not fit for the purpose of the students level, and also pointed out the deficiencies of educational facilities, lack of teacher’s research and training, and lack of school hours of evaluation, practical skill was performed in parallel with paper-test at 73.3%. 3. Pajamas and one-piece dress presented in the textbook were the most suitable for the practice at 64.7%. They hoped that illustrations in textbook are so large and full that clothes made through the practice can be worn. Also they hoped that their opinions and wearable guidance will be reflected in the textbook. They emphasized the need of western clothing construction unit because of acquistion of elementary knowledge. The current amount of content composition was enough or excessive. In addition, they understood the curriculum of high school is rather closely connected with that of middles school. Their recognition of the rate of difficulty is very similar to that of other school teachers. They recognized the goal of learning should be applied to the real home life.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.14
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• pp.145-165
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• 1990

This study examine closely conditions of costume between the Modernized period and Liberation with newspaper materials. Because newspaper generally appear society conditions in those days on rapid and across-the boad basis. The Modernized period is extremely change among history of costum (ordinance prohibiting top knots, allowance of foreign clothes putting on). Because this change have been spontaneously not by internal desired but Western input by the strong nation of imperialism to enclose Chosun, they was accepted by the general public later under the rule of Japaneses Imperialism. Consequently, study of costume play an important part periods between the Japanese annexation of Korea and Liberation. This study apply to newspaper characteric for costume, and closely examine an important costum condition of those days next time, and present costume material in those days that composed the account catalog appeared periods between the first publication(1920) of the Dong A II Bo, and in the year 1945, it is as follows. 1. Foreign clothes of men generally accept the general public on look at from form change, in the 1920's had come short Jackets and narrow throusers into fashion, in the 1930's had come trousers of generous waist band with broads shoulder and long Jackets. Catalog of Major clothes is as follows; Spring coat, Jacket, Vest, Shirt, etc. While pants had come trousers into fashion 2. Functional characteric of Foreign clothes was the possible acceptance of women's foreign clothes. It relate with much discussion to improve Korean development in those days and substitute foreign clothes for Korean clothes because of institence in those days to improve functional clothes life. 3. An improvement women's Korean clothes generally take aim at women's nipple liberation, substitute vest waist for skirt waist, appear seamless one-piece skirt of shade length, and long dress length of Jacket. 4. Children's clothes give an account of functional and sanitary conditions, handling method, washing method. 5. Clothes materials give account of foreign clothes material, artificial silk, furs, cotton fabrics, and etc. 6. Clothes management give an account of washing, keeping method, washing method of foreign clothes, and keeping of furs. 7. The hair generaly had come short hair into fashion in men's case, while accounts on long hair fashion of foreign nation effect in case of women. 8. Describing on beauty care manage primary beauty care, reform, plastic operation, and shade beauty care. Ideal beauty care deal with natural and dignified buauty care. 9. Accesaries (hat, handbag, handkerchief, gloves) change with fashion of clothes, it rapid more than clothes fashion. 10. On encouragement of abolition of white clothes and putting on dyeing clothes, because of economic defect of white clothes, psychology and beauty consequently, white clothes is on the rise abolition. In national level almost substitute dyeing clothes for control and improvement of people of all social standings consequently, dress and its ornaments conditions in those days analyzed account of Dong-A II Bo accept the foreign clothes that introduced internal country of the whole century, and substitute dyeing for white clothes. Costume condition in those days appear the mixed conditions of Korean clothes and Foreign clothes. In the 1920's is the first consideration dress and its ornaments form of Korean clothes. As later goes on foreign is given much weight in the whole clothes life. Account of foreign clothes managemental ways appear in the 1920's, while those facts prove the point that appeared the account that always dealed with concrete content of foreign fashion in the 1930's.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.183-199
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• 1995

Among many different approaches of study of history of Kokuryo clothing culture, this study attempted to understand the costume by including political , militarial , economical , cultural , and religious aspects of Kokuryo society. It also included pictures in mural tumbs and old studies in Kokuryo costume. Clothing culture related to political life clearly differenciated social status by restricting styles and colors of clothes according to peoples social status. Generally people in high social status wore clothes with detailed decorations invariety of colors, and also used more fabrics than people in low social status. Costume was also affected by military life style that needed to meet the vigorous physical activities. High rank worriors wore iron scaled shielded clothes with red decoration on it which identified different ranks of the worriors. Economy also contributed it role to affect the clothing styles in Kokuryo. Based on old studies of costume, this study focused on people's life styles that included hunting and weaving . Hunting clothes were differentiated by decorating wit feathers . Jowoguan(조우관) is one of the examples. Since weaving was a major economic power or factor, silk and flax were very popular. People even used those fabrics to pay tax. Regarding cultural aspect , this study emphasized on song and dance wear along with active wear. Song and dance wear specially decorated with poka dots, however men and women wear were claryly distinguished. Unlike other clothes that were restricted in colors and styles, song and dance wear were decorated in variety of colors. Lastly this study presents religious aspects of Kokuryo costume . Monks wore black clothing (내의) that was influenced from China and the Western Regions(서역). To emphasize their religious power, Gods in the pictures of mural tumbs wore clothes with wings and feathers. God of fire and agriculture wore simple dresses without much decorations which represented simple life style of working class.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.185-199
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• 1995

Among many different approches of study of history of Kokuryo clothing culture, this study attempted to understand the costume by in-cluding political, militarial, economical, cul-tural, and religious aspects of Kokuryo society. It also included pictures in mural tumbs and old studies in Kokuryo costume. Clothing culture related to political life clearly differenciated social status by restricting styles and colors of clothes accord-ing to peoples social status. Generally people in high social status wore clothes with detailed decorations in variety of colors, and also used more fabrics than people in low social status. Costume was also affected by military life style that needed to meet the vigorous physi-cal activities. High rank worriors wore iron scaled shielded clothes with red decoration on it which identified different ranks of the worriors. Economy also contributed its role to affect the clothing styles in Kokuryo. Baseed on old studies of costume, this study focused on people's life styles that included hunting and weaving. Hunting clothes were differentiated by decorating with feathers. Jowoguan is one of the exemples. Since weaving was a major economic power or factor, silk and flax were very popular. People even used those fabrics to pay tax. Regarding cultural aspect, this study emphasized on song and dance wear along with active wear. Song and dance wear specially decorated with poka dots, however means and womens wear were claryly dis-tinguished. Unlike other clothes that were re-stricted in colors and styles, song and dance wear were decorated in variety of colors. Lastly this study presents religious aspects of Kokuryo costume. Monks wore black cloth-ing that was influenced from China and the Western Regions. To emphasize their religious power. Gods in the pictures of mural tumbs wore clothes with wings and feathers. God of five and agriculture wore simple dresses without much decorations which represented simple life style of working class.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.50-60
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• 2001

This study is to clarify the concept of \"Americanization\" among korean modern clothing culture by investigating magazines from 1920s to 1930s. The Americanization of modern clothing culture can be divided to New fashion, Sports-wear, and Cloth improvement. 1. New fashion, Western culture was the main stream of new fashion, and modern boys and girls could bear cultural privileged consciousness. And the spread of modern culture was so fast that exaggerated fashional preference provoked extravagancy and loss of individuality. 2. Sports-wear. Under the rule of Japanese imperialism, initial sports activity was encouraged to regulate colony by principle and order. Through the sports-wear, practicality of clothing, exposure of female body, and the concept of T.P.O.(Time, place, occasion) were introduced. 3. Cloth improvement. The capitalism and modern concept of \"time\" were introduced and promoted maximum productivity. And to increase productivity, imperialist educated conveniency of western clothes and inconveniency of traditional Korean clothes. These could affect Koreans to think themselves a sense of inferiority(uncivilized complex).ncivilized complex).

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.970-980
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• 2011

As a type of intimate architecture, fashion has always mediated the dialogue between clothes and the body, or fashion and figure. This study seeks to inquire the current aesthetic consciousness of the body and dress in Japanese avant-garde fashion and intends to research the features and meanings in the pastiche of Western sartorial convention in Japanese avant-garde fashion in order to examine the changing aesthetic attitude in postmodern fashion. The study investigates subjects of the fashion collections of the turn of the twenty-first century, when pastiche strategies frequently appeared in Japanese avant-garde fashion, through the methodology of literature research and case analysis. The results of the study are as follows: by developing the strategy of pastiche, Japanese avant-garde fashion exposes the defectiveness of the Western idea of the idealized and standardized body for mass productions, thus freeing design from its traditional confinement to the human body. Drawing on the re-conceptualization of the sartorial convention of Western tradition, Japanese avant-garde fashion designers tend to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional Western values built on the balance and symmetry of the body. Through the combination of the past and the present as well as the inner-wear as outerwear strategy, the historical pastiche challenges convention and symbolism, which results in the discord between signifiant and signifi$\acute{e}$ of clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.159-172
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• 2007

For the study on the Latin American culture reflected in fashion designs since 2000, the applications of Latin American culture shown in the four major collections from 2000 S/S to 2005 F/W (110 pieces) and some African designers' collections (157 pieces) have been analyzed and compared in three categories - forms, patterns and accessories. First, in the formal application of traditional clothes, the traditional elements of Indio culture are utilized in both the four major collections (76.8%) and the Latin American designers' collection (77.1%). Quechquemitl, the traditional Indio clothes are utilized in various forms in the four major collections, while the Latin American designers adopt various forms of traditional clothes, such as quechquemitl, camisa and pollera. Second, in the textile design, the patterns from Indio's traditional textile design are utilized in both the four major collections (68.7%) and the Latin American designers's collections (5.6%). The remarkable difference between the Latin American designers and the western designers is that the former like to mix the simple and primitive Indio culture with the colorful Iberian culture, and to utilize various patterns of feather, which is an important symbol in the traditional culture, expressing tradition in the modern touch. On the other hand, the western designers change the primitive and handcraft feel of Indio patterns into colorful ones, or mix the colorful Spanish-style flower patterns with primitive and passionate feel. Third, simple and handcraft feel of Indio accessories are utilized in modern fashion in both the four major collections and the Latin American designers' collections. The most remarkable difference between the two group of designers' collections is that various feather patterns are used in Latin American designers' collection, while the accessories reminding of relics of Maya and Inca are widely used in the four major collections.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.35-48
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• 2009

Therapeutic garments are an undeveloped area and yet they have the potential to generate considerable profit for the fashion industry. In traditional Chinese medicine, there are spots and pathways on the body through which energy flows and practitioners consider that disease results when this energy flow is hindered. Clothes which stimulate the spots can therefore potentially help to cure disease. In addition, clothes are worn every day and can therefore offer prolonged treatment certainly in comparison with other treatments. Obesity is a big problem nowadays and one which is caused by poor energy circulation (according to TCM). A garment which stimulates the spots can assist energy flow and therefore cause the wearer to lose weight. In the process, it can also alleviate side effects of obesity such as diabetes and high blood pressure. The was to stimulate spots include acupuncture, acupressure, moxibustion etc. There are lots of products to press spots which improve energy flow both in the Western and Chinese markets. The basic principle of circulation is in fact the same in both Western and Chinese medicine. However, most of these are products are footwear ones because they can easily provide the necessary stimulation to reduce tiredness and improve circulation. For garments, to press the spots effectively it is best to use tight clothes such as corsets and leggings. The important point is to tighten the body and to make energy flow and yet feel comfortable at the same time. Choice of fabric is therefore an important issue. Although the idea has been introduced, it will be necessary to develop a technique which will allow the necessary amount of pressure to be applied. It could be concluded that this area has a lot of possibility for the future but further research will need to be done before the idea becomes workable.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.441-460
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• 2002

Funeral culture, which came to being along with the death of human beings, has developed through many changes in the background, culture, religion and custome of the times, having variant cultures depending on each nation or era. This study is designed to historically and systematically classify funeral rituals and costumes which have constantly changed in a special funeral culture from ancient times to modern times so as to investigate the features of each age. The researcher worked on Western funeral cultures, focusing on Egypt and Rome of ancient times, Creek times, the Middle Ages, recent and modern times ages, referring to literature, precedent studies, domestic and international technical books, pictures and drawings in relation to death and funeral services. Western funeral rituals were designed for offering condolence to the dead, but also used to show off the status of the mourners and the position of the dead persons. The mourning dress were utilized to indicate mourning in accordance with the colors, materials and the ways of wearing them, serving as a vehicle for showing off one's own status.