• 복식
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• 제50권2호
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• pp.111-123
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• 2000

This study compares architecture with dress, investigates the image of transparency expressed in modern dress, and reveals its modern meaning. That is the purpose for this study. The study results are as follows. First, purity was expressed with simple, white color which has not any exaggeration or decoration, and transparent veils of wedding dress express clean and pure image which represents the original meaning of wedding dress. Second, eroticism conveys being erotic by exposing human body through transmission of light over transparent materials. Eroticism expressed by wearing thin and transparent dress with body-conscious line almost like being nude or emphasizing the sexually curious area in human body. The biggest difference in this study is that eroticism is delivered in dress, but not in architecture. Third, playfulness shows synchronism which recognizes human body with transmission of light over ,linear, transparent materials or recognizes inside dress. Playfulness expressed with location switch between inside and outside, exaggeration, distortion , and emphasis. Forth , openness makes dress atmosphere soft by putting transparent materials over opaque materials, expressed separation from restriction by wearing transparent dress over a naked human body, and expressed open ad free image by expressing human emancipation and freedom. Transparent dress expressed modern human being's sensitivity desire for living with light and joyful mood departing from heavy through, and also open and free image which pursues for freedom of human boedy departing from the restriction of human body.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2001년도 19th International Costume Association Congress
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• pp.59-61
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• 2001

Along with the development of culture, dress of the Chinese people has also evolved over the last several thousand years, transcending its original functions of covering and protecting the body. As a result it has risen to become a complicated system of symbols full of intricate meanings. According to de Saussure's theory of "signs," signs are represented by the elements signified (meaning) (referent) and signifiant (sound) (exponent). "Phoenix crowns" were the headpieces most highly esteemed by women in ancient China. Actually, the name "phoenix crown" points to the fact that the headpiece is adorned with a phoenix design. The history and symbolism of the phoenix crown's use as a headpiece in Chinese weddings spans 1200 years in all, originating in the Qin Dynasty (241-210 BC) as a phoenix hairpin, evolving into the phoenix crown during the Song Dynasty (960-1276 AD), and continuing through the Ming and Qing Dynasties (1644-1911 AD), and the modem republic. It is not simply an ornamental headpiece, but instead represents the thousands of years or rich inner meaning the Chinese attribute to "dragons" and "phoenixes." This paper depicts the glorious past of phoenix crowns, using the metaphor and metonymy theories of semiology and semantics, and through the cross-verification of literature research archeological findings and reports, and old Chinese wedding photographs, in order to examine the inherent meanings of the phoenix crown in the Chinese culture.nings of the phoenix crown in the Chinese culture.

• 복식
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• 제60권10호
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• pp.28-46
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• 2010

Variety and individuality are characteristic of consumer in modern society. For the necessity of new designed men's formal suit is on the rise with advance of party culture and change of wedding style. In addition to growing numbers of Korean grooms are getting more interested in make themselves well-groomed on the wedding ceremony. The purpose of this study is to develop the men's formal suit pattern for right fit and better style for Korean grooms. In order to find out how to modify their fit, comparison among the existing patterns was necessary. In this study we proposed new patterns of men's formal suit, a morning coat, a tail coat, tuxedoes, director's suit, three-peaces suit, navy blazer. Considering the results of this study, developed patterns were altered to fit better and to smarter. They were well graded in waistline position, shoulder shape, back princess line shape. Also they were best to move around sleeve and bodice. And the developed patterns were altered to make armhole narrower to make bodice length shorter, to make bodice slimmer. The researcher's pattern's were made up into garments using wool 100%, silk 100%. According to verify the improvements and grade better in both appearance and comport, it will be to take the lead men's formal dress culture and expand the base of popular consume for men's formal wear.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.661-676
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the periodical change of Korean children's clothing from 1960 to 2000. As valuable historical data, 794 children's clothing in wedding pictures in these periods were collected for this study. Research method was content analysis and frequency, cross table analysis, and ${\chi}^2$ test were conducted for data analysis. The results of this study were as follows. The children's clothing in 1960s had very humdrum and limited design and plain pattern. And most of children in this period wore Western clothes of casual style. In 1970s, children's clothing was enriched in terms of design, pattern, color and ornament. However, clothing design for children was not developed yet, so form of children's clothing in this period was showed as duplication of adult clothing design. In 1980s, The children's clothing was developed with enhancement of the level of living. Various style and sophisticated design were appeared and design and size system for children were developed. With increasement of social interest of leisure and sports, casual style was especially popular in this period for both of children and adult in this period. In 1990, rapid decrease of birth rate resulted in parents' excessive interest and investment for their children. In this effects, children's clothing in 1990s had luxury, various, and individual characteristics.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.86-99
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• 2019

This research is a study on up cycling design to protect nature in order to postpone global warming to the maximum extent possible as it has been a serious global issue to the fashion industry and even to individual consumers. This research focuses on the ways to use wedding dress, one of the clothes made of synthetic fiber, which is a major cause of global warming. Among clothing from the 19th century, two styles of clothes, Bustle style and Art Nouveau style were analyzed ranging from their underwear styles to outwear styles through collections in books and museums. Two styles of dress using drawers, chemise, and corset as basic underwears were manufactured. All the fabric and subsidiary materials except for parts of underwears were made with discarded wedding dresses. It was developed for rental clothing which women could try on Western costume, from underwears to outwears. First, for bustle dress, woman put on basic underwears, then bustle, and bustle-type petticoat. Dress is a two-piece type, and it was made to put on detachable train on the back of skirt. Second, based on the Art Nouveau style clothes, our-glass style dress consists of petticoat, one-piece over drawers, chemise, and corset. After putting on drawers, both chemise, and corset were the same as Bustle Style. This research is a practical way of realizing sustainable design. The aim of the current work is to provide educational effect on the development of rental clothes which upcycle wedding dress and let women experience other cultures.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.25-33
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• 2001

This study is to analyze Korean-Chinese women's Costume in Yabian with factors such as reform opening-up, economic growth, change of social values, development of technology, more education opportunities and influence of mass media. It divides the 1990's into two halves. Photos, interview, observation and relevant literature were used for this study. Even though economy grew rapidly, they needed to purchase daily goods other than clothes. In a way that they preferred practicality, it showed somewhat it was still developing. The trend in the first half of the 1990's was characterized : first, Synthetic or artificial fibers and ready-made suits were popular ; second, there still remained the men's style ; third, they wore Tanrikoo(彈力袴), Tisingkoo(體型袴), Jiaotakoo(脚袴) because of its properties of activeness and comfort ; fourth, shoulders looked ore prominent with pads as they were used in Chungsanfoo(中山服) ; fifth, clothes in grey and dark blue was in fashion ; sixth, they wore hand-made knit vests and sweaters and often mountain-climbing gears for its light and warm quality ; seventh, along with opening-up, various materials and colorful clothes were in style, which satisfied women's desire for beauty. They decorated Hanbok(韓服), using sleeves with colors, golden ornaments, flower patterns embroidery, materials of different color in collar and tie and dyes of sleeves and skirts. In the first half of the 1990's when the opening-up was beginning, there were diverse styles and colors in fashion, yet not close to good quality. As the economy grew, the second half of the 1990's was characterized by good palate, individuality, favouritism on foreign goods, rapid change of fashion. For instance, fur coat and woolen fabric were favored. Economic growth led to abundance of cloth, dyes and decorative materials. In addition, people possessed more clothing and it was possible for them to wear both Hanbok and wedding dress in wedding ceremony. People placed their standards on competency and financial ability rather than ideology. Worship disappeared and individuality arose. Therefore, apparel functioned not only as protection but as suits with aesthetic purpose. This resulted in introduction of bold style, imitation of western countries and extension of use of Hanbok. With the help of mass media, transportation, telecommunication, contact with Korean company and civilians, Korean and western cultures, through Korea, were accepted. Change in structure of economic status caused excessive spending and more educational opportunities that enabled people to accept foreign culture quickly. Values moved onto new, beautiful and better characteristics. it was possible to have suits ready-made due to improvement of mass production and cotten, wool, linen, silk became popular owing to technology. New technology, the bases of mass consumption, increased possession of clothing and accelerated change of fashion. In summary, women's Costume in Yanbian were affected by the factors in economy, politics, culture contact as well as change of society and technology.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.22-34
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to trace and identify the origin and the meanings of the word ho-su(胡袖) of Chosun dynasty period. Findings of this study can be summerized as follows : The original meaning of the word ho-su(胡袖) is a name of round sleeves. Later it was used as a name of a dress with round sleeves. The word ho-su as a name of a dress is an abbrecviated form of ho su so o za(好袖小 子) of a previous period. The word jyo go ri(赤古里) in historical documents is anothor name of so o za(小 子). Wearing the ho-su(胡袖) was restricted to royal family women. It was included in royal women\`s wedding garments as ordinary use. Colors of this dress was used as a means of differentiating the rank and position of the wearer.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.81-96
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• 2014

The meanings of colors vary with time and space. For the most important events in a person's life, such as wedding or funeral, people use color to symbolize their identities or roles. Traditionally, the colors of dress had indicated the wearer's age, class, or marital status in Korea. However, Korea's exposure to western cultures has affected in many dimensions of its modern history. Especially, influenced by social change, the traditional dress has undergone many modifications in forms, silhouettes, materials, and color. However, women's mourning dress has been maintained as a long lasting tradition and the use of white in mourning dress has been regarded as a norm until recently, while men have worn a regular black suit with a black tie. But, the shift from white to black in mourning dress has been observed in recent mourning practices. To examine this change of color in Korean traditional mourning dress, a historical approach utilizing multiple resources, such as interview, observations of events, documents, and archival records was applied.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.231-240
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• 2003

모든 문화가 모두 그러하듯이 옷의 색채, 그 배후에는 그 민족이 몸담고 살아온 자연환경과 그 환경 속에서 화육(化育)화된 인생관이나 근성이 작용하고 있다. 혼례는 두 성(性)이 좋게 합하여 위로는 종묘(宗廟)를 모시고 아래로는 후세를 이루는 것을 널리 사회적으로 인정받는 것이다. 예(禮)에서 기본중에 하나가 복식이다 혼례복에 나타난 색채가 가지고 있는 의미와 상징성은 조선시대의 미(美)와 유기적인 조합으로 잘 나타나 있다. 현재까지도 지켜져 내려오는 전통 혼례복 속에 나타난 오방색의 특징을 찾아봄으로써 통념적으로 알고있는 다섯 가지의 촌스러운 색조화가 아니라 자연환경과 같이 청명하며 화려하고 철학적인 색채임을 분석하고자 한다. 본고는 한국혼례복에 나타난 색채의 특징을 알아보기 위하여 한ㆍ중ㆍ일의 혼례복과 단청을 일 예로써 비교하고 한국 전통 색채의 이론적 배경을 살펴보았다. 이를 통해서 한국색채는 의미론적 상징 색채이며 그 근원은 음양오행에서 출발했으며 도교의 태극도설, 유교의 도참사상과 단청의 색채가 직접 관계가 있음을 알 수 있었다. 이러한 음양(陰陽)의 오채(五彩)가 삼라만상(森羅萬象)을 나타내는 객이고 하나가 아닌 두 가지 색 또는 그 이상의 색채와 연결될 때에 상호작용에 의하여 균형미를 이루는 색채이다. 또한 자연숭배 및 인간존엄 사상이 깃들여 있으며 길복(吉福)을 기원함과 동시에 벽사(僻邪)의 의미를 부여한 것을 알 수 있다. 인간이 복되고 부정함에서 벗어나 우주만물이 조화롭게 이루어지길 기원하는 조형미는 시각적인 만족만이 아닌 정신적인 만족까지도 추구하는 미의식인 것이다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제39권4호
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• pp.1-18
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• 2001

Korea huts been dramatically changed during the last century in many aspect of society, with the introduction of western culture in the beginning of 20th century. This study aims at understanding the changes in our traditional culture shown by costume as well as examining the aspects of the changes of traditional clothing according to age, by comparing the differences of our traditional dress Hanbok between ear1y and the late of the 20th century. Analysis of photographs showing Hanbok of both ages was used. 155 photographs of people wearing traditional Hanbok in the beginning of the 20th century were collected from the photo collection books portraying various living conditions of common people at that time. 748 Photographs of Hanbok worm today were obtained by taking pictures of various occasions like wedding ceremonies in 5 big cities during 1997. The process of analysis consists of 3 stages: setting standards, sorting, and grouping by positioning. The results showed that traditional Hanbok room in the early 20th century has maintained its basic silhouette and design during the century, but the methods of color coordination, ornamentation, construction have underdone many changes in detail. Consequently, traditional frame exits, but actually there are many variations of tradition produced by individual tastes and fashion trend. These changes show that continuing influx of the western culture which has made enormous social changes in Korea had an influence even on Hanbok.