• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.113-128
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• 2013

Those records indicate that Jik-geum Hyoong-bae fabric was imported from China and its period was during the fourteen and fifteen century. Gold threads used in three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae artifacts were all wrapped gold thread and gold thread of Danryeong from Young-dukdong, Yong-in, did not have a base, but instead the gold foil itself was attached to the silk cord. Such form of artifact had never been discovered before in Korea. Wrapped gold thread of Seoknamdong's basis was presumably bamboo paper. Three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae have the same weave structure. The ground is woven in a warp-faced 5-end satin weave. The pattern is brocaded with supplementary gold wefts. Supplementary gold wefts are composed of 1/4 twill binding by the odd number pairs of warps within every group of 10 pairs of warps. All of the Jik-geum Hyoong-bae textile were designed and weaved according to the overlapped collared costume's structure. This is also known as 'Jik-seong-pil-ryo'. One symmetric collared jacket excavated in Seok-namdong, Incheon, only has the right half of Hyoong-bae in the front. This is because symmetric collared jacket was made from overlapped collared costume. Tiger and peacock are the main patterns of Jik-geum Hyoong-bae which have realistic and free screen composition and this shows a huge difference to the later generation's standardized Hyoong-bae pattern.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제9권
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• pp.67-83
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• 2008

국립중앙박물관이 소장하고 있는 청연군주 출토복식(신수751 의류 일괄) 중 織金 및 金箔이 있는 복식의 보존 처리 과정을 소개하고자 한다. 금사 및 금박의 비파괴분석(X-선형광분석:XRF)을 실시한 다음 표면의 금(Au)이 열화가 진행되면서 분상화된 금층에 아교 2%용액을 도포하여 접착력을 강화하였다. 표면의 먼지와 오염물제거를 위해 진공흡입을 통한 건식세척과 분사식 습식세척을 병행하였고 손상부분을 보수하여 유물의 원형을 회복하였다.

• 복식
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• 제63권7호
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• pp.79-93
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• 2013

In the Korean literature, records of systematic gold thread manufacturing such as gold foil(金 箔匠), gold foil bonded with fabrics(付金匠), gold foil bonded with paper materials(金箋紙匠), refining gold(鍊金匠), cutting gold(裁金匠), and making gold thread(絲金匠) can be easily found. We can infer from these literatures that the Korean people used to make gold threads. However, is not existent the gold thread making technique. Thus, a research was done using 67 pieces of gold thread artifacts used in textiles craft of Korea, China and Japan. The purpose of this research was to identify the characteristics of the Korean gold thread by studying the artifacts' form classification, gold foil, glue and the base. First, gold thread is divided into flat gold thread and wrapped gold thread. Wrapped gold thread was made in more various methods such as with a paper on the flat gold thread, metal thread and wrapped gold thread with gold foil on top. Compared to the flat gold thread, wrapped gold thread uses a thread that has a thinner and wider. Through this analysis, even making of the base of the gold threads was different according to the type. Secondly, we looked into the characteristics of materials according to form structure of the gold thread. After analysis of experiment results, we could know that to attach Korean gold thread, glue and the mixture of materials such as Red soil(朱土) was also added. The kinds of the base of gold threads were identified as paper, leather and intestines. Among those materials, for paper, Korea's Dakji, China's Sangpiji(桑皮紙) and Jukji(竹紙) and Japan's Anpiji(雁皮紙) seemed to have all been used, so because of the difference among countries, we can prove that Korea has also produced gold thread. By looking at the research, the base of gold threads and making features hugely vary according to the area.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제32권1호
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• pp.43-49
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• 2016

금사는 금속물로 제작된 실을 의미하며, 다양한 재료와 재질이 혼합하여 사용되고, 제작 방식에 따라 다양한 형태가 구분된다. 같은 형태일지라도 지역에 따라 사용재료가 다르게 나타나기 때문에 금박, 접착제, 배지 등에 대한 기초 자료 조사는 제작기법 및 유물의 제작국가에 대한 정보를 확인할 수 있기에 중요하다. 이에 본 연구는 직금 유물에 사용된 전통 편금사의 접착특성 및 제작기법 분석을 위한 연구를 진행하였다. 지역 및 시대가 다른 직금 유물을 선정하여 시료를 일부 채취하였다. 전통 금사에 사용했을 것으로 추정되는 접착제를 선정하여, 종류별로 표준시료를 제작하였다. 접착제는 아교, 주토 혼합 아교, 옻, 주칠을 선정하였으며, 식물성 배지인 한지 위에 접착제를 바른 후 순금박을 올렸다. 직금유물에서 채취한 금사와 제작한 표준시료를 일부 채취하여 형태 및 무기원소 성분 분석을 하였다. 연구 결과, 편금사는 금박층, 접착층, 배지층으로 구분이 되는 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 표준시료와 비교 관찰한 결과, 아교 및 주칠혼합시료와 형태적으로 유사하였다. 붉은색 접착층에 대한 정성분석 결과 알루미늄(Al), 규소(Si), 철(Fe) 성분이 현미경에서 관찰된 붉은색과 일치함에 따라 전통 편금사는 아교에 주토를 혼합하여 접착제로 사용한 것으로 판단된다. 이러한 사실은 국내 문헌 및 국외사례를 통해서도 확인할 수 있으며, 아교에 주토를 혼합함으로써 발색 및 평활도에서 효과를 얻고자 함으로 사료된다. 또한 이러한 방법은 옻을 접착제로 사용하는 일본과는 달리 중국, 한국에서 공통적으로 관찰되는 제작방법이라는 사실도 확인할 수 있었다.본 연구를 통해 향후 전통 금사의 재현 및 생산기술에 대한 기초 자료로 활용될 것으로 기대된다.

• 복식
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• 제57권10호
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.