• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.58-69
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• 2008

The purpose of this research therefore, was to conduct research on the actual state of manufacturers of cycle wears and the condition in wearing; to present the basic data to develop cycle wears which can lessen the trouble for the human body and an excellent feeling in wearing. For research on the actual state of manufacturers of cycle wears, three domestic companies were grasped. To inquire the condition in wearing, the method of questionnaire was used for 100 peoples consisted of male cycling professional players and ordinary peoples with the same tastes. As the result of research: The manufacturers were targeting for the professional players and men with the same tastes. They produced goods by themselves as well as in the form of subcontract, and they did not classify goods for male & female. Materials they used for cycle wears were mainly composed of jersey with spandex and nylon. The production ratio of cycle wears is shown as 80% for company A, 25% for company B, and 90% for company C. They make a pattern of cycle wears by a technical tie-up with foreign companies, or by the development of their own pattern. As the result of study on the present condition in wearing cycle wears according to each season, it was figured out that the users usually weard short-sleeved T-shirts with dividing zipper for summer upper garment, shorts most preferably for summer lower garment; long-sleeved shirts for spring and fall upper garment, and shorts with incision most preferably for spring and fall lower garment. Also, they usually weard jumpers with incision for winter upper garment, and long pants in which ankle parts of incision were tightened most preferably for winter lower garment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.271-283
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to provide information on how to improving wearing sensation and fit of boots-cut jean through analysis of the actual wearing conditions and dissatisfaction. In order to compile the information about dissatisfaction with the appropriateness of the fit of boots-cut jean, a questionnaire was administered to 150 females(between the ages of 20 and 39) living in Gwang-ju, analyzed using the SPSS WIN 12.0 program. Also, 6 blue jean manufactures were investigated, the study method was a interview about company present status, sizing system and pattern of boots-cut jean. The result of this study were as follow: 1. In wearing conditions, the 20's(51.6%) to 30's(69.1%) is found the best preferred jean is boots-cut style. The reason why consumers prefer boots-cut jeans with wearing fit does to seem charming bodyline of the adult female. 2. Body type groups by drop was classified with the usual waist, the thick waist, the thin waist. The differences among age groups, body type and so on were compared using the chi-square test. Dissatisfaction of the fit of the thick waist and the thin waist was higher than the usual waist. 3. Research on the production sizing system of 6 blue jean brands showed the total sizing system of each manufacture were $3{\sim}9$, they were reflected the sizing system of the korean Industrial Standards(KS K 0051). Therefore, it is considered necessary for boots-cut jeans pattern and sizing system for Korean consumer's body shape.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.636-643
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to establish the proper amount of eases according to the body type of men's bodice basic pattern. The 3 subjects in 30's men were selected for developing fitted pattern for each type. And the results of the wearing test for individual subject by distributing ease amount are as follows. The wearing test is administrated by a division of 12cm, 15m, and 18cm areas respectively after separating the fitted pattern for each type in a vertical and horizontal ways. There exists a significant difference in ease according to the measures of chest circumference of subjects. Also, it is shown that the more comfortable in function, the better visible in appearance as the ease gets proper. As to regions, the amount and ratio of ease chest circumference are increased in proportion to the size of the chest circumference. The scye depth is affected by the ease of chest circumference, while the ease of the interscye and the back breadth are lessened due to the effect of their appearances. And the side breadth is required as a buffer to complement the shortage of the interscye and the back breadth because the ease of either the interscye or the back breadth is partially transferred in motion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.101-114
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• 2007

This research aimed to identify the differences, in terms of the pattern, of using wool and jersey for designing jackets and to provide a theorized solution. The object of this study is development of women's tailored jacket pattern by the traits of fabrics with fabrics those are generally used to develop the power of manufacturing technique about fit of jacket. Basic bodies prototype, graphics of sleeves prototype and graphics of jacket pattern those a clothing company at present(on&on, a brand of Beaucre Merchandising Co.,Ltd) is using were used as basics of tailored jacket pattern. Three kinds of fabric(wool, polyester, jersey) were chosen, we made jackets in the same manufacturing process of the clothing company, modified and made up for the weak points and then we compared and analyzed differences of pattern by the traits of fabrics, the results are as follows: 1) We drafted basic tailored style jacket pattern, made a jacket with wool fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points by the trend, then developed JacketⅠ for study; 2) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with polyester fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket II for study; 3) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with jersey fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket III for study; 4) We presented final degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I II III for study; 5) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket II(Polyester), there was no change of size overall except extra amount which happens because of the trait of the fabric in 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size in 3 items(height of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern; 6) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket III(Jersey) for study, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 11 items(neck point to shoulder point length, Bishoulder point length, back interscye length, front interscye length, armhole circumference, depth of armhole, chest circumference, bust circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, waist dart) among 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 5 items(height of a sleeve, circumference of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve, width of bottom of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.259-282
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• 1999

To analyze the characteristics of Orientalism which is expressed in the fashion of the 1990's this study was examined according to three aspects such as form textiles and pattern and the aspects was considered with regard to Chinese Indian Japanese Korean, Southeas Asian and North African style. 1. In form Orientalism which is influenced by latest other fashion trend; Naturalism and Minimalism is expressed as a comfortable casual style which simplifies the way of wearing and mixes the characteristic elements of folk costume with western costume. The way of layerd wearing like knotting wrapping draping and the symbolic from which is inspired by the unique are of each country are shown. 2. In textiles Chinese Japanese and Indian silk as well as Southeast Asian and North African cotton show a splendid oriental impression using vivid color. On the other hand the linens of Korea like hemp and ramie emphasize natural characteristics and show a simple and unartificial oriental beauty. But in the use of material and color it shows a remarkable tendency to break the preconceived idea by coordinating a luxurious silk with a practical denim or harmonizing technical new-masterials with traditional materials. 3. In pattern the decorative elements of Orientalism such as a traditional pattern skills to dye embroidery and other decorations are emphasized on the form of western costume. The sketchy patterns of Chinese Korean and Japanese styles which include the pattern of a flower a bamboo and a butterfly are expressed using embroidery or textile printing. The geometrical seriate patterns of Southeast Asian and North African styles use traditional dyeing methods like Batik. Also the Indian technique of decoration like Mirro Work satisfies handcrafted royalty and feminine romantic taste in modern minimal fashion. The Orientalism expressed in the fashion of 1990's emphasizes the characteristics of people wearing colthing which break the preconceived idea by simplifying the form harmonizing differences between oriental and western cultures and mixing the elements of traditional costumes among countries. Most of all. Ethno using geonmetrical seriate pattern and technical new metal material and Romantic Ethnic using flower embroidery precious stones and beads are appearing as a distinctinve feature.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.66-76
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• 2017

This study used a virtual wearing system equipped with body shape data with a 3D scanner, based on a female basic bodice, to develop a modified Hanbok Jeogori with high fitness capabilities to provide basic data for the development of the modified Hanbok Jeogori pattern for the academic and industrial fields. In this study, the representative modified Hanbok design which most frequently appeared in broadcasting ads and on line was selected. The wearing test was conducted by six professionals, and three times wearing tests were implemented based on 17 evaluation items. The data for this study was processed statistically using SAS 9.0. We conducted, the F-test for significance verification, the Duncan-test for a post test, and a correlation analysis of Cronbach's alpha coefficient for a reliability test of dressing test results were implemented for each of the three tests. The pattern of the developed modified Hanbok Jeogori overcame the defects of the short length of the conventional modified hanbok, and could fix the length issue. The developed Hanbok pattern solved the overlapping problem of the shoulder, back neck point-sleeve length(Whajang), and armhole, displayed in a straight line from the Godae point of the previous modified Hanbok; it suggested the position of the Seop and neck line in the basic bodice. Based on this, the Seop width, Git form, Goreum and the width, length, and position of the string whose dimensions can differ in accordance with the trend can be applied in various forms.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.176-183
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• 1997

To develop the bodice pattern of the master size of the established size chart which was suggested in the former studies, the wearing experiment was practiced. According to the result, developed pattern design in this study boys\` bodily characteristics were reflected fully. And especially, New pattern design method was suggested at chest circumference, neck circumference, arm circumference, chest breadth, and center front line. The study results were put into the database in order to apply apparel CAD system, and they could be easily used in standardization work of design pattern.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2020

This study focused on front-blouse-type skirts from the 15th and 16th centuries and aimed to investigate their formative characteristics and wearing patterns. Previous studies, literature, records, paintings, and excavated clothing items were used as research materials. The researcher categorized front-blouse-type skirts into three types based on the construction method. The first has the front-center portion of the skirt folded up, the second has the center portion cut short, and the third has horizontal dart pleats on either side. An examination of 48 items from 18 excavation sites of front-blouse-type skirts showed that only the front-center portion folded up type appeared in the 15th century, and it was only in the 16th century that the other forms of skirts were worn. Finally, based on the analysis, the pattern of wearing front-blouse-type skirts and their changing factors was deduced. Front-blouse-type skirts were identified as ceremonial skirts that were popular in the 15th and 16th centuries among the types of long skirts available. The popularity and usage of this type of skirt began to spread gradually in the 15th century. In the 16th century, various types of front-blouse-type skirts were brought into vogue by the royal family and the external register. It can be inferred that the popularity of front-blouse-type skirts gradually declined in the 17th century as other types of long skirts, folding skirts, and Sran type skirts emerged.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.187-199
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• 2009

Recently, the quality and design of the children's wear is being improved remarkably. Following the trend, the need for the research on the pattern making of children's wear is growing. At first, we tried to find out how the industry is doing the pattern making job through interview. Results are as follows. The target age ranges from 5 to 11 years old. For the sample size of pattern making, 7 years of age is preferred. It is not usual to develop the design pattern from the bodice block pattern. Instead, they use middle block pattern for each item, such as blouse, shirt, pants, skirt or jacket. Starting from these middle block pattern, they prepare individual designs. With the results, the aim of the research became to develop one of most frequently used middle block pattern. The blouse block pattern was selected for that purpose. To look into the existing patterns, we selected 4 methods, i.e. NM-method, T-method, O-method, E-methods. Theses patterns were compared through wearing test for the evaluation of comfort and fit using trial garments. The results indicated the NM-method was best among them. Specially waist line position, shoulder shape and size allowance was adequate. Alteration and adjustment of pattern draft was made onto the NM-method. Allowances for the bust circumference, across chest, across back and depth of arm was adjusted for better comfort as well as fine fit. Sidelines of the bodice and the underarm seam of the sleeves were curved for styling. After another wearing test, the final pattern was suggested as a blouse block pattern for 7 years old girl.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.301-307
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to investigate the problem and complaint of current flight suit derived with the questionnaires. The survey was carried out to the 137 aviators in Army Aviation School from April to May, 2007. The questionnaires were composed of personal characteristics, usage characteristics, wearing characteristics and free comments. Regard to the questionnaires of usage characteristics, they wore the flight suit over 6 hours a day and over 5 days a week. For wearing convenience item in usage characteristics it was revealed that fitness, ease and the location of pocket were not proper, Also, it showed that the material characteristics(e.g. insulation, absorption, and sensation) for flight suit was not proper. Regard to the questionnaire of wearing characteristics, the most inconvenient part is crotch as the answer on the question of "unfitting part in size" and "inconvenient part when wearing". Free comments for the improvement requests are various size, material, stitch strengthening, pattern modifying, and accessories.