• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.235-240
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• 2001

This paper was intended to grasp an effect of body shaping by wearing girdle using moire topography. In wearing test, four type girdle were used, panty type, long leg type, high waist type, long leg and high waist type. Subjects were ten female college student (18-24 years old), they were selected on the size of the hip girth, waist girth that are within 25~75% in percent on the National Anthropometric survey of Korea in 1997. Three-dimentional characteristic of body shaping was analyzed by the moire topograph. As a result, body shaping effect was confirmed by moire pattern and horizantal section map. In case of the comparison through the moire topography, all the subjects have an effect on body shaping in part of waist girth, abdomen, and hip. Especially backside silhouettes on hip all the ten female subjects showed hip-up effect. Long leg type girdle was smooth side line in the hip and thigh. Further study required for the effect of wearing the girdle on the body shapeability and comfort.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.109-125
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to provide basic data for a more functional torso's pattern by analyzing multidimensional anthropometric measurements and the wearing condition. For the functional torso's pattern drafting, the fitness state of basic torso's patterns(4 types) was compared and evaluated from the cross-sectioned overlap maps by $moir{\acute{e}}$ topography. The results were as follows: 1. According to the measurements of four patterns by using the one-dimensional measurement, the amount of ease in girth item for pattern A was the smallest. The ease of clothes was affected by the position of dart, the amount of dart, and the drafting method. 2. As the results of wearing evaluation by $moir{\acute{e}}$ topography method, pattern B had the largest space length for hip part, pattern A, C and D had the largest space length for bust part. Also, in the all measurement items, pattern A had the smallest amount of ease. The space length for bust and waist part of pattern B was smaller than pattern D, but, for abdomen and hip part of pattern B was larger than pattern D. The space length of pattern C was revealed intermediate for all measurement part. 3. The significant difference of space length of each pattern was shown in all parts except bust part(p<.05). The amount of space was affected by the amount of dart, the characteristics of the somatotype, and the drafting method.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.552-561
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• 2006

This study was conducted to suggest an appropriate jacket bodice pattern for elderly women by comparing the developed pattern with existing ready-made jacket pattern. The developed jacket bodice pattern was produced from the basic sloper in which elderly women's somatotype was fully reflected, by using the newly developed 3D pattern design system. Subjects were 6 elderly women aged from 60 to 69 who have average somatotype in their age group. This study carried out pattern analysis and self-sensory test with three ready-made jackets(national brands) and suggested a developed jacket pattern based on the results. According to the self sensory test results of ready-made jacket, wearing fitness among brands was significantly different even though those brands were same B91 size. The results of ready-made jackets' pattern analysis, size differences among patterns have influenced wearing fitness. The basic numerical formula for the jacket pattern considered elderly women's somatotype were as follows; $B/4+2{\pm}0.2{\sim}0.5$(difference of front and back), $W/4+2{\pm}0.2{\sim}0.5$(difference of front and back), H/4+2~7(ease amount), armhole depth B/4, chest width B/6+1, back width B/6+3 and back neck width B/12+0.5. According to the results of the developed jacket's appearance evaluation, it earned higher scores in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that the developed jacket is appropriate for the elderly women. Also, in the evaluation on space length, the developed jacket pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length in all around of measurement parts.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.59-79
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• 2002

The purposes of the study were to present the optimum slacks pattern for elementary school girls and to compare and evaluate wearing ease of the slacks. 3D scans using the Cyberware PS motion platform were carried out for 3 subjects who have different body type. The automatic drafting method was programmed by AutoLISP in CAD. Wearing tests using 3D Scanner was done for evaluation of fitness of slacks. Regression analysis, analysis of variance and post-hoc test were performed for statistical analysis of the data by SPSS program. The procedure and results were as follows: The slacks construction components for pattern drafting were derived from 10 horizontal section maps obtained from 3D scans. The automatic drafting was based on the measurements of slacks construction components and the curve of crotch line. The crotch line was drafted using of the arc function in AutoCAD. The total crotch length was calculated using the multiple regression equation. Wearing test represented that the slacks pattern developed to accomodate individual body measurements was estimated more highly than existing patterns.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1205-1220
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to verify the change of body posture by putting on the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat. This study analyzed the female somatotype which puts on upper garments of Victorian era with using 3D body scan technology. Two sets of $19^{th}$ century women's bodice and waistcoat patterns were developed with the $19^{th}$ century model size and those patterns were used for making the experimental garments. The fit of experimental garments was evaluated by the degree of change with posture and waist measurements. Three women with the same waist girth measurements with the model size were participated to the fitting test. The postural change was measured from cross-sectional body diagrams. The result of this study showed that the waist measurement of the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice and waistcoat pattern was smaller than the waist girth measurement. These garments compressed the midriff of the body and it made women's distinct body silhouette. The waist girth measurement of 1876 bodice pattern was 9.2cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 5.0~6.1cm after wearing the 1876 bodice garment. The waist girth measurement of 1880 waistcoat pattern was 7.1cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 2.7~3.7cm after wearing the 1880 waistcoat garment. The back side parts of their waist were compressed and their postures were changed. The neck and shoulders were moved forward after wearing the experimental garments. These results showed that body posture could be changed to "S" shape silhouette as wearing the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.8
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• pp.1125-1136
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• 2000

Fitness of clothes becomes a major concern in apparel industry. Development of basic patterns will enhance the fitness of clothes. But there are few slacks patterns for the middle-high school girls. So girls had difficulties to buy ready-made clothes of good fit. To solve this problem, it is necessary to develop basic slacks patterns. The purposes of this study was to develop basic slacks patterns based on the analysis of lower body types. 4 girls were selected among 402 anthropometric measurement subjects who are 13 to 15 year-old for the wearing tests. The result of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. Analysing the replicas of lower body surface by using gypsum method, slack patterns were developed. 2. Wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that the developed slacks pattern was estimated more highly than existing patterns in the items of the comfort of front crotch and back crotch. 3. Wearing test by moire topography method represented that garment silhouette of developed slacks pattern was estimated more highly and garment space of waist, hip were significantly different among patterns.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.255-266
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• 2015

In this study, we have developed the ergonomic pattern from the 3D human body reflecting cycling posture and extensibility of the stretch fabrics. Adjusting pressure level in the construction of athlete's tight-fitting stretch garments by reducing the original pattern is a challenging subject, which influence on the performance of the wearer directly. Therefore, in this study, relationships between the reduction rates of the 2D pattern obtained from the 3D human scan and resultant clothing pressure were explored to improve the fit and pressure exerted by reduced clothing pattern. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using a seven-point Likert scale on two consecutive days. While wearing the garments, subjects were asked to take five different postures including waist flexion, sitting and others. A Likert-type scale was used for the evaluation, with 7 points indicating the best fit in tight-fitting pants. Comparing 2/3T-pattern with T-pattern, the latter was superior to 2/3T-pattern in terms of adhere well to the waist and hip area in the 0.032 significance level. T-pattern was superior to 2/3T-pattern in terms of fitting and wear comfort. As results, the pattern obtained from the flexed body reflecting cycling posture already included the contraction and extension of the skin while cycling posture, so that the extra ease for movement and good fit was not need to be considered. The optimized reduction rates were determined with the proposed reduction rate, the resultant pressure range was within the range of $0.5{\sim}3.0gf/cm^2$ at eight locations on the body except front waist band and thigh band.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.10 no.8
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• pp.239-247
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• 2012

This paper is related to an Object VR-based virtual textile wearing system carrying out textile texture mapping based on viewpoint vector estimation and intensity difference map. The proposed system is characterized as capable of virtually wearing a new textile pattern selected by the user to the clothing shape section segmented from multi-view 2D images of clothes model for Object VR(Object Virtual Reality), and three-dimensionally viewing its virtual wearing appearance at multi-view points of the object. Regardless of color or intensity of model clothes, the proposed system is possible to virtually change the textile pattern with holding the properties of the selected clothing shape section, and also to quickly and easily simulate, compare, and select multiple textile pattern combinations for individual styles or entire outfits. The proposed system can provide higher practicality and easy-to-use interface, as it makes real-time processing possible in various digital environment, and creates comparatively natural and realistic virtual wearing styles, and also makes semi-automatic processing possible to reduce the manual works.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.111-125
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• 1998

What human beings wear is closely related to how they conceptualize their bodies and how they classify the group they belong to and the way they wear their cloth s an important cultural element that shows wearers' awareness and social relationship. Especially, underclothes reflect unrevealed cultural inside of the society more abundantly than outer wear do. Through such characteristics of underclothes, we are able to better understand inherent order of culture. This study si to understand the characteristics and changes of Korean culture by reviewing the convention of underclothes wearing that takes important role in clothing without being explicitly revealed. For this study, in addition to biblical review of under clothes of traditional societies, a total of 301 college students aging from 19 to 28, who are the most open to accepting new cultures and changes, residing in Seoul area were participant. Questionnaire consists of open-ended questions of underclothes terms, kinds, why they wear, items of wearing, how they obtained, how they take care of, etc. In conclusion, changes in cultural meaning of underclothes analyzed through convention of underclothes wearing are as follows; 1) changes in wearing pattern implies changes in functions of underclothes and changes in members' roles and values in a society; 2) changes in recognition of underclothes are related to the changes in awareness of sex; 3) consumer behaviour of underclothes represents a part of information culture; 4) changes in the pattern of maintaining underclothes show that differentiation of sex role in household tasks is decreased.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.652-663
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to make clear reduction ratio due to the stretch ratio and to find out the ease for the patterns of stretch skirt according to the body types to improve the aesthetics and wearing satisfaction. Therefore, fundamental data for aesthetic and functional patternmaking of the stretch skirt can be suggested. The results from the study were as follows: 1. The results from the appearance test were as follows. For the ease on waist, W+0cm and W - lcm for thin body type were suggested for the best fit. For the ease on hip, H+0cm and H-2cm for thin body type were suggested for the best fit. 2. The results from wearing satisfaction test were as fDllows. W+Ocm, H+Ocm for thin body type were suggested for the best wearing satisfaction. 3. Based on the results from the above tests, the pattern reduction ratios for stretch skirt were as follows: pattern reduction ratio 3.3 ∼ 5.0% of waist, 4.8 ∼7.2% of hip for thin body type were suggested for the appropriate reduction ratio for stretch skirt. 4. The result from this study for stretch skirt was as follows: For thin body type, W+0cm, W - lcm for waist and H+0cm, H-2cm for hip were appropriate for stretch skirt pattern. Therefore, different ease has to be applied to stretch skirt pattern according to the body parts, to make the skirt looks good, is appropriate for thin body type, and is satisfied with appearance and wearing satisfaction test.