• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.950-962
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop the slim-fit dress shirt pattern. Among the published educational patterns, there were four patterns based on similar design and silhouette with slim-fit dress shirts. Then, the drafting method of those patternsBB were compared and analyzed. The subjects for wearing evaluation were three 20 to 39 aged average-sized men. After the wearing evaluation(5 Likert point scale), N pattern had been chosen as the final comparison pattern because it received the highest points. The slim-fit shirt pattern was developed based on the result of wearing evaluation. The foundation design were as following: shirt length (Stature/2-12), back length (Stature/4), armhole depth (Chest/4+1), width (Chest/4+3), Interscye; Back (Chest/6+5), Interscye; Front (Chest/6+4), width of the nape of neck (Neck/6+1=◎), height of the nape of neck (◎/3), of the front neck (◎-0.5), depth of the front neck(◎+1.5). After the wearing evaluation about researched pattern and N pattern, researched patternsBB scale points were bigger than N pattern and there were slight differences. The scale points for N patternsBB movement evaluation showed highest points on all contents. Therefore, the researched pattern is suitable for the original form of slim-fit dress shirt. The new dress shirt pattern reflected the slim-fit trend in the research expected to help educational environment and industrial site.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.43-54
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• 2019

This study analyzed the casula wearing by Catholic priests. By understanding various applications of the priests' wearing of casula, we can understand the meaning of wearing casula, situational judgment, and the role and status of priests. Ultimately, the Catholic symbol and meaning of the casula can be found. The purpose of this study is to examine the basic setting of the casula, the setting according to the status of the priest, and the origin of the casula. Second, this study to understand the design of the pattern shown in the casula. The patterns containing the symbol and the liturgical period were examined, and the method of making the pattern design was considered. Third, various symbols appearing in examples of priests' rituals were considered and analyzed. The method of this study was to utilize various pictures acquired during interviews with priests and nuns and to perform content verification. As a result of this study, the aspects of form, color, and pattern were shown through the wearing of casula during various situations. First, the morphological symbols appearing in the rituals are the simplified casula that hangs on the stola on the top of the alb and the symbols of the form according to the priest's status. In the liturgy, the casula is put on the outermost side as for basic wearing, but in the case of celebration or the attendance at celebrations other than the liturgy, it is the same as simplified wearing. Second, in terms of the symbol and color, the basic colored casulas were worn to match the time and character of the liturgy, and in addition, on the priests' ordination ceremony and celebration day the priests wore white casulas. Third, the symbol of the pattern used in the casula was a Cathoric pattern according to the period in the basic casula wearing of the liturgy. In addition, the patterns were produced by combining the patterns and meaning of the priests that were used in the casulas of the priests' ordination ceremony. The design of the pattern used in the beatification mass casula and the Mass of Peace casula during the Pope's visit to Korea in 2014 used the same motif as the Pope's design, but the simplified pattern was produced for the casula of the Cardinal and bishops. Through this, it is possible to understand the situation where a morphological symbol appears due to a distinction according to the role and status of the priest. This shows that the symbols that appear are the cross and should also consider the complexly, shape, color, and pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.4 s.163
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• pp.633-645
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to develop brassiere patterns which are both fitting and functional for women aged 19 to 24(the 1924 generation). We suggested a 'size chart for body measurements' for constructing basic brassiere patterns with six sizes of '70, 75', 'AA, A, B cups', which are used most frequently by the 1924 generation consumers. The scope of research was in reference to the statistical analysis results of the Size Korea(2004) body measurements and the results of the data from the preceding research. The 'drafting method for constructing basic brassiere patterns for the 1924 generation consumers' was completed by selecting a total of 18 subjects, 3 for each six sizes in the scope of research, and three wearing tests were carried out with the subjects. We compiled one brassiere pattern in six sizes obtained with the drafting method of constructing a basic brassiere pattern on another by block pattern in order to observe the phase of change in dimensions and shapes of paper pattern. The result was converted into the variations of a x-axis and a y-axis, and we suggested 'Size Grading Rule' and 'Cup Grading Rule' for the basic brassiere patterns. As the results of the wearing evaluation of the basic brassieres and measuring the variation in body dimensions by wearing brassieres, the dimensions and shapes of the basic brassieres suggested in this research proved to be fitting and to have a wearing effect that brings together and supports the breasts.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.63-70
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• 2016

This study examines wearing conditions of skinny jeans for women in their 20's. The study is based on a questionnaire survey. The survey was conducted on 313 Korean 20's women living in Gwangju to analyze wearing dissatisfaction with skinny jeans. The final analysis included 298 responses and the content of the questionnaire consisted of 28 questions. The study used descriptive statistics for analysis using SPSS Statistics 20.0. According to the questionnaire survey, 20's women are the largest group that wear skinny jeans and they have a positive image of them. However, they do not know the exact size for skinny jeans, whereas they are knowledgeable about their general pants size. The results of the survey on the state of wearing dissatisfaction indicate that they think that the difference in size by each brand is the most difficult part when choosing skinny jeans and they felt lower body uncomfortableness in the waist and abdominal positions. It means that size subdivision and pattern development of skinny jeans should be suitable to all lower body types to resolve wearing dissatisfaction. This study represents base data for size subdivision and pattern development of skinny jeans.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.397-406
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• 2009

A Study on the Development of Brassiere Pattern for Elderly Women The purpose of this study is to develop functional and sensible brassiere for elderly women. For this purpose, 6 elderly women(aged between 65 and 69) were sampled to be measured for their body sizes and tested for their bressiere wearing. he results were as follows; 1. In order to develop the basic patterns of elderly women's bressieres, 90B size was selected and then, their bressiere fitting was tested. The foundation pattern of the size 90A was proved for the body by the wearing tests. Each angle and length of the parts on the basic line of the breasts played an important role on setting the pattern. 2. As based on the body surface shell extracted from a plastic mold(photo.2), the cup of brassiere pattern were applied to the body surface shell(photo.4), and full side stretch-wings were applied to 13% reduced body size. The design pattern of elderly women's brassiers were characterized by a round wired as well as a full cup(3piece) embracing the entire breasts. 3. As the result of the wearing test, the excellence of the experimental brassiere was recognized objectively, with high marks in all the items(fig. 6). The experimental brassiere was covering the whole breasts to cope with change according to breasts loosing. It was designed to support the breasts firmly.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.35 no.6
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• pp.581-594
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• 2016

Objective: The purpose of this study is to develop an all- in-one collar shirt with excellent appearance which is well suited to the body shape of the male adults. Background: As men's casual wear has recently become more casual and the number of cool biz wearing in the summer has increased, a variety of shirt colors have been preferred in addition to shirt collar. However, studies on the design and pattern development of men's casual shirt collars are very rare. So we have identified the necessity of various development and research of men's shirts. Method: We collected 8 all-in-one collar patterns for shirts from professional pattern books and men's shirt brands. Also, based on anthropometric data from the 6th Size Korea, we selected 5 subjects with measurements similar to the average adult men, manufactured shirts based on them and conducted a wearing test by 5 experts. Results: After selecting shirts with good fit and appearance, we developed a prototype of all-in-one collar. As for front appearance evaluation, E1 pattern had the most outstanding shape and size, and C1 pattern had the most natural creases and front adjustment curves. As for side appearance evaluation, C1 had the highest overall scores, and E1 pattern on outer line. As for back appearance evaluation, C1 pattern had the highest score. Conclusion: We suggested new all-in-one collar and shirt patterns. In addition, the prototype of the all-in-one collar shirt design was presented by reflecting results of the wearing test and preference survey. Application: The shirt's design and patterns could be manufactured using the developed patterns. It will fit well with the body shape of adult males and will be highly satisfied by them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.294-306
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is a men's dress shirt pattern by somatotype for mass customization system that is rising to the surface as a new production system. Subjects were 65 men aged from 25 to 44 for making research pattern and 9 men for wearing test. The dress shirt went through the secondary wearing test and sensory evaluation to verify the propriety of the research pattern. The results were as follows: For making research dress shirts pattern used the body parts size that were height, the circumference of the neck, the chest circumference, the length between biacromion, the arms length, and the waist circumference. The waist back length, the waist to hip length and the pattern length of were set by the calculation formula based on the height. The ease of 16cm for the chest circumference and A type had the ease of 10cm for the waist circumference, Y type had the ease of 8cm and B type had 12cm. Through the wearing test, the research pattern showed significant difference from the comparative patterns so additional two items of the length between biacromion and waist circumference were added to the items used in the comparative patterns through which satisfactory results were obtained. In the secondary wearing test for the dress shirt, all the items, except for the front centerline, were evaluated excellent. As a result of evaluating by the figure type, the normal type was evaluated best in all the items.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.392-403
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to make clear reduction ratio due to the stretch ratio and to find out the ease for the patterns of stretch skirt according to fat body type to improve the aesthetics and wearing satisfaction. For this study, three college students were selected according to the fat body types; According to fat body types, 15 experimental skirt which were different each other in terms of the amount of ease on wait and hip, were made for the appearance test and wearing satisfaction test. The results from the study were as follows: 1. The results from the appearance test were as follows. For the ease on waist, W+2cm and W+0cm for fat body type were suggested for the best fit. For the ease on hip, H+2cm and H+0cm for fat body type were suggested for the best fit. 2. The results from wearing satisfaction test were as follows. W+2cm, H+2cm for fat body type were suggested for the best wearing satisfaction. 3. Based on the results from the above tests, the pattern reduction ratios for stretch skirt were as follows. pattern reduction ratio 0∼2.4% of waist, 1.9∼3.8% of hip for fat body type, were suggested for the appropriate reduction ratio for stretch skirt. 4. The result from this study for stretch skirt was as follows. For fat body type, W+2cm, W+0cm for waist and H+2cm, H+0cm for hip were appropriate for stretch skirt pattern. Therefore, different ease has to be applied to stretch skirt pattern according to the body parts, to make the skirt looks good, is appropriate for fat body type, and is satisfied with appearance and wearing satisfaction test.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.27-36
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• 1987

The purpose of this study was to develop a slacks pattern drafting method for the fatty women of 40∼55 aged Korean women who are more than 1.5 Rohrer's index on the basis of their physical characteristics. The study was composed as follows; 1. Body measurement and statistical analysis: One hundred and thirty women between the ages of 40∼55 over 1.5 Rohrer's index were measured on 21 items. Mean, standard deviation, variance, maximum, minimum, range were computed. 2. 4 types of conventional slacks pattern were collected. The most accepted conventional slacks pattern was decided through wearing test. The new pattern was based onthe most accepted conventional pattern, and developed through wearing tests. 3. Evaluation of the new pattern drafting method: The sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the new pattern by comparing is with the most accepted conventional pattern. According to the statistical analysis of the result of the 12 items, all the items showed significant differences (α 0.01) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.624-634
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop the pattern of safety clothes used at flat or mountainous areas and to identify the pattern of safety clothes by conducting experimental evaluation of virtual wear. Three subjects were selected, based on fire fighters' physical constitution. A prototype design for safety clothing was determined after in-depth interviewing of professionals and surveying of Forest service staff and related agency. Wearing test should be carried out in the order of pattern making, virtual and real wearing evaluation. For data analysis, technical statistical values should be obtained by using body measurements of subject, frequency analysis and T-test. The jacket is designed to have a front extension and the entire length of clothing enough for wearer to put on it over ordinary shirts or sweater. The collar of jacket is of round type. Cyber reality enables to identify the movement and activity of virtual fitting model and to find out errors or problems in safety clothing prior to on-the-spot wear test, thus raising the precision level of pattern. There was significant difference between real and virtual fit preference. The results show that the virtual try-on system need the development of a specific style.