• Title/Summary/Keyword: waves and currents

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Impacts of wave and tidal forcing on 3D nearshore processes on natural beaches. Part I: Flow and turbulence fields

  • Bakhtyar, R.;Dastgheib, A.;Roelvink, D.;Barry, D.A.
    • Ocean Systems Engineering
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    • v.6 no.1
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    • pp.23-60
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    • 2016
  • The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.

Behavioral analysis of Pacific cod (Gadus macrocephalus) released to the entrance of Jinhae Bay, Korea (진해만 입구에 방류한 대구(Gadus macrocephalus)의 행동 분석)

  • SHIN, Hyeon-Ok;HEO, Gyeom;HEO, Min-A;KANG, Kyoungmi
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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    • v.55 no.1
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    • pp.29-38
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    • 2019
  • In order to investigate the behavioral characteristics of Pacific cod (Gadus macrocephalus) released at the entrance of Jinhae Bay, Korea, the direction and range of movement, swimming speed of the fish were measured with an acoustic telemetry techniques in winter, 2015. Three wild Pacific codes WC1 to WC3 (total length 66.0, 75.0, 76.0 cm; body weight 2.84, 2.79, 3.47 kg, respectively) were tagged with the acoustic transmitter. WC1 tagged with an acoustic transmitter internally by surgical method, WC2 and WC3, externally with the acoustic data logger and a micro data logger for recording audible sound waves including timer release unit. The movement routes of the tagged fish were measured more than five hours using VR100 receiver and a directional hydrophone. The directionality of the fish movement was tested by Rayleigh's z-Test, the statistical analysis, and a statistical program SPSS. Three tagged fishes were individually released on the sea surface around the entrance to the Jinhae Bay on 10 to 24 January 2015. WC1 moved about 13.32 km with average swimming speed of 0.63 m/s for six hours. The average swimming depth and water depth of the seabed on the route of WC1 were 7.2 and 32.9 m, respectively. The movement range of WC2 and WC3 were 7.95 and 11.06 km, approximately, with average swimming speed of 0.44 and 0.58 m/s for 5.1 and 5.3 hours, respectively. The average swimming depth of WC2 and WC3 were 18.7 and 5.0 m, and the water depth on the route, 34.4 and 29.8 m, respectively. Three fishes WC1 to WC3 were shown significant directionality in the movement (p < 0.05). Movement mean angles of WC1 to WC3 were 77.7, 76.3 and $88.1^{\circ}$, respectively. There was no significant correlation between the movement direction of fish (WC1 and WC2) and the tidal currents during the experimental period (p >= 0.05). Consequently, three tagged fishes were commonly moved toward outside of the entrance and headed for eastward of the Korean Peninsula, approximately, after release. It may estimate positively that the tidal current speed may affect to the swimming speed of the Pacific cod during the spring tide than the neap tide.

Characteristics on sea level variations in the South Indian Ocean (남인도양의 해수면 변화 특성)

  • 윤홍주
    • Journal of the Korea Institute of Information and Communication Engineering
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    • v.5 no.6
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    • pp.1094-1103
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    • 2001
  • According to standard procedures as defined in the users handbook for sea level data processes, I was compared to Topex/Poseidon sea level data from the first 350days of mission and Tide Gauge sea level data from the Amsterdam- Crozet- Kerguelen region in the South Indian Ocean. The comparison improves significantly when many factors for the corrections were removed, then only the aliased oceanic tidal energy is removed by oceanic tide model(11) in this period. Making the corrections and smoothing the sea level data ()ver 60km along-track segments and the Tide Gauge sea level data for the time series results in the digital correlation and RMS difference between the two data of c=-0.12 and rms= 11.4cm, c=0.55 and rms=5.38cm, c=0.83 and rms=2.83cm, and c=0.24 and rms=6.72 for the Amsterdam, Crozet and Kerguelenplateau, and Kerguelen coast, respectively. It was also found that the Kerguelen plateau has a comparisons due to propagating signals(the baroclinic Rossby wave with velocity of -3.9 ~-4.2cm/sec, period of 167days and amplitude of 10cm) that introduce temporal lags(${\gamma}$: 10~30days) between the altimeter and tide gauge time series. The conclusion is that on timescales longer than about 10days the RMS sea level errors are less than or of the order of several centimeters and are mainly due to the effects of currents rather than the effects of stories(water temperature, density) and winds.

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Assessment of the Structural Collapse Behavior of Between Offshore Supply Vessel and Leg in the Jack-up Drilling Rig (잭업드릴링 리그의 레그와 작업 지원선 충돌에 의한 구조붕괴 거동 평가)

  • Park, Joo-Shin;Seo, Jung-Kwan
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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    • v.28 no.4
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    • pp.601-609
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    • 2022
  • Jack-up drilling rigs are mobile offshore platforms widely used in the offshore oil and gas exploration industry. These are independent, three-legged, self-elevating units with a cantilevered drilling facility for drilling and production. A typical jack-up rig includes a triangular hull, a tower derrick, a cantilever, a jackcase, living quarters and legs which comprise three-chord, open-truss, X-braced structure with a spudcan. Generally, jack-up rigs can only operate in water depths ranging from 130m to 170m. Recently, there has been an increasing demand for jack-up rigs for operating at deeper water levels and harsher environmental conditions such as waves, currents and wind loads. All static and dynamic loads are supported through legs in the jack-up mode. The most important issue by society is to secure the safety of the leg structure against collision that causes large instantaneous impact energy. In this study, nonlinear FE -analysis and verification of the requirement against collision for 35MJ recommended by DNV was performed using LS-Dyna software. The colliding ship used a 7,500ton of shore supply vessel, and five scenarios of collisions were selected. From the results, all conditions do not satisfy the class requirement of 35MJ. The loading conditions associated with chord collision are reasonable collision energy of 15M and brace collisions are 6MJ. Therefore, it can be confirmed that the identical collision criteria by DNV need to be modified based on collision scenarios and colliding members.

Quality Control of Observed Temperature Time Series from the Korea Ocean Research Stations: Preliminary Application of Ocean Observation Initiative's Approach and Its Limitation (해양과학기지 시계열 관측 자료 품질관리 시스템 구축: 국제 관측자료 품질관리 방안 수온 관측 자료 시범적용과 문제점)

  • Min, Yongchim;Jeong, Jin-Yong;Jang, Chan Joo;Lee, Jaeik;Jeong, Jongmin;Min, In-Ki;Shim, Jae-Seol;Kim, Yong Sun
    • Ocean and Polar Research
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    • v.42 no.3
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    • pp.195-210
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    • 2020
  • The observed time series from the Korea Ocean Research Stations (KORS) in the Yellow and East China Seas (YECS) have various sources of noise, including bio-fouling on the underwater sensors, intermittent depletion of power, cable leakage, and interference between the sensors' signals. Besides these technical issues, intricate waves associated with background tidal currents tend to result in substantial oscillations in oceanic time series. Such technical and environmental issues require a regionally optimized automatic quality control (QC) procedure. Before the achievement of this ultimate goal, we examined the approach of the Ocean Observatories Initiative (OOI)'s standard QC to investigate whether this procedure is pertinent to the KORS. The OOI QC consists of three categorized tests of global/local range of data, temporal variation including spike and gradient, and sensor-related issues associated with its stuck and drift. These OOI QC algorithms have been applied to the water temperature time series from the Ieodo station, one of the KORS. Obvious outliers are flagged successfully by the global/local range checks and the spike check. Both stuck and drift checks barely detected sensor-related errors, owing to frequent sensor cleaning and maintenance. The gradient check, however, fails to flag the remained outliers that tend to stick together closely, as well as often tend to mark probably good data as wrong data, especially data characterized by considerable fluctuations near the thermocline. These results suggest that the gradient check might not be relevant to observations involving considerable natural fluctuations as well as technical issues. Our study highlights the necessity of a new algorithm such as a standard deviation-based outlier check using multiple moving windows to replace the gradient check and an additional algorithm of an inter-consistency check with a related variable to build a standard QC procedure for the KORS.

Sea Surface Temperature Time Lag Due to the Extreme Heat Wave of August 2016 (2016년 8월 폭염에 따른 표층수온의 지연시간 고찰)

  • Kim, Ju-Yeon;Han, In-Seong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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    • v.23 no.6
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    • pp.677-683
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    • 2017
  • In this study, we examined responses to Sea Surface Temperature (SST) as the result of an intensive heat wave that took place in August 2016 and the cross correlation between SST and Air Temperature (AT) in August 2016. The data used included the SST of 8 ocean buoys, provided by the National Institute of Fisheries Science, and the AT of AWS near those 8 ocean buoys recorded every hour. To identify an appropriate data period, on FIR filter was applied. Two locations in the south sea were selected to be observed over similar a period, with a high correlation coefficient of about 0.8 and a time lag of about 50 hours between AT and SST. For the yellow sea, due to shallow waters and tidal currents, SST showed a rapid response caused by changes in AT. The east sea showed a negative correlation between AT and SST because of significant water depth and marine environment factors. By identifying the time lag between AT and SST, damage to aquatic organisms can be minimized, and we expect to develop a rapid response system for damage to the fishery industry caused by extreme heat waves.

Current and Long Wave Influenced Plume Rise and Initial Dilution Determination for Ocean Outfall (해양 배출구에서 해류와 장파에 의한 플룸 상승과 초기 희석도 결정)

  • Kwon, S.J.
    • Journal of Korean Port Research
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    • v.11 no.2
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    • pp.231-240
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    • 1997
  • In the United States, a number of ocean outfalls discharge primary treated effluent into deep sea water and contribute for more efficient wastewater treatment. The long multiport diffuser connected by long pipe from a treatment plant discharge wastewater into deep water due to the steep slope of the sea bed. However, Plume discharged from the diffuser can have significant impacts on coastal communities and possibly immediate consequence on public health. Therefore, there have been growing interests about the dynamics of plume in the vicinity of the ocean outfalls. It is expected that the ocean outfall should be considered for more efficient and reliable wastewater treatments as soon as possible around coastal area in South Korea. A number of studies of plume ynamics have used various models to predict plume behavior. However, in many cases, the calculated values of plume behavior are in significantly poor agreement with realistic values. Therefore, in this study, it is recommended that improvements should be made in the application of the plume model to more simulate the actual discharge characteristics and ocean conditions. It should be noted that input parameters in plume models reflect realistic ocean conditions like waves as well as currents. In this study, as one of the new parameters, current and long wave-influenced plume rise and initial dilution have been taken into account by using simple linear wave theory under some specific assumptions for more reliable plume behavior description. Among the improved plume models approved by EPA (Environmental Protection Agency), the RSB(Roberts-Snyder-Baurngartner) and UM(Updated Merge) models were chosen for the calculation of plume behavior, and the variation calculated by both models on the basis of long period wave was compared in terms of plume rise and initial dilution.

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Tides and Currents of Kamag Bay in July-August 1994 (1994년 7-8월 가막만의 조석 및 해류)

  • LEE Jae Chul;CHOO Hyo Sang;LEE Kyu Hyong;CHO Kyu Dae
    • Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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    • v.28 no.5
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    • pp.624-634
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    • 1995
  • Tides at both of northern and southern entrances of Kamag Bay were compared by deploying tide gauges for 18 days during July-August 1994. To examine the response of the inner bay to the tidal waves through both entrances, a current meter was moored at the eastern pan of the inner bay. Current meter mooring failed at the northern entrance (Yosu) while the current data was collected for only 5 days at the southern site (Songdo). Maximum range was 357 and 352 cm at Yosu and Songdo, respectively. Respective amplitudes for M2, S2 Kl O1 tides of 95.5, 48.8, 20.5, 14.0cm at Yosu and 93.6, 47.2, 21.3, 13.1cm at Songdo yielded the form numbers of 0.23 and 0.24, respectively, both of which belong to the predominantly semidiurnal tide, Contributions from the overtides and compound tides were less than $4\%^ at both sites. Differences in Greenwich phase of major partial tides between two sites were negligible. Maximum speed of tidal current was about 100cm/sec at the southern entrance and about 40cm/sec at the inner bay. Residual current speed was 17cm/sec southwestward at the southern entrance and 0.9cm/sec southeastward at the inner bay. Temporal change in current at the inner bay showed that the wind had a significant influence upon the circulation in Kamag Bay.

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A Proposal of New Breaker Index Formula Using Supervised Machine Learning (지도학습을 이용한 새로운 선형 쇄파지표식 개발)

  • Choi, Byung-Jong;Park, Chang-Wook;Cho, Yong-Hwan;Kim, Do-Sam;Lee, Kwang-Ho
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.32 no.6
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    • pp.384-395
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    • 2020
  • Breaking waves generated by wave shoaling in coastal areas have a close relationship with various physical phenomena in coastal regions, such as sediment transport, longshore currents, and shock wave pressure. Therefore, it is crucial to accurately predict breaker index such as breaking wave height and breaking depth, when designing coastal structures. Numerous scientific efforts have been made in the past by many researchers to identify and predict the breaking phenomenon. Representative studies on wave breaking provide many empirical formulas for the prediction of breaking index, mainly through hydraulic model experiments. However, the existing empirical formulas for breaking index determine the coefficients of the assumed equation through statistical analysis of data under the assumption of a specific equation. In this paper, we applied a representative linear-based supervised machine learning algorithms that show high predictive performance in various research fields related to regression or classification problems. Based on the used machine learning methods, a model for prediction of the breaking index is developed from previously published experimental data on the breaking wave, and a new linear equation for prediction of breaker index is presented from the trained model. The newly proposed breaker index formula showed similar predictive performance compared to the existing empirical formula, although it was a simple linear equation.

Structural Design Optimization of Gageocho Jacket Structure Considering Unity Check (가거초 자켓 구조물의 허용응력비를 고려한 구조 최적설계)

  • Kim, Byungmo;Ha, Seung-Hyun
    • Journal of the Computational Structural Engineering Institute of Korea
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    • v.34 no.4
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    • pp.205-212
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    • 2021
  • Offshore jacket structures generally comprise steel members, and the safety standard for jacket structures typically focuses on the steel components. However, large amounts of concrete grouting is filled in the legs of the Gageocho jacket structure to aid in the recovery from typhoon damage. This paper proposes a safe and lightweight design for the Gageocho ocean research station comprising steel members instead of large amounts of concrete reinforcement in the legs. Based on the actual design, the structural members are grouped according to their functional roles, and the inner diameter of the cross-section in each design group is defined as a design variable. Structural optimization is carried out using a genetic algorithm to minimize the total weight of the structure. To satisfy the conservative safety standards in the offshore field, both the maximum stress and the unity check criteria are considered as design constraints during optimization. For enhanced safety confidence, extreme environmental conditions are assumed. The maximum marine attachment thickness and the section erosion in the splash zone are applied. Additionally, the design load is defined as the force induced by extreme waves, winds, and currents aligned in the same direction. All the loading directions surrounding the structure are considered to design the structure in a balanced and safe manner. As a result, compared with the current structure, the proposed structure features a 45% lighter design, satisfying the strict offshore safety criteria.