• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.84-96
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• 2006

This paper presents a simplified numerical method that can be used to incorporate the partial reflection and transmission of water waves in the hyperbolic mild-slope equation. For given reflection and transmission coefficients, wave fields around a porous breakwater including reflection, transmission, and diffraction can be simulated accurately. For the verification of the proposed method, numerical experiments have been carried out and compared with analytic solutions given by Yu(1995) and McIver(1999). The proposed method is easy to implement and is computationally efficient. It is demonstrated that the method performs well with a sloping bottom bathymetry and varying incident wave angles.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.223-228
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• 1987

An efficient method for the calculation of wave forces on a tension leg platform(TLP) is presented in this paper. It is based on the Morison's equation with two corrective terms. One is the reduction of the inertia forces on the vertical columns in order to include the wave diffraction effect particularly for small wave conditions. The other is the inclusion of the hydrodynamic forces acting at the bottoms of the columns. Numerical studies are carried out for a TLP in 1000 ft water with two different wave heading angles($0^{\circ}$ and $45^{\circ}$). The reponse amplitude operators(RAO's) for the TLP motions and top tether tension variations are obtained by the present method and the theoretically more accurate method based on the diffraction theory. A comparison has been made between the results obtained by two methods.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.146-150
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• 1996

The waves are most important dynamical factors for the analyses of structural stability and topographical changes on coastal engineering field. However, wind-generated waves are very irregular in shape and transformed through refraction, diffraction and shoaling when they propagate into shallow water where bottom topography and water depth vary significantly. Recently, Vincent and Briggs (1989) reported hydraulic model experiments for the transformation of monochromatic and directionally-spread irregular waves passing over a submerged elliptical mound. They concluded that for the case of combined refraction-diffraction of waves by a shoal, the propagation characteristics of the irregular and equivalent regular wave conditions can be vastly different. On the irregular wave transformation have been made theoretical and numerical studies for several years. Although theoretical and laboratory studies on wave transformation have progressed considerably, field measurement and comparison of numerical results with related theories are still necessary for the prediction of the phenomena in reality. In this study, field measurement of both incident and transformed waves in Youngil Bay were made using various kinds of equipments, and numerical computations were made on the transformed frequency spectra of large waves propagating over the shoal using Chae and Jeong's (1992) elliptic model. It is shown that this model results agree very well with field data, and thus the applicability of the model is now validated.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.155-166
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• 1999

The construction of the coastal structures and reclamation work causes the circulation reduced in the semi-closed inner water area and the unbalanced sediment budget of beach results in an alteration of beach topography. Among the various fluid motions in the nearshore zone water particle motion due to wave and wave-induced currents are the most responsible for sediment movement. Therefore it is needed to predict the effect of the environmental change because of development and so the prediction of wave transformation dose. The purpose of this study is to introduce the relation between waves wave-induced currents and sediment movement. In this study we will show numerical method using energy conservation equation involving reflection diffraction and reflection and the surfzone energy dissipation term due to wave breaking is included in the basic equation. For the wave-induced current the momentum equation was combined with radiation stresses lateral mixing and friction Various information is required in the prediction of wave-induced current depending on the prediction tool. We can predict changes in wave-induced current from the distribution of wave especially near the wave breaking zone. To evaluate these quantities we have to know the local condition of waves mean sea level and so on. The results from the wave field and wave-induced current field deformation models are used as input data of the sediment transport and bottom change model. Numerical model were established by a finite difference method then were applied to the development plan of the eastern Pusan coastal zone Yeonhwa-ri and Daebyun fishing port. We represented the result with 2-D graphics and made comparison between before and after development.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.399-408
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• 1999

Copeland’s(1985) hyperbolic mild-slope equation including diffraction refraction and reflection in the wave field is used as a governing equation in this study. The result of Maruyama & Kajima(1985) is used to calculate wave direction and that of Watanabe & Maruyama(1986) is used as a energy dissipation formula. Numerical solutions are obtained by the Leap-Frog scheme and compared with Watanabe & Maruyama’s (1984) hydraulic experimental results and numerical simulation results for the detached breakwater. This wave model is applied to a detached breakwater and compared with Watanabe and Maruyama’s (1984) hydraulic model results to check the characteristics of reflected wave field around a detached breakwater. The distribution of wave height and we phase in front of a detached breakwater is more accurate than the Watanabe and Maruyama’s numerical results. The results from our wave model show good agreements with the others and also show nonlinear effects around the detached breakwater. This model is applied to the Gamcheon harbor of pusan. the field observations were carried out at Pusan harbor wave station in 1986-1995 and the results were accepted as a design wave condition in this study. The wave height and wave period was measured by Dong-A university at one station in the Gamcheon harbor in 1996-1997 and used as a calibration criterion. The measured data were used as input data for the numerical simulation and also compared with simulated results. The numerical simulation shows a fairly good results which considering the effect of topographic characteristics and effect of narrow entrance due to two separated breakwaters in Gamcheon harbor. The wave distribution characteristics inside Gamcheon harbor is quite different with the offshore wave direction and wave period.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.157-164
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• 2003

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of tide, wind and wave induced currents at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster protection problems. As the steady state spectral wave model could simulate depth induced wave shoaling and refraction, current induced refraction effect, steepness induced wave breaking, diffraction, wind wave growth, and wave-wave interaction that redistribute energy, this would support and compensate the gap in the real field of design where other wave models could not deal and cause wrong estimation. In this study, for that sense, we applied the spectral wave model t the large coastal waters near Gaduck Island where the Busan new port construction project is going on, for better understanding and analysis of wave transformation process. We also compared the simulation results with the calculated from the existing model. From such a trial of this study, we hope that broader and sager use of the spectral model in the area of port design and disaster prevention system come through in near future.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1994.07a
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• pp.33-38
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• 1994

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.16-22
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• 2010

In this paper, the diffraction problems for fixed offshore structures are solved using a hybrid scheme. In this hybrid scheme, potential-based solutions and the Navier-Stokes-based finite volume method (FVM) with a volume-of-fluid (VOF) method are combined. We introduce a buffer zone for efficient wave-making and damping. In this buffer zone, the near field solution from FVM-VOF is gradually changed to Stokes' 2nd order wave solutions. Three different models, including the truncated cylinder, sphere, and wigleyIII model, are numerically investigated in regular waves with a wave steepness of 1/30. The efficiency and accuracy of the hybrid scheme are numerically validated from results using different domain sizes and buffer zones. The wave exciting forces from the FVM-VOF simulations are compared with experiments and potential-based solutions from the higher-order boundary element method (HOBEM). This comparison shows good agreement between the hybrid scheme and potential-based solutions.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.27-33
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• 2008

One of the central problems in astudy of the coastal surface wave environment is predicting the transformation of waves as they propagate toward the shore. The transformation is mainly due to the existence of obstacles, such as breakwaters and vertical cylinders. In general, the types of wave transformation can be classified as follows: wave diffraction, reflection, transmission, scattering, radiation, et al. This research dealtwith wave transmission and dissipation problems for two dimensional irregular waves and vertical circular cylinders. Using the unsteady mild slope equation, a numerical model was developed to calculate the reflection and transmission of regular waves from a multiple-row circular breakwater and vertical cylinders. In addition, hydraulic model experiments were conducted with different values for the properties between tire piles and the opening ratio (distances) between the rows of the breakwater. It was found that the transmission coefficients decreased with a decrease in the opening ratio and an increase in the rows of vertical cylinders. A comparison between the results of hydraulic and numerical experiments showed reasonable agreement.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.7-14
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• 2004

The interaction of incident manochromatic waves with an array of N surface-piercing porous dual cylindrical structures is investigated in the frame of three-dimensional linear potential theory. The dual cylindrical structure is camposed of concentric two cylinders. The exterior cylinder is porous and the interior cylinder is impermeable. The fluid domain is divided into N+1 regions i.e. a single exterior region and N interior regions. The diffraction potentials in each region representing the scattering of incident waves by an array of porous cylindrical structures are expressed by the Fourier Bessel series. The unknown coefficients in each region are determined by applying the porous boundary condition and continuity of mass flux at the matching boundary. It is found that an array of porous cylindrical structures reduces both the wave forces and the wave run-up, and shows the excellent performance of wave blocking. The results show that various types of breakwater exchanging seawater are prospective by controlling the porosity and the configuration of cylindrical structures.