• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2004.11a
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• pp.96-101
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• 2004

When the wind blows hard, most waves are breaking in sea. Breaking waves occur, exceeding limitation of wave steepness(wave height/wave length=l/7). Because a wave of single angular frequency couldn't generate the breaking phenomena at two dimensional ocean engineering basin, the breaking wave can be generated by the superposition of waves with various angular frequencies. We research how are the particle kinematics in the breaking wave and the magnitude of the breaking wave exciting force. We compare the force in a regular wave which has same specifications(wave height, period and length) as the breaking wave. Also the experimental results of wave exciting force and particle velocity are investigated by comparison on the analytic results using the potential theory.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.21 no.1 s.74
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• pp.18-24
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• 2007

When the wind blows strong, most waves are breaking at sea. Breaking waves occur by exceeding the limitation of wave steepness (wave height/wave length = 1/7). Because a wave of single angular frequency couldn't generate the breaking phenomena at a two-dimensional ocean engineering basin, the breaking wave can be generated by the superposition of waves with various angular frequencies based on dispersion relation. This study investigates the particle kinematics in the breaking wave and the magnitude of the breaking wave exciting force at the breaking point and breaking region. We compare the regular wave load in a regular wave, which has same specifications (wave height, period and length), with the breaking waveload. Also, the experimental results of wave exciting force and particle velocity are investigated, by comparison with the analytic results using the potential theory.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.135-140
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• 1995

The procedure of wave energy dissipation due to breaking has been investigated with trains of the regular wave. To obtain the data for wave breaking and its deformation, experiments have been conducted by utilizing a horizontal step adjoining to a combined slope of 1/20 and 1/10. After breaking the wave height decreases by dissipation but attains a stable value at some distance from the breaking point Experimental results show that the stable wave is considerably affected by the wave period. The study gives the general form of stable wave height A new one-dimensional wave deformation model is proposed. being coupled with an approximated shoaling coefficient before wave breaking and the new energy dissipation term after breaking. It was compared with the experimental data. It predicts well the wave height deformation before and after wave breaking even on the abrupt change of the depth.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.46 no.5
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• pp.491-504
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• 2013

In this study, wave breakings over a shelf region are investigated under irregular wave conditions through laboratory experiments in a wave flume. Numerical simulations based on the Boussinesq-type equations are also conducted. The characteristics of breaking waves such as significant wave height, crest and trough heights, the mean water level and the stable wave height are obtained by analyzing laboratory measurements in detail. Obtained results are compared with those of the Boussinesq-type equations model. A very reasonable agreements is observed. The broken waves over a horizontal bottom asymptotically approach a stable wave height($H_{stable}$). In this study, the relative stable wave height is found as $H_{stable}/h{\fallingdotseq}0.56$ for irregular wave.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.39 no.5
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• pp.385-391
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• 2015

In offshore, various external forces such as wind force, tidal current and impulsive breaking wave force act on offshore wind tower. Among these forces, impulsive breaking wave force is especially more powerful than other forces. Therefore, various studies on impulsive breaking wave forces have been carried out, but the soil reaction are incomplete. In this study, the p-y curve is used to calculate the soil reaction acting on the offshore wind tower when an impulsive breaking wave force occurs by typhoon. The calculation of offshore wind tower against impulsive breaking wave force is applied for the multi-layered soil. The results obtained in this study show that although the same wave height is applied, the soil reaction generated by impulsive breaking wave force is greater than the soil reaction generated by wave force.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.439-459
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• 2022

This paper describes experimental studies of impact pressure generated by breaking regular waves in shallow water on a vertical cylinder. Experimental work was carried out in a shallow water flume using a 1:30 - scale model of a vertical rigid circular hollow cylinder with a diameter 0.2 m. This represents a monopile for shallow water offshore wind turbines, subjected to depth induced breaking regular waves of frequencies of 0.8 Hz. The experimental setup included a 1 in 10 sloping bed followed by horizontal bed with a constant 0.8 m water depth. To determine the breaking characteristics, plunging breaking waves were generated. Free surface elevations were recorded at different locations between the wave paddle to the cylinder. Wave impact pressures on the cylinder at a number of elevations along its height were measured under breaking regular waves. The depth-induced wave breaking characteristics, impact pressures, and wave run-up during impact for various cylinder locations are presented and discussed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.55-59
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• 2005

The present data concerns the wave height distribution around the Ieodo underwater rocks and it was obtained from a 3D hydraulic model experiment which was performed in 1999 by Konkuk University and Korea Ocean Research and Development Institute. The experiment was separately undertaken for 4 different wave directions (NNW, SE, S, NNW) under which wave heights were measured at every 1m interval within the preset grid area, 16m×18m. It was observed that the wave breaking occurred on the top of the Ieodo model for all wave directions. This data may be effectively used for improving or verifying the performance of numerical wave propagation models in the area with the local breaking wave zones.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.165-172
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• 2021

Breaking wave is one of the important design factors in the design of coastal and port structures as they are directly related to various physical phenomena occurring on the coast, such as onshore currents, sediment transport, shock wave pressure, and energy dissipation. Due to the inherent complexity of the breaking wave, many empirical formulas have been proposed to predict breaker indices such as wave breaking height and breaking depth using hydraulic models. However, the existing empirical equations for breaker indices mainly were proposed via statistical analysis of experimental data under the assumption of a specific equation. In this study, a new Munk-type empirical equation was proposed to predict the height of breaking waves based on a representative linear supervised machine learning technique with high predictive performance in various research fields related to regression or classification challenges. Although the newly proposed breaker height formula was a simple polynomial equation, its predictive performance was comparable to that of the currently available empirical formula.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.136-145
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• 2007

When waves propagating over an underwater shoal break at the top of the shoal, wave heights are drastically decreased in the downstream breaking zone, but a secondary current shooting downstream with strong velocity can be induced by the breaking waves themselves. In the case that an offshore structure is placed in the breaking zone, the estimation of wave farce purely based on the visible wave height may cause an under-design of the structure. Thus, for the safe design of the structure, the breaking wave induced current should be necessarily considered in the comprehensive estimation of design load. In the present study, Boussinesq equation model to calculate the wave height distribution and breaking wave induced current was set up and applied to the scheme of a hydraulic model test previously undertaken. Based on the results of the Boussinesq model, fluid forces acting on the model structure were calculated and compared with the experimental results. The importance of the breaking wave induced current was quantitatively assessed by comparing fluid forces with or without current.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.37 no.6
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• pp.461-466
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• 2004

This study presents a combined experimental and numerical effort to investigate wave breaking of sinusoidal waves in a surf zone. Numerical predictions are verified by comparing to laboratory measurements. The model solves the Reynolds equations and$textsc{k}$-$\varepsilon$ models for the turbulence analysis. To track the free surface displacement, the volume of fluid method is employed. As the height of incident wave increases, the wave breaking occurs at a closer point of the slope in the numerical model and laboratory experiments with the same depth and period. When a wave breaking occurs, the ratio of wave height becomes larger, with the same wave height and depth, as the period increases.