• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.152-163
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• 1990

The purpose of this study is to experimentally analyze the relationship between structural characteristics of cotton fabrics and their cool-and-warm felling in order to develop more comfortable fabrics. Comfort in textile products has been emphasized as consumers preferred performance to fashion of clothing. Thermal comfort of clothing is a basic parameter of the comfort sensation which is usually represented by the cool-and-warm feeling felt by human skin. Cloo-and-warm feeling is perceived by the heat flux which transfers heat energy stored in an object to skin. We feel warm (cool) if the temperature of nerve extremity in skin ascends (descends). As cool-and-warm feeling determines the comfort sensation of clothing, it is important to develop new comfort fabrics. Although considerable works have been made on the body, clothing, and environment, there has been no research study on the structural characteristics of fabrics and their cool and warm feeling. Cool-and-warm feeling is closely related to the transient heat transfer property. This research study used the cotton fabrics manufactured in Korea as sample and measured $q_{max}$ value with thermal property measuring instrument (Thermo-Labo II type). $q_{max}$ values estimated by polynomial regression equation were compared with those observed in this study. This study also identified the structural parameters of cotton fabrics for a specific range of $q_{max}$ values. The findings of this study can be summarized as follows: 1) As the thickness, porosity and air permeability of cotton fabrics increase, $q_{max}$ value decreases. 2) As the fabric count and over factor of cotton fabrics increase, $q_{max}$ value also increases. 3) $q_{max}$ values have been estimated by simple and polynomial regression equations developed in this study. Regression curves which have been plotted by polynomial regression equations also provided with the range of structural parameters for a specific range of $q_{max}$ values of cotton fabrics. This study would be significant in that it has identified the structural Parameters for the cool-and-warm feeling of cotton fabric at $65\%$ relative humidity.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.53-59
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• 2002

The surface fibers on the fabric is one of decisive factors which affects human sensory evaluation as well as heat and moisture transfer characteristics. In this study the length and distribution of surface fibers that are extruded from the fabric surface of the wool/wool blend fabrics (14 wool fabrics and 10 wool blend fabrics) and its contribution to subjective sensory evaluation were investigated. In order to quantify the length and distribution of surface fibers, image analysis and wavelet transform technique were introduced. Instant warm-cool feeling of touch, Q$\_$max/, and contact area were also measured and related to the quantified surface fibers. To figure out the effect of surface characteristics on sensory evaluation, human sensory responses to three adjectives which represent surface characteristics and warm-cool feeling of touch were obtained and analyzed. The relationship between the quantified surface fibers assessed by wavelet energy and both warm-cool reeling of touch, Qmax, and human sensory response were discussed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.326-332
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• 2014

To develop cool touch feeling fabrics for summer clothing material, it was manufactured several compositions of woven fabrics, having rayon multi-filament yarn (non-twisted) as warp and various kinds of yarn, such as viscose rayon multi-filament yarn (twisted), tencel$^{(R)}$ spun yarn, PET high absorbance quick dry filament yarn, and PET based rayon-like yarn, as weft. After preparing the fabrics, basic properties of the fabrics were investigated, such as air-permeability, tensile strength, absorption rate, drying rate, etc. Also, surface warm / cool sensations of the woven fabrics were assessed by Qmax Warm / Cool Touch Tester. It was observed that the fabrics composed of viscose rayon multi-filament yarn (warp) and PET high absorbance quick dry filament yarn (weft) showed excellent surface cool touch sensation-the highest Qmax value. This is because the fabric having flat shaped PET high absorbance quick dry filament shows the largest contact area with Qmax measuring plate. And, the fabric also showed superior high absorbance and quick dry property as expected. In addition, we treated phase change material (PCM) on the surface of the fabric composed of viscose rayon multi-filament yarn (warp) and PET high absorbance quick dry filament yarn(weft) to improve the cool touch feeling. However, the surface cool touch feeling was impaired by resin treated with PCM during the finishing process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.355-363
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate how the weave type, yarn twist fabric count and fiber content of the worsted fabrics affect the subjective sensation of the hand. Thirty worsted fabrics that were mainly used for the spring and fall ladies'suits at national brands were selected. Variables were such as four different kinds of weave types, plain, twill, satin and decorative; two levels of yarn twist, normal and high; various fabric counts; two different fiber contents, pure wool and Lycra contained. Image analysis and wavelet transform techniques were used to quantify the surface fiber, For surface characteristics, MIU, MMD and SMD were measured by KES-FB system. The Questionnaires with 23 adjectives were used for the subjective hand evaluation. Panels were So specialists of fashion or fabric designers and merchandizers. By Factor Analysis, six factors that represent the subjective hand were extracted. The relationship between these factors and structural variables were analyzed. Yarn twist was significantly related to the surface characteristics and resilience. Weave structure affected surface characteristics, volume/warm-cool feeling and resilience. Fabric counts showed relations with volume/warm-cool feeling and the fiber contents with volume/warm-cool feeling, resilience and elastic properties. MIU, MMD and SMD showed no relations with the surface fibers. Subjective sensation of surface characteristics was affected by SMD and surface fibers.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.139-152
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• 2004

The main objective of this research is to investigate the color coordination types and their characteristics of contemporary female fashion by reviewing 'pre-a-porter Collections' of four collections (i.e., cities) - Paris, Milan, New York, London - from the periods of 2000 S/S to 2002/3 A/W. Through the review of various books and articles written on the subject, the color coordination types and their characteristics were categorized and defined. The data was collected by reviewing 'pre-a-porter Collections' magazine and total 4,269 observations were made. These in turn were categorized into eight color coordination and three color tone categories through the content analysis. Frequency analysis was used to analyse the data. The findings are as follows; First of all, there were 8 observable color coordination categories in contemporary women's fashion. The most used color coordination was chromatic & achromatic color coordination. It was followed by chromatic identical, and then by achromatic identical color coordination. These three color coordinations were the majority, comprizing 73.4％ of the total. The rest were in the order of complementary, gradation, similarity, accent. And the most used tone type was contrasting tone and followed by similar and identical. Next, the analysis of each coordination categories shows that; The chromatic identical coordination focused on presenting its own unity or break it using the contrasting color tone. Meanwhile, the achromatic identical coordination project a clean and strong feeling through black and white combination or a subtle feeling through the different material combination. The chromatic & achromatic coordination showed strong colors and contrasting tones of clear and bright colors. Meanwhile, the characteristics of complementary coordinations are that these coordinations seem to free the colors and show the subtle changes in tones very clearly. The gradation coordination was used to create a cool and lively feeling. Next, the similarity coordination seems to create feminine and warm feeling by taking advantage of similar color feelings, often through the use of warm to warm, cool to cool color matching. Lastly, the accent coordination, through the use of contrasting tones emphasizes the differences in colors, while separation coordination mostly uses black and white on various color coordinations.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.259-263
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• 1999

This study was carried out to investigate the changes of thermal properties such as warmth retaining and contact warm/cool feeling of commercial dress shirts by repeated washing and drying by sun and dryer. Three kinds of fabrics such as cotton 100%, cotton/polyester 80/20% and polyester 100% were repeatedly washed and dried, and then used as specimen. Thermo Labo II type was employed to measure the thermal properties. At the same time, structural properties such as thickness, weight, bulk density, porosity, moisture vapor permeability and air permeability were analysed.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 1989.06a
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• pp.87-88
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• 1989

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.309-315
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• 2013

This study examines the difference of surface properties according to napping characteristic of artificial suedes, measuring surface structure observation, the contact/non-contact method roughness, warm-cool feeling of touch, and subjective hand evaluation. Surface and cross-section observations showed a discernible difference in fineness, curl, length, mount of napping, and covering power of base fabric. The surface properties of artificial suede evaluated by KES-FB4 showed that the shorter napping length the more smooth surface and the roughness increased reciprocally with friction resistance and surface contour when the nap length reaches a high level. The surface roughness measuring system applied a laser displacement sensor by a non-contact method to assess napping characteristic and the base fabric and napping height. Surface roughness decreased when napping was uniformly covered with base fabric; however, the surface roughness increased specifically with the uneven covering power of the base fabric. For qmax of the suedes, those that had short and smaller amounts of napping increased; however, the napping of length and amount at some stage generated a low qmax value. The warm sensation in all suedes were strongly perceived, but the cool sensation of the perception was lower in the subjective evaluation. Smoothness and softness were perceived when the suede has a long and large amount napping; however, smoothness and hardness were perceived when the suede was short and with the uneven covering power.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.4 s.40
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• pp.373-380
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• 1991

In the previous paper, we already discussed about the factor effected upon the initial maximum value of heat flux ($q_{max}$). Thermal conductivity, thermal transmittance and surface air cavity of wool fabrics were examind and their correlation to the $q_{max}$ was also studied In this study, the other factor was examined which had on effect upon the qmaf of an objective measure of warm/cool feeling. It was studied that the qmax correlated to the surface sturucture parameters (compression, friction, smoothness, roughness, thickness and weight). It was concerned to the degree of warm/cool feeling when we touched hand on fabrics. We selected twenty sorts of pure wool woven fabrics for men's fall-winter cloth (all Wool). The conclusions are as follow; 1. There was a good correlation between the $q_{max}$ and the compression property. 2. The surface structure parameters, smoothness and roughness, made various effects on the $q_{max}$, when the samples touched on a thin copper plate. So, there was not a certain correla-tion to the $q_{max}$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.7
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• pp.816-825
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• 1998

This study surveys the thermal property and air permeability to the weight reduction rate of PET fabrics. For this purpose, 12 kinds of satin and 18 kinds of plain weave fabrics are prepared with change of the physical properties such as weft yarn count, t.p.m. and density. The weight reduction rate was 0%, 12%, 25% and 30%. The warm/cool feeling(Qmax), thermal insulating value(T.I.V.) and thermal conductivity(K) were measured by KES-F7 System and discussed in relation with the weight reduction rate, weft yarn linear density, t.p.m., weft density of fabric and weave structure.