• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.197-211
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• 2016

Loulan was an ancient kingdom located on the northeast of the Taklamakan Desert, a diverging point between the north and south of Silk Road, on the east of the current Turpan, from the 2nd century BC and the 7th century A.D, absorbing and propagating culture of both sides through active trade. Meanwhile, as many previous research investigations suggest the early trade between Korea and the countries bordering on Western China, characteristics of Loulan costume have been found to have similarity to those of ancient Korean costume. Also, it can be compared to costume in other surrounding regions. Therefore, it is a highly valuable region in researching ancient costume. This study examined the historical background of Loulan and its relationship with ancient Korea, analyzed the clothes found in historic sites of Louland and Niya, and compared costume elements of Loulan and those of Korea. The result of the study shows that first, the Loulan Jeogori was based on the Jikryeonggyoim, with Chaksu, narrow sleeves and the length coming between below the chest and above the bottom, and the line decoration and waist belt were very similar to Korean costumes, as well as the Banryeong, curved collar and Bansu, short sleeves. Second, the types of pants included Gunggo, characterized by closed bottom and many creases, and Daegugo, wide-leg trousers, which are very similar in shape to the Korean Shilla lay sculpture, Stele To Martyr Yi Ch'a-don, Yangjikgongdo and Wangheedo. Third, in accessories as well, the Jowu stuck on the Gwanmo is similar in the shapes to Korean costume.

• 복식
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• 제51권2호
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• pp.169-180
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• 2001

This paper is intended to explore femininity, the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and tole ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part I of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the fashion system in the Victorian period will be reviewed. following are the conclusion : First, in the Victorian period, the value of femininity is put on the body of female by the discrimination of sex divided in two. Consequently, the characteristics of femininity mainly include dependence, passiveness, emotion, beauty, maternity, innocence, and purity. To emphasize the function of reproduction as primary duty and nature of female, the ideal beauty of body is represented in the form of Venus Naturalis, which symbolizes the fertility. And the external form of this body is expressed in slum waist line, ample busom and hip in fashion. Second, the features of this fashion are classified into three categories by their internal value : images of subordinate female, sensual female and maternal female 1) The image of subordinate female is expressed by concealment of legs, tightening the upper part of the body in corset and restriction on action by the crinoline 2) The image of sensual female is revealed in brazing colors and decoration, excessive exposure of the upper part of the body and hip by means of bustle. 3) The image of maternity is expressed in swollen skirt of crinoline, oval bustle silhouette metaphoring the extended womb resulted from pregnancy.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.79-88
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to propose the design of the patient's clothes for a disabled child between 4 and 6. For this, in this study, I would present the following design plan which includes 3 upper garments, 2 trousers and a one-piece dress. In case of the damage on head and neck, a neck line should be deep and wide thereby providing ease to the clothes. To facilitate injection and dressing/undressing, there should be parting from neck to cuff which can be fixed by snap or button. By rolling up sleeves with strings inside the cuffs and fixating plaster cast with snap button outside the cuffs. In case of body cast with plaster cast around body part, front adjusting part should be wider and the width should be adjusted with strings. In case of hip spica cast which covers waist, I separated front part and rear part, fixated them with snap buttons, gave more width to front adjusting part with strings to adjust width, which constitute one-piece dress. In case of shoulder spica cast, the other shoulder which is not covered with plaster cast should be exposed, and to prevent clothes' coming down, strings with snap button or velcro should be attached over a shoulder so that the length of the strings can be adjusted. In case of applying plaster cast or aid to the whole part of a leg, one part of trousers should be shorter so as to expose the injured part and there should be a parting with strings or velcros on the side for easy dressing/undressing. When plaster cast or splint is short, The strings are meant to adjust length of trousers. The partings are located 2 cm from side lines toward the center.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.82-97
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• 2016

This study attempted to summarize the characteristics of fashion in the 1930s which were the background of 'Bonnie and Clyde' and analyze how fashion in the 1930s was expressed through costume in the movie, focusing on some critical scenes. For this, previous studies and domestic & foreign books, magazines and DVDs relating to movie costume were examined. For analysis of movie costume, 'Bonnie and Clyde (1967)' DVD was referred to. In the movie, meaningful scenes were captured using a GOM Player. Then, the study results found the followings: First, in terms of women's fashion in the 1930s, adult look and slim & long silhouette which naturally revealed breast, waist and hip with a long skirt, a military look with strong shoulders and tailored costume were found. In terms of men's fashion, in contrast, the Duke of Windsor Style (a slim silhouette jacket and loose pants) was popular. Second, in the movie, Bonnie's costume started with a slim linen H-line dress at her first meeting with Clyde. While committing crimes and becoming a famous gangster, she displayed the fashion styles which were in vogue in the 1930s such as fancy and luxurious slim dress, tailored suit and trench coat. Third, in terms of Clyde's costume, from his first meeting with Bonnie to his first crime, he put on common costume (ex: pants, vest, shirts, etc.) which revealed his open and unconventional character. After he became a famous gangster, he would wear the Duke of Windsor style (jacket, vest and pants). The study results well describe movie costume's role as visual language which expresses characters' inner circumstances and outer situations that reflect socio-cultural background.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.118-129
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• 2010

Digital technology introduced into the clothing and fashion industry is evolving to digital virtual fashions and consumer-centered mass-customized production systems. Today the application of such 3D virtual try-on systems is being expanded gradually in the clothing industry. This study purposed to make virtual avatars and virtual garments using OptiTex and V-stitcher virtual software and compared the appearance of the virtual garments put on the virtual avatars. For this, we created virtual avatars and virtual garments using body measurements obtained from jive subjects of top jive body shapes, respectively, using $[TC]^2$ body scanner. According to the results of comparing the outcomes of the two different virtual software systems, virtual avatar II of V-Stitcher tended to have a more round and lifted hip and the waist line at a higher position. In addition, the body curves and shapes of a virtual avatar affect the appearance of virtual garments. This study applied the same body measurements to virtual avatars and the same pattern to virtual garments, but when different kinds of virtual software were used, the virtual avatars and virtual garments showed different appearance and fit. This result may mean that when customers buy apparel products using different kinds of virtual try-on systems, their evaluation of appearance can vary depending on the virtual try-on system. Therefore, research needs to be made actively for the development and use of linkage programs that can reflect actual body measurements between virtual software systems and 3D body scanning systems.

• 복식
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• 제59권1호
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• pp.159-167
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• 2009

Based on instructions in the textbook "How to Construct Korean Costumes" which I authored, my university students were required to make Pungcha-Baji(Korean traditional pants for children) for one-year-old boys. While examining the students' construction, I found that the side seams of the vest and pants did not line up but were improperly twisted. It was found that the pants did not cover the child's backside because the width of the back was smaller than the width of the front when one of the side panels and the large center panel in the front was half the size of the hip and one of the side panels and the small panel in the back was four fifths of half the size of the hip. Although there were differences between the waist size of the pants and the bottom hem of the vest, the textbooks instruct that the amount of material and the number of pleats(i.e. 4 pleats) on the pants and the vest should be the same. Finding this mistake led me to investigate Pungcha-Baji construction in related textbooks. Thus with the textbook instruction, the side seams of the pants and the vest do not match and are improperly twisted. Hence, as a solution, the pleats should be made and adjusted after matching the side seams of the pants and the vest. The purpose of this study is to examine currently available Pungcha-Baji related textbooks and determine the correctness of their instructions and to ultimately provide correct construction methods for Pungcha-Baji pattern for academic purposes.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.410-421
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• 2018

The study is designed to develop a educational basic pants patterns for men, and has been analyzed focusing on the university textbooks published since 2000. We also used CAD programs and virtual fitting programs to analyze the fitness of pants. To do this purpose, after choosing 7 Men's Wear textbooks, selected patterns were drawn and measured using PAD system and were compared and analyzed. Also, the appearance evaluation was examined through virtual fitting and then evaluated 21 male and female university students in their 20s. After supplementing the problems of the patterns in the existing textbooks, a pattern was developed and verified the fitness of the developed pattern. The results of comparing the proposed measurement items of each textbook for the pants pattern indicated a significant differences in terms of hip circumference of each pattern, which were between 96~105cm. A comparison of the drafting methods of each pattern showed the drafting methods for the crotch length, the front crotch extension, the back crotch extension were the difference. The results of appearance evaluation were pattern E presented the slimmest fit and pattern D presented the loosest fit. As a result of analysis of pants pattern, a waist circumference 82cm, a hip circumference 98cm, a crotch length 24cm, a pants length 104cm and a ham line width 46cm were most suitable. The development pattern was evaluated as superior to the existing pattern through the appearance evaluation of the virtual fitting.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.53-63
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• 2015

The necessity on children dresses for cultural events and emotional aspects in designs have become important according to the development of kids industry and revitalization of party culture, and so grasping emotional requirements of consumers is necessary actually. This study aims at purpose of this research, the study used 27 color pictures on the whole bodies of children who wore children dresses that mixed clothing design factors differently (sleeve, skirt length, waist line, materials, color, decoration type and location) through a survey. Regarding the survey objects, this study objected children of 5~6 years old in full and their mothers who lived in Gwangju Metropolitan City, and its results were same as follows. First, dress preferences between children group and mother group were similar generally, but differences were displayed from dress lengths. That is, children preferred long length in general, and whereas mothers were come out to prefer shot length comparatively. Second, the study could get results by mixing ranking 1 and ranking 2 according to clothing design factors that were preferred by children group and mothers group deduced through an empirical analysis. Merely, the location according to decoration type was limited to ranking 1. Based on the research, this study expects that various forthcoming researches have been made continuously, and it could become a guideline for the development of children dress industry afterwards.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.469-475
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• 2014

This study's goal was to obtain basic data about the functional gowns of health care providers. 828 health care providers, including 150 doctors, 224 dentists, 202 nurses, 61 physical therapists and 191 medical technicians, living in Seoul and Daejeon areas, participated in this survey. A questionnaire was created using 15 items about the current health care providers' gowns. 15 items were consisted of 3 parts; satisfaction rate and activity (part 1), preference the details of medical gown (part 2), and personal information (part 3). In this study, "wearer activity" was the main concern for them and the majority of respondents, regardless of their age and type of work, preferred the V neckline, short gown length (waist line), loose sleeves and anti-bacterial textiles. Only the doctors preferred the full sleeves, whereas, the others preferred short sleeves. The younger health care providers showed a slightly higher preference for the slim type gown, while the older providers preferred the straight type. In this study, most health care providers were not satisfied with their current gowns, except dentists. Physical therapist answered the highest score of dissatisfied for current wearing medical gown among the all health care professionals. The 20's answered the highest score of dissatisfaction among the all generation.

• 한국멀티미디어학회논문지
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• 제15권7호
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• pp.941-950
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• 2012

본 연구에서는 PC상에서 인체 3차원 데이터에 상하의 의류를 중첩 착의하는 가상 착의 시스템을 소개한다. 이를 위하여, 레이저 스캔 방식으로 얻은 인체 3차원 데이터와 의류 앞뒷면의 모습을 촬영하여 얻은 의류 디지털 데이터를 이용한다. 2차원의 앞뒷면 의류 디지털 데이터에는 의류 소재 내 질점 간의 장력이 반영되었고, 인체 데이터에의 착의 과정에는 마찰력과 중력을 적용해 주었다. 하의 착용 시에는 마찰력과 중력에 추가적으로 혁대 개념을 도입하여 흘러내리는 의류를 고정하였고, 하의를 착의한 인체데이터위에 상의를 착의하는 중첩 착의 방법을 제시하였다. 본 시스템이 지닌 장점은 복잡한 패턴을 이용하여 착의하는 다른 연구와 달리, 의류의 앞뒷면만을 이용하여 착의하면서도 현실감은 뒤지지 않는다는 것에 있다. 현재 의류전자상거래 시 의류의 앞뒷면만을 전시하여 판매하는 방법과 유사한 방식으로 온라인 판매가 이루어지나, 착의 모습을 제공할 수 없는 기존 방식과 달리 3차원의 착의 모습까지 제공하게 되어, 의류 판매의 방식을 바꾸게 할 것으로 기대한다.