• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.2
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• pp.101-115
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• 2017

Ancient documents, characters, and relics are the utmost important materials when it comes to researching ancient clothing. Of these, the ancient characters explain the contents of the time, which makes it an objective historical record. China has hieroglyphics, such as oracle bone inscription and bronzeware script, which existed in Sang[Eun] Ju era. This character is formed by a simple line and detailed drawing, showing the object or the concrete form and characteristics, so the reader can understand the meaning. Oracle bone inscription and bronzeware script, which are written in pictograph, include contents that help to grasp the original shape and form of ancient official hats. Chinese characters Geon(巾, 건) Byun(㝸, 변) Myun(免, 면) Mo(冒, 모) Ju(冑, 주) and Kwan(冠, 관), which are the names of the official hats, have been researched, and Mi(美, 미) Ryung(令, 령) Wang(王, 왕) and Hwang(皇, 황), which are the characters related to the official hats, have been studied. Geon(巾, 건) switched its form from shape of material around waist to wraping wearer's head. Byun(㝸, 변) is a hat with decoration, and Myun(免, 면) is in form of a helmet with ornaments. Mo(冒, 모) in bone script looks like a hat with decorations on each sides, but in bronzeware script, it is more like a simple round hat Ju(冑, 주) covers one's head and has decorated ornaments, and The Kwan(冠, 관), which is now a common name of official hats, is not shown in oracle bone inscription or bronzeware script, It might have been used later than the other two types of hats. As for the related Chinese characters, Mi(美, 미) is in the shape of a feather decoration, Ryung(令, 령) is similar in shape to the letter 'A', and Wang(王, 왕) is in shape of simple hat from 령 with decorations. Hwang(皇, 황) is like a Wang(王, 왕) hat, but with fancier decorations. Oracle bone inscription and bronzeware script show the original form and shape of ancient hats.

• Journal of agricultural medicine and community health
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.237-244
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• 2006

Objectives: DASH (dietary approaches to stop hypertension) diet are recommended as first-line therapy for prevention of hypertension individuals with high normal blood pressure. We studied the effects of DASH program on blood pressure among the pre-hypertension group. Methods: To determine the impact of dietary patterns on the control of hypertension we studied the subgroup of 141 participants with systolic blood pressure of 120 to 139 mm Hg or diastolic BP of 80 to 89mmHg, body mass index(BMI) ${\geq}25kg/m^3$ or waist to hip ratio(WHR) ${\geq}0.95$(for man). 0.85(for woman) enrolled in DASH program. Participants were received of education and consulting about DASH every week for 8 weeks. Results: The level of diet to prevention of hypertension and compliance of DASH increased after education. Also, The DASH program significantly reduced systolic BP (from $136.03{\pm}12.40mmHg$ to $126.09{\pm}11.25mmHg$, p< .01) and diastolic BP (from $81.80{\pm}6.32mmHg$ to $76.44{\pm}10.61mmHg$, p< .01). Conclusion: The DASH program effectively lowers BP and may be useful in achieving prevention of hypertension.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.56-72
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• 1998

Vest is a general term for a sleeveless upper garment and it derives from a kolobus of a sleeveless tunic style that was started to be worn as a substitution of a chiton by the peasantry in Greek period. The kolobus started to be called a colobium or a tunica from Roman period and the former was named for a vest style tunica which was worn by the people of the lower classes in early Roman period. Similarly, a German colobium of North Europe which was worn during the same period was the same kind of clothe as the Roman colobium. The colobium came to be worn over a dalmatica as an outer garment by early Christians when it was the Middle Ages, who succeeded the tradition of colobium as they went through ancient Rome, Creek and Byzantine days. North Germans also succeeded the colobium tradition of ancient Germans as it was and so continued to wear it in tight style. The simple vest style of colobium was getting vanished from the mid of the Middle Agnes and a new style of vest named jupon was started to be worn by soldiers. The jupon was to protect soldiers' bodies from either were cold weather or enemies wearing under armors as it was made with double cotton pad by quilt. From 14th century, the jupon began to be worn by not only soldiers but also the humble of lower classes. All the jupon which were made in quilting and padding of that time began to be named a pourpoint by the humble. When Renaissance in 16th century came, the pourpoint began to be developed to an exaggerating body-line style. The neckline of pourpoint was getting highly influenced by Spain and a peacecod-belly of it emphasized the exaggerated masculine beauty of Renaissance by padding in round. The sleeves were puffed out and the whole purpoint was made to expose an inner chemise by slashing vertically or obliquely. But in 17th century, the pourpoint has been changed into more simple style without padding, puffing out and slashing influenced by the citizens' clothes of Netherlands. The pourpoint came to be more comfortable bulky style with short sleeves or sleeveless and straight side lines. The pourpoint in mid 17th century turned to be a bolero jacket style by gradually being tightened. It had been then changed into a vest style with sleeves and worn under an overcoat with the name of vest in the end of 17th century. The early vest was 2∼3 inches les in length than the overcoat and had long sleeves and many ornamental buttons on front. It was also made as a home wear to be worn it alone at home. In 18th century, the length of the vest became shorter compared with that of 17th century and the most important decorative item in clothes. It again came to have complete sleeveless vest style and had very short length reaching waist in the end of 18th century. When it was in 19th century, the vest had developed into more various style and colors and style had been applied to be worn by individuals with their tastes. Around the end of 19th century, the increasing tendency to be casual by industrialization influenced on clothes in all aspects of life and so the male vest has been gradually changed into more casual style. Nowadays, it has been developing into various uses in modern male clothes to show their characters.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.95-107
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• 2022

This study attempted to develop a bodice prototype suitable for the 20's obese male's trunk with a BMI of 25kg/m² or more, which is distinguished from the standard body type. Through this, it was intended to provide data to help the development of clothing for obese males. Patterns such as front bodice shoulder line and front sagging were modified through primary appearance and garment pressure evaluation. Through the second evaluation, corrections such as back armhole, back waistline, and front sagging were performed. Through the third evaluation, the final pattern drafting method was developed by removing the front sagging added through the second evaluation. In the case of obese male body types in their 20s, a drafting method distinguished from the standard body type was required in the method of setting the front and back waist lines, back armhole darts, and front shoulder lines due to protruding and posture of the abdomen. This study was meaningful in that it presented a bodice prototype drafting method suitable for the 20s obese males. In the follow-up study, it is thought that actual clothing experiments and studies to develop clothing patterns by applying them to obese male tops in their 20s should be conducted.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.252-258
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• 1999

The aims of this study is to classify the lower somatotype of adult women and appearance analysis on the shape of flare skirts by using the image processing. Also We have made skirts in order to analyze the various types of appearance of flare skirts by using the image processing. The subjects for our wear test lower somatotype, who were controlled in their waist, abdomen and hip shapes. The flare skirts used for wear test were 112 types(combinated 14 fabric type and 8 lower somatotype). The effect of lower somatotype on the shape of flare skirts was determined by the horizontally hem line section shape and the silhouette of flare skirts with image processing. The data were analyzed by using analysis of variance and Turkey, Duncan multiple range test. The results obtained are summarized as follows: It is shown that the fabric weight elongation differs in fabrics properties, in direction of textures. The shape horizontal section of flare skirt hem line has differed with the number of nodes, wave-height of nodes and breadth of silhouette by fabrics properties and lower somatotype. It is noticed that the breadth of flare skirts by the silhouette has high correlation with the drape ability of fabrics and lower somatotype. Results for our flare skirts show changes in amplitude and mean with fabrics, somatotype. Therefore we can say that gray-level histograms are correlated with changes in appearance, differences in drape spacing and related fabric properties and their somatotype.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.241-260
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• 1995

The Maori's traditional clothing materials, basic forms of dress, and the pattern and technique of tatoo were examined in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of the Maori. The research method employed was the analysis of written materials. And a fild-trip was also made for the study. The study was limitted to the traditional culture of body adornment of the Maori including the clothing which is preserved and practicing by them at the present day, and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are not included in the scope of the present study. Followings are the results of the study: (1) By far the most widely used fiber for Maori clothing is abtained from what is commonly called New Zealand Flax. The fiber of kiekie(Freycinetia baueriana) and cabbage trees(Cordyline spp.) may also be used. The strong, long-lasting fiber of toi(cordyline indivisa) is used for a prestige warrior's cloak. Flat strips of ti kauka(Cordyline australi) are also used as thatch on rain cloaks. (2) Regardless of technique used, Maori weaving is always worked horizontally from left to right. Traditionally the work was suspended between two upright turuturu or weaving sticks. As the work progressed a second pair of uprights was used to keep the work off the ground. These uprights were moved forward as required. Because the weaver sat on the ground, the working edge was kept at a height that was comfortable to reach. No weaving tools are used, the wefts(aho) being manipulated by the fingers. The two main Maori weaving techniques are whatu aho patahi(single-pair twining) and whatu aho rua(double-pair twining). (3) The Maori wore two basic garments - a waist met and a cloak. The cloth of commoners were of plain manufacture, while those of people of rank were superior, sometimes being decorated with feather or dyed tags and decorated borders. Children ran more-or-less naked until puberty, being dressed only for special events. Some working dress consisted of nothing more than belts with leaves thrust under them. Chiefs and commoners usually went barefoot, using rough sandals on journeys over rough country (4) The adornment of men and women of rank was an important matter of tribal concern as it was in chiefly persons that prestige of the group was centred, The durable items of Maori persons adornment were either worn or carried. Ornaments of various kinds were draped about the neck or suspended from pierced earlobes. Combs decorated the head. Personal decorations not only enhanced the appearance of men and women, but many had protective magical function. The most evident personal ornament was the hei-tiki made of jade or other material. Maori weapons were treasured by their owners. They served on bottle and were also personal regalia. A man of rank was not fully dressed without a weapon in hand. Also weapons were essential to effective oratory. (5) No man or woman of rank went without some tattoo adornment except in extremely rare instances when a person was too sacred to have any blood shed. The untattooed were marked as beeing commoners of no social standing. This indelible mark of rank was begun, with appropriate rite and ritual, at puberty. And tattoo marked the person as being of a marriageable age. Maori tattoo was unlike most traditional tattoo in that its main line were 'engraved' on the face with deep cuts made by miniature bone chisels. The fill-in areas were not tattooed with cuts but with the multiple pricks of small bone 'combs' that only lightly penetrated the skin surface. The instrument of tattoo consisted of small pots of pumice or wood into which was placed a wetted black pigment made from burnt kauri gum, burnt vegetable caterpillars or other sooty materials. A bird bone chisel or comb set at right angles on a short wooden handle was dipped into the gigment, that a rod or stick was used to tap head of this miniature adze, causing penetration of the skin surface. Black pigment lodged under the skin took on a bluish tinge. A full made facial tattoo consisted of major spirals with smaller spirals on each side of the nose and sweeping curved lines radiating out from between the brows over the forehead and from the nose to the chin. The major patterns were cut deep, while the secondary koru patterns were lightly pricked into the skin.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.242-253
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• 2020

Six ornamental metal quiver fittings were excavated from stone chamber No.1 of the ancient tombs of Jeongchon, Bokam-ri, Naju. The ornamental quiver fittings are metal, but the body of the quiver was made of organic material, so that it corroded and disappeared in the burial environment. The ornamental metal quiver fittings were made in pairs, and decorated one quiver according to the location they were found in and their forms. The ornamental metal quiver fitting can be divided into two types: A band style ornament (帶輪狀金具) which decorates the arrow pouch, and a board style ornament (板狀金具) which decorates the board connecting the waist belt. Two ornamental metal quiver fittings excavated from wooden coffin 2 of stone chamber No.1, were made in the band style, while the ornamental metal quiver fittings from southeast of stone chamber No.1 were identified as two boardstyle ornaments and two band-style ornaments for what was presumed to be belt loops. Material analysis of the ornamental metal quiver fittings shows that they are made of a gilt bronze plate attached to an iron plate, and the surface is marked with a speck of chisel to make lines and patterns. Chemical composition analysis (XRF) established that 24~40wt% Au and 50~93wt% Cu were detected on the gold surface, and it was confirmed that bronze corrosion had taken place on the gilt surface. SEM-EDS analysis of the gold plating layer identified a working line for glossing, and 7~9wt% Hg and an amalgam of gilt layers was detected, confirming the amalgam gilding. CT and FT-IR analysis established that the band style was double-layered with silk fabric under the iron plate, and there was also a lacquer piece underneath. The band-style ornaments have two layers of silk under the iron plate, along with lacquer pieces. Adding the fabric to the arrow pouch increases adhesion and decorative value. It is assumed that the lacquer pieces indicate that the surface of the lacquered arrow pouch had fallen together with the ornaments. On the other hand, the board-style ornaments have a thick layer of organic matter under the iron plate, but this is difficult to identify and appears to be a remnant of the quiver board. The characteristics of these ornamental metal quiver fittings were similar in Baekje, Silla, and Gaya cultures from the late 4th to the late 5th centuries, and enable us to identify the art of ancient gold craftwork at that time.

• Journal of Sasang Constitutional Medicine
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.295-310
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• 1999

Nowadays there are a lot of attempts and approaches in the Study of Oriental Medicine. The Morph&Image is one of them, and its importance is more and more increasing. Likewise, in the Sasang Consitutional Medicine, the Morph&Image is one of the important part too. And it is presented in the ${\ll}$Dorgyi SooseBowon(東醫壽世保元)${\gg}$. But that Discourse shows us only the concept and conclusion of Morph&Image, based on classification of Sasang Constitution, without explaining how it is derived. So the author studied the basic theory parts of ${\ll}$Dorgyi Soose Bowon${\gg}$-those are the , , , and - and wanted to find out the mechanism of Morph&Image concept in the Sasang Constitutional Medicine. The results were as follows. 1. Every portion of human body, can be considered as Morph&Image, in ${\ll}$Dorgyi Soose Bowon${\gg}$ could be explained in the line with the Sasang theory. Morph&Image in ${\ll}$Dorgyi Soose Bowon${\gg}$ contents not only the shape itself but also image, operation, mind condition, nature, emotion and so on. 2. The traditional Oriental Medicine has the Morph&Image categorized by Five elements(五行). And it is used for Oriental medical Diagnosis. But in the Sasang Constitution, Morph&Image is used for Sasang Constitutional classification. 3. The Morph&Image in Sasang could be classified into four groups. Affairs(事)- group(ears, eyes, nose, mouth(耳目鼻口) and so on), object(物)-group(lung, spleen, liver, kidney(肺脾肝腎)and soon), Mind(心)-group(jaw, chest navel, abdomen and so on) and Body(身)-group(head, shoulders, waist hips(頭肩腰臀) and so on) are those. Event and Object groups reflect the congenital conditions of Sasang-Classified human body, and Mind and Body groups reflect mind state, nature, emotion etc..