• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.10 no.3
• /
• pp.329-334
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this research is to develop the design, pattern and size system of brief as a measurement garment in order to obtain more precise silhouettes and sizes of the body in 3D measurements. The results of this research are as follows: First, nylon/lycra materials which elasticity is equivalent to 18%(wale) and 27%(course), were selected as a material for briefs to minimize possible error in measurement and deformation of body shape caused by looseness or tightness in its measured parts. And T-back style design was selected, of which briefs neither deform human body nor cause overlapping or excessive tightness when was put on the measurement garment over it. Second, different darts for men and women were adopted into the pattern in consideration for the shape of hip. Third, the waist band of briefs was located between the waistline and abdominal girth line so that it didn't interfere with measurement, and using a wide band of 40mm minimized the tightness of the human body. In addition, the stitch lines and sewing procedure were simplified to minimize the deformation of body shape resulting from inseams and stitch lines. Finally, for the size of briefs, 6 cm intervals were set on the basis of the waist girth and 8 kinds for men and 6 kinds for women were selected in descending order of appearance rate by the interval sections. English T meaning T-back design and numbers representing the waist girth were marked in parallel for the name of size.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.2
• /
• pp.162-180
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to find the basic design factors that affect the changes in body surface lines caused by lower limb movements, thereby resulting in slacks that fit well regardless of whether the human form is static or in motion. Using unmarried female university students aged 18-24 as subjects, a total of 32 body surface lines (15 body surface total lines and 17 body surface segment lines) were measured in one static and 9 movement poses, The analysis first involved the calculation of the expansion and contraction rates per body part in body surface line in 9 lower limb movements, Second, a factor analysis was conducted using the expansion and contraction rates of these changes in body surface line. The results of this study are as follows, According to the factor analysis, basic design factors that affect changes in body surface lines comprised 8 types of factors as illustrated in fig, 2-fig, 9, which explained 79.2% of total variate for the variables studied, Factor 1, comprising the lower segment of center back leg line, center front leg line and inner leg line, and lower limb girth except midway thigh girth and ankle girth below hip girth, accounted for 30.3% of total variance, Factor 2, comprising waist girth, the total and upper segment of center back leg line and center tront leg line, and front and back segment of crotch length, explained 17.4% of total variance, Factor 3, the total and upper segment of lateral leg line at the center, accounted for 56.5% of total variance in accordance with Factors 1, 2, and 3, Factor 4 was the contracting upper part of lower leg between legscye girth and midway thigh girth, Factor 5 comprised the total and upper segment of inner leg line and posterior knee girth, Factor 6 was the total crotch length, Factor 7 was the ankle girth, Factor 8 was the abdomen girth.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.27 no.1
• /
• pp.18-28
• /
• 2003

The purpose of this study is to provide total data of real body-type and self-evaluation about it. The subjects were 614 middle-aged women between 35 and 59 years old. Data were collected through measurement and a questionnaire survey on self-evaluation. The results of self-evaluation of body are as follows; 1. As the result of the recognition degree analysis, people consider themselves thicker, shorter or smaller than what they really we, regardless of ages and types. In addition, the women of younger group rather than the women of older group consider themselves bigger/thicker and shorter than what they really are. They think that the items of waist girth, abdominal girth, hip girth, upper arm girth. and thigh girth are thicker than the other items, however, among girth items the size of bust girth is smaller than the other items. The women of the late middle-aged group consider their somatotype thicker/bigger and shorter than the women of the early middle-aged group do. 2. As the result of body cathexis for each part, women in general rum out themselves not to be satisfied with their body parts, regardless of ages and types. Particularly, they are not satisfied with abdominal girth, weight, hip girth. According to the age bracket, the women in the older group are more satisfied than the women of younger group in terms of their body. According to somatotype, women in tall and slim groups are more satisfied with their body. The women of the early middle-aged group turn out not to be satisfied with girth items while the women of the late middle-aged group are not satisfied with length items.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.19 no.4
• /
• pp.93-104
• /
• 2017

This study is a basic study to develop shoe last design technology to enhance and revitalize the competitiveness of the handmade shoes. In-depth interviews were conducted with four manufacturers in Seongsu-dong to identify the production status and design technology of shoe lasts. The result of the research is as follows. Firstly, shoe lasts for adults are produced at intervals of 5mm between 245mm-285mm for men's shoes, and between 220-260mm for women's shoes. The production rate of women's shoes was high in the order of general type, boot type, and sandal type while men's shoes mainly produce general type. Secondly, the master last size and ball girth rating for men's and women's shoes were analyzed to EE-EEE grade at 260mm and D grade at 235mm. The length of the master last for men's shoes is 276-290mm, the heel width is 60-65mm, the ball width is 88-90mm, the ball girth is 250mm, and the waist girth is 248mm. The length of the master shoe last for women's shoes is 236-245 mm, the heel width is 50-55mm, the ball width is 78-80mm, the ball girth is 211~213mm, and the waist girth is 213~215mm. Thirdly, the last grading deviation is 5mm in length, the heel width is 0.5mm, the ball girth is 3.5mm, and the ball with is 1.2mm. The ball girth dimensions of Oxford type, slip-on type, and sneakers type are made at 250mm, 248mm, and 245mm for men's shoes. For women's shoes, the ball girth dimensions of pump type, loafer & boot type, and sandal type are made at 211~213mm, 214~215mm, and 211mm. Fourthly, t+he construction of the automation system is insufficient and almost completely depends on manual production.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.15 no.4 s.40
• /
• pp.393-403
• /
• 1991

The purpose of this study were to explain the difference in body dimensions and body shape between the early in the twenties and the late in the twenties and to get information clothing construction. Subject were 483 Korean males, which were extracted from men's physique investigation on June to August in 1989, consisted of 149 aged $19\~24$ and $25\~29$. T-test and factor analysis were applied to 52 measurement items and 58 indices. The Result of the study were as follow; 1. As regards $19\~24$ aged group, they were taller their waistband level was higher than the late in the twenties. Upper arm and thigh were thick in comparison with trunk. As the difference between shoulder and waist in dimension was great, they showed reverse triangular silhouette. As regard $25\~29$ aged group, their body from variation between individual was greater than that of 19~24 aged group and they were obese on mainly waist and abdominal parts. For that reason, waist band level became low and their shoulder and hip looked slim relatively that reason, waist band level became low and their shoulder and hip look slim relatively to bust and waist parts. 2. Between $19\~24$ aged and $25\~29$ aged groups, as each had charicteristic body from, there was the difference in factor structure. 3. The change of men's body from with age in their twenties was obeseness on the whole body but the increasing rate of upper arm and thigh girth was less than that of trunk girth.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.36 no.4
• /
• pp.391-399
• /
• 2012

This study helps out-size consumers purchase swimsuits and improves fitness by classifying the torso of middle-aged obese women; in addition, it creates a size system based on each size interval for obese types. The criteria for subjects in this study were over 25kg/$m^2$ of the BMI, over 85cm of waist, and over 95cm of bust; 199 females were surveyed. Three torso types were categorized by a cluster analysis into X type (the vertical size of hip girth was the biggest of the three and the waist was slender), H-O type (larger than other groups in bust girth with more fat above the circumstance of the abdomen), and Y type (the upper half of body development type and lower body fatness were between those of type X and those of type H-O). As a consequence of size system establishment according to obesity types, the basic body sizes and reference body sizes were different according to types even in commonly-appeared size names at sections of respective types. The research findings show the necessity to understand obesity types according to bust girth and hip girth sizes that represent basic sizes as well as to design patterns in consideration of the characteristics of obese body shapes when swimsuits are designed for obese groups. The findings can be used as basic data to decide the desirable output of production according to respective body types.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.15 no.2 s.67
• /
• pp.265-275
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the ease of stretchable jackets which has been common since the mid-1990s and the whole actual conditions in making the lining fabrics. This can be done by investigating the actual conditions of domestic clothes businesses about the consumers. The outcomes of this study are as follows; The result of the survey in the differences of the ease between regular and stretchable fabrics shows that the pattern of designing stretchable fabrics needs diminishing the width of shoulder is 0.42cm, the whole girth chest is 1.83cm, the whole girth of waist is 0.88cm. It also shows that designing the ease of the whole girth of chest is 1.91cm to 2.54cm in the regular lining fabrics and is from 0 to 1.27cm in the stretchable fabrics more than the right side of fabrics. The ease of the whole girth of waist is similar to the round chest, in which the bottom sweep for garment is almost equal to the right side of fabrics in both regular lining fabrics and stretchable fabrics. The result of investigating the actual conditions of making the lining fabrics of stretchable jacket fabrics shows that 80% of a woman's wear brand produces and gives the pattern of the lining fabrics only for the special designing to the cooperative clothes manufactures. The business which always provides the patterns for the lining fabrics in the main office is only limited to 20%. Also, it shows that using the lining fabrics of stretchable jacket fabrics and regular lining fabrics together is 46.7%, the stretchable lining fabrics is 40% and the regular lining fabrics is 13.3% only.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.4 no.2
• /
• pp.137-144
• /
• 2002

This study was to provide the fundamental data for a scientific and rational clothing construction by investigating the variation of the upper body surface with the use of the method of Surgical tape. The subject were 3 middle elementary schoolboys classified standard somatotype, and arm-movements were consisted of 6 types. The statistical analyses used in this study were mean, standard deviation and the ANOVA and LSD procedure. Shoulder point was moved to be the inside or upside and the shape of the armhole-line was differently changed as the arm-movement become larger. By moving to upside of the anterior armpit point, posterior armpit point and armpit point, the increase of the side seam length and the ascent of the line of width between armpits were distinct. And by arm-movements, in the items of horizontal, front neck base girth, back upper bust girth, back bust girth and back waist girth were increased and the other standard lines were apt to be decreased. In the items of vertical, all standard lines of front side and side seam length showed increased, back waist length and back length showed decreased. The variation of armhole was indefinite. In the rate of the variation, the shoulder length showed the maximum rate of contraction by 41.3%, decreasing 3.7 cm in $180^{\circ}$ degrees, and the side seam length showed the maximum rate of expansion by 60.6%, increasing 8.97 cm in the same degrees.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.18 no.5
• /
• pp.685-694
• /
• 2016

This study investigates the problems of fitness and motion suitability for Korean male military winter jackets (inner and outer) and provides data for new pattern development. We analyzed fitness and motion suitability by a questionnaire survey with 140 Korean male soldiers and a wearing evaluation with 7 subjects of central army male size. A survey of male soldiers indicated that the fitness and motion suitability satisfaction was over 3.0 (Likert scale) for both inner and outer jackets. There were opinions that the sleeve length was short for the inner jacket and the waist girth and hem girth was slightly large for the outer jacket. In the wearing evaluation results with subjects of central army male size, fitness of total length, sleeve length and collar height showed a score lower than 3.0 for the inner jacket and collar height on the outer jacket. The motion suitability result showed a low score (1.0-2.0) in an arm raising motion for the inner jacket and 2.0-3.0 at neck motion in the outer jacket. In conclusion, there is more dissatisfaction in inner jackets than outer jackets. For the inner jacket, sleeve is short, sleeve hem is narrow, collar height is a little high and the sleeve creeps up during arm motion. The waist girth and hem girth was slightly large and collar height was a little high for the outer jacket.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.31 no.3 s.162
• /
• pp.364-375
• /
• 2007

The propose of this study is to develop the optimal sizing system of ready-to-wear far elementary school boys using a newly invented statistical technique. The body measurements was classified by the method that equalizes the distribution of the subjects using the probability density function, to theoretically systemize a method to determine a size range of ready-to-wear for elementary school boys between 7 to 12 yeiws old. The results were as follows: 1. Height group includes 9 types of heights: 115, 120, 125, 130, 135, 140, 145, 150 and 155. 2. In the case of short children's groups, the variance in bust girth and waist girth is narrow. The people cluster together around the average. The size deviation of ready-to-wear is small. 3. In the case of tall children's groups, the variance in bust girth and waist girth is wide. The people spread widely around the average. The size deviation of ready-to-wear is large. 4. The optimal size system is suggested considering the weight of growth exponent of children according to their respective ages. Clothing companies can selectively choose sizes that meet the target of their brands. 5. It suggests the body sizes chart, which based on their means by the middle size children for each height group, so that clothing companies make use of it.