• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.83-92
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• 2003

This study aims to classify women's undergarments of the 20th century by periods, and to examine their characteristics. The research method consists of a literature study based on relevant documentary records and a demonstrative analysis of graphic data collected from each reference. The features of women's undergarments obtained from the study are as follows: First, silhouette changes of outer garments appear to influence the type and style of a new undergarment. Second, technological development results in a new type of undergarments. Third, the development of new material appears to influence functions and design of undergarments. Fourth, social changes including the development of sports affects the changes of undergarments. As seen so far, the form or type, material, and color in undergarment diversify when fashion changes become varied and rapid. As shown before the 20th century, the importance of undergarment's type, form, and function gradually reduces according to the changes of women's mind due to their social participation, although it still plays a role in correcting the shape of an outer garment based on the outer silhouette. The design also clearly shows the extremes of maximization and minimization of decoration.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.93-107
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• 2018

A questionnaire survey was conducted on male and female college students living in Busan in May 2015 to study customer types and purchasing behaviors based on the benefit sought from undergarments. This study used a total of 460 data reports collected from 203 male and 257 female college students. The results of this study were as follows. First, the undergarment benefits sought were divided into material and function, harmony of outerwear and underwear and design. Consumers were categorized into function seekers, brand and design seekers, and undergarment indifferent customers. In addition, while male college students were likely to be function seekers, female college students were mostly brand and design seekers. Second, both male and female respondents showcased significant differences in the undergarment benefits sought depending on their customer type. Based on the customer type, male college students showed a greater difference in the undergarment benefits they sought when compared to their female counterparts, and marked differences were found in male respondents' undergarment material and function factors and female respondents' harmony factor of outerwear and underwear. Based on their sex, a significant difference in the harmony factor of outerwear and undergarments was observed. Third, after examining the purchasing behavior influenced by the customer type, this study found that both male and female students had undergarment purchasing behavior differences depending on their customer type, while function seekers and design seekers were likely to exhibit similar behaviors in purchasing undergarments regardless of their sex, except for their preferred image and purchasing method of undergarments. However, among the indifferent group of customers, there were significant differences depending on their sex.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.5
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• pp.890-909
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• 2022

This study explores the types of clothing imported from Japan during the port-opening era and investigates the characteristics of import trade related to these clothing products. This is a literature study based on trade statistics data and books on Western clothing published in Japan during the Meiji period. Research findings are as follows: clothing products imported from Japan were divided into 6 types: 1) clothing, 2) undergarments, 3) shirts, 4) waterproof coats, 5) European-style clothing, and 6) nightgowns. "Clothing" is a unified name for any kind of garment, appearing in import records only from 1877 to 1884. Undergarments and shirts were imported from 1884. Waterproof coats were imported only in 1886 and 1898. European-style clothing and nightgowns were imported from 1902. In the total import of clothes, the proportion of clothing was the highest (48.0%), followed by undergarments (41.3%) and shirts (10.6%), while the ratio of nightgowns and raincoats was almost 0%. During the port-opening period, the change in the import value of clothes did not show a continuous increase, but rather showed a large stepwise increase over the course of several years.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.508-512
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• 2010

To study the development trends of domestic apparel design, we analyzed patent applications that were applied to the field of apparel design. It was presumed that economic and social environment have affected directly on the number of apparel design applications. Since year 2000, the whole number of apparel design applications has shown a remarkably increasing tendency, but depending on the items, the trends of patent applications have different tendency. While the number of applications regarding western costume such as a jacket, pants, suit and coat has been increasing from mid 2000s, the number of applications regarding Hanbok and undergarments have been decreasing from mid 2000s. In early 2000s, there were a lot of applications relating to design creation due to combination of color and form in apparel design. However, from mid 2000s, variety of techniques such as granting functional characteristics, asymmetry construction, introduction of various textiles, techniques of draping were being applied in design creation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.493-511
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• 2000

The objective of this study was to trace and to examine costume terminologies recorded in Pak Tong Sa Eun Hae. Names of costumes and costume related terms were collected from P마 Tong Sa Eun Hae. Books and various references from China and Korea were used for this study. Costume terms were examined from the Chinese and Korean. Classifications of costume terminologies from the data were made for the analysis : man and woman's costume, accessories, names of fabrics, colors, and decorative motifs used, professional costume, special occasion dresses and so on. Conclusions and summary of results and findings can be summerized as follows : It revealed that manes of man's costume and other costume related words were a large in number compared with those of woman. Only one name of woman's costume appeared in the text : It was kind of long vests. However, names of accessories such as a hat, a hat decorated with jewels and phoenix design, a hair pin, earings, bracelets, finger rings, a soft belt were shown in the text. While many costume names of man included in the text were of garments such as a kind of long vest, a short vest, an outer robe, a kind of long coat with pleated skirt, leg coverings, outer jacket and so on. Also names of undergarments such as an under skirt, a belly covering, and drawers were found in the text. Fabric names were mostly silks such as brocade, twill, sarcenet, damasks and plain silks. Blue was the most widely appeared fabric color in the text and red was the second. Design motifs of fabric design were of dragon, flowers, eight precious things, clouds which were characteristic design motifs of the Chinese. It was found that some of the Chinese costume terminologies were translated into the Korean although many Chinese costume terms were used as the original Chinese.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 2011

This study tests the performance of the recommended winter dress OnMapsi for an office worker through the analysis of skin temperature changes according to the heating environment. We tested and compared the effects of with/without undergarments for 4 male subjects in an artificial-climate chamber with two air temperatures of $19^{\circ}C$ and $22^{\circ}C$, $50{\pm}10%$ R.H. During the 60 minute experiment that simulated office work, the subjective feelings (that included thermal, humidity and comfort sensation, and skin temperature) were measured at equal intervals. The results show that the forehead and chest skin temperatures were not affected by air temperature or clothing type, while the hand and foot skin temperatures were affected at $0.3-0.9^{\circ}C$ depending on clothing type and $1.9-2.2^{\circ}C$ depending on air temperature. The mean skin temperature was decreased by the experimental time pass more with regular formal wear than with OnMapsi. The second experiment located the ambient temperature in which subjects wearing OnMapsi show equal skin temperaturesto those without undergarments at $22^{\circ}C$. Therefore it is possible to decrease heating temperatures to $18-21^{\circ}C$ in the office for winter OnMapsi wear that produces a skin temperature and thermal sensation that is the same as those at $22^{\circ}C$.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.203-212
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• 1998

During the Baroque Ages, the underclothes of both sexs developed a new significance. They ceased altogether to be merely utilitarian in function, and were exploited, to a striking degree, to indicate class distinction and sex attraction. Up to this period, as e have seen, the underclothes of men and women had very much the same significance, but from now on there is a division. The male garments are designed mainly to express social rank, the female mainly to attract. The man's shirt is an integral part of the visible costume of the find gentleman. After 1660, The fashion portrayed by the men, exhibiting the shirt extruding between the bottom of the waistcoat and the top of the breeches is still more remarkable and significant. The period is important in that it was the last time that the male attempted to give his under clothing an erotic suggestion. It was their experience that silk and linen garments next to the skin were less liable than wool to harbour lice. Until the era of physical cleanliness opened a century later, woollen undergarments were rarely worn. the nineteenth century accepted cleanliness as a sign of class distinction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.298-310
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was 1) to analize the female figures with potbelly in the nude of the 15th-l6th century, 2) to find out the historic event which made these figures appeared, and 3) to clarify the influence these figures on dress. The results were as follows: 1) There was a sudden decrease in population by the Black Death in the Middle of the fourth century, so supplement of labor was urgent demand at that imp. Childbirth was the only way of supplement of manpower. 2) Therefore, the figure of pregnant woman was regarded as the female figure ideal. The artists depicted this figure ideal in nude. 3) This female figure ideal changed the form of dress. Pillow, pad, and special undergarments were used to make potbelly.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.1 s.215
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• pp.159-168
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyse the types of expression of fashion magazine advertising using the Foote, Cone and Belding(FCB) GRID model. Consequently, this study examined the presentation of fashion magazine advertising. The fashion magazine advertising(771 cases in women's magazines, 120 cases in men's magazines) was classified according to the FCB GRID model. The fashion magazine advertising was categorized into high involvement-feeling goods(jewelry, accessories, bags, shoes, perfumes, men and women dresses, jeans, bathing suits etc.), low involvement-feeling goods(casual wears, imitation accessories etc.), high involvement-thinking goods(cosmetics, underwears, sports shoes etc.) and low involvement-thinking goods(hair goods, sports wears, undergarments etc.). A great of the fashion advertising consisted of photography and the emotional approach. Thinking goods placed emphasis on the functional value, whereas high involvement-feeling goods placed emphasis on the emotional value and low involvement-feeling goods on the fashionable value.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.56-67
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• 1999

At the turn of the 19C, the first development, spreading to the all classes that peculiar attitude of mind associated with the term prudery. The second changes of habit which affected both sexes and their undergarments were the novel idea of personal cleanliness. Drawers appear to have been of two lengths, short, when worn under breeches, and long when worn under pantaloons and trousers. The dandy wore corsets for beauty. In the early part of the 19C, the differences between day and evening style came to be accentuated. Not only the beau, but the soldier and hunting man were addicted to stays. The high standing collars of the early 1800s became fairly low in the middle of the century. in mid of the 19C, a woolen under-vest was worn next to the skin and studs were an usual fashion. At about 1850 the bottom of the shirt was cut in a curve. For evening dress the elliptic collar was introduced.