• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2007

This research was designed to compare the subjective evaluation of Hand between on- and off-line by structure and sensible characteristics of fabric. 113 subjects who have a fashion design major evaluated the subjective evaluation of Hand of various 16 kinds of specimens on- and off-line. T-test and pearson correlation coefficient were used for statistical analysis by SPSS WIN 11.0. The results of this study were as follows: The results of correlation analysis of the evaluation score indicated that Crash and Satin show high correlation between two kinds of evaluation score. But, fabrics which have distinct characteristics such as Plush, Dobby, Seersucker represented low correlation coefficient. The results of t-test fer the difference of the evaluation score showed that thin fabrics like Organdy represent a large difference between on- and off-line evaluation. On the other hand, twill weaved fabrics like Drill, Tweed, Saxony did not show many differences. Analysing each item in terms of correlation of evaluation of hand between on- and off-line gave results that the shininess was most deliverable through on-line and density and the dryness was not so deliverable through on-line. Comparison of evaluation score between on- and off-line items showed that the estimation to real fabric is more negative than that of on-line. The results of most preferable hand between on-and off-line showed exact opposite preference between shinny, smooth and soft Satin and rough, woolen Tweed. Organdy showed the most different subjective evaluation of hand in real ones compared with that of on-line.

• 복식
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• 제62권3호
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• pp.137-151
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• 2012

In 1966, $Seokgatap$ pagoda in $Bulguksa$ temple was damaged by the tomb robbers and was dismantled to fix the damage. In the process, many offerings to Buddha and containers for Sarira(the cremated remains) were found in $Sarigong$(specially designated space for the Sarira casket) inside the second floor of the pagoda. Many fabrics like $Geum$, $Neung$(twill), $Rha$(complex gauze), silk tabby and linen were also excavated. In this study, $Geum$ fabric from the $Seokgatap$ was closely examined. $Geum$ of $seokgatap$ is weft-faced compound weave according to the analysis of its weaving pattern which was wrongly presumed as warp-faced compound weave for some time. Technical analysis of $Geum$: Main: silk, Binding: silk, Proportion: 1 main warp to 1 binding warp, Count: 15 main warps and 15 binding warps per centimeter, Weft: polychrome silk without apparent twist, Colors: yellow, mustard yellow, deep blue, green and purple, Weave: weft-faced compound twill, 1/2 S. $Geum$ of $Seokgatap$ was made in the $8^{th}$ century, since it was weaved in weft-faced compound weave twill which was popular in the $8-9^{th}$ century. And also, the arrangement of the colors was done in the same way of gradation $Geum$ silk which was popular in the $7-8^{th}$ C in China and Japan. Third, we restored the pattern of $Geum$ of the Unified Shilla Dynasty for the first time. It was very difficult to figure out the shape and the size of pattern since the fabric was partially lost and ruined. We tried to draw the diagram of structure with the cross point of the warp and the weft to restore the pattern. By doing so, we could identify two kinds of small flower pattern, palmette and the pattern of repeating vines. Fourth, we could infer that the $Geum$ of $Seokgatap$ was used for $geumdae$(a pouch made of $geum$) by analyzing all the documents and the characteristics of the fabric.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.493-511
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• 2000

The objective of this study was to trace and to examine costume terminologies recorded in Pak Tong Sa Eun Hae. Names of costumes and costume related terms were collected from P마 Tong Sa Eun Hae. Books and various references from China and Korea were used for this study. Costume terms were examined from the Chinese and Korean. Classifications of costume terminologies from the data were made for the analysis : man and woman's costume, accessories, names of fabrics, colors, and decorative motifs used, professional costume, special occasion dresses and so on. Conclusions and summary of results and findings can be summerized as follows : It revealed that manes of man's costume and other costume related words were a large in number compared with those of woman. Only one name of woman's costume appeared in the text : It was kind of long vests. However, names of accessories such as a hat, a hat decorated with jewels and phoenix design, a hair pin, earings, bracelets, finger rings, a soft belt were shown in the text. While many costume names of man included in the text were of garments such as a kind of long vest, a short vest, an outer robe, a kind of long coat with pleated skirt, leg coverings, outer jacket and so on. Also names of undergarments such as an under skirt, a belly covering, and drawers were found in the text. Fabric names were mostly silks such as brocade, twill, sarcenet, damasks and plain silks. Blue was the most widely appeared fabric color in the text and red was the second. Design motifs of fabric design were of dragon, flowers, eight precious things, clouds which were characteristic design motifs of the Chinese. It was found that some of the Chinese costume terminologies were translated into the Korean although many Chinese costume terms were used as the original Chinese.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제28권2호
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• pp.52-60
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• 1986

견직물에 효소에 의한 정련처리를 비누-소다정련과 함께 실시한 후 이들 정련견포에 대하여 KES-F System을 적용하여 역학적 특성 즉 인장, 굽힘, 전단, 압축 및 표면특성을 측정하고 태값을 산출하여 효소정련과 비누-소다정련견포의 태값을 비교한 결과 1. 능하부다이 견직물의 경우 효소정련을 하면 포의 Stiffness가 비누-소다정련을 한 것에 비하여 감소되었고 Smoothness와 Soft feeling은 증가하였다. 2. 크\ulcorner데신 견직물의 경우 효소정련을 하면 비누-소다 정련에 비하여 Stiffness와 Anti-Drape Stiffness는 감소되었으며 Fullness와 종합 태값인 Flexibility with soft feeling은 향상되었다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.10-19
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• 1993

Broad, mercerized broad, mercerized twill cotton fabrics and rayon fabric were treated with cellulase for 30~480 minutes at different temperature, concentration, time, and also treating methods such as continuously-treated or repeatedly-treated, and dyed with two direct dyes before or after enzyme treatment. From the experimental result by treating under the various conditions above, it was obtained that the weight loss increased more in thin fabric than thick one. In addition, it was considered that the treatment in 5$0^{\circ}C$ for 240 minutes brought about the ideal weight loss and flexible hand of the specimens. For both broad and mercerized broad, repeated treatment showed more weight loss than continuous. Direct dye on cotton fabric apparently inhibited hydrolysis. Ionic surfactants showed the inhibition effect of the catalytic hydrolysis of enzyme, on the other hand, nonionic surfactant did not.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.1061-1074
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• 2011

This study was conducted based on a comparative analysis of design-specific features prevalent in the Women's Wear Collection S/S 2011. As the method of this study, the denim styles were classified by various fashion design factors consisting of silhouette, fit, color, and textile fabric, which were extracted from an image database. The properties of denim fabrics associated with each fashion image were investigated to inform fabric development and washing. The results of the study show that the dense and glossy surface of the denim fabric represent a modern trend, which can be achieved by blending lyocell, tencel and rayon or by using different textiles, such as lightweight plain weave and satin instead of twill. For casual look, various washing effects were utilized jean's casual feeling like freedom and activities, while in a modern image, washing effects was restricted. And a glossy textile offers a simple modern look. The Modern image represents a simple H-silhouette and wide or straight fit in bottoms as well. Brightness can be adjusted by washing-induced bleaching. High brightness gives an elegant image, while low brightness makes a casual image. The purpose of this study is to configure a database for the development of design in the growing women's casual wear market. In addition, This study, in which the elements for specific fashion image-making were analyzed, can be used as a reference for developing denim style and fabric.

• 한국CDE학회논문집
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.70-79
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• 2017

Weft straightener is an important process to control the final quality of the fabrics. It is needed to calibrate the distorted weft after dyeing process. During various fabric treatment processes, the fabric is almost done with heat treatment through a tenter machine. At this time, weft distortion is occurred with uneven tension distribution. Traditionally, photo sensor is commonly used to detect the weft distortion but it is not applicable for special fabric types such as twill, mesh, combi, etc. In this paper, a new method for detecting the weft distortion using camera is introduced. A new weft straightener simulator is also developed to test the ability of the proposed method. It is shown that the method can be applied for various fabric types.

• 한국농림기상학회지
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• 제3권3호
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• pp.135-142
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• 2001

이 연구는 강원도 지역의 시계열 기상자료와 산불발생현황자료를 이용하여 시ㆍ군별 산불발생유형을 구분하고자 지역간 기상요인과 발생원인 그리고 산불발생 일을 근거로 한 지역별 유형화 구분을 목적으로 시도되었다. 기상요인에 의한 산불발생 유형화에서는 최근 6년간의 강원도 소재 기상대의 기상자료를 적용하였으며, 지역과 산불발생원인과의 관련성 규명과 산불발생일의 불일치계수를 이용한 수량화된 다차원척도법 유형화에서는 최근 10년간의 산불발생현황자료를 적용하였다. 연구결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 강원도 동해안산불과 같은 대형산불에 관련되는 기상요인으로는 평균온도, 최저온도, 최저초상온도, 평균풍속, 최대풍속 등으로 규명되었다. 둘째, 산불발생원인과 지역간의 관계를 도식화한 대응일치분석 결과에서는 지역과 산불발생원인과의 관계에서 가장 확연히 구분되는 지역으로는 '강릉'의 경우로 '방화'와 깊은 관련이 있는 것으로 나타났으며, '삼척'은 '입산자실화'와 '철원', '화천', '양구'지역은 군사훈련과 관계하는 것으로 보여지며, '속초'와 '춘천'의 경우에는 '쓰레기 소각'과 '담뱃불'이 타지역보다 밀접한 관련성이 있는 것으로 나타났다. 마지막으로 산화발생일을 근거로 각 시ㆍ군의 산불발생 유사성 정도 및 유형화 구분을 위한 다차원척도법 적용결과에서는 강원도 18개 시ㆍ군 지역이 5개의 유형으로 분류되었는데, 유형 I로 구분된 지역으로는 삼척, 강릉, 춘천, 원주, 홍천, 횡성으로 나타났으며, 유형 Ⅱ는 동해, 태백, 양양, 평창지역, 유형 Ⅲ은 정선, 철원, 화천지역, 유형 Ⅵ는 고성, 인제, 양구지역이, 그리고 마지막으로 유형 V는 속초와 영월지역으로 구분되었다. 지금까지의 도출된 연구결과들은 산불현황자료와 기상자료를 기초로 하여 도출된 결과를 근거로 제시하였고, 지역별 산불발생 특성을 보다 체계적으로 구분하기 위하여는 이외에도 지역별 임상요인과 지형 및 사회적 요인에 대한 검토들이 병행되어야 할 것으로 판단된다.의 경쟁이 생장에 영향을 미치는 것이 사실이다. 따라서 앞으로의 연구에서는 지형, 토양, 미기후 조건, 그리고 임목 간의 경쟁관계가 종합적으로 고려된 환경요인에 의한 생장특성을 파악하는 연구가 필요하다. 아울러 본 연구에서와 같이 지형기후학적 방법에 의하여 추정된 미기후를 통하여 보다 정확한 결과를 얻기 위해서는 무인자동기상관측 망의 설치를 통하여 이를 검증하는 작업이 필요하다.deling of self-similar traffic.ti colored dan have been produced after 1960's. Around the end of 1980's, automatic shuttle change loom have been generalized and 7 color dan(칠색단), 9 color gumsadan (구색금사단) have been current in multi colored dan. In terms of materials, synthetic and chemical textiles had been used widely and alter 1980's most fabrics, of which the ground weave is not being woven with satin-weave but being woven with plain or twill-weave, are named Dan in general.Standards for Livestock Products of Korea". The measured mean concentrations of Ca, Fe, Zn were generally higher than lower limit of labeled value(above 80% of labeled value). The mean concentration of sodium was lower than upper limit of labeled value(below 120％ of labeled value).