• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.88-101
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• 2011

This study emphasizes on the characteristics of the excavated fabrics from the tomb of Kimwhoak in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. All of 118 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the tomb of Kimwhoak. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 63 pieces of spun silk tabby(53.6%), 14 of spun yarn silk(11.9%), 13 of thin filament silk tabby(11.0%), 8 of thin silk tabby(6.8%), 4 of satin without pattern(3.4%), 3 of filament silk tabby(2.5%), 3 of twill without pattern(2.5%), 2 of satin damask(1.7%), 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton(1.7%), and 2 of ramie fabric(1.7%), 1 of simple gauze without pattern(0.8%), 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread(0.8), 1 of cotton(0.8%), 1 of etc(0.8%). Classified by ways of weaving: 106 pieces of plain weave(89%), 6 of satin weave(5%), 3 of twill weave (3%), 1 of gauze weave(1%), 1 of compound weave(1%) and etc(1%). In point of patterns, the most of textiles are without pattern, there are only two of them are patterned textile. such as lotus patterns with vine, peony patterns with vine. Their patterns are very similar to those of other tombs in the same age.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.132-151
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• 2009

All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.32-43
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• 2006

Excavated fabrics from Papyeung-yun's tomb totals at 208 in their numbers. They comprised 118 pieces of silk tabby(紬), 16 pieces of thin silk tabby, 8 pieces of thin filament silk tabby (絹), 43 pieces of satin damask(段), 8 pieces of compound satin(金線), 1 piece of twill(綾), 1 piece of complex gauze(羅), l piece of simple gauze(紗), 4 pieces of cotton(綿布), 4 pieces of hemp(麻布) and 3 pieces of ramie(苧布). As shown in the preceding list, $95\%$ of all the items are weaved from silk. To list a few characteristics of excavated fabrics from Papyoung-Yun's lineage, there are A vivid gold-colored compound satin, a uniquely patterned satin damask, various silk tabbies, and 4-end complex gauze of Neoul that is women's head cover. To note, names of the fabrics used in this article are based on the information from the literatures and are as following silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, filament silk tabby(絹), satin damask(段), compound satin(金線), complex gauze(羅), simple gauze(紗), cotton(綿布), twill(綾), hemp(麻布)and ramie(苧布).

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.400-406
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate characteristics of arrangement methods and weaving types of fabrics during 16-17 century. Research was done through the references of exhumed clothing in Chosun Dynesty. Seeing the waving types of fabrics of flower patterned fabrics of total 108 items, satin damask(Dahn) was 71items, took the majority. And the next order was twill(Neung) and plain(Ju). It means Dahn was the most popular fabric among the upper classes. It was regarded as one of the noble textiles, because of its luxurious appearance and pleasant touch. Flower patterned plain fabric(Munju) was found only 9items, even though the plain fabric was the most common used type. Assumed for the reason, Chosun government had restrict to extravagance of the people. In terms of the arrangement of flower pattern, it can be classified into three methods. The most common arrangement method was Arabesque type, followed by open order shaped type and scattering shaped type. In the repetition of pattern, there were brick-shaped pattern and half drop pattern which were spread flower pattern all over the surface of fabric.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.159-165
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• 2000

This study surveys the fabric mechanical properties according to the weaving design & finishing conditions of wool fabrics for quality control in the process. For this purpose, 8 kinds of Twill groups and 3 kinds of Plain groups weave fabrics, totally 428 woven fabrics are prepared with change of the yarn count, density and finishing method. Fabric thickness, bending rigidity, extensibility, shear rigidity, formability of the fabrics were measured and discussed with weaving design & finishing conditions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.53-75
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• 1998

The kind, the structure, and the motif of the Chosun dynasty's fabrics found mainfy within the Buddhist statues were studied. The total of 62 pieces of fabrice can be classified chronologically as follows ; 27 pieces in the year of 1431, 20 pieces of 1550, 9 pieces of 1664, and 6 pieces of 1735. These 62 fabrics also categorized by the weaving method as follows; 27 plain weaved, 17 twill weaved, 10 pieces of satine weaved, 7 pieces of Leno weaved, and 1 piece of double weaved fabrics. Most of the studied fabrics were silk, the rest were 2 pieces of yam and 1 piece of cotton, Kyun, Chu, and Cho were the plain weaved silk as Nung and Ki were the twill weaved silk, Satine weaved silk was called as Dan and double weaved silk was called Chikum in the Chosun dynasty. 1. The antique fabrics were composed of mainly silk. This is believed due to the utmost devotion to the buddhist statue as an object of worship. 2. In the fabric's structural point of view, th ecrossed 4-ply threads of warp yarn which is one of Leno weaved can be observed fre-quently in the period of Korea dynasty's fabrics. But it started to disappear in the beginning of Chosun dynasty, since only one piece of Ra could be found in the 1431's fabrics. Keum, one of the double weaved structure is assumed to be extinct from the Korea dynasty. Satin weaved fabrics started to be woven from the latter period of Korea dynasty and was very popular in Chosun dynasty. 3. The widths of fabrics in the Chosun dynasty gradually decreased compared with those of Korea dynasty.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.17 no.5 s.84
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• pp.45-52
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• 2005

The optimum fabric design plan is recently needed with the relevant fabric shrinkage in dyeing and finishing processes for the various sensible fabrics for garment. For responding this need, the difference of fabric design plan such as fabric density, yarn count and finishing shrinkage has to be surveyed with weaving looms such as water jet, air-jet and rapier looms, and also has to be analysed with weave pattern such as plain, twill and satin according to the fabric manufacturers. Therefore, in this study, 420 polyester weave pattern sheets are collected from 5 fabric manufacturers, and the weave density coefficients of these fabrics are calculated using yarn count, fabric density and 1 repeat weave pattern. These weave density coefficients are analysed according to the fabric manufacturers, weaving looms and various weave patterns. And also the weave density coefficients of 420 polyester fabrics are analysed with finishing shrinkage according to the fabric manufacturers and various weave patterns such as plain, twill and satin fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.910
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• pp.1282-1291
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• 2004

Kenaf was cultivated and harvested in large quantity in Cheju Island and Chinju, Kyungsangnamdo. It was chemically rotted with 3% NaOH for 60 minutes at 100$^{\circ}C$, neutralized using 1% acetic acid, washed and dried, and obtained 40kg of dry kenaf fiber. Kenaf 15/rayon 85, flax 15/rayon 85, and rayon 100% yam was spun and the physical characteristics were measured. Plain weave and twill weave fabrics were made using each of the above yarns as the filling yam. Cotton 100% yam was used as the warp yam in all fabrics. Kenaf/rayon blend yarns were higher in tenacity and elongation, lower in yam uniformity, higher in the number of nep than the flax/rayon blended yams. Kenaf/rayon blend fabric had higher tenacity and elongation compared to the flax/rayon blend fabric Kenaf/rayon blend fabric was most stiff in both plain weave and twill weave fabrics whereas drape characteristics was dependent upon the fabric structure of the kenaf/rayon blend and flax/rayon blend. There were little differences between the kenaf/rayon blend fabric and the flax/rayon blend fabric in the Kawabata physical measurements and the PHVs. The only drawback of kenaf fiber was it's surface roughness and it is expected that it can be improved by enzyme retting and mechanical bundle separation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.592-599
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to investigate consumer needs, image sensibility and preference of bedding fabric according to size and spacing of dot pattern. 18 kinds of dot pattern fabrics were designed with different diameters(6, 8, 10cm) and distances(4, 7, 10cm) in regular arrangement of diamond figure. The subjects were 162 male and female university students. The data were analyzed by SPSS 24.0. Fabrics were assessed subjectively using a 5-point scale 17 consumer needs and 33 sensory descriptors. The most consumer's needs for bedding fabric was shown to be functionality of bedding including hygiene, touch, warmth, ease of washing and management, air permeability, and hygroscopicity. The other parameters of consumer's needs were shown to be physical property and design parameter. The results of analysis of the dimension of image sensibility for fabrics with different size and spacing of dots are derived from six factors including joyfulness, coziness, uniqueness, charm, femininity, and complexity. As a result of analysis of preference with fabric kinds, there was a significant difference in preference with fabrics. The preferred fabrics were characterized by the pattern and the base fabric being striking three-dimensionally with 1/3 twill and 3/1 twill fabric. Sensory descriptors related to joyful image and unique image were analyzed as evaluation terms that can distinguish the preferences of fabrics. Correlation analysis showed the fabrics are preferred as the difference in luminance and reflectance between the base and pattern of the fabric become larger and the spacing of patterns become closer.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.58-65
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• 2002

This study surveys the physical properties of Solo-spun fabrics related to the characteristics of Solo-spun yarns, which were described in previous reports. For this purposes, 6 kinds of fabrics were woven on the pilot loom. 3 kinds of Solo-spun yarns with the 3 level of twist mutiplier of Nm 1/30 and 3 kinds of conventional ring-spun yarns with the same levels of twist multipliers of the same yarn counts. The fabrics were of 2/2 twill and clear-cut finished. The physical properties were surveyed by means of KES-FB system. Solo-spun fabrics seemed to be stiffer than ring spun fabrics as showing the lower extensibility with higher tensile energy, the higher bending rigidity, and the higher shear rigidity. Solo-spun fabrics showed the lower value in surface friction coefficient and surface roughness. For fabric abrasion tests, Solo-spun fabrics showed the higher pill resistance.