• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.17-34
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to find out problems which occured between clothes and motor ability traits of the hemiplegic aged. The samples were 32 hemiplegic aged men and were compared with 43 healthy aged men. Motor ability of the samples were measured by ROM test, muscle power test and finger function test(grip strength, hand's coordination, lateral pinch, 3pt. pinch). Design of the clothes consisted of 25 variables and the analysis of dressing and undressing motion consist of 10 motions of dressing and undressing dress shirts and 8 motions of trousers. The results were as follows: 1. There were significant relationship between ROM and muscle power and finger function of the hemiplegic aged(P<.001). 2. There were significant differences between the nomal side's finger function of the hemiplegic aged and that of the healthy group(P<.001). 3. The designs of clothes such as tutle neck line, long sleeve, button cuffs, fastening lace, open zipper and belt of trousers gave much difficulty to the hemiplegic when dressing and undressing. 4. The most difficult motion of dressing and undressing was fastening when dressing both dress shirts and trousers. 5. There were partly significant relationship between design of clothes and ROM, muscle power, finger function of hemiplegic aged man. 6. There were partly significant relationship between the degree of difficulty in dressing and undressing motions and ROM, muscle power, finger function of hemiplegic aged man.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.7
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• pp.965-970
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• 1999

This study was conducted to investigate the thermoregulatory characteristics of feet and legs by comparing with the physiological responses according to the covering parts of lower limbs. Five healthy female subjects wore three types of clothing-covered legs and feet(LF-C) with long trousers and socks exposed the legs(L-E) with half trousers and socks and exposed the legs and feet(LF-E) with only half trousers-when the subjects rested at $25^{\circ}C$ and were exposed to 18$^{\circ}C$ for 90 min. Rectal temperatures (Tre) were maintained higher in LF-E than L-E and LF-C at both environments. Decreases of The after exposure to 18$^{\circ}C$ were significantly smaller in LF-E than L-E and LF-C and almost same in L-E and LF-C Heat production in both environments increases of heat production and weight loss after exposure to 18$^{\circ}C$ were not significant among three types of clothing. From these findings it would be suggested that the legs would play the little role of voluntary thermoregulation as vasoconstriction and the role of the legs depend on thermal conditions of feet while the feet play the positive role of voluntary thermoregulation in terms of heat conservation in cool environment.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.133-145
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• 2000

Costume in movies are used as an instrument to signify the personality image and status of characters, and even the main theme of movie itself. The purpose of this paper is to verify the feministic meaning of bloomer costume used in movie, 「OSCAR and LUCINDA」. The bloomer costume was anti-fashion in crinoline period, when women was normally not allowed to put on trousers. To achieve the purpose, I used content analysis to obtain meanings from existing literature and video tapes(including, slides and pictures). Bloomer costume, introduced by Mrs. Amelia Bloomer at 1850s, is an anti­fashion to express women's right to wear trousers that were exclusively used by men since the medieval age. In this sense, bloomer costume itself is a costume expressing values of women's emancipation movement. In 「OSCAR and LUCINDA」, heroine, Lucinda, with bloomer costume is described as a woman who has strong motivation toward work, who actively looks for a man she loves, and who has free­will to involve herself in what she wants, even gambling. This is not surprising in a sense that Lucinda's bloomer costumes itself signifies the meanings of feminism. I found that bloomer costume was well described in the movie from the historical point of view. But some details, including type of trousers, were expressed without strict historical evidence. Overall, it is certain that 「OSCAR and LUCINDA」, with a heroine wearing bloomer costume was a big step towards women's emancipation in movies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.8 s.108
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• pp.60-73
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• 2006

This study analyzes the Baekche official costume system, including the dress, cap and belt systems, by relating documentary records with the results of excavations. The study shows that the system differed depending on the time. A system of dress based on official ranks was instituted during the region of King Goi in the third century. The rap amd belt systems were begun in the first half of sixth century The official costume system, as recorded in the Chinese history $Sus{\u{o}}$, included many subdivisions of cap colors, which followed belt colors. According to $Gudangs{\u{o}}$, dress and cap systems changed in the seventh century. The official costume consisted of a $jacket(j{\u{o}}gori)$, trousers(baji), and coat(po). The coat had wide sleeves and reached below knees. Its collar had straight neckline. Officials of all rank wore silk caps and belts of matching colors. Officials above sixth rank used silver flower decorations on their caps. Officials wore wide-crouch trousers and generally adjusted the hems of the trousers, but this practice stopped in the sixth century. Officials wore shoes or boots depending on occasion. From a historical viewpoint, Baekche is important for having been the first Korean kingdom to establish a government organization. The salient feature of the system of organization established in A.D. 260(the twenty-seventh year of the region of King Goi) was the application of different colors to identify different ranks.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.6
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• pp.24-34
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to create a database of information on fabric factors(i.e., fabric insulation, fabric weight, clothing weight, fabric thickness, air permeability, and water vapor resistance) of clothing used for insulations, to compare them according to clothing types, and to estimate thermal resistance of clothing using these factors. A total of 25 kinds of clothing were selected(9 types for suits, 6 types of jacket, 5 types for shirts, and 5 types for trousers). The results of this study were as follows; Thermal insulation of clothing showed the highest positive correlation(0.85, p>0.01) with thermal insulation of fabric and very high positive correlation with water vapor resistance, fabric thickness, fabric weight, and clothing weight, respectively, 0.77, 0.77, 0.73, 0.71(p>0.01). Fabric weight of jacket was higher than that of shirts and trousers. Air permeability of shirts was the highest of clothing types. Clothing insulation of jacket was higher than that of shirts and trousers and its fabric insulation was also the highest of clothing types. Regression analysis showed that fabric thickness, water vapor resistance, and fabric weight would be useful factors for estimating the thermal resistance of clothing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.67-77
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• 2003

This study investigated the difference of the purchasing realities and the degree of satisfaction of maternity dress according to occupation and age. The purpose of this study was to collect data needed to the maternity dress maker for the better quality of their product and the more comfortable maternity dress wearing of pregnant women. The results of study were as follows. The attitude of purchasing and the degree of satisfaction of maternity dress according to age showed significant differences as follows. First, the dress styles were the significant difference in the kind of formal trousers and casual trousers, one-piece dress, jumper skirt+shirt, vest+trousers. Second, the purchase place was the significant difference in the shop of clothes made, market, maternity dress shop, wearing together. Third, at the purchase time of dress, the satisfactory degree of an appraised standard was the significant difference in the period of wearing, the easiness of exchange and repayment, the wearing numeral degree of other people, price, discount sale, degree of brand recognition, encouragement of other people.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.49-57
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• 1999

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress of Bouyei People of Guizhou Province. The resuits of the study ara as follows. 1. Women's dress and adorment can be categorized into three styles. In the Zhenning, Guanling and Puding regions and northwestern areas of Guizhou Province, women usually wear blouses with overlapping necks, batik pleated skirts and long aprons. They also wear embroidered kerchiefs or turbans. In the suburbs of Guiyand City and Southwestern Guizhou Province, women like to wear blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front, trousers, blue or black and white check cloth kerchiefs. In the Luoping region, women wear blouses with loose sleeves and buttons arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. 2. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front or arranged on the front, trousers and calottes. 3. Most of their dress materials are white and coloured handwoven, tie-dyed or batik cloth. The exquisite technique of batik and tie-dyeing has a long history, which began to become prevalent in the Song Dynasty. 4. Now, people use all kinds of techniques to make their dress and adornment, including batik, tie-dyeing, cross-stitch, brocade and embroidery, which reflect their peculiar aesthetic temperament.

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.1-20
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• 2021

The Taq-i Bustan reliefs are representative works from the Sassanian dynasty of the 4th to 7th centuries. This study analyzes the costumes depicted in the Taq-i Bustan reliefs to gain understanding of the phenomena of cultural exchange between the East and West by observing the foreign cultural elements appearing in the Sassanian costumes of that time. Literature study and artifacts analysis were conducted in parallel. External elements appearing in Taq-i Bustan's costume were Greek-Roman and Central Asian. The tunics and trousers of the gods and the trousers of kings (Ardashir II, Shapur II and Shapur III) were made of thin fabric and showed many wrinkles, a characteristic of Greek and Roman clothing. On the spandrel above the arch of the great grotto of Khusrau II are depicted the goddesses of Victory, in a Greco-Bactrian style. Among the costume elements of Taq-i Bustan, there were also Central Asian elements observed. One Central Asian costume element was the round clasp ornament for tying the trousers. The side slits and hem of the tunic were presented in the style of the Sogd clothing of Central Asia in the 6th and 7th centuries, while the pearl rounded pattern was activated in Sogd, Kucha and Kizyl in the 7th and 8th centuries. These reliefs are considered important evidence of eastern influences in Sassanian culture.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.160-168
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• 2010

This paper examines a particular period in Japanese history. when clothing was systemically changed through government policy. It demonstrates the complex relationships between an Eastern nation and a Western clothing system. It also explores the complexity of roles which clothing plays in society, clothing which brands a nation as masculine, but which resists the discourses of modernity, which were found on native clothing. It demonstrates that native, Japanese clothing has always been developing to meet the needs of its wearers, according to technology, sumptuary laws and prevailing tastes, and therefore that fashion is not any more a product of Europe than it is of the East. It reveals the Japanese fashion system as a complex and multi-dimensional one, about surface design rather than change in shape, bur also being about inner and deep surfaces as well as outer surfaces for public presentation, and thus being a carrier for private as well as public discourses. This examination also demonstrates that whilst fashion may be intimately bound up with the forces of society and also politics, it is also a force which resists outside control, and develops because of the signification with which the embodied wearers endow it.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.13-20
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• 1998

Scandinavia consists of Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Finland, Iceland and Lapland, all linked by historical and geographical ties. In this respect, the objective of this research was to clarify the folk costume of the Scandinavia. Scandinavia many skilled handicrafts are practised, such as leatherwork, silverwork and embroidery. The most popular colours are yellow, blues, reds, greens and white. For women the costume consist of a blouse with a bodice, skirt and apron, over which is worn a jacket or shawl, accompanied by a headdress. Their accessories may be jewellery, belts, kerchiefs and separate pockets. For the men, the costume is a shirt, trousers or breeches, worn with a waistcoat and jacket, neck scarf, and topped with a hat or cap. And the Lapps, both men and women, wear woollen shirts beneath their blue-skirted tunics, and blue trousers. It is one of the most ancient of the costumes worn in western Europe, due to its total suitability to their way of life.