• 복식
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• 제63권5호
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• pp.102-114
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• 2013

This study performed the evaluation of skin temperature, heart rate, humidity and temperature inside clothing, and subjective sensation to estimate the physiological responses of the human body and its feeling of comfort for developing value-added dox fabric. Experiments were performed on five healthy adult women whose average age was 21, at climate chamber in which temperature, relative humidity and air current were set up below $28{\pm}5^{\circ}C$, $50{\pm}10%$, 0.2m/s, respectively. Two kinds of clothes were used for the experiments: 100% cotton and dox clothes. The clothes were identical in size and form, and the attire consisted of long-sleeved shirts, long trousers, and socks. The experiment was performed for 30 minutes using ergometer. The results are as follows. 1) It showed low skin temperature of forearm, breast, back, forehead and lower leg in exercise, but high skin temperature of them in recovery. However skin temperature of thigh and foot increased from rest to recovery. 2) It showed significant difference (p<0.001, p<0.01) in average skin temperature between cotton and dox clothes. Cotton clothes had a higher average skin temperature compared to dox. Not only was there a significant difference in temperature inside clothing (p<0.001), this was also the case with humidity inside the clothing (p<0.001).

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.39-49
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• 1982

This treatise deals with teen-agers' tendencies in selecting clothes, upon the recent liberalization measures of dress restriction. in regard to girl students' uniforms inmiddle and high schools, effective 1983. Results of my poll of 430 inquirees on the subject is outlined as follows; The surveyees have a preference for wearing box-style upper garments with a round-neck line and ribbon/tie collar. They also prefer to wear shirt cuffs mainly in set-in sleeve style. A straight skirt silhouetting the body line is anticipated to be longer in length than the knee line by 2 or 3 cm's. A dressy or sporty look would be most welcome, too. The ensemble of blue jeans and T-shirt blouse would be usual wear during school attendance. The reason why they like to choose trousers is considered to stem from the unisex look in fashion rather economical and practical purposes. Clothes material tends to be natural fabrics, single-colored and non-patterned. Color needs to be in a subdued mood, tuned with the same color and of neutral tint. In styling, emphasis is to be placed on femininity. In particular, the middle school girls wish to intensify 'Har-mony' in style while the high school misses are concerned with 'Individuality.'

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권6호
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• pp.47-63
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• 2022

This study aimed to examine the changes in women's fashion, focusing on the repercussions that bicycles had on women's life and fashion, centered on France in the 19th century, and then it examines the significance of the period to women's cycling clothing and its contribution to fashion. The research is based on literature and visual materials extracted from 19th century French newspapers, magazines, and posters. As a result of this study, the appearance of bicycles in the 19th century contributed to fashion as follows. First, the need for clothing suitable for outdoor activities promoted development of new designs with practical and functional features. Second, the clothing worn by female cyclists contributed to the introduction and propagation of new clothing, and pioneering wearing trousers. Third, the boom of bicycles in the 1890s led to the expansion of ready-to-wear items in department. The significance of the period to women's cycling clothing in the 19th century France is as follows. First, the era challenged customs and attitudes towards women's bicycle clothing and led to modernization. Second, a new and reasonable clothing design was presented that required a compromise to be accepted by the public. Third, although the clothing reform movement was not active in France, bloomer-style bicycle clothing was popular among fashionable women in Paris, revealing only its visual status as the capital of fashion in the 19th century.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권6호
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• pp.814-827
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• 2022

This study examines the social and artistic aspects of the Netherlands in the 16th century, focusing on the paintings of Pieter Bruegel the Elder (1525-1569), a repre- sentative Dutch painter at that time. Also analyzed were the types and characteristics of each item of the male populace's and nobles' costumes at that point in the Renaissance. The results are as follows: most of the populace's chemises do not have frills on the neckline and sleeves; the doublet has a loose body and sleeves overall; and the sleeves and armholes are fixed with sewing rather than being detachable, making the epaulet invisible. The neckline of the doublet usually does not have a collar, but it sometimes has a hood. In the case of trousers, most males are shown wearing waist-high stockings, and a piece of cord is visible. It seems that the populace's coats were mainly Spanish-style capes. The 16th-century Dutch populace's costumes are imitative-reflecting a desire to emulate the codpieces and hairstyles of the aristocrats-while providing individuality through hats and belts. In terms of practicality, it appears that a knife and pouch were used in various living environments. This trend can be seen as a reflection of populace's perception of the costume at the time.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제44권4호
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• pp.776-787
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• 2020

This study investigated physiological and subjective responses to different types of firefighter station uniforms made with various designs and materials. Six healthy males participated in this study that consisted of 20 min of rest, 30 min of treadmill exercise, and 30 min of recovery in a hot and humid environment (34℃ and 65%RH). The experimental clothing conditions were as follows. 1) a fitted T-shirt and trouser made of 100% polyester (FC-Uniform), and 2) flame retardant T-shirts made of acrylic and cotton as well as trousers with aramid and polyester, designed for overfitting (Control). There were no significant differences in the body temperature, and sweat rate between the two conditions; however, the heart rate with the FC-Uniform was significantly lower than Control (p=.025). The clothing microclimate temperature at the chest of the FC-Uniform was significantly lower than the Control (p=.037), and a difference of 1℃ was maintained until the recovery was complete. There were no significant differences in the subjective responses; however, participants experienced a humidity sensation faster with FC-Uniform in the recovery phase. The results indicate that changes in the design and material of firefighter station uniforms may have a positive influence on reducing the thermal stress of firefighters.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.204-220
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• 2007

The background of Korean Ethnical Costume was originated from those northern mounted nomadic groups, which was Scythe style Costume Culture. Through the antique records and paintings of tombs bequests hereby describe the forms of Scythian Cotume (1) Headgear : There was Conical Cap(or Pointed Cap), Feathered Cap, and Crown. (2) Clothes : Both Men and Women wore Jacket as upper garment with leftsided collars, narrow sleeves to the length of the hip line. As lower garment, they wore the tight Trousers and Kungo(:窮袴)that was attached with gusset. (3) Belts and Boots : On the upper garment bound the leather Belts that was hanged a hook that was shaped of animal form at the end. Scythian Buckles was divided into six groups, animal-shaped, animal's head shaped, animal fight-shaped, rectangle-shaped, rectangle openwork-shaped, genre scene shaped Buckle. To the Boots, they wore leather boots. (4) Ornaments : Ornaments divided into Dress Trimming(:Gold plaques), Earrings, Necklaces(;Torques), Bracelets, Rings. Scythian Gold Plaques were divided into several types according to the shape, animal style(curved beast shape, profile shape, head reversed over its back shape), round shape, quadrilateral form, star shape, flower shape, crescent shape, bundle shape, human appearance. Earrings consisted of a plain ring and pendant ring was a middle ornament hung from it to a pendants which hung was made of heart shaped leaves of the tree, beads-linked. Scythian Torques were divided into several types according to the shape, Torque with Terminal style, Spiral style, Layers style, Crescent-shaped pectoral style, Crown style. Scythian Bracelet were divided into 4 styles according to the shape, Bracelets with ends shaped like beasts style, Spiral style, Layers style, Crown with openwork style. Rings were rhomb-shaped and animal shaped styleRings (5) Animal motifs used in Scythian ornaments appears that in some cases the work was intended to be purely ornamental, while many times the motifs had symbolic meaning (such as the successful dominance of the aggressor over the victim portrayed in the attack scenes). Magical use of symbols may have been inten-ded to guarantee the power of the aggressor.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.460-476
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was, accordingly, to examine male college student's general body consciousness and their actual condition of wearing clothing, as it's assumed that clothing, which everyone must always wear, might be effective in making up for the physical defect. The findings of this study were as follows : 1. Male College Students'Body Consciousness : They expressed some dissatisfaction with their own body, and they were most discontented with their height, among their bodies. They thought of the western-style shape as an ideal one, as what's considered by them to be ideal was thinner a little than them, being taller with wider shoulder, longer legs, smaller and white face. 2. Male College Students'Characteristics of Clothing Purchasing Behavior : In purchasing clothing, male college students were slightly sensitive about the physical part with which they wasn't satisfied. The clothing pattern preferred by them was an abstract one, and their favorite color was white or black. The greatest number of them put most emphasis on design in buying clothing, and they purchased clothing mainly at special fashion shop. On the whole, they showed an affirmative response toward wearing Korean costume, and they also had a positive opinion about the purchase of reformed Korean dress for everyday life. 3. Male College Students'Characteristics of Wearing Clothing : They appeared not to consider making up for physical weakness. Male college students favored aloha shirt and trousers when they went out. Male college students purchase clothing in consideration of individual, manly, classical, tender, or comfortable factors. 4. Relationship of Body Consciousness to Wearing Behavior : The degree to which they considered covering up physical weakness in wearing clothing was examined, by dividing them into two groups : one was a group that thought their own shape normal, and the other was a group that didn't think of their own shape as normal. As a result, both groups appeared not to consider covering up physical weakness.

• 복식
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• 제52권6호
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• pp.25-39
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to look into dressing practices at the Woinarodo region in terms of ordinary and ritual clothes. Men wore Bqji(trousers) and Jeokori(jackets) as their plain clothes and sometimes Jangsam mid Durumaki(topcoat). During the period of Japanese colony, men wore Western-style clothes. For women it was basic to wear Chima(skirts) and Jeokori. And they preferred Momppe rather when in Japanese rule. In arrangements for their head, men put on gut, and had their hair cut during Japanese nile. Women laid a bundle of their braided hairs on the head or braided their hair, while married women did their hair up in a chignon during the ruling period People of the region put on straw and leather shoes, and then rubber ones since the late 1930s. Hand weaving was a major means of living for women at the region. Ramie, hemp and cotton were mainly weaved by hand. Starching was applied mainly to ramie and cotton. Glues for starching were made of raw rices, cooked rices, wheat flour or gloiopeltis tenax. For ritual clothes, especially in wedding, bridegrooms arranged themselves with Samokwandae and then Put on Baji, Jeokori, Durumaki and Danryung. But they Put on Western-style dresses as the liners of Danryung, and wear Nambawi Rather than the Samo after korean independence from Japanese rule. Bridges wore Chima, Jeokori and Wonsam and Chokdoori and covered their face with Hansam Wonsam did not be worn any longer after Korean independence from the rule. Shrouds for funeral ceremony were manufactured with silks, cotton and hemp, when the chief mourner wore hempen hoods and funeral robes, while women, Chima, made of hemp. and any type of Jeokori.

• 복식
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• 제63권3호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

Xiognu people were the first of the Central-Asian nomads to establish a nation in 209 B.C. They always moved around looking for places to breed their animals and fertile grounds, so they wore clothes made of fur and leather and covered their tents with felt from the livestock. This research studies on the literatures, costumes and the achievement of archaeological excavation. Furthermore, to investigate on costumes excavated of Xiongnu, we visited the Mongolian National Museum and the Hermitage Museum. A corn-hat made of felt, a felt hat with ear flaps and a golden crown with a bird on the top were unearthed from a tomb of Xiongnu in Inner mongolia. Women usually wore pigtails, and men wore pigtails or ponytails but they cut their hair short when holding a funeral. Many pigtails discovered in Noyon uul tombs can be considered as their funeral customs. The Xiongnu wore a round or v-neck caftan attached straight sleeves reaching knees in the left folded style, and because they always rode horses, having the length of the caftan not go past their buttocks would have made it more convenient for them. During the period of Western Han, Ho refered to Xiongnu and it became a common name for northern races. They used leather belts and an animal-designed buckle was found. Women commonly rouged their cheeks for a vivid and cute look, and many ornaments were excavated including bracelets, rings and decorations made of gold, silver, copper and jade, among which there were hair ornaments used to identify one's class. A horse pattern with wings and a horn of Golmod T20 was substitution for the Schythian use of deer. Patterns or shape of unearthed articles present in the Xiongnu culture in Noyon uul had a close relationship with Altaic, Greek and Persian cultures. The Xiongnu clothing was made of animals' skin and fur, woolen textiles and felt. It was folded to the left for upper garments, and the pants were adjusted using a belt and shoes were made of leather, which was very suitable for protection against the cold and horse riding. Mobility played a significant role in their clothing.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제2권4호
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• pp.331-338
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• 2000

To study on the actual condition of care label attached to clothing and consumers' perception, 250 summer clothes sold at department store-blouse, trousers, one-piece dress, knit cardigan and skirt-were investigated during July 2000. In addition, a questionnaire was administered to 192 women in Taegu during August. The fiber contents of surveyed clothes were polyester 100% & polyester blend (26%), rayon 100% & rayon blend (18%), cotton 100% & cotton blend (17%), wool 100% & wool blend (14%) and others. All clothes surveyed were attached care label and the signals showed on care labels were 4~6 kinds about cleaning, squeezing, drying, bleaching, and ironing methods. 92% of clothes had to be dry-cleaned and only 8% could be wet-cleaned. Considered the surveyed clothes were for summer which needs frequent washing and the clothing items, the number of clothes had to dry-cleaned were too many. The bleaching instructions were no chlorine bleach (74%), no bleaching (21%) and others. The ironing instructions were cool ironing ($80{\sim}120^{\circ}C$) with cover (24%) and warm ironing ($140{\sim}160^{\circ}C$) with cover (69%) primarily. The drying instructions was dry on a hanger in the shade (54%) and 38% had no signal or incorrect signal. The properties of summer clothes considered important by consumers were wrinkled hardly, hand-washable, machine-washable, needed no iron and etc. Actually most of summer clothes were hand or machine-washed. Also, the majority of respondents felt inconvenient to have to dry-clean summer clothes. More than 80% respondents looked over care label and fiber content label before buying clothes. However most of respondents did not followed that instructions exactly and thought care label instructions were not correct. Considered this results, the suppliers have to make efforts to attach correct and appropriate care label which furnish the correct information to consumers.