• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.101-115
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to contribute to the development of the women's fashion field with the goal of creating creative and experimental fashion styles through the categorization of cases of women's fashion design expressed with Maximalism, a type of expression used in modern fashion, as well as analyzing and examining the formativeness of this style. Qualitative research was conducted through a literature review and design case analysis. The scope of this research was from 2011 S/S to 2016 F/W, and the regional scope included the women's collections from Paris, Milano, London and New York. The results acquired are as follows. Initially, exaggeration was expressed through excessively exaggerating the overall silhouette of clothing or exaggeratedly distorting certain parts of the overall silhouette. Secondly, decoration was expressed through the use of the same colors and materials and the addition of excessive details and trimmings to express an exaggerated style of clothing as well as to express a luxurious and handcrafted style of clothing. Thirdly, fusion was expressed through integrating multiple items from different cultures, deconstruction, which destroys the concept of gender and use of clothing, and fashion style that transcends time and space. Fourthly, non-structurality was expressed through differentiating multiple weight feelings applied to the left/right sides of clothing or expressing a structural designs that is asymmetrical to the upper/lower/left/right directions to create a silhouette that displays a creative avant-garde style. As examined above, it was found that the maximalism expressed in fashion after 2011 created new images and expressed maximized emotional orientations through the exaggerated use of multiple silhouettes and decorations or through the integration of colors, patterns, ages and images. Through this process, maximalism is expected to not only provide an infinite possibility to the modern fashion that pursues diversification and multiplication, but also serve as an example that represents diversified post-modernism fashion trends in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.9_10 s.157
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• pp.1464-1475
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• 2006

This thesis is purported to contemplate glamour look reflected in fashion history, thereby to establish the styles of glamour expressed in fashion trends and to provide the categorical basis of fashion design. For such purposes, this thesis first provides the historical survey on the glamour look in fashion, and to conduct a case study by conducting survey of fashion photographs captured in an internet site called Firsview(www.firstview.com) during most recent ten-year period covering $pr\^{e}t-\`{a}-porter$ design products presented by ten leading Italian designers. Based upon the historical survey, there are four representative styles in glamour looks, including (1) luxury glamour, (2) hyperfeminine glamour, (3) kitsch glamour, and (4) romantic glamour. Luxury glamour looks were most often utilized by fashion designs of Valentino and Armani, which can be characterized by frequent usage of glittering details intended to emphasize the surface decoration. Hyperfeminine glamour looks were characterized by the frequent usage of black color in an effort to create fetish atmosphere or sensuality, which can be discovered from the fashion designs of Versace, Cavalli and Ferre. Kitsch glamour looks were characterized by the appropriation of details of vulgar subcultural features mixed with strong color combinations and ethnic trimmings. Versace, Cavalli and Dolce & Gabbana were the main designers of kitsch glamour looks. Finally, romantic glamour looks, which were mainly expressed by Valentine, Dolce & Gabbana and Versace, were characterized by nostalgia and luxury with light colors and materials such as lace and transparent fabrics.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.51-61
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine the relation between the trend of art and fashion which predominate a certain time. In order to achieve this goal, this study intends to analyze how plasticity found in Mondrian's pictures are applied to modern fashion with its focus on formative elements. Mondrian was ahead of abstractionism, a major trend of contemporary art, and defined the theory of neo-plasticism. The theory of neo-plasticism defined by Mondrian is characterized by the limited expression of lines and shapes by using only vertical and horizontal straight lines, and right angles and four-sided figures weaved by the lines, and the use of achromatic color(black, white, and gray) in three primary colors(red, blue, and yellow). Based on his theory, he fully displayed the world of geometric abstraction. Mondrian's formative elements which have been applied in modern fashion can be divided into shape and color, For the element of shape, first, horizontal and vertical lines have been applied to patterns, trimmings, detail, and plane of textiles through simplification of design, representing proportion, balance, and stress in a silhouette, Second, plane and diamond shapes made of horizontal and vertical lines have been applied to textiles or patterns with uniqueness. For the element of color, first, three primary colors and achromatic colors are used to seek the aesthetics of balance and harmony that are produced in the strain of conflict through brightness, chroma, and complementary colors, Second, primary colors of high chroma and brightness which are much stronger than pictures are used to express a modern sense. Formative elements of neo-plasticism, which have been applied to modern fashion suggested by this study, are connected with the trend of art contemporary designers have borrowed, Accordingly, this study will become a very helpful material which provides designers with original ideas in developing materials and patterns which connect design with art.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.42-55
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• 2013

As performing arts including operas are getting popular these days, the importance of stage costumes is strengthened. Stage costume is one of the artistic requisites for opera performance, it plays an important role in describing the play's situation, the director's style and the person's character. Nevertheless the study regarding the opera's costumes is not active, especially the comparative study on the same opera's costumes performed by different opera companies have hardly been made. Therefore this study compared 5 Manon Lescaut opera performances: the Metropolitan Opera(1980), the Flemish Opera(1991), the Metropolitan Opera(2008), the Seoul Metropolitan Opera(2010) and the Vienna State Opera(2010) and made clear the difference between the four. From this study, we can get the following conclusions. First, the Metropolitan Opera's costumes in 1980 act and in 2008 act ascertained Rococo dressing. Because the costume designer for both acts was the same person, the general costume styles of the two acts are similar. Second, as for the Flemish Opera and Seoul Metropolitan Opera, there was a significant drop in fancy details and trimmings in the costumes. But the costumes made strong impressions dues to its color and luminosity contrast. Third, Vienna State Opera costumes had the boldest designs and it reflected modern designs as well. This study is meaningful in that it is based on the comparison study on the same opera stage costumes designed by different directors. Afterward this study is expected to contribute toward study on opera stage costumes and stage costume's development.

• Asian-Australasian Journal of Animal Sciences
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.564-568
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• 2004

Restructuring had made it possible to utilize lower value cuts and meat trimmings from spent animals by providing convenience in product preparation besides enhancing tenderness, palatability and value. Milk co-precipitates (MCP) have been reported to improve the nutritional and functional properties of certain meat products. This study was undertaken to evaluate the influence of incorporation of milk co-precipitates at four different levels viz. 0, 10, 15 and 20% on the quality of restructured buffalo meat blocks. Low-calcium milk co-precipitates were prepared from skim milk by heat and salt coagulation of milk proteins. Meat chunks were mixed with the curing ingredients and chilled water in a Hobart mixer for 5 minutes, followed by addition of milk co-precipitates along with condiments and spice mix and again mixed for 5 minutes. Treated chunks were stuffed in aluminium moulds and cooked in steam without pressure for 1.5 h. After cooking, treated meat blocks were compared for different physico-chemical and sensory attributes. Meat blocks incorporated with 10% MCP were significantly better (p<0.05) than those incorporated with 0, 15 and 20% MCP in cooking yield, percent shrinkage and moisture retention. Sensory scores were also marginally higher for meat blocks incorporated with 10% MCP than product incorporated with 15 and 20% MCP, besides being significantly higher than control. On the basis of above results 10% MCP was considered optimum for the preparation of restructured buffalo meat blocks. Instrumental texture profile analysis revealed that meat blocks incorporated with 10% MCP were significantly better (p<0.05) in hardness/ firmness than control although, no significant (p>0.05) differences were observed in cohesiveness, springiness, gumminess and chewiness of both type of samples.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.100-117
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• 2010

This thesis has three main purposes: first, will show kinds, patterns, types, expression techniques of modern korean women's trimmings by every ten years. Second, it is to trace the effect of each decade on women's Hanbok trimming designs. Third, it will point out factors. that caused the change of modern Korean women's Hanbok trimming design patterns. Henceforth, there comes the result of the research and analysis. Trimming design patterns of modern women's Hanbok can be divided into three categories temporally: The first period of from 1910s to the first half of 1950s saw that design patterns did not changed much from traditional ones. It is because there were many catastrophes such as the invasion of Japanese Empire and Korean War. The compound design had expressed people's wish to earn many sons and babies at the end of Joseon Dynasty. But it turned to wishing luck for individuals affected by individualism and liberalism imported from the west. Realistic designs are the most frequently used and the least lines made up patterns. The second period of from the latter half of 1950s to 1970s saw that women wore their Jeogories and Chimas as suits. Screen printing technique enabled for various design patterns to come out. And the development of textile industry introduced various expression techniques such as making lace, meshing, flocking, burn-out etc cetera. The third period of 1980s saw that Hanbok became a kind of luxurious clothe as people's living standard rose. Hanbok again came into the spotlight, Hanbok designers came forward and their individualities are respected. The characteristic expression technique of grey-dying and geometric design patterns are more frequently used for the simple and modern beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.1-13
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to make a contribution to men's fashion by analyzing changes related to excessive and decorative expressions of latest men's wear design in the viewpoint of Maximalism, and using the results to develop a new fashion style. Results of the study are as follows: The characteristics of Maximalism in men's wear collection in the last 5 years can be classified as 'Fusion Maximalism, 'Decorative Maximalism', 'Exaggerative Maximalism', 'Humorous Maximalism', and 'Duplicative Maximalism'. The characteristics of each type of Maximalism can be summarized as follows: First, Fusion Maximalism creates new men's fashion style by fusing designs from different cultures in clothing items as well as dismantling gender boundaries in clothing design, and by having designs which transcends time and space. Second, Decorative Maximalism expresses ambiguous decadence by implementing feminine decoration that applies handicraft technique, as well as exaggeratedly using details and trimmings of contrasting images, and applying women's clothing items. Third, Exaggerative Maximalism represents extreme avant-garde that changes the idea of fashion design by changing the styling or the exaggerated silhouette. Fourth, Humorous Maximalism expresses not only the creation of new men's fashion look, but also expresses humanism with exaggerative enjoyment and pleasant ideas. Fifth, Duplicative Maximalism expresses creative design by implementing vivid images of different period and culture, and reproducing successful images of the past into modern fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.148-166
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to establish the basic materials necessary for red carpet fashion design by examining the formativeness and fashion images of red carpet dresses at film festivals in the Great China Region. For the purpose of this study, research methods include a literature review on the origin and significance of red carpet dresses, the characteristics of film festivals in the Great China Region and their red carpet dresses as well as an analysis of the formative features and images of 615 red carpet dresses collected from each film festival official homepage, diverse media articles, and online search sites (www.google.com, www.hao123.com). The research finding can be summarized as follows: First, the formative features of red carpet dress designs were analyzed herein. It was found that the most frequently appearing type of silhouette was straight followed by hourglass and bulk in order. More specifically these included fit and flare, mermaid, trapeze, and slim in order. For the neckline styles, strapless was the most frequently seen followed by camisole, jewel, and one shoulder. Solid colors were more often seen than multiple colors. Bk, W, R, and YR were the most frequent main solid colors in order. Solid materials were frequent as well, such as soft and shiny materials. Non-patterned and unadorned styles were most frequent as for pattern types and details and trimmings. Second, the fashion images of red carpet dresses in the Great China Region were analyzed. The most frequent images were elegant, feminine, ethnic, modern, classic, avant-garde, others, mannish and sportive, in order.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.552-563
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• 2019

Jackets are regarded as an element used to judge ideas and fashion trends for the age in which they are presented. This article analyzed recent tailored jacket fashion trends by categorizing jackets according to design elements. For this, design elements of tailored jackets were categorized into silhouette, collar and lapel, shoulder and sleeve, and decorative elements. We collected and categorized the changes of 491 jackets that have appeared in collections over the past 5 years. The results showed shoulder and sleeve changes (36.25%), silhouette changes (33.4%), lapel and color changes (12.6%), decorative element changes (11.2%), and no changes (6.5%). Jacket forms with changed shoulders and sleeves appeared as styles that have laterally or vertically expanded the shoulder and arm hole with the production of various sleeve forms. Silhouette changes were expressed through forms such as exaggerated silhouettes of oversized-clothing, silhouettes made through cutting or layering, and the polarization of length. Forms with a changed collar and lapel appeared with polarization trends in which lapels dramatically grow larger or narrower, diverse frontal adjustments using no-collar designs, and the utilization of shawl-collars; in addition, forms with changed decorative elements were expressed with layered decorations such as pockets or collar add-ons, adjustment changes using buttons, ribbons or zippers, and various trimmings. The analysis results show that modern female tailored jackets are being made to realize an exaggerated physical beauty of shoulder, sleeve and torsos to maximize decorative effects through new attempts in design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.13-26
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• 2019

In this study, Western-style first birthday clothing for girls from online shopping malls was explored. Specifically, clothing types, forms, colors, textiles, prints/patterns, and trimmings were examined. Using the keyword dol bok (meaning "first birthday clothing") and the search engines Naver and Daum, online shopping malls that sell or rent Western-style first birthday clothing for girls were found. From 15 online shopping malls, 317 dresses, 76 outers, and 69 bonnets were analyzed. The one-piece dress was the main item of Western-style first birthday clothing for girls. Most first birthday dresses were white or ivory in terms of color; other common features were the bell silhouette, a high waistline, a midi- or knee-length skirt with multiple layers, and bow trimming. The upper bodices of dresses featured round necklines without collars and sleeves, and the main textiles used for dresses were satin, lace, organza, and tulle. Two main types of outers were jackets and capes. Most outers were white or ivory and waist-length or shorter, with elbow-length or longer sleeves. Outers were typically made of fur, satin, and lace. Most bonnets were also white or ivory in color, made of satin and lace, and decorated with ribbon ties and frills/ruffles. Because a precedent study indicates that a monochromatic color scheme was the least favorite and that consumers want a proper fit and length-adjustable design, conclusions of this study point to the need for color diversification; color combinations for two-piece dresses, outers, and accessories; and lacing or shoulder snaps instead of zippers.