• 복식
• /
• 제60권5호
• /
• pp.71-87
• /
• 2010

The purpose of the study is analyzing Japanese modern costume, through examining legislation process and the relics of Chickimkwan's and Juimkwan's court costume. The results of the study are as follows. First, the proposer of civil court costume, established in 1872, was Iwakura Mission dispatched to America and Europe. The Mission realized the importance of preparing western-style costume in civilization from experience wearing traditional clothing at ceremony of presenting credentials in America. Afterwards, the Mission proposed that the government accept western-style as civil court costume and became first wearers in Japanese in England. Second, the difference, between ordinance and actual clothes worn by Iwakura Mission, occurred in process of legislation in 1872. That might be considered as trial and error in introducing different culture. The coexistence of England and French styles was unified into French style by the revision of civil court costume in 1886. Third, the pattern of paulownia embroidered on civil court costume was utilized as symbol of Japan. While the costume of Chickimkwan was embroidered by the pattern of 7 and 5 leaves paulownia, that of Juimkwan was 5 and 3 leaves expressing their grades. Fourth, relics research showed how formed manufacturer information and enacted design were in embroidery. The relics seemed to be manufactured in Japan, because emblem of Mitsukosi tailor was embroidered on inner part of the back of collar of Chickimkwan in Nara Women's University, Japan and that of Yamasaki on left inner pocket of Juimkwan in the Independence Hall, Korea. The embroider techniques comprised forming by filler particles according to the design, filling up coiled gold threads and expressing stem with gold threads and spangles. As preemptive study, establishment process of Japanese civil court costume in this study will help understand form characteristics appeared in civil court costume act of Korean Empire.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제21권4호
• /
• pp.81-96
• /
• 2019

The study intends to seek the creative ideas that can satisfy the needs of individual consumers by rediscovering the modern meaning and the artistic value of geometric ornaments engraved on the backside of Danyugyung, which is a traditional Korean pattern. In terms of the study method, the symbolic meaning and formative characteristics of Danyugyung were determined, and the form of its pattern and the geometric characteristics were analyzed. Based on this, Photoshop and illustrations were used to apply the shapes of Danyugyung and internal patterns to the textile designs, and the results are as follows. Firstly, it was found that Danyugyung was associated with the bronze mirror, which was used from the Bronze Age to the Early Iron Age, and was the product of artistic activities and an object and acted as a shamanistic and authoritative symbol of the ruling parties, which were responsible for the acts related to the spiritual world. Secondly, it was discovered that forms of Danyugyung were classified into Jomungyung and Semungyung in accordance with Forms of Danyugyung (造飾), and the formative features of the geometric ornaments that were engraved in great detail on the backside could be found in the images which change according to the form of the inner patterns. Thirdly, with regard to the development of the textile designs utilizing the shape and inner patterns of Danyugyung based on the formative features, it was could discover that the simple shape of Danyugyung presented a value which can be applied as a unique design factor delivering a visual rhythm by attempting to create various harmonies overlapping lines engraved on the inner patterns and the shapes of Danyugyung. Based on the above-mentioned outcomes, the possibility was confirmed that Danyugyung can be used as a novel motif and as a standard unit of patterns for textile design. With future studies, I would like to utilize the unique and diverse images as pattern motif for textile design.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제18권4호
• /
• pp.741-754
• /
• 2010

The current study aims to link Korean tradition to modern culture; to re-produce patterns of lotus depicted in Minwha, The study also aims to discover the beauty of Korean tradition and to modernize it. The current study is based upon document searches(including research papers) and the Internet searches. Through these searches, it investigates the concept of Minhwa, the origin of lotus depiction and its symbolic meanings, the traits of such pattern. Based upon this investigation, the study attempts to modernize the patterns of lotus and apply the modernized patterns to designing shirts. The process which employs the lotus patterns illustrated in Minhwa to shirt design includes four sub-processes: selecting, allocating, coloring, and selecting production techniques. The sub- process of selecting patterns is two folded: the first stage covers carbon-copying the distinctive features of lotus, lotus leaf, lotus bud, lotus pip, and lotus stem; the second stage is making these features suitable to shirt sizes. For the process of coloring those shirts, Piccaso's work(Pablo Picasso, 1881~1973) has been selected and the colors in his work have been adopted to dye the rest of the shirts as well as the lotus features. The process of selecting production techniques includes ornament tail in order to modernize the patterns allocated in the shirts. Once these processes are completed, the shirts are made on a scale of real-life size. These processes of creating shirt design by modernizing traditional patterns will hopefully contribute to researchers expanding the domain of shirt design.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제31권4호
• /
• pp.504-518
• /
• 2023

The objective of this study was to explore the symbolism associated with phoenix patterns in China and the temporal aesthetic characteristics of these patterns found in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes. The study involved collecting examples of clothing designs featuring phoenix patterns from China Fashion Week and the Vogue website, spanning from spring and summer of 2016 to fall and winter of 2022. After collecting and organizing these examples, representative cases were selected for analysis. The objective was to identify effective techniques for incorporating phoenix patterns within the context of Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes and provided insights for future clothing design and textile pattern design research. Phoenix patterns boasted a lengthy history and were laden with symbolic meaning. Early renditions of phoenix patterns found at Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang were relatively simplistic in design, mainly employing elements like rhythm, coordination, balance and symmetry to convey a sense of nature and gravity. Over time, these patterns evolved under the influence of the prevailing cultural backdrop, employing repeated emphasis to portray notions of abundance and tenacity. Furthermore, regarding the use of phoenix patterns in clothing, there were four prevalent expression techniques: embroidery, beading, printing, and knitting. Traditional techniques like embroidery and beadwork often prioritized aesthetic features like coordination, emphasis, and symmetry, thereby showcasing the opulent characteristics of phoenix patterns. On the other hand, printing and knitting techniques used a single phoenix pattern or a modified version to simplify designs by emphasizing or repeating aesthetic characteristics while adhering to a modern artistic approach.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제19권1호
• /
• pp.62-76
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study was to analyze and compare the shapes, colors, patterns, and hairstyles of Qipao worn by heroines that were reconstructed over times, in a Chinese TV Drama set in the 1930s and televised in 1980 and remade in 2007. We investigated how the Qipao was reinterpreted. The results were as follows. First, in televised in 1980, Qipao borrowed the characteristics of Jing Pai Qipao, which became popular in Beijing. Jing Pai Qipao was characterized by a roomy and loose silhouette that does not expose a body line, Chinese traditional 5 colors, simple plain patterns and Chinese traditional flower patterns. For hairstyle, twist and permanent wave styles that were popular in the Republican Period were very common. On the other hand, in televised in 2007, Qipao was a Hai Pai style that was very popular in Shanghai in the 1930s. Hai Pai Qipao was characterized by a tight silhouette fitted to the body, various colors such as purple and beige other than the 5 colors, Western flower patterns and modern geometric patterns. Hairstyle was changed from bang hair to a permanent wave. Second, while had a modern reinterpretation of Jing Pai Qipao that was very popular in Beijing, rather than Hai Pai Qipao that became popular in Shanghai in the 1930s, used Hai Pai Qipao that was popular in Shanghai in the 1930s. In particular, demonstrated how the mass media should reinterpret past clothing by thoroughly studying and reflecting Shanghai Qipao in the 1930s and adding viewers' aesthetic taste of 2007 without damaging an original. Moreover, it confirmed that clothing can function as language and symbol within the mass media by connecting the color and pattern of Qipao with characters' traits and the plot. It suggests that was more advanced than filmed in the 1980s. The findings of this study might provide useful data to costume designers who reinterpret costumes from a new angle.

• 복식
• /
• 제55권2호
• /
• pp.18-32
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study is to find out the origin of perpetuity in the fashion design of Soma Delaunay, who was recognized as a unique designer in the 20th century. Her characteristics of fashion design appeared as dynamism in the incline of op-art using geometric pattern designed on the basis of abstract painting, color contrast between strong original colors, and repeated geometric patterns. The modern image can be explained as modernity in modern fashion and is continued in these days. The origins of modernity analyzed as follows. First, Soma Delaunay developed textile design, considering the use of clothing on the basis of scientific idea. Furthermore, she evolved traditional textile design and making process into a practical and rational way through developing new needlework technique. Second, she tried a new style through a straight silhouette in contrast to Art Nouveau style and the test and mixture of different genres. Third, she expressed the simultaneity of Orphism through the parallel structure of various colors. In particular, she used the contrast of strong and clear original colors to express a rhythm of dynamism and give visual interest through color. Finally, Soma Delaunay attempted to approach the public using clothing, furniture, and curtains with the focus on textiles. It may represent her intention to remove a gap between art and life by understanding the public and their life. As examined above, it can be sad that Soma Delaunay's scientific idea with the flow of industrialization, an open attitude not bound by a rule as an artist, an idea of Avant-garde, the comprehension of various colors and the understanding of the public. These factors lie at the bottom of her fashion design.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제14권5호
• /
• pp.749-757
• /
• 2012

The purpose of this study is to consider the characteristics of Latin American style expressed in modern fashion. Latin American fashion has been overlooked the influences, scope and diversity of dress within this world culture region. So, this study aim to unravel the history and significance of Latin American fashion. As for the research methodology, to classify types of the Latin American fashion style theoretical study and content analysis for Vogue magazine has been undertaken. In this study, the term of Latin American fashion style refers to the dress of common characteristics involving Latin American culture. To inquire into the characteristics of the types, various cases has been searched through books, internet, and designer's collections. The results of this study can be summarized as followings. The major types of Latin American fashion style are Indio-ethnic style, tropical-exotic style, and latin-romantic style. First, Indio-ethnic style has been involving traditional costumes and patterns which are originated in ancient Mexico and Peru. Second, tropical-exotic style has been involving bright color, tropical fruit and African flower pattern, various textures, and relaxed silhouette which are inspired by free and easy culture in Brazil and the Caribbean. Third, latin-romantic style has been involving the mix of Latin American tradition and romantic detail such as see-through material, lace, ruffle, spanish flower motif. In conclusion, Latin American style on contemporary fashion is based on interest to cannibalize folk theme, technique, icons and exotic others.

• 복식
• /
• 제61권6호
• /
• pp.113-130
• /
• 2011

Post-Modern Multiculturalism is spreading in many ways and other cultural interest has led to the Latin American culture, which has steadily appeared as the main fashion concept of the international collection. Frida Kahlo(1907-1954), a representative of Latin American culture and a Mexican female surrealistic painter, who gives us some inspiration for contemporary fashion design. The purpose of this study is to have a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture and to expand the expression of fashion design. In the process, this article examines the costume of Mexico belong to the Indio culture which had been regarded as the Other for a long time and understands Frida Kahlo's fashion style: Tehuanas costume and her masculine style. The Tehuanas costume is a traditional style of the city, Tehuantepec, located in the southeast of Mexico, which is characterized by colorful floral patterns and a long skirt. Three fashion concepts were derived from her fashion style: tradition & modern, love & farewell, and masculine & feminine. The scope of this study investigates the Haute Couture and the Pret-a-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2010 in Europe, USA and South America. From classifying the collected photos into each concept, three styles such as ethnic, romantic and androgynous style were derived. These fashion styles were analyzed through the formative elements of dress, color, silhouette, pattern, material and clothing construction in order to figure out how costumes of other cultures influenced on contemporary fashion. As a design inspiration, Frida Kahlo extends her influence into innerwear, accessories and hairstyles, as well as women's wear. These inspirations emerge steadily from the past and far into the future as an expression of a fashion design concept.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제32권5호
• /
• pp.704-716
• /
• 2008

This study aims to explore the creation of fashion design that embraces the diversity of human culture by examining oriental images that appear in the modern fashion with a focus on new paradigms that significantly affect human life as the latest trends, and by reflecting the trends of the times. The results of this study are as follows: First, this study examined that with regard to paradigm, a theoretical frame to view universe, the dichotomous, determinist, mechanism, linear paradigm collapsed to convert to undetermined, exoteric, pluralistic, indeterministic, organic, and holistic paradigm. The new paradigm is identified to have emerged before and after 1950s, and through the new paradigm, the characteristics of postmodernism such as historicality, popularity, locality, folkways and the characteristics of deconstructionism, internally mutual text, post phenomenon, undeterminability and externally exposure, destruction, poverty, decomposition and analysis, were identified. Second, the Orient is defined as the generic term referring to the entire Asian areas east of Turkey. Through the developmental process of oriental images, it was converted from the Oriental image, which mysteriously and romantically represents oriental elements, into the ethnic image that represents long time oriental traditions and indigenous culture together with the characteristics of the new paradigm. Third, the artistic characteristics of the Oriental costumes presented by Korea, China and Japan are expressed in developmental types, T-type plane structure, layered style, asymmetrical adjustment and easy silhouette, and they show indigenous characteristics of each country, for example, Chinese styles in dragon pattern, red and yellow, Japanese styles in flower design and achromatic color. Fourth, the Oriental Image, combined with the postmodernism and deconstructionism through the new paradigm, has two: one Oriental image highlights traditional elements by creating new Oriental image such as natural image, folk image, hybrid image and deconstruction image; and another is undetermined and vague by combining or decomposing Oriental or Western elements. It is expected that fashion designs that reflect these contexts of the times will contribute to the strengthening of international competitiveness.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제7권4호
• /
• pp.127-138
• /
• 1999

The college students selected by random sampling were classified into several groups by their impulse buying pattern and the psychological characteristics that cause them. Their life styles, fashion leadership, self-confidence and self-image in clothing were the subjects of comparative analysis. The results of this research can be summarized as follows. 1. The college women students could be classified into several groups by their impulse buying orientations. 2. The student life styles were different by their shopping orientations. The high shopping involved shopping type and the leisure pursuit shopping type attached great importance to material life and modern life style. The economic shopping type took the intellectual self-image seriously, and the low shopping involved type thought much of the traditional life style. 3. The high shopping involved type and the leisure pursuit shopping type were more impulse buying oriented. They showed the tendencies to the fashion innovativeness and fashion opinion leadership. But the economic shopping involved shopping type and low shopping involved shopping type showed quite different tendencies. The high shopping involved shopping type and low shopping involved shopping type were contrast in their self-confidence in shopping. The former showed the highest self-confidence and the latter showed the lowest self-confidence. 4. The high shopping involved shopping type were more extroversive, dominant, sensitive and pioneering. These psychological characteristics were supposed to contribute to their impulse buying. 5. The high shopping involved shopping type and the leisure pursuit shopping type perceived themselves as more sophisticated, modern, creative and sociable. They thought they had diverse life styles. These two groups were more impulse buying oriented, and their self-images were different from economic shopping type and low shopping involved shopping type.