• 복식
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• 제63권4호
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• pp.30-43
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• 2013

This study provides suggestions of cultural product design contents by using the cloud-shaped gong in traditional temple culture in order to find a high value-added approach. The research herein is part of cultural design contents projects embedded with the spiritual value and symbolic connotation of temple culture. This would be meaningful to enhance its degree of utilization. This can also be a way to find a strategic alternative to a high value addition of temple stay and dissemination of temple culture. For the research methodology, literature was reviewed over temple stay and Bulgeonsamul. For motive design and development of cultural product design, both Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3 were used as computer design program. The template image of cloud-shaped gong for basic motive design was selected from those available at the domestic temples for accurate depiction of its head and body. Finally, samples were adopted from those temples of Gounsa, Songgwangsa, Guinsa, Hwaeomsa, and Naesosa. For each motive, different colors were applied and ten basic motives were practiced in total. By repeating the process for these motives, three types of textile design were prepared. T-shirt designs used a round neckline as basic form, and it was designed for sleeved and sleeveless styles. Apron designs stressed V-neckline and two types were processed: one for the back seam line and the other for side seam line. Pendants were designed with modern and luxurious image so that so that it could be used in various types of accessories. Designs for the bedding applied pattern design of the motives and this was done in a way that gave the images a sense of stability and splendor.

• 복식
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• 제66권7호
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• pp.69-88
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to delve into the identity of the New-Hanbok style in modern fashion, and to survey its formative characteristics and internal values from the perspective of vernacular design. Arguments can be summed up as follows. The study historically examines the changes in Hanbok and concludes that the social and cultural backgrounds and factors that caused the advent of the New Hanbok are (1) the change and expansion of the basic social, cultural, and popular perception toward the Korean image, (2) the rapid spread of a subculture centering on the younger generation, and (3) the voluntary and systematic activities of nonprofit clubs, communities and private organizations. This is the cycle of the spread of Hanbok, which shows the subcultural selection and development process of upward propagation. Furthermore, the public, in addition to holding fast to an independent attitude regarding their choices, also show that they tolerate diversity. As a perspective of analyzing the New Hanbok style, the study suggests the characteristics of the vernacular design perspective as (1) a spontaneous indigenous nature (2) living everydayness (3) and the subcultural-ness of the era. From such a perspective, the study examines the formative characteristics of the basic costume configuration of the New Hanbok style including jeogori, traditional Korean skirts, Cheollik one-pieces, and Trompe l'oeil one-pieces, and draws out the meanings contained in the New Hanbok style, which are (1) spontaneous indigenous nature and directivity toward tradition, (2) living everydayness and modernity, and (3) open subcultural-ness.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권6호
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• pp.795-806
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• 2004

Unripe indigenous persimmons which contain rich tannins have been used as natural dye materials traditionally and have been using continuously for dyed clothes named Gal-ot in Jeju. Those persimmons were cheap and easy to use as dyes because of inedible and widely cultured in Korea. Persimmon juice dyes not only make fabrics brown-color but also give functional and hygienic properities such as stiffness, air ventilation of clothes, antibacterial activity, protectivity against ultraviolet light. However there are several serious problems which are ristriction of dyeing periods, longtime irradiation, uneven color and low color fastness etc. in persimmon juice dyeing. This study purpose to improve dye effect and method in order to enlarge useability of persimmon juice dyeing. Cotton fabrics were pad-dyed to 100% pick-up using padding machine after dipping in persimmon juice extracted from unripe persimmons indigenous from Jeju. It was possible and available to control pick-up rate. The color of dyed cotton fabrics by padding method was more even and repeatable than which by traditional hand method. Persimmon juice concentrations were 4 types of 10, 25, 50 and 100％. The more concentration increased, the more color deepened. UV Irradiation instead of sunlight was applied to color developing. Irradiation times were shortened till 1∼8 hrs. Same color values could be taken without water wetting which were required in sunlight irradiation. Tensile strengths of cotton fabrics pad-dyed with low concentration of persimmon juice decreased but recovered at high concentrations. Elongations(％) of cotton fabrics pad-dyed with persimmon juice were increased 1％ more than undyed cotton in sunlight irradiation. Drape stiffness increased upto double times as much as.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.85-91
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• 2003

Quick Response based Mass-Customization can be produced and distributed customized goods and services on mass basis in apparel e-business. Because consumers cannot touch and feel the apparel products in e-business, they tend to have the negative buying behavior. The purposes of this study were to analyze factors of texture image, and to investigate the differences of consumer sensibility on texture image of apparel products based on different marketing channels (on-line/off-line). Two types of questionnaires for on-line and off-line were used to assess consumer sensibility on apparel fabric. The 8 swatches were selected based on the previous literatures. 202 returned questionnaires for each type (on-line/off-line) were analyzed by t-test, mean and standard deviation with SPSS 10.0. The result of this study was showed that there were partially significant differences on consumer sensibility on texture image of apparel products between on-line and off-line. In case of corduroy, consumers perceived more high-class image under on-line than off-line. In case of taffeta, consumers perceived more thin and dense image under off-line (traditional marketing channel) than on-line (e-commerce). In case of denim, consumers perceived more thin and natural image under off-line than online. In case of organza, consumers perceived more natural image under on-line than off-line. In case of satin, consumers perceived more natural image under on-line than off-line. In case of chiffon, consumers perceived denser image under on-line than off-line. In case of velvet, consumers perceived thinner image, higher-class image, and more natural image of texture sensibility under on-line than off-line. In case of single jersey, consumers perceived higher-class image, and denser image of texture under on-line than off-line.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.144-160
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• 2020

Today, the development of innovative technologies is accompanied by changes in the industrial structure and the Big Blur phenomenon, where the boundaries in various fields are blurred. The purpose of this study was to view the Big Blur phenomenon as a big paradigm shift in the 21st century and derive environmental changes and characteristics of the Korean fashion market. The research method included an analysis of the fashion brands after 2015. Through this study, we intended to establish a framework for understanding the changes in the fashion market from the perspective of Big Blur and discuss the direction of brand marketing. The research results showed the hyperlinks, connectivity, openness, homeostasis, synchronicity, mobility, interactivity, and brand experience of online and offline spaces beyond the boundaries of virtual space and offline physical spaces such as online physical and spatial viewpoints. It also showed the characteristics. The characteristics from the socio-cultural point of view were characteristic of diversity, mixture, coexistence, composability, and pluralism beyond the traditional socio-cultural and regulatory scopes. Hip hop fashion, street fashion, unisex, genderless, androgynous fashion, and kid fashion are the backbone of the Big Blur and are becoming important factors in fashion. The characteristics of the market and economic viewpoint are prosumers that play roles both as producers and consumers. It shows the extensibility of consumers as producers, the cohesiveness of producers and consumers, the cooperation, and the interconnectivity.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권8호
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• pp.1315-1322
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• 1997

Ramie is one of the traditional fabrics in Korea, and very comfortable fabric for summer clothes because it has a high moisture-absorbing and transporting property. Futhermore ramie is very popular and Koreans prefer its handle for summer clothes. The kansan ramie has better quality as fibers and can be weaved as fine fabrics which are famous as kansan Fine ramie. Even though the good quality of kansan ramie has known widely, very few research work have been carried out on kansan ramie in the field of textile science. In this study, the analysis of the physical and chemical characteristics of Hansan ramie was conducted by using two different kinds of Hansan ramie: Hansan Fine ramie and kansan Coarse ramie. In addition, the same experiment was held on the one kind of chinese ramie to be compared with those of Hansan ramie. The following results were obtained from this experimental study. By the analysis of chemical composition of ramie, the similar chemical composition (a -cellulose: 83∼85%, pectin substances: 2.81∼ 3.01%) were found from all of the ramie fabrics used in this study. It has shown that Hansan coarse ramie has the highest toughness value and wrinkle recovery angle among the samples used in this study. From the result of KES-F system, it was found that Hansan Coarse ramie which is composed with the thicker yarns has the highest value on the bending properties, 2HG and surface properties. The primary hand value was also calculated by KN-203 LDY and value of Koshi was shown as the order of kansan coarse ramie> Chinese ramie> kansan fine ramie, and Hansan fine ramie had shown the highest Numeri and Fukurami value among the 3 samples used in this study.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.23-32
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• 2009

The objective of this study is to investigate the efficacy of leaf powder colorants as substitutes for traditional indigo dyeing. Leaf powder colorants were prepared by hot air($50^{\circ}C$) and room temperanrre($25^{\circ}C$) drying methods from fresh leaves. The presence of indigo in the leaf powder colorants was confirmed by UV/Visible absorption spectra. All the powder colorants showed broad absorption at 602 nm as same as synthetic indigo. Dyeing was done by reduction method with sodium hydrosulfite and sodium hydroxide. Leaf powder colorants produced blue color on silk fabrics, showing similar color to the one dyed traditionally with fresh juice extract. The powder colorants prepared at room temperature drying were more stable for long term storage than that prepared by hot air drying. Thus, the powder colorants prepared by room temperature drying was reduced and dyed in one-step process without sodium hydroxide in the dyebath for further investigate dyeing properties. K/S value of the fabric dyed without sodium hydroxide was much higher than one dyed with sodium hydroxide. Regardless of the addition of sodium hydroxide, rubbing fastness was fairly good showing above 4 rating. Fastness to dry cleaning and light of the fabrics dyed without sodium hydroxide were mote higher than that dyed in alkaline condition.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• 제52권1호
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• pp.1-7
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• 2014

전통적 관점에서의 유기염료 혹은 색소재료는 섬유, 종이, 플라스틱, 가죽 등의 재료를 착색시키는 목적으로 사용되어 왔다. 하지만 최근에 이르러서는 이들 유기염료, 즉 색소재료를 이용하여 전자재료와 기록, 영상재료를 이용하는 하이테크산업 및 고성능산업에 대한 적용으로 중요한 관심 및 주목을 끌고 있다. 이 논문에서는 이런 내용을 바탕으로 하여 색소재료의 이용 및 색소재료화학에 대한 다양한 예와 설명을 제안하고자 한다. 고기능재료로서의 색소재료를 이용하기 위해서는 각각의 필요한 요구조건에 충족하기 위한 색소재료분자의 설계 및 합성이 필요하며, 이를 이용한 흥미로운 적용의 도전이 새로운 주목과 관심을 이끌고 있다. 이러한 관점에서 다음의 내용들은 학문적 그리고 산업적 관점에서 색소재료의 중요한 적용에 대한 필요한 연구내용 및 접근에 대해서 논하고자 한다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.789-808
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• 2010

The orientalism in fashion is believed to develop from the eclectic notion of oriental and occidental fashion. By studying on Gabrielle Chanel's clothing that is usually used by neutral colors and on Yohji Yamamoto's clothing that characterizes clothes in neutral colors, the purpose of this study is to seek ways for remaking Korean traditional clothing into a new modern one to gain a world reputation in terms of clothes. Therefore the study is for exploring the characteristics on the factors of fashion design such as color, line and textile materials with works of Gabrielle Chanel, a famous designer in Western world who has made a black color a popular one for people and works of Yohji Yamamoto, an well-known fashion designer of the East using neutral colors. This study analyzed, from the 2004 S/S to the 2006 F/W, the collection of works published in style.com through the works of Gabrielle Chanel, Yohji Yamamoto, and through the analysis of the visual target. A total of 527 images are used in this paper. Elements of fashion design analysis are lines, colors, and materials. The study reached the conclusion as follows after analyzing the characteristics on clothing with neutral colors of Gabrielle Chanel and Yohji Yamamoto. In case of aesthetic characteristics on the design of Gabrielle Channel, it has expression of feminist, sensual, modern and luxury. It is considered that Gabrielle Channel has a luxury image using a neutral color. Also using simple sleeveless in black and tweed structure, the garments have mixed with neutral colors. Fashion design characteristics on the design of Yohji Yamamoto classified into sensual, modern, ascetic expression. Therefore the design has a simple expression of using a black color. Yohji Yamamoto is a designer who pursues unstructured design by using various neutral colors such as black, gray and white based on the oriental sentiment.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.27-38
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• 1985

In KOREA, the history of weaving is so long even in prinitive, there are the traces of fabric emmision using Spindle already in the Neolithic age. And coming up to the period of Three States, becoming active of cultivation of fibers, it can be known the variety of kinds and the production of fine products by improvement of new method of weaving using weaving machine. In the period of shilla state, there is a record of making the fine fabrics with 28 bracts. But wearing of silks fabrics was limitted for only the nobility and common people were wearing native thick hemp clothes. Also in the period of Korea state, they were wearing the hemp clothes by cultivation of hemp. The good quality products were worn by the King or the nobility and women in KOREA made their best with whole efforts to pay to the authorities with woven products of hemp clothes, so in the 14th year of King Chung- Ryul, King prohibited the presentation of fine hemp clothes by his order. By the end of KOREA state, before the production, common people was mainly wearing the hemp clothes. Coming up to the Kingdom of Chosun the sericulture was promoted by establishment of the sericulture encouraging low. Therefore the working hours of women were highly increased. The products of Song-do, Chin-ju for cotton clothes, those of Han-san-the same now as in old times-for ramie clothes, those of Han-Kyung province and An-dong for hemp fabrics were estimated as the best qualities. And the hemp clothes of Kang-won province is not so fine but is very useful and famous for mourning clothes and summer clothes for the farmer. It is true that our history of weaving was begun with hemp as a continous and precious friend of common people during all the historical periods-even though for a while it went backward because of chinese silks.