• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.29-44
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• 2014

This thesis aims to compare the representative costume patterns of the Chinese Qing dynasty and contemporary $18^{th}$ century French costumes. As a research method, qualitative research was performed to compare and analyze the patterns of the flowers, the birds and pagoda shown in Qing dynasty and France. The results are as follows: The Chinese flower patterns used the embroidery technique for 3-step gradation colors to decorate flowers with less than 10 petals. Also, the forms of the flowers were large and simple in China. The flower patterns of the 18th century France is more similar to those of Qing dynasty than to the traditional French flower patterns. They used the drawing technique for the gradation colors and completed the work by embroidery. In the case of bird patterns, the crane on menswear, and the phoenix on women's wear were applied to signify the symbolic feature of the Chinese symbolism. On the other hand, those in France were used solely for the division of the gender. As a result the clear form of the birds in China contrasted with the unclear forms of birds in France. During the influx of mandarine square to France from China, the application of crane and phoenix according to gender seems to be stressed emphatically without considering their symbolic meaning. In light of the pagoda pattern, Qing dynasty showed interest only in the form of pagoda, denoting the simple two-tier structure without detailed description. Whereas in France, the pagodas were three or four tiers, with gorgeous colors and much more detail than those of Qing dynasty. In conclusion, the main determinants of influences on the patterns of France from China would be forms, colors, constructions and technique of embroidery, along with the disregard for symbolic significance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.9
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• pp.1-15
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• 2009

This study aimed to create a new costume design suitable for publicizing our traditional patterns in the world by using the traditional patterns of Northeast Asia region. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. First, China is characterized by a strictly fixed configuration and a realistic description, Japan a simplistic modality and an abstract-geometrical pattern, and Korea a eclectic type, whole-pattern, and part-pattern. This study aimed to make the pattern by using harmoniously these characters. Second, Korea, China, and japan have many similarities concerning a symbolism and a type of pattern. In the modern fashion, they often use dragon patterns, various flower patterns like peony, plum blossom, or mum, and geometrical patterns. This study focused on expressing patterns which contain the ornamental symbolism of Oriental Look, aside from an existing symbolism, and show a traditional sentiment of Northeast Asia. The method for expressing traditional patterns usually included weaving, dyeing, embroidery, or gold foil. Although these methods have been used in all the three nations, even rubbed metal foil and patchwork have been widely used in Japan.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.627-633
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• 2006

This study examined the kinds, expression, techniques and arrangement of patterns for the traditional women's costume from 1995 to 2002 in North Korea. And the results were compared with South Korean. Conclusions are as follows : In the kinds of patterns the natural plant patterns were much more frequently used in North Korea. These tendency was same to South Korea. And the geometric patterns were more frequently used in South Korea. According to frequency in the expression of patterns, it was the realistic, geometric, stylized shape in North Korea. To the contrary it was the stylized, geometric, realistic shape in South Korea. In terms of decorative techniques, not only the traditional embroidery, gold leaf, multicolored stripes, but also modern collages, painting, beads, applique, flounce, ruffle were used in North Korea. Modern techniques were found comparatively a lot in North Korea, traditional techniques were found comparatively a lot in South Korea. In terms of arrangement of patterns, the modern arrangement was much more frequently used. And localized type of modern arrangement was found comparatively a lot in South and North Korea. Therefore traditional beauty was generally expressed by natural patterns, realistic shape and modern beauty was generally expressed by modern techniques and arrangement of patterns in North Korea.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.509-518
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• 2003

Gasa was a surplice of Buddhist monk. It was usually worn in the religious ceremony. Gasa was such a religious cloth that was ruled strongly by Buddha's Commandments, and a kind of cloth that was also reflected by historical, cultural, and ideological factors of each nation. Korean Gasa had various features comparing to the Original Gasa or to that of South Asia which is the birthplace of Buddhism. One of them was 天 王 embroideries that we could find upon the regular square base in the four comers of Korean Gasa. These figures symbolized the Four Devas which were believed guarding Buddhist sanctum. These Devas appeared from the era of the Three Kingdoms when Buddhism imported. Buddhism as a alien religion had been developed through conflicting and fusing with Korean traditional religious characteristics into type of 'Faith to Three Treasures' (Buddha, Buddhist Commandments, Buddhist monk). They believed that embroidering 天 王 figures upon the regular square bases in the four corners were able to protect Buddhist monk by the help of Four Devas. We might say this as a kind of Faith to Buddhist monk.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.251-264
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to introduce and research the traditional Korean costume collections of Dr. McCune who was born in Pyung-Yang in 1907 and resided until her marriage to George S. McCune in about 1930. Her collections consist of three categories : children's costumes, adults' costumes, access-ories. The characteristics of collections are summorized as follows : 1. Deep wrappings are found at the front part of the top clothing when worn. The front gusset (SUB) has been dramaticaly tilted due to the difference in lengths of the top and bottom parts of the front gusset. 2. Assymetry was one of the principles of decorating Korean costumes. The assymetry were repeated at the GIT and SUB of CHOGORE with patchwork patterns. 3. Primary colors were favored in Korean costume. Hue contrast in color combinations was prefered as well, such as : yellow CHOGORE and purple blue CUFFS, a red SUN pattern matched with green embroidery. 4. Surface patterns were not so popular in Korean costumes, while the most colorful and fabulous patterns were shown through the various embroidery artifacts. Patterns were used as a way of expressing of their desires or longings in Korean costumes. The main themes of the patterns were longevity and happiness. The patterns such as peony, lotus, chrysanthemum, bamboo and bat were implying symbolism at that time. 5. Natural materials were prefered for the garments, Silk and cotton were used as the main materials of the costume collections. Studies of Korean Costume collections owned by international collectors are meaningful to boost the arena of Korean Costumes as well as fill up the vacancy left by lost costume artifacts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.8
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• pp.87-100
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• 2004

This study is to understand the types and characteristics of wool fabrics of the Korea. It classifies the types of wool fabrics whose name can be found in the documents by their weaving methods and it researches their characteristics by type, time, usage, and pattern. In Wool fabric of the ancient age were there compound weaving fabric, such as Gyesoo. which is made with embroidery method, Gyegum, which is made with embroidery in gold threads, as well as general fabric, such as plain-weaved Gal, twill-weaved Sagal, gauze-weaved Mosa, Mora, etc. There were also various weaving methods, such pile-weaved Yung, tapestry-weaved Tabdung, or Guyoo, or Dahm, felt-weaved Jeon, etc. It was found in documents that wool fabric such as Gye, Jeon, Dahm were produced in Korea and China. In case of Korea, wool fabric was enormously developed in Koguryo, Shilla, Balhai, United Shilla. Koryo era. Particularly in Koguryo and Balhai, the stock-farming and hunting were the main parts of their occupation. In Koryo era, the weaving technique of wool fabric had made great development. The wool fabric was used not only in clothing but also in official hats, rugs. wall-tapestries, etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.106
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• pp.133-147
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• 2006

This paper deals with utilization of traditional Indian textile design found in 21st century fashion. It examines the decoration of the traditional Indian textile design which inspires and widely adopted in the modern fashion design, and the immanent meaning of the traditional pattern. This paper also analyzes the trend of its utilization in the modern fashion design. In order to examine variety of Indian textile design and its modernization, the Indian ethnic dresses found in 21st century western designer collections were compared with the Indian traditional textile design adopted by Indian fashion designers. The result of the study shows followings : Firstly, the typical traditional decoration in Indian textile design contains plangi, chintz, ikat, roghan and embroidery (mirror-work), and the traditional Indian patterns are roughly divided into natural pattern, plant pattern, animal pattern and geometric pattern. Secondly, comparison of 203 fashion items of world top 4 collections with 422 fashion items of Indian designer's collections shows that the paisley pattern obtains the majority in western design collections, while the geometric pattern in Indian designer collections. Thirdly, the comparison and analysis of the 21st century western fashion design shows that the traditional Indian textile design is mostly used in the seasonal trend color or is mixed & matched with other patterns. You can also find the feeling of the traditional Indian patterns in some western collections. In Indian designer collections, on the other hand, the traditional Indian patterns are widely used in the manner that they maintain the traditional feeling, while they are reconstructed in modern style.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.472-477
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• 2011

In the tide of globalization, culture products play pivotal role in effectively introducing our tradition and culture to the world. This research is about developing culture products using our traditional lady's art craft work to attain the purpose of modern application through recreation of tradition along with modern technology. First, the types of traditional lady's art craft work include pouches, wrapping clothes and other accessories made by sewing except costumes. The materials used were cotton, silk, ramie, hemp and decorating techniques involved were embroidery, patchwork, quilting, knot. Second, the purpose of this study is developing culture products with traditional images which also satisfy modern sense. Therefore, items that could be used readily in daily life were selected. Such items include bags, mufflers, name card cases, brooches. In addition, the Korean traditional Patchwork images which have both western-style and modern sense were selected out of the many kinds of traditional lady's art craft works. Third, cultural products (bags, mufflers, name card cases, brooches) were created by DTP in silk with sacdong and free-styled division Korean traditional Patchwork images and quilting technique. The significance of this study lies in examining the possibility of developing modern culture products using traditional lady's art craft work. A way to further develop this study would be to shed new light on traditional crafts and local cultural resources and actively carry on the study of cultural product development to provide the foundation for developing cultural products with modern applications.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to investigate the sensibility images of Korean Traditional Chumoni. The detailed methodology of this study is as follows. Selections of stimuli to analyse the sensibility images of Korean Traditional Chumoni were made up of 15 stimuli. The survey has been done for the 15 slide stimuli with semantic differential hi-polar scales which are consist of 23 couples of sensibility words. The subjects were 150 female students majoring in clothing and textile. 150 male students majoring in other department and 150 female students majoring in other department in the twenties between 2001. 3. 30 and 2001. 4. 4. The obtained data were analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis. ANOVA. The major finds were as follows. 1. To explain the hierarchy of the sensibility of Korean Traditional Chumoni, two image groups were classified, one is noble and characteristic image the other is splendid and intensive image. Finally it represented noble and splendid image. 2. As result of the factor analysis. 3 factors which are Attraction, Decorativeness, Gravity were found to be constructing factors for the sensibility images of Korean Traditional Chumoni. 3. By cluster analysis, 4 clusters were determined according to Korean Traditional Chumoni. Cluster 1 is splendid. multi-colored and realistic in patteren. Cluster 2 is consist of 'true chumonis' and one-colored. Cluster 3 is modal in pattern. Cluster 4 is simple without any decorations. As to the difference of image of Korean Traditional Chumoni, there were significant differences amang 3 factors by cluster Cluster 1 was found most attractive and grave. Cluster 2 was found most decorative. 4. As to the difference of image of Korean Traditional Chumoni, there were significant differences amang 3 factors by decoration. Gold foil was found most attractive and grave. Embroidery was found most decorative. 5. As to the difference of image of Korean traditional chumoni, there were differences in Decorativeness and Gravity by sex and there were differences in Attraction by major.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.97-103
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• 2008

This research thesis is designed to put Korean traditional and unique wedding dress with a greater significance and value than any other dress into application right for the global and contemporary trend, as part of a bid to show Korean traditional beauty. To do it, this thesis has attempted to add the traditional beauty to Korean inherent wedding dress and contemporary wedding dress, with the use of various traditional beauty elements, such as the line firm, materials and color based on the research on wedding dress, such as, 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket, and 'Long-sleeve Red Silk Jacket', and 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. To recreate Korean traditional beauty of line this research thesis has firstly put into the application the sleeve of 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket' and the form of a large section of 'Wonsam' of 'Unlined Jacket', and 'Doreyon Line' or 'Trimming Line' of 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' as wedding dress that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. Secondly, this thesis has applied lotus and peony patterns out of traditional ones inlaid with 'Long-Sleeve Silk Jacket' into the contemporary wedding dress to develop a creative and special design. Thirdly, regarding the expressive pattern technique, this thesis has designed the repetitive rhythmical pattern with the use of beading technique and embroidery technique, which makes needle work picture and pattern in fabric. Lastly, it can demonstrate the original and distinct Korean style in application of western wedding dress into traditional and contemporary dress, by devising two collections of dress art pieces.