• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.106-115
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• 2010

This study's purpose is to, first survey the traditional children clothing, clothing which doesn't get studied mostly. Second, to choose the factor that can modernize. Third, to design the present one-piece dress. Fourth, to gather an understanding about traditional children clothing and make a chance for children to wear the clothing that has a traditional factor. Traditional children clothes have a same shape with adults' clothes they use five primary color and use a pattern of a symbolic meaning which means healthy and long life. For ordinary wears there are Chimajogori and Bajijogori and for ceremonial dresses they wore Durumagi, Sagyusam which are Po and Dangui and headdress was added. The shape was considered by the children growth condition so the Gorum got longer. The dragon, cicadas, butterfly, phoenix and lots of flower pattern was used by the difference with the class. 5 one-piece design adapted Jogori, skirt, Dangui, Sagyusam, Magoja and used the traditional fabric by mixing the five primary color and the five secondary color was used to make traditional color. This study expects for a chance of children to wear traditional Hanbok or Hanbok-adapted clothes.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.137-158
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• 2005

Modernization of Korea had begun with the reformation of the Kab-o Reform in 1894, which the government had designed after the protectorate treaty with Japan in 1876. It had affected drastic changes on the formation and framework of a Han-bok by government and the main changes is found in creating new style of Gae-ryang Han-bok. During 1980's, the peoples were interested in traditional cultural heritage, and 'the campaign of wearing Woo-Ri Ot' prevailed in Korea to instill the radical sprit of Korean. A Han-bok, which was made at this time, has called a Saeng-hwal Han-bok. The purposes of this study are to defue the the words that are Han-bok, Gae-ryang Han-bok and Saeng-hwal Han-bok of meaning and characteristic based on the previous studies and historical materials and present a unified and historical opinion about Han-bok to the academic world and industry of Han-bok by the consideration. Han-bok is a traditional costume with a long skirt and long breast-tie based on the later Cho-sun and is emphasized a virtue and manner on it. Gae-ryang Han-bok is an improved Han-bok that is include with a Tong-Chima and Jeogori for making a movement and function better. Saeng-hwal Han-bok is originated by the movement of wearing Woo-ri Ot in 1984, is interpreted the traditional Korean beauty from the modem view and is a practice Han-bok for popularizing intodaily life. After investigating the 33 of previous studies, the characteristics and transitions of Han-bok are followed. First, the reason of fail about the reform of dress is a loss of traditional beauty. Second, the yes or no of the establishment of law about the reform of dress, it influenced on a reforming or wearing speed of costume. Third, after 8.15, a modem girl and girl student can not impact on a system of Korean women anymore because, the number of the group that means a high educated and active woman, was growing. So, the elevation of women's education matured the system of Korean women's costume. forth, western style clothes are popularized after the Korean War and it is set down in the system of Korean women's dress.

• 복식
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• 제19권
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• pp.209-240
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• 1992

The costume of any nation is an attribute of a culture. This study concerns chinese and Mongolian costume's 'collar' form according to the observation of some reports about import folk materials and the pictures of the genuine objects, the author has investigated and rearranged them focusing on 13th Century's. 1. Traditional OverCoat or National costume on the poing of won dynasty in china such as Jacket, Coat, Mantle for making classical matching color, lacing, pearl pieces, and all costume shall be properly decorated and disigned. The example, Chinese Women's Gown and Double Jacket, on top of alignment of plaid, focus shall be placed on chinese classical form and color-matching, such as flowers and bireds, butterflies, made wishing ornaments, which shall be either hand painted or embroidered on collars, fronts, sleeves openings, and lower portion of gown. 2. Mongolian Costume, the stone status of a person, are seen at the territory of the Republic of Mongolia was a powerful country of Asia. So during the Mongolian Empire a lot of Missions from many countries came to kharakorom for establishing official relations between Mongolia and a country represented by mission. In particularly, the costume of mongols on the point of Chinggis khan Empire which the upper clothes in cluded ; a several kinds of the Caftan as compared with in Korea as to material (Silk caftan, Cotton Caftan, Fur Caftan) with closing to the right due to overlapping and Stand-up-Shawl Collars will pancho style & Round or V Neckline. 3. As compared with in Korea it is said that this a sort of Simui was brought in prior to the middle of Koryeo dynasty. Korean Simui system was complied with chinese system through confucian domestic behaviour. This was respected for court dress of confucian scholars, as it was, Chumri can ordinary dress of schloars) and Hakchangui ( a uniform of confucian student). Generally its form or shape of the outer lapels of Korean jacket were used together Squar-Tray-Collar. In late Yi-dynasty the inside collar length was longer than the outside collar length and the width of the collar was gradually narrow. And so the Traditional costume's outer collar of Jacket and OverCoat became small while the width and length of breast-tie became large. The same thing as the form of the collar on these days had been appeared by the design method or adjust one's dress. Therefore the form of collar in the china and Mongolian Traditional OverCoat & National Costume is fix arranged according to Stand up Collar, Without Collar, Clothing to the Right, Central opening, Horizontal Row of Button with Round or V Neckline and so on.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.648-659
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• 2000

Through this study I would like to examine the meaning system of the symbolized codes related with real costume figures of the abstract concept of the style of the mourning ceremonial dress in Chosun Dynasty as a variable cause of communication through non-language method by the structural analysis of coding of the ceremonial dress style and the meaning system of the codes centering on the traditional book of funeral etiquette dealing with hueneral cereony in the period. To achieve this purpose, I have used the symbolic theory of constructive concept by F. de Saussure, cultural notation theory of Roland Barthes & Umberto Eco, and structural style of costumes by Myung-Sook Han. The result of the study is as follows. 1. As Chosun Dynasty was a society in which people considered courtesy so much important and practiced the basic Confucian ideas of the three bonds and five moral disciplines in human relations, the characteristic of funeral rites in Chosun Dynasty consists in expression of the thoughts of moral ethics & relative systems and systems of clan rules, etc which was a langue determining the symbols of mourning ceremony dress because the mourning ceremony dress in the period should have the feature of a langue. The mourning ceremonial dresses in the period had five grades of the consume and the grades were determined to be classified into five levels according to the clan system of the chief mourner with sang, ha bang. And the method of the association of the mourning ceremonial dress codes had the six principles of Chinchin, Jonjon, Myoungboon, Chulip, Changyu, and Jongbok. 2. Regarding the mourning ceremonial costumes in Korean society, the meaning of funeral ceremony was expressed by the signifier and materials of the mourning costumes in the society. During the process of the funeral, the intangible feeling of condolence was the expression of mourning and the tangible mourning ceremonial dress was the signal with the lamentation meaning. Especially, characters and patterns were removed from the mourning ceremonial dresses in spite of their function of symbols and the styles of costumes were emphasized. Especially the meaning of condolences was symbolized by attachment of some small pieces of cloth on the upper garments. Hemp was mainly emphasized to be the material of the costumes and some different meanings showed according to the quality of the material hemp. The mourning ceremonial dresses were distinguished from ordinary dresses, which were emphasized because they gad some symbolic meaning of the mourning. 3. Considering the association of the synthetic relations of the costumes from the viewpoint that the mourning ceremonial dresses would be classified according to a system, the symbolization of them were avaliable by sex according to how to combine them and there were no distinction between social classes in the society.

• 복식
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• 제57권4호
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• pp.1-8
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• 2007

In the decade of the 1920s in an America, with booming of economy, people had more money. And with the development of transportation, people can afford expensive traveling throughout Europe. With this reason they were exposed to a nobility of European style and liked royalty more than before. American hunting man wanted traditional dress to express their status as a psychological code and the reason of the existing very similar hunting garment in nowadays is based on this belief. The purpose of this study is not merely understanding the styles of American Men's hunting and shooting garments in the 1920s but understanding the psychology of the people. People quite clearly do not dress according to function ore need alone and, in fact the consumption of clothes increasingly serves no other purpose than to fulfill or express psychological or social, rather than practical need.

• 조형예술학연구
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• 제2권
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• pp.90-127
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• 2000

The Paper aims to survey and analyze the meaning 'Absence of body' from clothes as non-verbal communication medium. Two types of absence of body from clothes are clothes as object because of removing body, and flattened colthes to deny the body form. In results of analysis, 1)the confrontation of male/female was represented by positive/negative, active/passive, present/absent. 2) male/female means social/private, body/clothing, relevant/irrelevant, subjective/additive. 3) one/numbers, simple/various, limited/free present the various way of waering. 4) tradition/contemporary is expressed by materials 5) enlarged clothes expresses the cynical attitude about body 6) inside/outside , one dress/layered dress suggest new concept to wear against traditional way of wearing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.378-385
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• 2006

콘크리트포장에 초기균열을 일으키는 중요한 인자 중 하나는 콘크리트 내부의 초기온도이다. 따라서 콘크리트포장의 초기균열 발생원인을 연구하기 위해서는 초기온도를 계측하여 분석하는 일이 필요하다. 본 논문에서는 초기균열이 발생하는 슬래브 장소와 초기균열의 발생시간이 초기온도패턴에 어떤 영향을 받는지를 검증하였고 더불어, 줄눈부에서 발생하는 균열의 발생시점과 시공시간과의 관계도 알아보았다. 본 논문을 위해서 "중부내륙고속도로 여주-충주간 제 1공구 시험도로 건설공사구간 STATION 1+400$\sim$1+700" 지점에서 시험시공이 이루어졌으며, 시공 후 72시간 동안 i-Button(온도계측센서)을 이용하여 온도계측을 시행하였으며, 초기균열의 거동은 Demec gauge를 사용하였으며, 초기균열 및 줄눈부 균열은 육안으로 확인하였다. 초기온도패턴과 초기균열의 분석 결과, 콘크리트의 초기온도패턴은 슬래브에 초기균열이 발생하는 위치와 시각에 영향을 주는 것으로 나타났다 초기균열균열은 온도낙차폭이 가장 큰 슬래브에서 발생하였으며, 그 시각은 슬래브의 온도가 급강하하는 새벽이었다. 또한, 콘크리트 슬래브의 거동이 인근 줄눈부에 발생한 초기균열에 따라 영향을 받으며. 줄눈부에 발생한 균열의 발생시기가 서로 다를 경우에 균열의 거동이 달라질 수 있다는 가능성이 제시되었다. 그 외에도, 오전에 시공한 슬래브에서의 균열 발생률이 오후에 시공한것보다 더 큰 것으로 나타났으며, 균열의 발생 간격이 큰 균열이 그렇지 않은 균열보다 더 큰 균열틈을 보였다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제39권4호
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• pp.1-18
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• 2001

Korea huts been dramatically changed during the last century in many aspect of society, with the introduction of western culture in the beginning of 20th century. This study aims at understanding the changes in our traditional culture shown by costume as well as examining the aspects of the changes of traditional clothing according to age, by comparing the differences of our traditional dress Hanbok between ear1y and the late of the 20th century. Analysis of photographs showing Hanbok of both ages was used. 155 photographs of people wearing traditional Hanbok in the beginning of the 20th century were collected from the photo collection books portraying various living conditions of common people at that time. 748 Photographs of Hanbok worm today were obtained by taking pictures of various occasions like wedding ceremonies in 5 big cities during 1997. The process of analysis consists of 3 stages: setting standards, sorting, and grouping by positioning. The results showed that traditional Hanbok room in the early 20th century has maintained its basic silhouette and design during the century, but the methods of color coordination, ornamentation, construction have underdone many changes in detail. Consequently, traditional frame exits, but actually there are many variations of tradition produced by individual tastes and fashion trend. These changes show that continuing influx of the western culture which has made enormous social changes in Korea had an influence even on Hanbok.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권3_4호
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• pp.403-413
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to interpret the elegant dressing visualized in modem fashion on the basis of the concept of elegance in dress and its aesthetic characteristics from the holistic viewpoint. Elegance in dress is based upon the idea of aristocratic taste cultivated by good breeding, considering from the documentary study. It is expressed visually through not only the carefully contrived dress but also a sort of aura of dressed body with skillful ease. The aesthetic values of elegance consist of luxury, nobility, refinement, femininity, harmony. To grasp the trends of elegant styles since 1990s, contents analysis of the articles related to elegance in Vogue has been done. As a result, they have been classified into four groups of elegant styles which are Classic, Elaborate Couture, Soft Minimalism, Kitsch Elegance. Classic Elegance and Elaborate Couture Elegance represent traditional ones with conservative viewpoint. Soft Minimalism Elegance is a modem version of elegance. According to postmodernism as a open system, even kitsch has been refined to keep accompany with elegance fur aristocratic taste of high class. As a result of this study, in fashion from the 16th century to the first half of 16th century, elegance has been one of the significant aesthetic categories, resulting from the absolute domination of taste of high society. However in the end of 20th century it seems to start to fade in fashion trends such as mass fashion, youth culture, casual fashion etc. Rather, it can be thought that elegance has been expressed as one of the aesthetic values in dress, by virtue of its value of high class as well as its conservative stability.

• 복식
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• 제58권3호
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• pp.149-162
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• 2008

The Regular rule of Sang-uiwon served as a manual of Royal Attires. According to the procedures, like as making letters about the affairs, consulting, and permission, Royal ceremonial attire was made and presented to the royal family. The materials for the Royal informal dress were presented in accordance with usual tributes. There was no difference in informal dress between the royal family and noble class. But the name of items was different such as Goa du[man's jacket], Go ui[woman's jacket], etc. The royal family continued to wear old days dress as akjurm and noui, which were not worn by common people any more, as a means of differentiating clothes. Bub-bok, which was designed only for key figures of the royal family such as the king, crown prince, queen, and crown princess, was the best status symbol. Because of its highly limited example of wearing, bub-bok was the authority of the wearer itself; with only difference in color, pattern, and material depending on social status. Yong-po is the most frequently worn by the Royal men. Yong-po worn with jong-lip served as yung-bok or gun-bok, and iksun-gwan functioned as sang-bok. Royal Attire for men was clearly divided into Yong-po as sang-bok, bub-bok as myun-bok and gangsa-po, while jeok-ui for women functioned as both sang-bok and bub-bok. However, the use of jeok-ui was defined by differentiate sang-bok from bub-bok like as the pattern of Hyung-bae, number of embroidered round badges, shoes and ornaments.