• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.87-101
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• 2019

The sleeve is closely connected with activity in terms of costume. As a kind of overcoat, Dap-ho of the Joseon Dynasty is short-sleeved or sleeveless. Dap-ho, with simple sleeves is convenient for layering and taking off and since it is easily adjustable using a gusset, a slit, or coat string, and this can be applied to layered look-related designs. This study aims to suggest a design item, which sustains the existence of traditional costumes and facilitates diverse layered looks and co-ordination, using the formative elements of Dap-ho. For this study, theoretical backgrounds and relics of Dap-ho of the Joseon Dynasty were analyzed, based on the previous studies, ancient literature, "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", and relics preserved in museums. The analysis targeted nine relics that show the birth and death years and the constructive changes in shapes, colors, materials of Dap-ho. Formative elements of Dap-ho were applied to the designing and the manufacturing of clothes for middle-aged women in their fifties and the research conclusions are as follows. First, from a morphological perspective, the silhouette, gusset, slit, and the indirectly attached coat string of Dap-ho are good to be used as various design items for covering the body shapes of middle-aged women, and the short-sleeved or sleeveless type is convenient to be layered. Second, when it comes to the material, it is possible to emphasize a traditional image and practicality at the same time by mixing and matching the Hanbok cloth and cotton. Third, in relation to the colors, the coexistence-based color arrangement method considering the theory of Yin and Yang can be applied to modern clothes and this makes it possible to express a traditional image in a harmonious way.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.205-216
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• 2012

Korean traditional wedding ceremony was conducted with some regular procedure and there were used special Gyubang crafts for wedding ceremony. Nowadays there is common the western style wedding ceremony and then the use of wedding Gyubang crafts have being decreased. Purposes of this study are to investigate characteristics of and to propose some idea of preservation and application them in the life of today. The results are as follows; Wedding Gyubang crafts can be classified Bojagj(wrapping clothes), Jumeony(cloth bags), ornaments, items related to sewing and others. They were apt to be traditionality, symbolism and shamanism, and were superior in aesthetic sense, the effect of decoration and technical skill. So there was needed preservation them. Some way of preservation and applications them were suggested ; alternation in keeping with modern needs, use of ornament, alteration in present-day life, application their image to Korean cultural products, textile design and so on. Several works were developed by ways suggested and exhibited in order to arouse new understanding Wedding Gyubang Crafts to public.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.65-73
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to prepare lesson plans, study aids and multimedia learning materials for the clothing units in TechnologyㆍHome economics of the 7th national curricula. It's also meant to utilize these materials in instruction in order to provide students with more direct and practical learning experience and make them capable of leading a successful life in the 21st century. 1. The teaching plans were mapped out for the clothing units in TechnologyㆍHome economics class for middle school grade 2, which were all covered by eight textbooks: clothing and life(the function of clothes, my attire, wearing a suit, and wearing Korean traditional dress), the preparation of garments(the type of fiber, understanding of stuff, and preparing garments), and cloth care and storage (washing, storage, alteration and recycling). 2. The lesson plans included information on the name of units, period, learning objectives, teaching environment, materials, learning content, introduction, development, remarks, topping off, announcement for next session, and related Web sites. 3. To raise the effect of education, study aids were developed to be appropriate for the units. The lesson plans and study aids for the clothing part of TechnologyㆍHome economics class for middle school grade 2 would serve to help students build the right clothing habits, and are expected to serve as good teaching materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.281-292
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• 1997

Tatan is a symbol of kinship and belonging in Scotland and a badge of identity recognized all over the world. Alongside the powerful historical and national resonance to Tartan for Scots it has been borrowed repeatedly by fashion. The pattern compositionof Tartan check is formed as a typical cross stripes that vertical line and hrizontal line meets rectangulary. And its color is much various and rich than other check pattern. So its magnificient spec-tacle that various all kinds of colors is dyed in cloth is second to name. Today we are as likely to meet tartan in a couturier dress as in a kilt or plaid. Tartan is distinctive in colour style and de-sign. It conveys personality ceremony and drama. All these aspects of its character have contributed to tartan being one of the best-known and best-loved fabrics in the world. In other parts of Europe traditional checked patterns declined and disappeared but in Scotland tartan survived strongly jist as the bagpipes also European flourished Due to geographical and cultural circumstances Scots were able to develop and enhance tartan and its remarkable individuality ensured its sur-vival in spite of adverse political and economic pressures. Tartan has been adopted as the national dress of all Scots. Lowland and High-land providing a powerful form of national cultural and personal identity. Whether tra-ditional or a recent creation whether tra-ditional or a recent creation whether a symbol of nationality or a substitute for nationhood tartan is no mean achievement.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.114-130
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to reveal the cultural meaning behind modern experiences of diversity through the history of clothing in Korea. To this end, this study examines aspects that dictate clothing culture acceptance experienced and practiced by women by analyzing the case of the Naju rural area in Jeollanam-do from the 1950s to 1980s. Modern clothing was accepted later in the 20 century in this village, and the Satgolnai traditional textile tradition was an important factor after 1950s. In addition, the continuity of the rural five-day market is different from practices in the city. Limitations in access to media such as TV, films, and magazines, and the functional meaning of clothing in rural areas contributed to limitations for women to get the opportunity to access modern clothing items that were popular in the city. Unlike in the city, the event that inspired the transition to full-scale modern clothing in this village was the Saemaul Undong Movement of the 1970s. Additionally, Mombbe (labor cloth) worn during the Japanese colonial period was continuously worn as daily clothes for Naju women even after the 1950s. Therefore, colonial modernity continued through clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.19
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• pp.195-207
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• 1992

palestein had been a part of Islamic culture before Israel was established after World War II and their daily lives had been totally affected by the Korean, Consequently, the idea of clothing, types of women clothes and it's characteristics reflected in the Koran have been studied and the results are as follows: First, the idea of clothing reflected in the Koran emphasizes the equality of the sexed and treats women as men's equal partner. Second, in the Koran there is almost no reference on men's clothes, but it only recommends women to wear veil to cover their faces and bodies when they go out. The Koran argues that it is not to restrict women but to protect them. Third, due to it's geographical location, Palestinian clothes had been affected by it's neighboring areas, and the gumbaz-a kind of coat - is one of the examples of Turkish origin. In the beginning the gumbaz had been worn by upper class Palestinian women and subsquently by urban Nazareth women. They used to slip on gumbaz on their heads and shoulders. Fourth, In Palestein they wore jacket over coat or dress. The emboridered jacket from Bethlehem was mostly worn their wedding dress. Fifth, the headdress and face-veil in Palestein are the most unique ones and married women decorated headdress and face-veil with gold or silver coins which they received as wedding presents, and wrapped all their coin decorations in black cloth when husbands are dead. Bedouins decorated not only with coins but also with shells, buttons, stones and beads to articulate their chastity, social status, aestheticism, religion and magic.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.10
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• pp.124-136
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• 2009

This Study is on the Punggongyubodoryake. Punggongyubodoryak was the records and pictures written by Ohgyeongmun(吳景文, Painter) and Gangbonpungeon(岡本豊彦, a Japanese painter, 1773~1745). in 1832. Those records and pictures were about the gifts which Korea's King(宣祖, 1567-1608) sent to Doyotomi Hideyosi(豊臣秀吉, Pungsinsugil) in 1590. Most of the gifts were of the Korean costume, which meant that Korea recognized Doyotomi Hideyosi as the new general of Japan, Tokugawa Shogunate(幕府將軍). The pictures of every Clothing in punggongyubodoryake described forms of every cloth and delineated ornamental patterns and sizes of clothing as closely as actual, they were clothes of the Middle period of Chosun. the author of the study inferred that it would be one of the impotent materials in the history of the Korean traditional costume. Among the clothes, there were several danryeongs(단령, ceremonial coat), okgwan (玉冠 woman headdress with) and paeok(佩玉, pendents with jade stings) and choongdan(中單 ceremonial undercoat) and Sang(裳, ceremonial Skirts for man), gyeontongsuseulran (肩通袖膝襕, chinese coat) was recorded in punggongyubodoryake. they were not a set of clothes for ceremonial costume but a mixture of men's and women's costume, of korean and abroad styles. the author inferred that this phenomenon was actually a good proof that the gifts were sent to Hideyosi only as courtesy, which meant for downgrading the receiver.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.105-114
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• 2001

The result of this study is on textile expressed in the costume of the Kazakh tribe, Kirgiz tribe, Tajik tribe. Basically the material of costume is fur, cotton flannel, felt, silk, cotton outwear, velvet cloth and beads, silver, earing, bracelet is used frequently. The tribes did embroider on the shoes, made of sheepskin or calfskin and collar, belt, button, pocket with the sketch of national trait. Eventually their cultures of costume seem to be very similar because of the resemblances in circumstance of nature, religion, custom of life but definitely they show conservatism in itself and independent culture. In the basic structure of traditional costume by races, there is no big difference. Then, in men, the trousers and the shirts of tunic type become the basic with the style which is convenient to act. And, to wear vest, or jacket, or chaban, over it makes a little difference. In women also, same structure shows with the form to wear vest or outwear, on the basis of one piece. But, in a small hat, head wear, color contrast, and decoration element etc., strict difference is showing. After all, they show very similar clothing life culture basically in natural environment, religion, and life habit etc., But, the discrimination is made in the detailed side. So, it can be said that they show the conservative nature of nationalities, and have preserved the unique identity of their own culture.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.161-167
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• 2006

The purpose of this research are to identify the nature of artistic beauty of Kokuryeo dresses and to apply the artistic beauty, formative uniqueness, and esthetic value of Kokuryeo in the modern Korean dress design for creation of new designs. Significance of this research lies in the fact that beauty of traditional dresses possesses highly valuable importance for application to modern fashion design processes. Kokuryeo dresses basically comprised of Yu, Sang, Go and Po, and contains within abstract beauty along with emphasis on geometric elements like dots, lines, and surfaces. Red, Black, Violet, Verdant and scarlet colors were moderately used against the mainly white canvas, and different colors were often used for the top and the bottom. Silk, Hemp cloth and Wool were used for different social levels or ranks, and from the wide variety of colors and patterns of the dresses, such as Round-patterns, Cloud-patterns and Vine-patterns, worn by the people illustrated on the wall paintings, it appears that various materials were used. Vertical hems, Yu (shirts), Sang (skirts), noblemen's dresses, kings' dresses, etc. from Kokuryeo tomb wall paintings were applied, and various dying methods, natural materials and sewing methods were used to recreate the unique features of Kokuryeo dresses in modern designs in an attempt to recreate the esthetic value of Kokuryeo dresses.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.634-638
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• 2006

The significance of this study is the demonstration of a new method of preservation procedure for national-treasure-class cultural-assets by examining the characteristics of the Jeogori relic, presumed to be that of King SeJo, and validating the preservation process. This Jergori as well as the wooden Munsu-donja Buddha statue from which they were found are designated as national treasure. The Jeogori relic is made of light silk and dimensions mark 77 cm in length, 67 cm in width, and 94 cm in sleeve length. It is a typical Jeogori worn in the Chosun Dynasty. Preservation procedure was in the following order: Removing dust and pollutants by vacuum, washing, removing creases, reinforcing the clothes, settling at paulownia backboard, and packing. Storage and exhibition of remains was executed with as minimal folding as possible, and microbiological damage prevention was performed by dyeing antibacterial treatment with eugenol onto supporting cloth. The relic, conservatively treated in accordance with the above procedure, is currently kept at the storage facility of the citadel Museum in the Woljeong Temple. It is displayed annually to the general public for approximately two weeks.