• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.509-518
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• 2003

Gasa was a surplice of Buddhist monk. It was usually worn in the religious ceremony. Gasa was such a religious cloth that was ruled strongly by Buddha's Commandments, and a kind of cloth that was also reflected by historical, cultural, and ideological factors of each nation. Korean Gasa had various features comparing to the Original Gasa or to that of South Asia which is the birthplace of Buddhism. One of them was 天 王 embroideries that we could find upon the regular square base in the four comers of Korean Gasa. These figures symbolized the Four Devas which were believed guarding Buddhist sanctum. These Devas appeared from the era of the Three Kingdoms when Buddhism imported. Buddhism as a alien religion had been developed through conflicting and fusing with Korean traditional religious characteristics into type of 'Faith to Three Treasures' (Buddha, Buddhist Commandments, Buddhist monk). They believed that embroidering 天 王 figures upon the regular square bases in the four corners were able to protect Buddhist monk by the help of Four Devas. We might say this as a kind of Faith to Buddhist monk.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.2 no.3 s.3
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• pp.96-101
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• 2004

This study suggests the basic resources for men's cosmetic which shows in history. Because not only ancient chief but also modern French noble men made up in the area where succeeded the traditional national cosmetic, when it was seen through historic or world, the men's cosmetic was generated and was more luxurious and presence than women. But since the French revolution, men was limited the collection of fashion, also the luxurious cloth and cosmetic disappeared. It was 1960s that men's cosmetic based rock musicians reappeared. And then, rock musicians made up luxuriously. The early cosmetic of rock musicians began from the protest's meaning for old fashioned value and fixed society. But gradually, it was changed the style that valued appearance's beauty. In the past, movie star's hair style and cloth were the basic fashion, but now the sportsmen are recognized heroes and their cosmetic is prevailing. Today, the basic meaning of men's presence fashion is that men and women's each role and self expression is allowed and appearance's decoration showed from sex roles disappeared. Men is limited body's beautiful expression and collective range but they fluently express each self imagination through work, special hobby, female attire and drag queen. From various men's beautiful expression, we will know that human beings want a society which is recognizing different self expressions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.97-110
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• 2003

This study was done to investigate the wearing experience, the taste and attitudes toward Korean Costume(Traditional and Saenghwal Hanbok). Data were collected by self-administered question from 307 elementary school children and 307 mother during 7, 2002. Conclusions are as follows : 1. Hanbok was worn mainly in the first birthday of children and 6∼7years old. But it was rarely worn in 4th∼6th grade of elementary school. Most of children had worn the Traditional Hanbok, about 30% had worn the Saenghwal Hanbok. 2. Childrens liked Saenghwal Hanbok more than Traditional Hanbok, girls liked Hanbok more than boys did. And 31.4% of boys disliked Hanbok, the main motives for dislike were concerned with the discomfort to move, the feel of cloth and becoming. Boys prefered the style of ´vest/ Jeokori/ Bajii´ in Traditional Hanbok, and ´half-sleeve Jeokori/ Baji´ in Saenghwal Hanbok. Girls prefered the style of ´Dangeui/ Chima´ in Traditional Hanbok, and ´One piece/ Jeokori´ in Saenghwal Hanbok. Childrens prefered analogous color scheme to contrasting color scheme. Boys prefered the blue groups, girls prefered the orange and red groups. 3. Childrens had more positive attitudes towards Saenghwal Hanbok than Traditional Hanbok. Mothers had positive attitudes towards both these types. And the attitudes toward Saenghwal Hanbok and Traditional Hanbok of childrens were more positive than mother´s. Therefore the following suggestions may be proposed for the development of Hanbok for children. 1. Hanbok is need to be designed considering activity, feeling and becomingness for teenagers. 2. Hanbok design must be kept seperated Traditional Hanbok and Saenghwal Hanbok. Traditional Hanbok is need to emphases tradition, Saenghwal Hanbok is need to apply a western style and have a practical use.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.71-79
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• 1995

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 19, No. 1 (199i) p. 71~79 The authors study on the traditional textile production and the formal dress through the field research concerning the folk attitude toward dress style around the Mt. Kumo area. In this area, people produced and wove hemp, cotton, and silk except ramie. Because of poor production of raw materials, they produced textiles only for self-sufficiency. Every household dealt with dyeing on a small scale. In the past, people dyed cloth natually using plants as material. Natural dyeing, however, gradually changed into chemical one since the Japanese rule. The formal dresses, which people wore on particular occasions such as the hundredth day after child's brith, the first birthday, and traditional holidays, were very meager due to poor living standards. People could not see the formal dresses with full decoration. Bride and bridegroom were the village.owned wedding dresses, and if they could not afford to, they simply put cloth on to remember the occasion. People around the Mt. Kumo area, however, provided fully-decorated shroud and ritual robes to the level of other better-off areas. It seemed to be the result of influence of deep-rooted Confucianism in Gyungbuk province. This Phenomenon could be found in the folk dress style in other regions as well as the Mt. Kumo area in Gyungbuk province.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.3 s.102
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• pp.73-80
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• 2006

This study is aimed to produce natural dyeing garments, which contain the sentiments and color sense of Koreans, by using various household supplies, with a view to increase the values added and utilization of natural dyeing. The dyes mainly used for this study are multi-colored ones which are durable after dyeing and can represent various colors. They include Lithodpermum officinale, Caesalpinia sappan, Rubia Cordifolia, Pellodendron Bak, Curcuma Longa L., fallen Ginkgo Biloba, Artemisia Princeps, and Quereus acutissima carr shell. Considering water pollution and other things, aluminum acetate and ferrous chloride were used as mordants. Cheap and practical materials such as cotton cloth and those with traditional patterns and elegance such as silk and ramie fabrics were used to produce baby goods, household supplies, clothes, and accessories. The produced supplies closely contact with our body, so they may have a great effect on human body. The household supplies produced include rug, bedclothes, room bedclothes, curtain, bedding set, cushion, and sunlight blind, in consideration of the functionality or medical actions of the goods which are closely related to the human skin. The infant supplies produced include longcloth for newborn baby, bedding set, gauze handkerchief, and doll. The clothes include night gown, shirt, bath gown, and Korean traditional clothes. The accessories include tablecloth, cup pad, bag, wrapping cloth, mouse and keyboard cushion, and scarf. Nowadays, consumers prefer environment-friendly naturally dyed garments and products. In order to control the naturally dyed garments and products which are traded in the domestic market, it is urgent to introduce such ecological marks as 'Toxproof' and 'Ecoproof.' Currently, many ordinary persons, who are not experts, have interest and participate in natural dyeing, but they simply produce naturally dyed garments, not artistic works or everyday supplies. The present author expects this study will contribute to the production of household goods by such persons. The author also hopes that they will develop and commercialize such designs as suit to modern tastes and senses based on the unique cultural assets of Koreans, so that Korean naturally dyed products may be recognized as reliable commodities equipped with international competitiveness.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.15-30
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• 1990

From now, we've made a study of Korean Clothing about our Royal family's or high birth person's and made little of our plain folk's. Our traditional clothing is plain folk's clothing and that is our fundamental clothing, so plain folk's clothing has an important part in our life. In this point, first we were concerned about the plain folk woman's clothing in the plain folk's clothing and it consists of the way of ethnographic method like listening from the lod about their contant living wear-daily wear. This research covers the time from the end of the Yee-Dynasty to 1950's and the place, each province where the primitive dwellers still live and respondent's age range is about from 60 to 80. In the viwepoint of our climate and construction, women should be over-worn an underwear and they have worn the underwear for the purpose of their heating and the inflating of the skirt. The end of the Yee-Dynasty, high society person wore underwear 7-8 layers thick and also the sow society person wore it 3-4 layers thick. The Plain folk woman clothing's basic system is the skirt and Korean jacket and dari-sok-got, sok-sok-got, pants, dan-sok-got as an underwear, and Korean socks and Korean shoes(straw shoes) are added. This research discusses these clothing by dividing them into each part and enlighten the peculiarity, shape, cloth and how to construct and especially about the difficult-making Korean jacket, we handled the method of rough guess sizing. As the result, we found that each province had a similar peculiarity in the general clothing but they had a different cloth name and a wearing method. Especially, An-dong an Eum-sung, they'd worn their own traditional wear, sal-chang-hojaengiee. We made a good product of rough guess sizing data those have not been known.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.8
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• pp.27-34
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• 2004

Jang Heung Lim's is a nephew's wife of Kim Duk Ryung, who had been served as a general of Chosun dynasty. When her Tomb was removed to another places there were excavated some articles such as six Korean traditional costume, Korean socks, Korean shoes (Mituri) and so on. The unearthed costume was designated as a monentous folk materials, No.112, and placed on Gwangju folklore museum. At that time, the mending work in the lost part of costume was not implemented. Only an act of textile conservation was worked. In the article, we go through the mending principles and mending methods in damaged parts of costume. First, the mending principles on the damaged costume are as follows : (1) minimize the repaired parts, (2) mend the only damaged parts, (3) use the same color and cloth as that of original ones, (4) use the appropriated stitching method (5) act the fixed framework in case of missing a outer cloth. Second, the mending method related to the damaged part are as follows : (1) the repairing method in the bodice and sleeve part of costume, (2) the repairing method in the hem of steeve, (3) the repairing method in the collar of costume, (4) the repairing method in the armpit part of costume, (5) the repairing method in the connecting parts between one and another width of Korean traditional long skirt. With this article, we wish that the repairing method in the cultural costume will be developed scientifically and specified efficiently.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.8
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• pp.114-126
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• 2011

Many varieties in folk costumes have inspired fashion designs for a long time. Each country, with a unique style of its own reflects their own traditions, beliefs, customs and morals into their traditional costumes. The traditional methods of creating different ways of drapery methods by using only a rectangular piece of cloth have been passed down from generation to generation and it is still used today. This way of styling has been developed mainly in the Middle East, Asia and Africa and the modifiable ways of creating drapery wearing methods are as follows. The first modifiable styling method is changing the purpose of wearing costumes according to the needs and the wants of the person who wears it. The second method is exposing the knots on the surface of the garments and by doing this, there was no visible difference on the aesthetic formation and it did not alternate for a long time. This means that simple knot shapes have been used to tie edges of rectangular fabrics. The third method is a wrapping type of modifiable styling method, which has been used most commonly in folk costumes because there are lots of ways to wrap a rectangular cloth around the body. The fourth way is the fixed type of modifiable styling method and this method can only be noticed only in the Moroccan Izar using fibulas and belts to alter the shape of the Izar. The fifth method is the composite type of modifiable styling method. This method starts by cutting out cylindrical shapes of fabrics and then wraps or twists it to fit the body. The most significant character of modifiable styling methods in folk costumes is to use rectangular cloths, which varies only in ratio of length, width and sizes. Therefore, this study suggests that rectangular cloths can create enormous amounts of fashion styling which can be easily adapted and created in everyday fashion life.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.36 no.6
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• pp.123-132
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• 1998

This paper is a part of "The Study of the Traditionla Korean Ethnic Farmhousing in Yanbian, China" The purpose of this study is to investigate the facilities and equipments of the traditional farmhouse in the villages of Lungching China. The data is collected from 124 households in the villages based on the survey conducted using questionnaire and photograph. The major findings are: 1) The people in farmhouse use wood as a fuel for cooking and the method of cooking is traditional style using their iron pots. 2) Heating system of the house is ondol type of heating using. wood which is also traditional type. This means that the floor heating of the house and cooking food can be carried out simultaneously. 3) Even though pump system and running water system are the two kinds of water supply that are available in the villages, majority of people use pump system. Many houses have no drainage facilities but few houses have got bad drainage system. 4) From the planning stage of the farm house facilities and equipments for ventilation is not considered and hence it is not provided in most of the houses. 5) Farmhouses are oriented to the south and the windows and the doors are covered either with viny1 or cloth during winter time effecting the lighting system of the house. 6)Many of the houses use incandescent lights. But the switchs and the electric Outlets are short in number. 7) Sanitation facilities are worst equipped compared to other facilities present in Lungching villages of China. of China.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.573-582
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• 2012

This work is to develop a T-shirt by adopting a unique cloud pattern (a good auspicious sign as design material) from traditional native Korean patterns for application to various cultural products and textile design cloth patterns; subsequently, a T-shirt design was processed based on this. As a research method, computer design programs Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3 were used along with a literature examination as part of motive for design development and pattern realization. Three basic motives were selected as a new formative image in this work, utilizing graphical elements such as abridgement and simplicity of pattern, where flower-shaped cloud pattern, uprising cloud pattern, and 卍-shaped or swastika-shaped pattern of traditional cloud patterns were selected. Each motive diverged into two motives via the shape transformation and the application of different colors. The newly developed basic motive was further processed into a combination of one-time repeat pattern, stripe pattern, and application pattern with mixed cloud motives (that were previously developed), which altogether turned out to be 36 pieces of textile design. In addition, with newly developed motive designs and textile designs, a total of 12 shirt designs for 4 pieces were developed for these three each. The shirt design was developed into a shirt blouse, sleeveless T-shirt, half-sleeve T-shirt, and sports T-shirt among others in order to fit various uses and purposes.