• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.2
• /
• pp.319-332
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze Kapa, the traditional bark cloth of Hawaii, including materials, method of manufacture, and colors and patterns, and to show the characteristics of Kapa to identify traditional culture of Hawaii as well as the unique culture of cloth of Hawaii in tropical area. The method of study is qualitative research using documentary records about Kapa. The cultivated Wauke proved to be the best material for bark cloth in Hawaii. The manufacture of Kapa was made by beating divided into two stages. The dyes for coloring were very different due to the existence of various plants. Indigenous Hawaiians showed the unique textures like grooving and watermarks, and the various designs in their Kapa. The characteristics of Hawaiian Kapa appear the symbol of some colors, the preference of geometrical patterns, the various uses of Kapa, and perfumed Kapa. Through these characteristics of Hawaiian Kapa, the traditional culture of indigenous Hawaiian can be understood very well. This study will help people understand indigenous bark cloth of tropical areas including Hawaii.

• Fashion, Industry and Education
• /
• v.16 no.1
• /
• pp.56-69
• /
• 2018

Tuban area in East Java, Indonesia, has a role as one of international ancient trading ports since 11th century. For that role, Tuban has accepted many foreign cultures that are brought by other nations, such as Tionghoa and Gujarat. The improvement of Tuban that involves international relationship clearly influences the forms of tradition and culture that is shown in Tuban nowadays. It is believed that from those tradition and cultures owned by people of Tuban, producing cloth is one of the oldest tradition maintained by the people. Those clothes, as one of traditional products, have unique identity that differ them to other regions. It is because the uniqueness of people's knowledge about cosmology concept, and skill owned by the people that passes through generations. This research explains the condition of traditional cloth tradition of Tuban society with fundamental ground data and explains elements that intervenes the tradition, and forms resulted from it.

• Archives of design research
• /
• v.13 no.1
• /
• pp.7-18
• /
• 2000

Study of Costume Design Applied The Formativity of Korean Traditional Cloth Wrappers Costume has been coexistion with man ever sine human history began, and in modem society its role in man's living, culture and art has become so great that It is now an object most refreshing and of extensive concern to man. This study, based on the expressive quality and purity of Korean traditional cloth wrappers which have the formativity continuously pursueing new visual inspirations, is to seek new expressional diversities and rediscover our traditional beauty and at the same time to present possibilities of reflecting more unique, new spirit of the times inherent in our culture and of creating certain formative world of design value. In studying, literary reference as atheoretical background, analysis of the formative characteristics of traditional cloth wrappers through corrobcrative data preserved as a cultural asset at museums, and actual making of eight works in total based on the results of analysis have been paralled.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.6 no.3
• /
• pp.266-274
• /
• 2004

This study is on the sensitive image of pattern expressed in the color & formative types of traditional Jokakbo(scraps of cloth). The object of this research is Korean traditional scraps of cloth in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty. This study is to be classified into 10 formative types like square type 1, square type 2, diagonal type, diamond type, many color striped type, concentric circle type, pinwheel type, vertical line type, cintamani pattern type, and free style type to apply the design of Jokakbo to Korean design. And color group is divided into vivid tone and pale tone. And it constitutes 17 patterns from the combination of these two types. As for the factors of constitution of scraps of cloth, it consists of factors like revelation, attraction, temperature sense, abstract, and rigidity. In the emotional image in the patterns, both vivid tone and pale tone showed dynamic and warm emotion together. Also, the factors of revelation and attraction were evaluated as opposite images, and it evaluated the plain and dim emotion as more attractive emotion. They preferred the pale tone to the vivid tone. They preferred the cintamani pattern in the vivid tone, and the diamond pattern in the pale tone most. From the research result above, this study made the abstract image of scraps of cloth standardized and prepared for a basis to execute it essentially. This research will be used as basic data to make traditional Korean image spotlighted in the world fashion markets as well as it will be helpful to the development of pattern design for the scraps of cloth essentially.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.12 no.4
• /
• pp.497-510
• /
• 2004

This research shows problems of modem Mourning Garments used in Gwangju area compared to traditional ones. Researches are as fellowed; First, items of mourning garments have been not used by degrees. Male has worn Jung-Dan and Du-ru-mak-i as Pyo-Eui of male mourning garments. Second, mourning garments have been simplified and modified. These simplification in shape and uniformity in size are only far Mass production and convenient manufacture. Third, modem mourning garments are made of 6-su (thin) Hemp cloth. In fact this material has no hemp and is just made of cotton and chemical textiles. Even though it is not made of hemp, it has been sold with the name of Hemp Cloth. Materials should be clearly listed. Forth, traditional mourning garments are manufactured through needlework while modern ones through mass production. Now the former is expensive rather than the latter. So Mass produced garments would be preferred to traditional made ones.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.20 no.2
• /
• pp.263-271
• /
• 2012

Cultural products reflect a living culture and evolve despite being based on traditional forms only. It is known as traditional cultural expression that portray certain culture groups, materials, spiritual and creativity inspired from their living environment that characterize a society. The old Malay community had a close relationship with their surrounding and environment. Sensitivity towards the nature and surrounding environment moved them into creative people. In designing the local traditional textile, role of the motifs, design and product design play an important element in Malay cultural values. This reflects the symbols and philosophy of the arts and culture and thus becomes the identity of the Malay community, which in general practice their culture and tradition based on Islamic culture and religion. Kelantan and Terengganu are the pioneer states for most producers of Malay traditional textiles. In these states the Pelangi cloths, is one of the unique textiles use and inherited by the Malay communities. Base on history, the Malay rulers and Malay nobility used Pelangi cloth as complementing clothing and ornament in attending various ceremonies and customs in their daily life. In this paper will discuss the specific picture of Pelangi motifs, design and its usage in Malay society in Malay Peninsula through its identification aspect of representations. It shows that this textile represent certain insights of Malay customs and identity.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
• /
• v.13 no.1
• /
• pp.1-4
• /
• 2010

The hand printed cottons of India are historically world-renowned for their rich fast colours, elaborate designs, and matchless quality. Until the discovery of synthetic dyestuffs in the latter part of the nineteenth century, the unsurpassed master dyers of cotton were the craftsmen of India-birthplace of cultivated cotton. The Indian printers and dyers monopolised this arcane art of permeating cotton cloth with richly hued, colour-fast designs, and the fruits of their labour proved hugely influential in international trade and the development of modern textile technologies. This paper focuses on a lesser-known body of hand printed cottons, traditionally produced in rural Rajasthan for everyday use by the local pastoral communities. Drawing on extensive research carried out with the region's Chhipa community of hereditary cloth printers, the complex and multiple applications of mordant, dye and resist are illustrated. Often taking months to complete, the enduring popularity of these labour-intensive hand printed cottons is then discussed, particularly in the light of the hugesocial importance borne by cloth in Rajasthan. Cloth and clothing are widely recognised as indicators of social status, gender, rank, and individual and group affiliations. In addition, cloth and clothing have been established as indicators of social, economic, political and technological change. The paper concludes by drawing attention to the recent influx of machine-printed polyester textiles, often replicating the designs or colours of the traditional locally produced cottons. Thus women of the region, whilst using these modern synthetic textiles as part of newer ways of expressing their identity, also visibly retain the values associated with hand printed cottons and traditional dress codes.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
• /
• v.7 no.12
• /
• pp.1-12
• /
• 2007

In this study, the use of wrapping cloth was studied by examining documents and drawings from the past that reflect the life of people of the time with a focus on "minbo" (a wrapping cloth used by civilians) and "gungbo" (a wrapping cloth used by the ruling class). Unlike the bag culture of industrialized society, wrapping cloth has diversity, dynamic and receptiveness to changes as well as coexistence of 2 and 3-dimension. Environment-friendliness of recyclability of the cloth used for making wrapping cloth is not found in any other traditional transportation device cultures of the world. Such polysemous elements converge into a various functions with the development of technology and raw material and allow a package design from a new perspective. This study analyzes the above factors from a package design perspective to suggest an innovative modern package design that has fusional, diverse features.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.17
• /
• pp.137-148
• /
• 1991

The use of bark cloth, made of the inner bark of certain trees, was widespread along tropical zones from the Africa to the Hawaii encompassing the globe. They include Malaysia, Indonesia, New Guinea, Polynesian Islands and South America. Among them the Hawaiian bark cloth, named Kapa(pronounced as tapa) was rated as the best quality and most admired. It has variety in designs and colors as well as the most sophistcated production methods. The distinct processes of kapa making are composed of two stages. The first is called first beating and it is a preparatory stage to beat the sea-water soaked bast. It was done with a round beater on a stone anvil. The second beating process was carried out with the squared beater and wooden anvil. The strips from the first beating was soaked again in the water and then beaten lightly to break up fibers. The craftmen laid a bundle of strips over the anvil and beat it into pieces of kapa. The second beater of Hawaii was the most characteristic one among bark cloth producing countries. On their surfaces were the engraved patterns, which were creation of theirs. These distinguished designs enabled them to produce the kapa with the thinner and finer texture and an elaboration of impressed designs known as "watermaks". The Hawaiian culture was self-sufficient one : Everything they used was of their own creation until 19th century. Among their inventions of printing designs on kapa are three most important and distinguished processes. They are the overlaying, the cord snapping and the block printing techniques. Their inventiveness as well as self sufficient environment made it possible to develop their fine art of the kapa making. It is said that the mass producing and cheap western technology of loom forced them to gradually abandon their traditional art and as a result this fine and valuable legacy of Hawaiian traditional kapa making technique is all but disappeared. However it is encouraging and heart warming to find that some of the people as well as specialized researchers pined together to form a group to try to reproduce the old kapa and study the traditional art. They consider the kapa as an expression of the ethnic identity with Hawaii's heritage as well as valuable art of human history.

• Archives of design research
• /
• v.19 no.1 s.63
• /
• pp.59-68
• /
• 2006

Scarf has played an important role not only as keeping warm of human body but also as accessory of clothes. These days with taking a growing interest of accessory, scarf had thrown off a subsidiary part and gradually had a leading place which guides the overall mode of fashion. Because scarf design of Korea does not get out of imitation step of foreign countries brands it is necessary to develop the scarf design which can show the cultural identity and originality of Korea in international society. Therefore in this study, I chose lotus flower patterns expressed on Buncheon pottery and Korean traditional patchwork cloth as the subject material of scarves design development, and my intention for this study is to develop scarves designs of Korean images by adding modern scenes. For that, first I researched lotus flower patterns expressed on Buncheon pottery and Korean traditional patchwork cloth. Among those materials, I selected to had been presented modern image. And by using computer design program of adobe illustrator 10.0 I designed the basic patterns of three types and developed the square scarves design and rectangle scarves design with those.