• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.511-518
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• 2009

Freed from its traditional confinement to the human body, postmodernism in fashion exposes the defectiveness of body and abstracts from the body under. Deformation of the body denotes the break away from the idealized and standardized body for mass productions. It tends to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional values that build on the balance and symmetry of the body. Bodily deformation carried out historical and cultural pastiche opposes the sartorial convention and symbolism which results in the discord between signifiant and $signifi{\acute{e}}$ of clothing. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily deformation as pastiche, focusing on the relationship between clothes and the body. In order to inquire the deformation of the body in fashion, my study examines subjects of the fashion collections of the turn of the 21st century, using the method of literature research and content analysis.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.225-245
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• 1994

The purpose of this study is to survey of dress and personal adornments of young Korean people from 1980 to 1992. This study is applied of the thoughts of culture of B. Malinowski and related to social and cultual background. The materials of clothes have had higher quality and the colors varied. And sports wear has popularized even for a daywear as people have concerned of the health a lot. Big look and unisex mode in casual wear have been also popular. Underwears and jeans became fashionable. Paints and skirts have been getting shorter and they reached to the mini length. And reformed-Korean traditional clothes has developed. Ecology has been appeared as a whole in fashion. The dress and personal adornments gave satisfaction to modern people who pursuit of healthy ad convenience of life and want to creat the individuality and intend to develop of traditional culture and want to express themselves as perfecdtion of self.

• 복식
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• 제65권2호
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• pp.48-61
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• 2015

Chi-pao is a kind of traditional clothes; it is regarded as a national costume, playing an irreplaceable role in the Chinese history. As China developed, the strict requirements on dresses did as well. History is a double-sided mirror,; we can know the past and we can find the direction ifor future development. when it comes to reform and openness, China imports foreign culture and exports domestic culture as well. This essay uses the history of Chi-pao as the background, consults the reference to analyse the brand of Chinese domestic Chi-pao characteristics, summarize the fashionable trend. Recently, Chi-pao is worn in many kinds of important occasions such as foreign affairs, public performances and so on. The purpose of this essay is to analyze the current situation of Chi-pao, make Chi-pao more international, and show the Chinese history to the world.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2001년도 International Costume Conference:Exploring Global Costume Culture
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• pp.98-98
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• 2001

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권6호
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• pp.924-942
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• 2018

This study is to understand the symbolism and meaning of Yeomim in Korean traditional clothing. Throughout the study, literature research and analysis have been conducted along with empirical studies. The results of the study are as follows. First, there are three types of Yeomim for Korean clothing. Various methods of Yeomim use different materials for tying clothes such as straps and buttons. Second, when we investigate how Yeomim of Korean clothing has evolved, left and right type of Yeomim had coexisted in ancient times and Dae had been used mainly to tie clothes. The Yeomim method has used various materials since the Goryeo Dynasty. During the Joseon Dynasty, right type Yeomim dominated with majority using Goreum. Third, Hanbok has consistently evolved with a unique bonding style that uses rectangular strap for Yeomim, from the ancient times. The particular Yeomim method of twisting a rectangular strap represents the circularity of space. In addition, Yeomim with a strap is characterized by the beauty of how its form can be highly flexible depending on the human body or location of Yeomim, which corresponds to an unbalanced and asymmetrical natural beauty unique to Korea.

• 복식
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• 제51권3호
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• pp.141-153
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• 2001

The Purpose of this research is to compare the feminine modesties expressed in the clothes of women's college students in 1980s and 1990s, and to find out the social cause of the change of modesty by reference data. Korean women's college students in 1980s considered feminine modesty very important in the selection of clothes but students in 1990's had quite different attitudes. The major cause of this change may be due to the fact that the traditional conservative values in clothes were diminished in 1990's. The main cause of different values in 1980s and 1990s is the rapid social change of korean society in this Period. The concrete factors of changes were the change of authoritarian aesthetic values and the Positive orientation to diversity individuality sensibility and sexuality.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.33-50
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• 2014

Investigations on the symbolic role, spiritual health benefits and efficacy of the clothing items of the Ga wolomo (chief priest) have received little attention. Highlighting the relevance of these clothes, this paper focuses on the chief priest's dress code for his appointment, confinement, ordination, ceremonial and daily life activities. Data were collected through content analysis, participant observation and interviews with people from selected Ga communities, such as La, Teshie and Ga Mashie. The findings revealed that the selection of the chief priest is confirmed with a special clothing item. His traditional clothes and adornment also have meanings, importance and symbolic interpretations; explained in their uses, colour and style. As the spiritual head, the role of the chief priest's costume is very distinguished and symbolic in executing his duties; protecting, strengthening faith, confidence and assurance during spiritual healing, and when solving pertinent problems in the community. The paper concludes by recommending further research and documentation on other aspects of the Ga clothing culture, such as hand items and hair styles from the pre-colonial period to the present.

• 복식
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• 제66권5호
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• pp.133-148
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• 2016

This study examined dahoe(多繪-braided cord) and mangsu(網綬-ornament of husu for ceremonial dress) used in myeon gwan(冕冠), daedae(大帶), and husu(後綬) among royal formal dresses in the Joseon Dynasty(1392-1910) based on historical materials including literature, relics, and paintings. The results of this study are as follows. In myeon-gwan, dahoe was used for cap strings, goeing(紘) and yeong(纓). Cap strings were applied to the king, the Crown Prince, and the eldest son of the Crown Prince regardless of their status, and they showed differences among the periods. Both goeing and yeong were used during the early period of Joseon, and then only yeong was used in the late period. As goeing was removed and only yeong was used in the late period, patterns combining goeing and yeong, in color and wearing method, appeared. Dahoe used in cap strings is dongdahoe(童多繪-a kind of braided cord). In daedae, 'nyuyak(紐約)' was tied up to its fastening part. The material of nyuyak was changed from dongdahoe in the early Joseon Dynasty to guangdahoe(廣多繪-a kind of braided cord) in the late period, and the method of using it was also changed. Husu was imported from Beijing in China during the early period of the Joseon Dynasty, but in 1747, it was regulated to be woven in Joseon, and at that time, King Yeongjo attempted to restore the institution of weaving husu with "320 su(首)," namely, 6,400 strands as specified for the status of a prince of the Ming Dynasty.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.594-604
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• 2000

This study aims to investigate the changes in the Wedding costume for Paebak(Hyunkugorye) in Westernizing Korean society of the twentieth century. For this study, I analyzed the related literature for the first half of the twentieth century due to the lack of relevant photographs, while I used the method of content analysis of 116 photographs for the second half of the twentieth century. It is obvious that bridegroom and bride wore the same clothes for Hyunkugorye and the formal wedding ceremony in the early twentieth century. According to the analysis of photographs, wonsam was rather more widely used than hwalot as the bride's wedding costume in the late twentieth century. But there were many changes starting from the early 1970s. The changes were deviated from the traditional style and became more decorative and somewhat crude: that is, people began to embroider wonsam and the piping was added to the collar of danryung. All these changes resulted from the pursuit of commercial interests with the misunderstanding of and the indifference to traditional beauty, while Korean society had experienced the Japanese rule of Korea, the Korean War and the industrialization during the 1960s and 1970s. Therefore, to establish appropriate wedding culture and costume in Korea, it is important to educate people who get involved in wedding business for traditional wedding culture and clothes, because nowadays . most of bridegrooms and brides borrow ceremonial costume for Hyunkugorye.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제49권5호
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• pp.23-32
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• 2011

This study will covered socio-cultural background and characteristic of the face-concealing culture of Istanbul which has liberal and westernized clothes culture for women even if it's an city in an Islamic country. This study depended on literatures related to religion, culture and costumes of the Ottoman Empire, especially costumic data on miniature of turkey, which was famous from 16th to 19th century. Since the 17th century, the Ottoman Empire has been gradually influenced by European countries but the change of women's clothes was not considerable. In the 18th century, women's clothes were influenced by foreign fashions. A veil to cover the face was gradually disappeared and traditional Turkish headdresses were replaced by European hats. Through face-concealing culture of Istanbul, we can see some socio-cultural features like Islamic religious character, one's social position, economic situation, westernization and renovation, beauty and completion of costume, duality for the reason of regional difference.