• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.911-929
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• 2014

This study is designed to analyze the similarity of fit and appearance between 3D virtual torso length sloper with real torso length sloper according to three 3D virtual clothing simulation programs (Optitex, CLO 3D, i-Designer), three body types (A, N, H) and fit status. We selected three representative body type models of females aged 20~30 and got their direct body measurements. Using these body measurements, we developed three 3D avatar body models and made three torso length fitted sloper with long sleeves. Thirty expert fit judges consisting of technical designers and graduate students assessed the similarity of fit and appearance between 3D virtual clothing and real clothing by observing images classified into front, back and side scene. We conducted ANOVA and post-hoc analyses to compare fit and appearance between real clothing and virtual clothing depending on three program. The results showed that CLO 3D represented fit and silhouette most similarly among the programs, especially girths, width and length. i-Designer tended to be relatively good to represent stress fold amount and silhouette. Optitex was assessed relatively better in expressing ease amounts in torso girths and armscye girths, but relatively worse for width, length, stress fold amount and silhouette.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.112-125
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• 2012

This study researches the preferred ease of torso sloper according to body sizes and drop. For this, the eases of main body parts such as chest circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, biacromion length, and waist back length were analysed; in addition, the drop differences of body and pattern were explored to find out characteristics of silhouette changes. The subjects were 55 women in their early 20s (aged from 20 to 24) and individual torso block made with muslin was corrected 1-3 times by a personal fitting. There were 3 meaningful results. First, the preferred ease were individually various; however, the eases of all torso blocks should be same at the pattern making step. Second, the eases were also significantly different among body size groups and the bigger group preferred less ease at the biacromion length, waist back length, armhole-depth, chest circumference, and waist circumference. Third, the eases of chest circumference and hip circumference were significantly changed among drop groups. To change their body drop, H-shape drop adopted less ease at chest circumference and more ease at hip circumference; however, A-shape drop adopted more ease at chest circumference and less ease at hip circumference.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.299-312
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to create a shirt sloper suitable for an elderly male body shape by producing virtual models using a 3D-virtualization program, making a torso prototype using the Yuka CAD system, and employing 3D simulation to virtualize and calibrate the model. First, the following three types of obese dummies are implemented through the CLO 3D program: Type 1 exhibits body fat in the lower body; Type 2 exhibits an obese abdomen; and Type 3 displays a balanced form of obesity. Second, for the design of the shirt pattern, the waist back length (measured value+1), back armhole depth (C/10+12+3+0.5~1.5), front armhole depth (back armhole depth 0~1), front interscye (2C/10-1+0.5-0.5), armscye depth (C/10+2+3.5+ 0.5), back interscye (2C/10-1+1), front chest C (C/4+2.5+1), back chest C (C/4+2.5-1), front hem C (C/4+2.5+1(+2)), back hem C (C/4+2.5-1(+2)), cap height (AH/3-5), and biceps width (Front AH-1, Back AH-1) are calculated. Third, the virtual attachment of the shirt pattern is resolved by increasing the front and back armhole depths, and the front and rear wrinkles are improved by adding a back armhole dart. The front hem lift and lateral pull caused by the protrusion of the abdomen are amended by increasing the margin of the chest, waist C, and hip C, with the appearance improved by balanced margin distribution in the front, back, and side panels. The improved retail pattern with an increase in the front armholes C was balanced on the torso plate.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.43-56
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• 1994

The Purpose of this study was to utilize of CAD System in pattern making process for women's apparel. The automation by the use of CAD System provides the higher accuracy and efficiency in pattern making process. AccuMark 300 System was used. for .this study. The results from this study were as follows . 1. New size spec chart and grading pitch chart were developed based on the data analysis and fitting tests for female college students. 2. New jacket block was developed based on the torso length sloper 3. Automatic grading of jacket block have been developed by creation and modification of grading rules of block pattern. 4. Pattern Design Systyem(P/D/S) were enabled to be constructed directly form a block pattern by modifications to existing styled pattern. 5. Original master pattern was generated by P/D/S menu option. 6. Production pattem added seam allowance, notchs was generated by P/D/S menu option. 7 Interative maker making process have enabled to save a wide range of time and space. 8. Measurement of garment by P/D/S measuring tools is to utilize in garment costing, quality control.