• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.12 no.3 s.29
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• pp.75-85
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• 1998

A finite difference model for predicting time-dependent, wave-induced nearshore current is studied. The model includes wave refraction, wave-current interaction, bottom friction and wind effect. This model iteratively solved the linear the linear set of conservation of both mass and momentum, which were time averaged (over one wave period) and depth integrated, for mean velocities and free surface displacement. Numerical simulations of nearshore current under oblique wave attack, and for wave and wind induced current on a longshore periodic beach are carried out. Longshore velocities tend to zero in some distances outside the breaker line. And the peak velocity is shifted shoreward at the breaker line. The results represent the general characteristics of the nearshore current induced by wave.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.356-367
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• 2019

This study evaluates the variation characteristics of irregular wave fields for two-dimensional Low-Crested Structure (LCS) by olaFlow model based on the two-phases flow by numerical analysis. The numerical results of olaFlow model are verified by comparing irregular wave profile of target wave spectrum and measured one, and their spectra. In addition, spacial variation of irregular wave spectrum, wave transmission ratio, root-mean square wave height, time-averaged velocity and time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy by two-dimensional LCS are discussed numerically. The time-averaged velocity, one of the most important numerical results is formed counterclockwise circulating cell and clockwise nearshore current on the front of LCS, and strong uni-directional flow directing onshore side around still water level.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.46 no.2
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• pp.205-218
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• 2013

The likelihood of rip current at Haeundae beach according to wave parameters, such as wave height, period, direction, and tidal elevation, was estimated by using numerical simulations with a Boussinesq model, FUNWAVE. To examine the estimation, the rip current occurred on 12th June, 2011 at Haeundae beach was simulated based on observations. For the estimation, the following procedure was carried out. First, extensive numerical simulations of nearshore circulations are performed under various random sea conditions according to the wave parameters. Second, from the numerical results, cross shore components of two-wave-period averaged velocities over the nearshore area were computed, and their seawardly maximum was defined as rip current velocity of the area. Third, using time series of the rip current velocity, we computed the ratio of the simulation time and the time period in which the rip current velocity exceed a threshold velocity for rip-current accidents, and thus the ratio was quantified as the likelihood of rip current at Haeundae beach for the input wave parameters. From the resultant estimations, it was found that the rip current likelihood increases as wave height and period increase, and tidal elevation decreases.

• Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.48-62
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• 1998

Seasonal volume transport on the Texas-Louisiana continental shelf is investigated in terms of objectively fitted transport streamfunction fields based on the current meter data of the Texas­Louisiana Shelf Circulation and Transport Processes Study. Adopted here for the objective mapping is a method employing a two-dimensional truncated Fourier representation of the streamfunction over a domain, with the amplitudes determined by least square fit of the observation. The fitting was done with depth-averaged flow rather than depth-integrated flow to reduce the root-mean-square error. The fitting process filters out $11\%$ of the kinetic energy in the monthly mean transport fields. The shelf-wide pattern of streamfunction fields is similar to that of near-surface velocity fields over the region. The nearshore transport, about 0.1 to 0.3 Sv $(1 Sv= 10^6\;m^3/sec)$, is well correlated with the seasonal signal of along-shelf wind stress. The spring transport is weak compared to other seasons in the inner shelf region. The transport along the shelf break is large and variable. In the southwestern shelf break, transport amounts up to 4.7 Sv, which is associated with the activities of the encroaching of energetic anticyclonic eddies originated in Loop Current of the eastern Gulf of Mexico. The first empirical orthogonal function (EOF) of streamfunction variability contains $67.3\%$ of the variance and shows a simple, shelf-wide, along-shelf pattern of transport. The amplitude evolution of the first EOF is highly correlated (correlation coefficient: 0.88) with the evolution of the along-shelf wind stress. This provides strong evidence that the large portion of seasonal variation of the shelf transport is wind-forced. The second EOF contains $23.7\%$ of the variance and shows eddy activities at the southwestern shelf break. The correlation coefficient between the amplitudes of the second EOF and wind stress is 0.42. We assume that this mode is coupled a periodic inner shelf process with a non-periodic eddy process on the shelf break. The third EOF (accounting for $7.2\% of the variance) shows several cell structures near the shelf break associated with the variability of the Loop Current Eddies. The amplitude time series of the third EOF show little correlation with the along-shelf wind.