• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권4호
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• pp.443-455
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• 2012

In this research, a woman matched to the average Korean standard size specification of 21-24 years of age was scanned using Cyberware. Rapidform 2004 was used to separate the body zone into fit zone, action zone and design zone, depending on the function of the lower body. Each divided body zone expanded radially using 'offset' by 1.60mm at the cross section of the waist, and 6.36mm at the hip level. Resultant ease values were 1cm and 4cm along the waistline and hipline (respectively), as recommended in previous research. 2C-AN program and Yuka CAD was used to develop a pant pattern from the enlarged 3D body surface blocks. A total of five pants were constructed using conventional fabrics for light weight formal pants. The appearance of the experimental pants were evaluated by five clothing-major evaluators using a questionnaire that consisted of 21 questions. In addition, functional aspects of the experimental pants were also evaluated by wearer while performing five postures for the measurement of ease of movement. It was found that, the method of regional offset and suggested 3D to 2D pattern development generate reasonably good pant patterns. Among the pattern block arrangements, the method B was evaluated as the best way to generate formal pants from the tight-fit pattern, which fit smoothly over the lower body for maintaining ease of movement.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권6호
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• pp.904-921
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• 2021

The aim of this study was to develop a body type suitable for adult men aged from their 20s to their 40s and to present a method of drafting related patterns. To this end, the somatic surface pattern data from previous studies were used. The research method involved drafting torso patterns for each type by setting and distributing the ease to the somatic surface pattern. Appearance evaluation was performed with virtual clothing. Then, the torso pattern for each body type was completed and presented as a draft method. SPSS was used for data analysis in this study. The research results are as follows. Types 1, 2, and 3 were set to 7%, 6%, 5%; 7%, 6%, 4%; and 6.5%, 7%, and 6% for chest, waist, and hip circumference measurements, respectively. The ratio of front to back was 50%:50%, 50%:50%, and 50%:50% of the spare for each body part for Type 1; 70%:30%, 50%:50%, and 60%:40% for Type 2, and 60%:40%, 70%:30%, and 60%:40% for Type 3. A tight-fit torso pattern for each body type suitable for adult males in their 20s to 40s was drafted, which was modified and supplemented through the evaluation of the first and second virtual wear. Considering the practicality of this approach, for generalization of the patterns, the items of the pattern were converted into a drafting method and presented as a draft method.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.551-565
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• 2012

The primary goal of this study was to provide a systematic methodology of utilizing 3D technology for tight-fit performance sportswear using information of skin deformation in various posture. Technical tools used in this study are Cyberware whole body scanner, RapidForm2004, 2C-AN 3D pattern development program, and YukaCAD. Analysis of the 3D skin deformation while knee joint was bent from $0^{\circ}$ to $60^{\circ}$ revealed that the length of dermatomes L4 was remained consistent during knee bending. Therefore, L4 was chosen as a major cutting line. To develop a highly ergonomic pattern, replicas of static and dynamic postures were developed and integrated using two methods, one is morphing method (Sqirlz Morph), and the other is AutoCAD. Experimental tight-fit garments called 'Derm-Mov Pattern' was designed using dematomes L4, L2, and inner line under knee and compared with four other patterns. As results, AutoCAD was appropriate as a integrating method of various postures. In wear test, 'Derm-Mov Pattern' was rated high (p < .001), in terms of pressure comfort especially around front crotch area. However, wear sensation was not signipicantly different in other area due to highly extensible property of materials. Pressure distribution was relatively even in these experimental garments.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.791-802
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• 2006

The construction of athlete's tight-fitting garments by reducing the elastic knit pattern is an interesting subject, which directly influences the performance of the wearer. Therefore, relationships between the reduction rates of the men's pants pattern obtained using measurements of Size Korea 2004 and clothing fitting were explored to improve clothing comfort. Two pattern making methods were developed and the reduction rates were applied to those pants depending on the parts of human body. The four male subjects were university students in the ages of 20 to 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using seven Likert scales during 4 consecutive days. While wearing the garments, subjects were kept four various postures including waist flexion and sitting etc by requests of the researchers. Likert type scale was used for the evaluation and 7 point indicates that it gave the best fit as tight-fitting pants. As results, differences in the length and girth between two piece pants pattern(style 1) and one piece pants pattern(style 2) were 0.0$\sim$0.3cm. Between two pattern making methods, one piece pants pattern(the style 2) was superior to two piece pants pattern in terms of subjective sensation and fit. Among eight tight-fitting pants, C, D, G, H pants were superior in terms of fitting and stability of waist and hip part to the others. ill case of tight-fitting pants, the reduction rate of the pattern in the course direction, the reduction rate of T2/3(66%) was better than that of T/2(50%), but the reduction rate of the pattern in the wale direction, that of the part of crotch, which was very sensitive part, should be kept the same as suggested earlier by Ziegert(1988).

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권8호
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• pp.1226-1232
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• 2008

Tight fitting glove pattern is necessary to convey oscillation to the skin from the sensors attached on the hands as found in the haptic device. However, it has been difficult to provide customized glove pattern for haptic device so far. The objective of the paper is to develop a 2D pattern that fit tightly to hands by adopting the recent 3D technology to the clothing science. In this study, the user graphic interface application software(2C-AN) for the semi-automatic garment pattern generation has been utilized to develop the methodology of construct tight-fitting glove pattern for the hand in natural position. A basic pattern was developed directly from the 3D images of hand and the verification of the proposed pattern was also provided.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.91-102
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to develop an excellent bodice prototype that is adapted to the body shape of middle-aged women using 3D measurement data. In the evaluation of appearance, S pattern 4.00, B pattern 2.80, E pattern 2.40, L pattern 1.40 were shown in order, and the best fit of S pattern was evaluated as excellent. As a result of looking at the color distribution chart to find out the amount, E pattern and S pattern were not space in the front bust, armhole, and the back waist line. The B pattern and the L pattern were marked in blue because of insufficiency space in the back neck. As a result of evaluation the amount of air gap in the clothing, the air gap of the bust was 0.12, which is the largest pattern of B. Next, the L pattern appears as a tight circle with smallest air gap in the order of the S pattern 0.096, the E pattern 0.08, and the L pattern 0.003. The S pattern was evaluated to be the most appropriate for the body shape of middle-aged women. But the waist and back were slightly tight. Middle-aged women have larger shoulder-related items and larger waist circumference. Therefore, when you set the perimeter item, you should add 1-2cm of space amount and give extra space to the circumference area.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권7호
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• pp.1008-1017
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• 2005

When we develop 2D pattern from replica of human body with small pieces, it is inevitable to have some replica pieces overlapped or departed. In this study, the optimized method of 2D pattern development from the 3D replica pieces was investigated using dress-form. Among six arrangement methods, anchoring two vertexes of a replica to neighboring vertexes of a next replica induces the optimized 2D pattern by evenly distributing stress across the 3D replica pieces. Anchoring neighboring vertexes resulted in automatic widening k overlapping (W & O) the interspaces among replicas of dress-form, thereby stress was distributed more evenly than any other method. W&O arrangement method was verified to be the best by examining the 3D space distribution images between body surface and twelve experimental garments.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.467-476
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to develop a plausible methodology based on experimental data how to set up darts and split lines on 3D parametric body dressed with tight-fit garment. The results were as following: Through the process of making convex hull, the concave parts were straightened to make a convex hull, especially in the center part of bust, under breast part and scapular part. To figure out the optimum positions of darts and split lines, the inflection points of curve ratio were searched along the horizontal polylines of waist and bust. This procedures produced reliable results with low deviation. Using Rapidform, CATIA and Unigraphics, six patches of bodice patterns were drawn and aligned. Paired t-test results showed the outline and area between 3D surface and 2D were not significantly different, meaning this method could be adaptable when flattening 3D surfaces. The amount of waist dart measured on the pattern showed that the highest portion was allocated on 2nd dart(back), followed by 1st dart(back), 1st dart(front), 2nd dart(front)/side dart, and center back dart. A series of findings suggested that curve ration inflection point could be used as a guide to set up darts and split line on 3D parametric model with low deviation.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.35-45
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• 2007

This study examined how to create 2D basic pattern of individuals by means of 3-D body figure, which is to develop a flat of individual basic pattern directly from the 3-D body scan data of each subject using that of the upper body of a male adult. In terms of methodology, this study adopted 3D body scan data on system and body to make examinations in the following steps: 1. Standard point and line were set on human body, along with 3-D definition points(feature points). 2. PB was created by modifying horizontal and longitudinal section of scan data. 3. Ways to set reserve were established in the findings of PB planar development. Respective developed flat patterns were compared with pattern findings in previous studies by means of sensory evaluation. As a result, it was found that both system and body model are basic pattern and belong to appropriate pattern as semi-tight-fit basic pattern with overall appropriate tolerances. Thus, this study came to a conclusion that it is feasible and valid to develop theories for flat development as considered herein.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권1호
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• pp.97-113
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• 2016

This study develops pant patterns using body shape, measurement and shell mesh data to decide optimal women's pants according to styles with excellent size, fit and shape for different individuals and silhouettes. Standard landmarks, lines, triangles and structures were set on a 3D scanned lower body shell to represent women in their twenties and flattened as a 2D pattern. Patterns were created and analyzed according to culotte, formal, slacks and tight type considering crotch shape, location of the crotch point, and adjusting waist darts. Flattened patterns were rotated to compare existing methods. The crease lines were then set through the hip protrusion point and compared. The main factor of the pant pattern were extracted, total rise, crotch depth, crotch width, angle of center line, shape of the center line curve, the thigh width, the amount of waist dart, and crease line position. With going tight style from the culotte, the fits are closer to the figure with minimized thigh circumference, the dart amount decreases, the crotch depth increases, the crotch extensions were shorter, and the angle of the center back increased. The total rise is U shape for culotte and is closer to V shape as the silhouette tightens. T-test of appearance evaluation of the developed pant pattern were conducted after analyzing measurements and shapes of each styles. The results of the developed patterns were superior to existing patterns in accordance to hip line between body and pants as well as appearance evaluation. We found systematic mechanisms among pattern factors that create various pant silhouettes. Evidence on classification of the silhouettes of traditional types of pants were explained objectively through the process of playing out 3D forms.