• 복식
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• 제45권
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• pp.17-28
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• 1999

This study was to analyze factors of the body form and factors of bodice pattern through a surface developement figure for the tight bodice pattern design. Fifty replicas of the trunk surface were made by applying a surgical tape method of female subjects between 18 and 24 years old. The result was as follows: 1. The gaps between direct measurements and measurements of the surface development figure were regarded as allowances for the tight bodice pattern. 2. There are four factors of body form selected by factor analysis. The 1st factor signifies th degree of fatness in the upper body. The 2nd factor signifies the length of the upper body. The 3rd factor signifies the part of the front shoulder. The 4th factor signifies the part of the neck. 3. There are high correlations between center back line of the surface development figure and back length line side line front length line back neck depth back upper chest depth. There are high correlations between back bust line of the surface development figure and back interscye breadth line back upper chest line back armhole line. There are high correlations between front bust line of the surface development figure and front upper chest line front interscye breadth line front armhole line front neck breadth 4. The regression expressions of measurements of the surface development figure of the upper body were analyzed as(Fig. 3).

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.91-102
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to develop an excellent bodice prototype that is adapted to the body shape of middle-aged women using 3D measurement data. In the evaluation of appearance, S pattern 4.00, B pattern 2.80, E pattern 2.40, L pattern 1.40 were shown in order, and the best fit of S pattern was evaluated as excellent. As a result of looking at the color distribution chart to find out the amount, E pattern and S pattern were not space in the front bust, armhole, and the back waist line. The B pattern and the L pattern were marked in blue because of insufficiency space in the back neck. As a result of evaluation the amount of air gap in the clothing, the air gap of the bust was 0.12, which is the largest pattern of B. Next, the L pattern appears as a tight circle with smallest air gap in the order of the S pattern 0.096, the E pattern 0.08, and the L pattern 0.003. The S pattern was evaluated to be the most appropriate for the body shape of middle-aged women. But the waist and back were slightly tight. Middle-aged women have larger shoulder-related items and larger waist circumference. Therefore, when you set the perimeter item, you should add 1-2cm of space amount and give extra space to the circumference area.

• 복식
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• 제50권
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• pp.5-22
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• 2000

The study on the past costume should be done first for the creation of new style of fashion. That is one of the reasons why we have to annalize characteristic style in each period. Before the latter of nineteenth century one must have made the costume by draping design. Because the complicated clothes can be expressed by draping deign think that the subject draping design is even more important than other subject. But there haven't been the studies that analyzed the pattern of Art Nouveau style by draping design in Korea. Art Nouveau style is a certain one that was relatively more changeable than the ones of other periods. The purpose of this study is the analysis about the patterns of hourglass and S-curve style which represented the Art Nouveau style. The results of the study summarized as follows. 1. Bodice pattern : In the front Hourglass silhouette has the princess line for fitting bodice while S-curve silhouette has the wide midriff due to the blousing. There is the yoke in S-curve one. In the pattern of back bodice we can't see the much differences but Hourglass silhouette is used the princess line like the front one while S-curve is made use of the waist darts for fitting back. 2. Sleeve pattern : Hourglass silhouette is made of two pieces the upper part and lower part besides S-curve is consisted of one pieces. The former has the big upper part in order to the emphasis of the shoulder and the tight lower part. The latter is the tight sleeve that similar to the basic sleeve pattern at present. 3. Skirt pattern: There is partially a gored line in the front skirt in Hourglass silhouette however S-curve silhouette is consisted of the six pieces gored skirt. At this part we can also see the fact that s-curve is more complicated than Hourglass silhouette. 4. Others: Wecan find out the differences between Hourglass and S-curve pattern easily at the parts of the collar flounce wing and so on. Summing up, the patterns of S-curve style are more expanded than those of Hourgalss style for the most part.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.277-285
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• 2012

This research studied how to develop tight upper sportswear from 3D scan data considering fabric stretch property. Subjects were five Korean men of average figure in their 20's. Scanning was done for ten postures via vitus smart/pro(Techmath LTD). Analyzing from 3D scan data, more than 70% of the upper body surface showed surface change rate under 20%. It was shoulder and under arm side part that showed most noticeable body surface change when moving. A parametric model with convex surface was generated and flattened onto the plane, resulting 2D pattern. The error rate occurring in the process of 3D to 2D conversion was 0.2% for outline and 0.13% for area, respectively. Thirteen kinds of stretchable fabrics in the market were collected for this study. Stretch property was in the range of 16.0~58.2% for wale direction; 23.1~78.4% for course. Based on wear trial test, four fabrics were chosen for making the 1st experimental garment and finally one fabric was chosen for the 2nd one, which was developed applying 4 kinds of crosswise reduction rate on 2D pattern: 0, 5, 10, and 15%. Through wear trial test and garment pressure measurement, experimental garment applied with 10% pattern reduction rate was evaluated as most comfortable and considerable.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권7호
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• pp.1008-1017
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• 2005

When we develop 2D pattern from replica of human body with small pieces, it is inevitable to have some replica pieces overlapped or departed. In this study, the optimized method of 2D pattern development from the 3D replica pieces was investigated using dress-form. Among six arrangement methods, anchoring two vertexes of a replica to neighboring vertexes of a next replica induces the optimized 2D pattern by evenly distributing stress across the 3D replica pieces. Anchoring neighboring vertexes resulted in automatic widening k overlapping (W & O) the interspaces among replicas of dress-form, thereby stress was distributed more evenly than any other method. W&O arrangement method was verified to be the best by examining the 3D space distribution images between body surface and twelve experimental garments.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.467-476
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to develop a plausible methodology based on experimental data how to set up darts and split lines on 3D parametric body dressed with tight-fit garment. The results were as following: Through the process of making convex hull, the concave parts were straightened to make a convex hull, especially in the center part of bust, under breast part and scapular part. To figure out the optimum positions of darts and split lines, the inflection points of curve ratio were searched along the horizontal polylines of waist and bust. This procedures produced reliable results with low deviation. Using Rapidform, CATIA and Unigraphics, six patches of bodice patterns were drawn and aligned. Paired t-test results showed the outline and area between 3D surface and 2D were not significantly different, meaning this method could be adaptable when flattening 3D surfaces. The amount of waist dart measured on the pattern showed that the highest portion was allocated on 2nd dart(back), followed by 1st dart(back), 1st dart(front), 2nd dart(front)/side dart, and center back dart. A series of findings suggested that curve ration inflection point could be used as a guide to set up darts and split line on 3D parametric model with low deviation.