• Human Ecology Research
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.347-354
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• 2014

'Heongbu and Nolbu 1' is a series of the on-line game 'Tales Runner.' It is based on a traditional Korean fairy tale. However, the game characters in Heongbu and Nolbu 1 wear casual clothes even though the game is set in the Joseon Dynasty. Therefore, this paper presents proposed game characters clothes based on traditional Korean costumes from the Joseon Dynasty. This work should help inspire gamers and game designers with the beauty of Korean traditional costumes and familiarize them with an aspect of Korean people's identity. A literature review of online games and game characters was carried out, and game characters' clothes were analyzed. The design motifs of historical relics of the Joseon era were evaluated. Three styles, one traditional and two "fusion" styles integrating traditional and modern elements were proposed for each of the 4 characters: Chowon, Ruff, Bada and Abell. The chulrik and jurip were used as design motifs for Chowon. A traditional chulrik, short chulriks and pants are suggested. Second, the dongari and jeonrip were used as design motifs for Ruff. A traditional dongdari, sapok pants, deck pants and a vest are suggested. Third, the jeogori and chima were used as design motifs for Bada. A traditional female hanbok, arm warmers, short-sleeved jeogori and dress are suggested. Fourth, the dang-ui and daeran-chima were used as design motifs for Abell. A traditional dang-ui and daeran-chima, blouse, skirt, jumper and tight Bermuda shorts are suggested. The length, shape and color were converted into new styles, but some traditional elements such as the git and goreum were retained.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.91-100
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• 2017

The primary goal of most clothing-related textbooks currently used in colleges in Korea is to determine how to plan and develop basic patterns. Therefore, they are limited in understanding the patterns and sewing methods of practical, ready-made clothes that are continuously being upgraded. According to previous studies regarding sewing methods in clothing construction textbooks, tight skirt, tailored jacket, and shirt sewing methods have been explained. However, there has been no study on the sewing methods of slacks. Therefore, this study attempted to suggest basic data needed for making slacks through a comparative analysis of their sewing methods for educational purposes. In addition, this paper is meaningful in that it complements clothing construction-related textbooks according to the current trends of diverse clothing design and materials and develops learning materials for the construction of clothes, which are applicable to practice. In this study, the sewing methods and construction procedures of slacks stated in clothing construction textbooks that are currently used in colleges and fashion-related educational institutes were analyzed. Among a total of 47 textbooks on the market, 15 books that cover the cutting and sewing methods of slacks and are suitable to slacks design were used. According to the analysis, most textbooks described the production methods only, without explanation of materials, which can affect clothing construction methods. Because there is a large difference in pocket and slacks procedures by textbook, there is a need for a standardized construction method with changes in clothing materials and design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.8
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• pp.1190-1201
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• 2007

This study is to review the costumes of female Shamans through Gamrotaenghwa(甘露幀畵) in the late Joseon Dynasty of the 18th and 19th centuries. The picture of Mudangnaeryeok(巫堂來歷) showing Shamanic performances which is kept in Kyujanggak, Seoul National University was the only one thing enabling to compare with the Shamanic costumes shown in Gamrotaenghwa. The earlier Gamrotaenghwa doesn't show the Shamanic features but that of the later part of 18th century shows specific costumes so that the scene of Shamanic performance can be guessed. The Shamanic costumes are classified into 5 types. Type A is considered to have followed the figures shown commonly in earlier Gamrotaenghwa of the 16th and 17th centuries, rather than the traditional costumes. Types B through E show the costumes of the Joseon dynasty. With the basic costumes of skirt and Chogori(a kind of jacket, Type B), the variable costumes worn for each type of Shamanic performances are Mongduri(蒙頭里, Type C), Jeonbok(戰服, Type D) and Cheolrik(天翼, Type E). Reviewing the general style of those costumes, the upper part was tight and the lower part was silhouette of big volume, and the length of Chogori was a little long in the early of 18th century but it became shorter with narrower sleeves from the later part of the same century. According to the general literatures about the outer collars were not overlapped and its side parts were open, with half or no sleeves. In case that the target of Shamanic performance is male god, the Shaman wore the male costumes represented by Cheolrik and Jeonbok. Because these Cheolrik and Jeonbok which were worn during the Shamanic performance have the symbolic meaning to correspond with the male god, they didn't function as ordinary costumes.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.83-97
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• 2021

This study developed safety clothing that is essential for adolescent to protect their bodies from accidents, pursue activities and individuality. Therefore, the developed safety clothing was first based on international standards, while changing design to emphasize creativity, activity, and functionality. Two suits of boy's clothes and a girl's suit were developed as safety clothing for sportswear, along with two pairs of girl's clothes and a pair of boy's clothes for entertainment. It was confirmed that the difference in visibility was revealed by testing under different lighting conditions. Second, the survey on adolescents indicated no significant gender difference in sportswear. Round shirt+shorts for both boys and girls were the most preferred for ball game sportswear. However, there was a significant difference by gender in the design of safety clothing for entertainment. Male students preferred jump suit=cape+pants the most, and female students preferred jump suit>cape+pants in the order (p<0.05). In the safety clothes with the highest preference for entertainment, there was no gender difference. All students preferred the jump suit at the most. Checking at each school level, it was found that both middle and high school students preferred jump suit designs, and in safety clothing, middle school students preferred high-neck shirt blouse+tight skirt, and high school students preferred jump suits. Third, 35.5% responded that they would wear it more if current safety clothing is improved. This indicated the necessity of developing various safety clothing for adolescence.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.4
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• pp.39-59
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• 1981

This article briefly researched the Picture of Welcoming the Governor of Pyongan Province painted by Kim Hong-do, penname Danwon(1745-1818?). The Picture was composed of three parts and its historical and pictorial back-ground were reviewed firstly. And later the dress and its ornament appearing on the Picture were studied. In the historical viewpoint of dress and its ornament, the Picture shown all sorts of dress from lower class maids and servants to higher officials-dignatories and governor, and dealt with nearly all dresses. In order to support and to make better understand the dresses of that age, some Korean literary works of the same period depicting the dress and its ornament were also selected. This article dealt with the dress and its ornament. especially that of 18th century of the Yi Dynasty, and comparatively studied for our folk painting with literary works. Also the picture enabled to make this study was an important data of our old dress and its ornament. This painting was considered as one of our cultural treasures. Several conclusions drawn out from this study as followings: 1) In male and female dress of lower class people; male dress was consist of trouser and coat, and coat, and over the coat SOCHANGYI were used. Female dress was basically consist of skirt and these were white color of their favourite. Mainly simple color was used for clothing and its dress style were CHAKSOO-HYONG (narrow sleeve style) which convenient for a work. 2) Yangban's dress was consist of trouser, coat and over the coat, usually DOPO(over-coat) were used and some case JICKRYONGPO (a sort of over-coat) or CHANGYI were also used. These were GWANGSOO-HYONG (wide sleeve style) of inconvenient for a work. 3) In head-gear, there was no difference of the higher and the lower. They usually used HEUC-KRIP (black Korean hat). The OCKJUNGJA, GONJAKMI (peacock tail), HOSOO (tiger beard), and YOUNGJA (chin strip) were used according to officials ranks as head-gear's oraments. 4) Local petty officials used ordinary dress and CHUPRI (warn-dress) were also used by them, and military officials used war-dress of tight sleeve. 5) The belting of over-coat are different in color according to official grade. The higher grade wore red-wide belt, but generally black narrow belt for ordinary officials. 6) All KISAING girl wore SAMHYEOIJANG upper coat. And their head ornament were black KARIMA for grown KISAING. SAYANG hair for DONGKI or maiden KISAING and BINYEO (an ornamental rod of women's hair) were inserted into the hair of rear down part of head. The water carring maid wore BANHYEOIJANG upper coat and no KARIMA were on head and their coat were gloomy color. Above mentioned are several conclusions, and there migh be a false or erroneous explanations of 18th century dress and its ornament, however I considered they were data for blank period of quite unknown.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.225-242
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• 1997

This study is historical research on the relationship between the Changes of the Form of costume and the recognition of the beauty of the body from prehistorical period to Ch'ing Dynasty in Chinese female costume. In figure painting a significant point was to describe the spirit of the figure so Chinese painters were less interested in ideal body pro-portion or body shape than Westerns. But idealized beauty of the female body existed and changed keeping abreast with the form of costume in each period. In the prehistorical period Wemen fasten waist belt so enabled to distinguish upper part of the body from lower one. "Locust-forehead moth-eyebrows(蝗首蛾毛)" recorded in "the Book of odes(詩經)" was the canon of beaty and Wemen tried to make their forehead broad and square from Zhou Dynasty to the Wei Jin periods. From the age of Civil War to han Dynasty Slender waist was loved so waist was tightly fastened and hemline became broader. in the course of that time Plump body in big cloth with broad sleeve emerged but that was less significant than Tang Dynasty. During Wei Jin and the Southern/Northern Dynasty undergo disruption and division they admired Taoist images. Loose fitting style with handkerchief hemline and broad sash belt was prevailed while miserable life was reflected gaunt face and lean body. Suk Dynasty also preferred a slim and long body silhouette. The style was presented extremely high waist line long and narrow sleeve slim and long skirt which expressed dynamic and straight image. The culture of Tang Dynasty was open and diverse and that character enabled blod decolletate revealing body line by tight fitting and special make-up-Social background of uion and stabilization made female body extremely plump full face. full breast and hips with most erotic image. The period of Kaiyuan Tianbao fashioned mannish disguise presented androgynous image. Five Dynasty and Song Dynasty restored standard body type so upper garments concealed neck and bust high waist line lowered which represented refined and simple outfit. But another eroticism emerged as foot-binding in Song Dynasty. For the sake of covering up deformed top of the feet and ankle gaiters and arrow shaped shoes were devised. During Ming Ch'ing Dynasties body shape became more slim weak and young causing to escort instinct that reflects 'Lust' or 'Mundanity'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.17
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• pp.29-43
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• 1991

Yu was a type of dress worn on the upper part of the body which was commonly used in Northeast Asia. It was originally used by the Northern race for the need of courtesy as well as protecting cold. It was believed that Yu in Northeast Asia, which was called Kaftan, was came from Scythai lived in North Eurasian land around the Black sea. Scythians were the first-formed horse-riding race in the world and their civilization influenced those of far Asiatic sector along the steppe route. As their power expanded, their costume culture transmitted to the East(China, Korea, Japan). The upper garment, Yu, was characterized by the left-sided collars, narrow sleeves belted at the waist to the length of the hip line and the tight trouser on the lower part, which we commonly called HoBok(胡服) style. 1. Yu in Northeast Asia was originated from the Eurasians, Scythian Culture. Being exchanged, active style costumes were widely used among Chinese, Koreans and Japanese throughout centuries' including $4{\sim}8$ century. 2. Chinese Yu had a style of wide-sleeves and right-sided collars. The traditional costumes of Han race are consisted of wide-sleeved Yu on the upper and long-skirt on the lower part of the body. Before the adoptation of HoBok during reign of King Jo Mooryung in 307. B.C., HoBok style had already found in the remains since the Sang period. There were various names among Yu during the Han period. Seup, Sean Eui, Kye, Kyu were one of the styles and several names were meant for collar and sleeves. During $4{\sim}8$ centuries, clothes of right-sided collar were found, superior to that of left-sided and narrow sleeves were widely used both the royal and the humble. Various styles of decoration were seen in Yu around neck, back and sleeves comparing other nations. 3. Yu, in Korea, was typical style of Northern-bound HoBok. Both men and women had similarity in Yu style, narrow sleeves, left-sided collar, belted at the waist and to the length of hip line. Influenced by Han race, in the $4th{\sim}8th$ centuries, dual system of collar was found. But we cannot see major change in Yu and finally was connected to the present. 4. The original design of the Japanese costumes was not similar to that of Northern nomadic hunting race, which was suitable for horse-riding activities. Owing to the climates along the island, we could see various conditions ranging from the cold and to the warm. Influenced by the climates, pulling over the neck(Pancho style) were major design in Japan. As Korea was advanced earlier than Japan, Korean landed Japanese territory showing clothes. So primitive costumes had changes in style. During the $4th{\sim}8th$ period. The Korean mode was found in Haniwa (which was built to make sacrifices to the dead King) and costumes in Jeong Chang Won. Among the costumes in Jeong Chang Won, we put 3 or more costumes to the category of Yu characterizing elements of Korea and Tang period. From the $4th{\sim}8th$ century, China, Korea, Japan fell into the same cultural category, Scythai. Styles in Yu among three nations, we saw little differences, basically along times. Originated from the West Asia, Yu was transmitted to the far East changing Chinese costumes, Koreans melted it into the traditional elements and then influenced Japan.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.65-80
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• 1999

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China. The Results of the study are as follows. 1. In the Past, Derung's dress was very simple due to the influence of various factors, such as geography and history. Men wore shorts and covered diagonally a piece of cloth from left shoulders to right armpits and tied up the two ends on chests. Women covered crisscross two pieces of cloth from both shoulders to knee. 2. Achang people's dress and adornment has its own unique characteristic. Generally, men wear Jackets with buttons down the front and black trousers. Unmarried men like to wear white turbans, while most of married men usually wear dark blue ones. Women usually wear tight-sleeve blouses with buttons down the front and skirts. Unmarried women wear the hair in braids coil them on the top of their heads. They wear short blouses and trousers. Married women wear their hair Into buns and like to entwine black or blue cloth into high trubans. They wear short blouses and knee-length straight skirts. Achang knife enjoys high reputation and has a long history and an exquisite workmanship. All the men like to wear it. 3. The dress and adornment of the Lahu nationality has both the characteristic of farming culture and the style of nomadic culture of early times. Men usually wear short shirts with round necks and buttons down the front, loose-legged trousers, turbans or dark blue cloth caps Women's dress and adornment can be categorized into two styles. One is black cloth gown with buttons diagonally on the right front and waist-length slits on both sides. The edges of fronts and cuffs are edged with Silver ornaments and lace. They also wear trousers. The other is short blouse with round neck and short opening on th right front, straight skirt and colourful leggings with embroidered patterns. 4. The Hani people, men and women, old and young, like black colour and are fond of wearing black clothes. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front and trousers, entwining their heads with black or white cloth. The elderly people wear calottes. Women wear cloth blouses, skirts and trousers or shorts. Slight differences exist in the clothing and adornments according to region, branch and age 5. Blang people's dyeing technique with an exquisite method has a long history. Men wear dark blue long sleeve shirts with round necks and buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. Elderly men wear big turbans wdress and adornment varies greatly in different regions. 6. The Lisu people culture of dress and adornment has some unique characteristics. The styles and colours of their dress and adornment differ slightly from place to place. In the Nujiang area, Women wear black velvet Jackets over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and long pleated ramie skirts. Men usually wear wraparound ramie gowns, with center vent, made of fabrics alternated with white and black cross stripes. They also wear cloth waistbands and trohile youngsters keep their hair short. Women's users. In the Lushui area, the dress and adornment is similar to that in the Nujing region, but women wear aprons and trousers instead of skirts. 7. The Nu people dress and adornment is simple but elegant Women are proficient in ramie-weaving. Men usually wear gowns With overlapping necks, knee-length trousers and leggings. They like to wear their hair long and entwine dark blue or white turbans. Women wear black and red vests over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and ankle-length skirts. They also wear their hair long, make it into braids, and entwine dark blue or colourful cloth turbans. 8. Pumi men usually wear ramie shirts With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front, loose trousers and white sheepskin vests. Some also wear overcoats made of "pulu". Women's dress and adornment varies in different areas. In the Lanping and Weixi regions, women wear white short blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front and dark brown embroidered vests. They also wear trousers and blue or black cloth turbans. In the Ninglang and Yongsheng regions, women wear hemmed blouses With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and drape sheepskin capes. They also wear white pleated skirts and use broad colourful cloth as their waistbands.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.147-160
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• 1999

This paper is intended to compare and analyze the fashion trends that were introduced in the recent shows, held abroad and in Korea, so as to investigate how well the designers in Taegu and Kyungbuk (TK) area are keeping up with the international vogue. The research has done, analyzing Pret-a-Porter in Paris and the three events held in the TK area in 1997 -The Taegu Collection, Kyungbuk Fashion Festival and Textile & Apparel Fair and using reference pictures and documentary records. In order to investigate the trends the research is divided by four groups which are the silhouette, the detail, the color and the Fashion image and has done with the help of three postgraduate students. The results are as follows. 1. The Silhouette The slim-line has the greatest importance in the silhouette analysis of the recent collections. Like Elongated and Fit & Flare, tight-fitting and female-line were also appeared quite a lot. Compared with foreign collection, Korean collections put the bigger importance on the slim-line. 2. The Detail The printings, using paintings and plant-logos had the large portion of the accessories in both foreign and Korean collections. Draw string and wrap style were also presented a lot. Especially, at the Korean collections, layerd, corsage, and craft accent were emphasized, too. As for the necklines the similarity was found over the four events considering. Camisole neckline and halter neck were presented the most, and bared top, Vneckline, boat and low-neck which can highlight the feminity were often appeared as well. Considering collars, tailored and peaked collars which are frequently used for the jackets, were usually shown at the collections. Like convertable, shirts, wing and Italian collar, the collars that can be applied for the sports wears were presented a lot. Virtually no variation of design was found in the sleeve analysis. While set-in-sleeve and sleeveless were found commonly, not so many ornaments were added to the sleeves. The ankle and knee length for the pants and skirts were common. Furthermore, including the micro-mini, showing extremely feminine style the mini-style had the 20% portion of the skirt-length. Unbalanced lengths, using bias-cut were presented quite a lot on the runways. Deep slit skirts, wide pants and irregular hem skirts were in vogue. On the runways of Paris, more than 21% of the design was the burmuda pants. 3. The Color Red and Blue were in vogue in the four collections considering. Sometimes, yellowish was combined in Korean collections. Black and pale tone were appeared to be in fashion also with light grayish, moderate and deep tone. 4. The Fashion image As for the fashion image, feminine-decorative trend amounted to the large percentage in korean collections. At the foreign collection feminine-decorative trend and feminine trend were predominant, then mannish trend and simple trend were apeared equally. The research shows that TK area and foreign collections are fairy similar, which means that the designers in TK area have been making their efforts to satisfy the clients who have the international minds. However, compared with foreign collections, TK collections were apprered to be strongly inclined to only a few trends. Consequently the season trends are not as diverse as the foreign trends, which cannot satisfy the fashion taste of the clients in TK area. The local designers should know the tendency and the taste of the clients and make the more efforts to read local clients' mind.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.137-156
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• 1998

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background, and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China, The results of the study are as follows. 1. Dress and personal ornaments of the Va peoples vary with the locality. Their traditional dress and adornment is characterized by those in the Ximeng area. Men usually wear black or dark blue collarless jackets and black and dark blue loose and short bagged trousers with folding waist. Women usually wear close-fitting sleeveless pullover blouses with V-shaped necks and straight skirts with patterns of red and black cross stripes. 2. Jingpo men have changed to wear shirts with button down the front and trousers. They also entwine white turbans with red bobbles on both ends, and carry diagonally long knives, firelocks and red woolen figured satchels on their shoulders. Women usually wear black velvet blouses with silver bowl-shaped ornaments and chains around collars and on the fronts. They also wear red straight skirts with overlapped slit on the right, waistbands and waist hoops made of rattan and bamboo. 3. The Naxi nationality has a long history and excellent traditional culture. In modern times, women like to wear red, blue or purple laced blouses, long double-layered pleated skirts, waistbands and embroidered shoes. They wear their hair in buns with either hats or kerchiefs over them. While working or going out, they put on their "seven-star" capes made of sheepskin and embroidered with two big circles and seven small ones, while is a symbol of their frog totem. 4. The dress and adorment of the Jinuo people is simple, elegant and has its own unique characteristics. Men usually wear white buttonless shirts with round necks and an opening on the front, knee-length bagged trousers and legging. They wear cloth turbans, earrings and also put small bamboo or silver pipes in the holes of their earlobes. Women wear short buttonless blouses with round necks and seven coloured stripes and thin tight-fitting or embroidered triangular underwear. 5. The dress and ardorment of the Benglong (De' ang) nationality has its own strong national colour. Most of the men wear jackets with buttons arranged diagonally on the front, loose, short trousers and black or white turbans. Some young men like to wear eardrops and silver necklaces. Women's dress and adornment differs according to various branches. For example, the women of the Bielie and Liang branches have their hair shaved and wear black turbans. They use large square silver tablets as buttons and wear blue or black blouses with buttons down the front. 6. Oai men usually wear trousers, white or blue cloth turbans and round-necked shirts with buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front. Women usually wear long straight skirt and blouses. But dress and adornment varies in regions. 7. The Bai nationality dress and adornment has unique national style. The dress fabrics are mainly cotton cloth, silk and velvet. Men usually wear red velvet vests over white shirts with buttons down the front or black velvet vests over light blue shirts. They also wear white of blue turbans and carry satchels with beautiful embroidered designs over their shoulders. Women usually wear red velvet vests over white blouses, or black vests over light-coloured blouses.